|
The C70 really is a great looking car. It's a pity it's front wheel drive only, it would be great with the R drive train. I love the complexity of the way the roof works, even if it does mean it's probably horribly expensive to fix when it goes wrong. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dOwrQxSdcc Skip to 20 seconds. Disgruntled Bovine fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Jul 27, 2015 |
#
?
Jul 27, 2015 02:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 05:15 |
|
|
Yeah, I think the first thing I said when the salesman opened the roof was "I bet that costs a lot to fix when it breaks". It's a cruiser, not going to win any races even with the polestar tuning (well, at least minus the Audi/BMW pretension). But it's the first non practical (and turbo and fwd) car I've owned in my life & I only buy a car every 10-12 years. Surprised the wife pretty well too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2015 03:35
|
|
|
Disgruntled Bovine posted:The C70 really is a great looking car. It's a pity it's front wheel drive only, it would be great with the R drive train. I love the complexity of the way the roof works, even if it does mean it's probably horribly expensive to fix when it goes wrong. I'd hate to need the roof up in a hurry.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2015 03:21
|
|
|
Evil SpongeBob posted:2012 C70 Inscription
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2015 16:42
|
|
|
Evil SpongeBob posted:Whelp, this is now in my garage. (Sorry for the dealer photos. I'm too paranoid about posting pics from home.) Nice, I'm very jealous. Part of me wishes I'd just held out, parted my wrecked convertible and saved up for one of those.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2015 07:30
|
|
|
If I buy new front rotors and pads from Volvo it's $176/ea for the rotors and $198 for the pads for a total of $550 in parts, just for the front brakes. If I buy Brembo rotors from FCPEuro (OEM, just not Volvo branded) and Stoptech performance street pads (better than OEM) I pay a total of $245. Gee... I wonder which I should do?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2015 00:52
|
|
|
You should buy Akebono pads because they stop awesome and are almost dust-free. Also get your Brembo rotors from Rockauto and they'll probably be even cheaper.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2015 17:11
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:You should buy Akebono pads because they stop awesome and are almost dust-free. Also get your Brembo rotors from Rockauto and they'll probably be even cheaper. It's true. I've seen this man's wheels.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2015 19:12
|
|
|
Hey now, what happened that weekend stays in that weekend.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2015 19:17
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:You should buy Akebono pads because they stop awesome and are almost dust-free. Also get your Brembo rotors from Rockauto and they'll probably be even cheaper. I tried Rock Auto, they don't have the rotors. I've heard good things about the Stoptech pads. I've also heard good things about Akebono, so we'll see what I think of these, and if I don't like them maybe I'll go that route next time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2015 22:40
|
|
|
Amazon has had "Warehouse" stock of Bosch "Quietcast" rotors the last two times I've replaced the rotors on my Volvo. Paid 25 bucks a piece, and they came in brand new never been opened packaging. Really nice quality. Admittedly, they were packed in a box with a tube of Loctite that I ordered at the same time, that the rotors smashed into little bits, and covered all the cardboard in the box with goo, but that was probably my fault for ordering them in the same order.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2015 02:22
|
|
|
1969 volvo 142s B20 factory A/C RARE Vintage - $4000 http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/5101708670.html
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2015 01:30
|
|
|
Should I do it, Volvo thread?! http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/5093731454.html '05 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/ 150k seller is asking $2950. It's been listed for a month now  cinder fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Aug 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 23:09
|
|
|
That's super cheap, almost too good to be true. I'd definitely go check it out but if you're not familiar with Volvos I'd make sure to have it inspected. If it's been listed for a month at that price I'd worry that there's something seriously wrong with it since Volvos with manual transmissions usually get snapped up quickly.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 01:02
|
|
|
I'm hoping it's just haunted. Secretly hoping another Boston goon has already seen it and will chime in. Here's my other shady Craigslist possibility: http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/5078264571.html 850 GLT Wagon, auto, 87k $1250 - also been up for a while. I WANT TO BELIEVE.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 01:56
|
|
|
1995 Volvo 850 T5R - partially armored - $6000 http://monterey.craigslist.org/cto/5158641031.html 
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 23:40
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:1995 Volvo 850 T5R - partially armored - $6000 I don't know quite what to say on this one....never thought of someone armoring up a Volvo...guess they were taking the tank reputation a bit far? Perhaps some enterprising goon will buy this and start on the path to being the next killdozer? I can't image that the fuel economy is going to be good, if it's over 10 mpg I'd be shocked. That being said, the interior looks to be in very good shape and if the mechanicals are in the same shape it might be worth checking out. Even in pristine shape, I don't know why they are asking $6k though...
