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It probably isn't noticeable in final images because of Canon's Fly Control Focus... Although I didn't think they carried that feature over to the digital EOS models.
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Jul 28, 2015 01:44
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SMERSH Mouth posted:It probably isn't noticeable in final images because of Canon's Fly Control Focus... Photographers really have to stop rubbing their dicks on the sensors.
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Jul 28, 2015 01:55
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Got a 6D with the 24-105 /4 after much time deliberating, massive upgrade from my T2i for both family/ dick pics, and my stacked macro stuff. Enjoying the hell out of it so far  I currently own a Yongnou 560 III that I used with my T2i for manual shooting and macro stuff, what does the Dorkroom recommend as far as a TTL flash for a 6D? Would this Yongnou suffice? I figure photons is photons, but maybe there's something crappy about the Yongnou that I'm not aware of. I'd like to start working on portrait photography with some more vigor, and can probably figure out if the 560III will slave to the 568EX easily enough, but was wondering if anyone had a better suggestion for overall flash (on camera, remote, hovering around the shooting area on a toy helicopter, etc). Tricerapowerbottom fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jul 28, 2015 |
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Jul 28, 2015 21:32
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Tricerapowerbottom posted:Got a 6D with the 24-105 /4 after much time deliberating, massive upgrade from my T2i for both family/ dick pics, and my stacked macro stuff. Enjoying the hell out of it so far I have the 568EX II and the YN-622C wireless triggers. It's been painless using them -- the 5D3 and 6D's in-camera flash menu system works flawlessly with the triggers and flash. Wireless HSS is freaking awesome. I used the hell out of it most recently shooting promotional stuff at a Spartan Race. It did really well shooting for 8+ straight hours in the heat. It overheated once around 2pm at the hottest part of the day when I was shooting full power high-speed sync blasts over and over with a fresh set of batteries, but calmed down pretty quickly. I've used it as on-camera fill at weddings, and the TTL worked well both bare, bounced, and with a modifier.
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Jul 28, 2015 21:57
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geeves posted:Photographers really have to stop rubbing their dicks on the sensors. I don't think anyone has wanted rub their dick on a canon sensor since 2009. Except maybe the people on dpreview's EOS Digital subforum.
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Jul 29, 2015 00:30
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I don't think anyone has wanted rub their dick on a canon sensor since 2009. I'm sure K-rock has a KY dick swabbing method for cleaning.
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Jul 29, 2015 01:01
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I've had my t3i for about 3 years now, and the only thing I think it is lacking in is low light photography, probably most annoying is the noticable noise involved with getting good starry sky pictures below a 20 second exposure. I shoot in jpeg only and have wondered if not using raw is my problem, but outside of that is there a reasonable body improvement that I could upgrade to?
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Jul 30, 2015 22:44
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Raw doesn't do anything to effect the noise but it does give you a stop or two of extra latitude with the exposure. Try shooting raw and messing with the exposure slider in lightroom or your RAW processor of choice.
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Jul 30, 2015 23:50
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Are you using the Long Exposure Noise Reduction? I don't know that it works miracles but that's what it's designed for.
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Jul 31, 2015 00:07
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Drunk Badger posted:I've had my t3i for about 3 years now, and the only thing I think it is lacking in is low light photography, probably most annoying is the noticable noise involved with getting good starry sky pictures below a 20 second exposure. I shoot in jpeg only and have wondered if not using raw is my problem, but outside of that is there a reasonable body improvement that I could upgrade to?
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Jul 31, 2015 05:26
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Maybe with one exception
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Jul 31, 2015 06:00
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Saw that this morning actually. Only 30k.
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Jul 31, 2015 06:31
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Serious and not-intended-to-be-trolling question: if you don't have a DSLR and are thinking of getting one, be it crop or full frame, is there anything to recommend Canon over Nikon? A friend was asking me this about my Canon and apart from the fact I'm now familiar with the Canon ergonomics and layout (a non-issue for someone new) I'm kinda struggling. All the stats (noise, low light performance, dynamic range) seem to point to Nikon.
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Jul 31, 2015 08:47
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If you've got a friend with canon gear it's worth buying canon so you can borrow lenses.
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Jul 31, 2015 08:58
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BetterLekNextTime posted:Maybe with one exception dpreview posted:At the core of the ME20F-SH is a 2.26 megapixel CMOS sensor, originally announced in 2013 dpreview posted:You can pick up the ME20F-SH this December for $30,000.
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Jul 31, 2015 09:18
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rolleyes posted:Serious and not-intended-to-be-trolling question: if you don't have a DSLR and are thinking of getting one, be it crop or full frame, is there anything to recommend Canon over Nikon? Magic Lantern could be a reason, depends on which model you are going to buy and what you are planning to shoot.