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 01:40
|
|
|
It was probably used as a VIP transport. Although that does bring up additional questions like, "why the hell would you use a volvo"
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 01:46
|
|
|
I makes me wonder why that model....a 960 probably would have been more appropriate as a vip car..
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 02:00
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKvazVSFxvY
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 02:08
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:I don't know quite what to say on this one....never thought of someone armoring up a Volvo...guess they were taking the tank reputation a bit far? Perhaps some enterprising goon will buy this and start on the path to being the next killdozer? I can't image that the fuel economy is going to be good, if it's over 10 mpg I'd be shocked. That being said, the interior looks to be in very good shape and if the mechanicals are in the same shape it might be worth checking out. Even in pristine shape, I don't know why they are asking $6k though... Weight depends on what kind of armor, I'm guessing a kevlar composite. I dunno how much typical weight it adds. I wonder if they used those wheels so they could run a heavier duty tire.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
Discussion on TB claims about 40lbs per door plus the seats and headrests should be armored as well (according to armor package). Also volvos are invisible so I could see why they would be used for VIP transport.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2015 03:17
|
|
|
Any of you guys with the modern Volvos have any experience with Koni FSD shocks/struts? I know Koni Sports are good poo poo, but I have nothing to go on with these FSDs beyond the nice people at IDP are telling me that these things work good with progressive springs (I'll go to the Eibachs). Mechanically I don't understand how progressive spring rates would not interfere with that fancy valving. I figure in that case- try and locate some people that have used them or at least know people firsthand that have. My basic problem is I needed some tires on the quick and all I could get were loving 225/40 18s so they're stupid low profile and it has made my ride a little harsh, I figure these fancy "ride smooth, but still handle good" shocks with the high tech guts might resolve some of the firmness losing my sidewall's height caused without turning my car into a marshmellow. Oh Also I'm lowering the car a little because it looks stupid. Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 08:42
|
|
|
I got them for my convertible and I liked them so much I got them for my wagon too. Eibach lowering springs on the vert and H&Rs on the wagon. They ride pretty nice and definitely do what they say. They practically eliminate brake dive and if you go into a corner nice and smooth the car barely leans at all. But at the same time I've hit some really gnarly potholes and road heaves and while the car makes a pretty loud bang, I've yet to bend a rim. Even my Pegasus rims. I like the handling enough as-is that I haven't bought sway bars for either car yet. I push the convertible really hard and it is very well balanced and predictable on twisty roads. My only criticism is they feel a little bouncy on freeway undulations, like there's too little rebound control for larger humps and dips. It's very noticeable in my headlights on distant road signs. But at the same time I've driven next to my cars with someone else driving and they look really solidly planted to the road. I don't want to go in and wholeheartedly recommend them simply because what you're looking for might be different than what I like, but at the same time I've only read a few negative reviews, most guys say what I'm saying. I did like them enough to buy them twice. I would see if there's any reviews you can find specific to the p1 platform, S40 or C30, and if they are positive, buy with confidence. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Aug 12, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 22:45
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:I got them for my convertible and I liked them so much I got them for my wagon too. Eibach lowering springs on the vert and H&Rs on the wagon. They ride pretty nice and definitely do what they say. They practically eliminate brake dive and if you go into a corner nice and smooth the car barely leans at all. But at the same time I've hit some really gnarly potholes and road heaves and while the car makes a pretty loud bang, I've yet to bend a rim. Even my Pegasus rims. I like the handling enough as-is that I haven't bought sway bars for either car yet. I push the convertible really hard and it is very well balanced and predictable on twisty roads. I've found a few where people compare them to the Sports. They are "comfy, but have more body roll" But no reference to stock body roll. So ... if it's an improvement in both handling/roll characteristics AND comfort over stock - I'm loving sold. BAM, sign my rear end up. Also they say they make the care about a half in ch taller than other shocks on the same springs. I know I have about 3 inches of arch gap on the back and would love to get that closer to an inch and a quarter, maybe an inch and a half (I'm not sure how much travel the wheels have on shock compression. gently caress it, I'll buy a set.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 23:26
|
|
|
PadreScout posted:Any of you guys with the modern Volvos have any experience with Koni FSD shocks/struts? I know Koni Sports are good poo poo, but I have nothing to go on with these FSDs beyond the nice people at IDP are telling me that these things work good with progressive springs (I'll go to the Eibachs). Mechanically I don't understand how progressive spring rates would not interfere with that fancy valving. I figure in that case- try and locate some people that have used them or at least know people firsthand that have. 