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Jul 31, 2015 11:55
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rolleyes posted:Serious and not-intended-to-be-trolling question: if you don't have a DSLR and are thinking of getting one, be it crop or full frame, is there anything to recommend Canon over Nikon? Canon's lenses are pretty dope. AFAIK, Nikon doesn't really have anything equivalent to Canon's 50mm f/1.2 or 85mm f/1.2. The tilt-shift lenses are pretty legendary as well. Also, Canon has tended to be a little ahead of the curve in terms of video features. But really, whichever you like better is going to be fine. As someone with a lot invested in Canon, I don't think there's anything in the system that I couldn't live without, or anything that Nikon does better that'd be worth it for me to switch. You really can't go wrong with either. dakana fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Jul 31, 2015 |
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Jul 31, 2015 12:13
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astr0man posted:If you've got a friend with canon gear it's worth buying canon so you can borrow lenses. Hah yes, I did actually think of the gear pooling thing shortly after posting. So the manufacturer lens selection is better? Intersting to know. In terms of 3rd party lenses (Tamron, Sigma etc.) it seems pretty balanced from what I've seen, but if you're going for the official gear then that's certainly worth considering.
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Jul 31, 2015 12:32
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rolleyes posted:Serious and not-intended-to-be-trolling question: if you don't have a DSLR and are thinking of getting one, be it crop or full frame, is there anything to recommend Canon over Nikon? The 6d is actually the bomb low light/high ISO performance wise. Canon has dropped the ball big time on base ISO performance but their FF sensors are still awesome performers at high ISO. The canon sensors usually have a teeny bit more DR at high ISO than the Sony equivalents also (but, it's usually like 1/3 stop , at 1600 and up, and nothing like the 2 stop advantage the Sony sensors have at base ISO)
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Jul 31, 2015 13:46
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timrenzi574 posted:Canon has dropped the ball big time on base ISO performance but their FF sensors are still awesome performers at high ISO. What's this based on? My experience has been the exact opposite.
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Jul 31, 2015 13:52
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Thoogsby posted:What's this based on? My experience has been the exact opposite. Go look at the DXO measurement data for SNR & DR for say, the 6d and D750. For DR for example. the exmor starts with a cliff of an advantage, which gets closer as you approach 1600, at which point the canon sensor pulls ahead by a tiny little bit. SNR is consistently slightly higher for the canon sensor (but downsizing the D750 to 20MP would likely put it slightly ahead in SNR, and at least equal in DR) They are woefully behind at low ISO, but high ISO performance is not something one can complain about with the 6D at all Also, nobody should be buying a Canon or Nikon DSLR for innovative video features. That ship sailed a long time ago.
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Jul 31, 2015 14:06
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If I go with a used 6D, what do I look for in used cameras to tell how used it is?
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Jul 31, 2015 14:08
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Check the shutter actuation count, you'll need a computer and a usb cable for the camera to do it.
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Jul 31, 2015 14:15
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timrenzi574 posted:Go look at the DXO measurement data for SNR & DR for say, the 6d and D750. So you're referring specifically to the 6d sensor. That's the exception in Canon's line of FF sensors, most of which are garbage at anything close to 1600. Not trying to be a pedant, but it's an important distinction since the performance gap is so large. Also a 5d3 with magic lantern is one of best sub $2k options out there for professional film making. Nikon can't really compete there to my knowledge.
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Jul 31, 2015 14:18
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Sorry, yes. I'd expect whatever made the 6d sensor a performer at high ISO will continue with their next generation 5d4 or whatever they will call it though. Will probably still have poo poo shadow snr at low ISO though. ML does add innovative video features - canon though, seems more interested in taking them away 
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Jul 31, 2015 14:28
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Looks like the 6D won't work with the EF-S lenses I have... What's my best option that is compatible?
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Jul 31, 2015 15:08
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Drunk Badger posted:Looks like the 6D won't work with the EF-S lenses I have... What's my best option that is compatible? The 70D or 7DMk2 , or sell your crop lenses and buy some FF ones.