goobernoodles fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Aug 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2015 23:28
|
|
|
Has anyone gotten a Polestar upgrade or similar performance "mod" from competitors? A company here called BSR offers +50HP and + 116NM for the D3 engine. Can't say that it isn't tempting.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 08:41
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Has anyone gotten a Polestar upgrade or similar performance "mod" from competitors? My XC90 came with the polestar upgrade as standard. I don't have a benchmark to compare it against, but it's nice having more bhp. I'd go for the polestar over any others, as at least polestar is officially Volvo.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 10:40
|
|
|
deleted
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 12:11
|
|
|
I was considering taking a look at this 96 850 T5. http://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/5124411512.html It has a no start issue where the owner states that he hears the fuel system prime when turning the key, and the starter runs, but it will not start. He has replaced the starter, cam position sensor and distributor per the ad and my conversation with him. He did send me additional pics where I could see a sticker on the timing belt cover stating it was done within the last 20k or so. I offered him $500 sight unseen and he agreed. Should I pass at $500? I would be okay with time spent troubleshooting and putting $1500+tires into it. I have read the entire thread and know basically what to look for on these cars. If it has good compression and isn't leaking it should be worth it, no? This would be a winter car for me, and I typically do my own work for most items that don't require a lift. cinder fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Aug 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 16:58
|
|
|
I'd go look at it, but it sounds like the owner is just shotgunning parts at it and doesn't really know what's wrong with it. See if you can get more information from him about how the problem developed. If it suddenly started running poorly or stopped running altogether it could be an electrical problem, but considering the mileage it might also be a burnt valve or something more serious like a head gasket. Even though it was replaced recently it could also be something related to the timing belt. If you have the tools, it might be worth doing fuel pressure and compression tests before committing to buy it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 18:18
|
|
|
Definitely compassion test it if possible, and be prepared to cut your losses if the engine is toast (or plan on replacing it - it's not worth pulling the head with how common they are in the junkyard) Anyhow, I've had two with blown headgaskets and they still cranked and ran, one of them had basically zero compression in one cylinder. I suspect a problem on the engine management end. I'd suggest cam position sensor if it wasn't already replaced, that will cause no spark.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2015 19:10
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:compassion test I have this image in my mind of asking it for help.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 02:55
|
|
|
Timmy Cruise posted:I have this image in my mind of asking it for help. Holden: The tortoise lays on its back, its belly baking in the hot sun, beating its legs trying to turn itself over, but it can't. Not without your help. But you're not helping. Cylinder #4: [angry at the suggestion] What do you mean, I'm not helping? Holden: I mean: you're not helping! Why is that, Cylinder #4?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 03:17
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Holden: The tortoise lays on its back, its belly baking in the hot sun, beating its legs trying to turn itself over, but it can't. Not without your help. But you're not helping. Haha. Never stop.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 03:33
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Holden: The tortoise lays on its back, its belly baking in the hot sun, beating its legs trying to turn itself over, but it can't. Not without your help. But you're not helping.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 22:04
|
|
|
I found my clunk. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2015 05:08
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:1969 volvo 142s B20 factory A/C RARE Vintage - $4000 I need this in my life, badly. People always underrate the 140 series, it has much better lines than the later bricks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2015 04:45
|
|
|
Regarding the S60R/V70R: is there any reason to avoid the first year '04? Were there any major changes in reliability in the later year models? edit: doing some googlin'. so it seems like 04/05 is prone to angle/bevel gear failure and has a weaker version of the 4C suspension AF fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Aug 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 19:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 05:15 |
|
|
I wouldn't say weaker, but they did improve the spline collar between the tranny and angle gear in 06. But you can put that collar in the 04 and it's fixed forever. All of them are prone to bevel gear leakage and failure. As a side note the 04 is easier to fool the 4C suspension when you switch to coilovers. You just need resistors. On the 05-up you need to harvest the induction coil from the strut in order to put in non-4C struts. I'd still buy an 04 with confidence, the problems are not chronic. Speaking of which, I just made a call on a V70R that might be my perfect unicorn. I hope the dude calls me back soon.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2015 23:00
|
|