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Jul 31, 2015 15:18
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Drunk Badger posted:Looks like the 6D won't work with the EF-S lenses I have... What's my best option that is compatible? Honestly I'd decide how important night time photography is to you, as well as photography in general. A 6D is a great option all around, but you'll definitely pay about 3x what you've currently spent on photography just to replace all your equivalent glass. Whirlwind Jones fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jul 31, 2015 |
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Jul 31, 2015 16:23
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Drunk Badger posted:I've had my t3i for about 3 years now, and the only thing I think it is lacking in is low light photography, probably most annoying is the noticable noise involved with getting good starry sky pictures below a 20 second exposure. I shoot in jpeg only and have wondered if not using raw is my problem, but outside of that is there a reasonable body improvement that I could upgrade to? Things that matter most for starry sky photography: 1. Dark skies 2. Large sensor 3. Fast aperture 4. Wide lens angle 5. High ISO performance It sounds like you must be in a relatively dark area since you are bumping up the ISO to fairly noticeable noise levels on long exposures, and the T3i is a good sensor that only sees a big improvement by bumping up to a full frame sensor (6d being the best Canon option due to its great high ISO performance). So a big factor in reducing noise would be to have a lens with a fast aperture. The lower the F number, the less you will need to bump up the ISO for any given exposure. You also want a wide angle lens to let in more light, because you will be able to leave your shutter open longer before the earth's rotation begins to register star trails on your photo (think about panning your head side-to-side when looking at something normally versus doing it when looking through binoculars). And keep in mind that there is a crop factor when using a wide angle lens on a T3i versus a Full Frame sensor: a Rokinon 24mm F/1.4 lens is effectively a 38mm lens on a crop sensor. This was taken out in BFE Texas with a T2i using a 16mm focal length (effectively 26mm on the T2i crop sensor), F/2.8, and 20-ish seconds of exposure.  It's also important to shoot in RAW for night sky stuff. If you shoot straight to jpeg, you have little to no control over the color/brightness/saturation - once you get it onto your computer - without seriously degrading image quality. Also, with RAW files shot at a wide angle, you can image stack several photos to clean up a lot of noise and make the picture a lot sharper. And check out lonelyspeck.com for all sorts of great details, tips, and tricks for night sky photography.
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Jul 31, 2015 16:27
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Drunk Badger posted:Looks like the 6D won't work with the EF-S lenses I have... What's my best option that is compatible? For cheap FF lenses, start with the 40mm pancake (MUST HAVE), 85mm 1.8 and then the 14mm samyang 2.8 for really wide angle stuff if necessary. The 6D has good enough high ISO that you likely will not need the expensive f2.8 zooms. If you are allergic to primes there is a newish Canon 24-105mm that is variable aperture for ~$350 and Tamron 70-300 variable aperture for ~$300.
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Jul 31, 2015 17:02
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zeroprime posted:
This is pretty great.
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Jul 31, 2015 17:52
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Thoogsby posted:So you're referring specifically to the 6d sensor. That's the exception in Canon's line of FF sensors, most of which are garbage at anything close to 1600. Not trying to be a pedant, but it's an important distinction since the performance gap is so large. Try using magic lantern raw on a paid job, you'll wish you spent that money instead on anything else - Red Epic rental, Blackmagic Cinema Camera, etc.
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Jul 31, 2015 18:01
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mrlego posted:This is pretty great. That's the kind of thing I'm aiming for, but that's just the primary reason I was thinking about upgrading, I certainly don't mind the improvments is see in other situations. Maybe the answer is to shoot raw, so I think I'll give that a try this weekend. I'm leaning towards the 7D mk 2, but if the cost of replacing everything isn't too bad, I'll just work more overtime to cover the difference to the 6D and know that I've upgraded as far as I reasonably should. What's the Magic Lantern situation for the 7D mk 2?
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Jul 31, 2015 21:57
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After some research, I think I'll go with the 7D mk2. I'll be able to use my lenses (and save at least $2k in not buying new ones immediately), and while there isn't a Magic Lantern build for it yet that I can see (I loved using it with my t3i) I primarily use it for the intervalometer, which is in the camera anyways. The reviews of the sensor make it seem like it's on par with the 6D as well. I'll plan to go full frame next time, but unless someone sees something wrong with my thinking, I think I'll get one tomorrow. On a side note, why is this bundle cheaper than the cost of the body? http://www.amazon.com/7D-II-Digital-Battery-Accessory/dp/B00OZVHGI4
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Aug 1, 2015 07:09
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Any time you see photography gear priced too good to be true, it's usually grey market.
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Aug 1, 2015 07:38
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Or one of those stores that is out of stock unless you pay them more for the battery, charger, strap, etc.
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Aug 1, 2015 07:44
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If I want spare batteries for my 600d do I just buy canon ones or is there a better option.
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Aug 1, 2015 14:49
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People swear by Wasabi. I've had one die in my 6D when I was shooting in live view which caused the LCD to flicker like crazy for about 10 minutes after I turned it back on. YMMV.
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Aug 1, 2015 16:54
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Sterlingtek. Cheaper than canon and they perform the same or better. They typically last longer power charge than my oem. More reliable than other third party batteries I've ever used (wasabi etc) I've been using them for about 10 years in various cameras (Olympus, canon and Sony) and I've never had a bad experience.
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Aug 1, 2015 16:59
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I'll check them out. I've realised I'm going to need quite a few to get through a week out bush. A zoom lens wouldn't hurt either but that's for when I have money. E: Can I use either stirlingtek or wasabi batteries on the oem charger or will I need to buy theirs? underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 00:50
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