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Picking up an 05 Saab 92x on Monday, can I play too? I figure it's more Subaru than Saab, and I live in flannel country so...
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Aug 2, 2015 02:28
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martinlutherbling posted:Picking up an 05 Saab 92x on Monday, can I play too? I figure it's more Subaru than Saab, and I live in flannel country so... You drive the best kind of Subaru. The secret kind.
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Aug 2, 2015 18:43
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martinlutherbling posted:Picking up an 05 Saab 92x on Monday, can I play too? I figure it's more Subaru than Saab, and I live in flannel country so...
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Aug 2, 2015 19:07
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Need help with a REAL big gently caress up. While changing the timing belt, the clamp I had holding the cams on the drivers side popped off and the cams turned. what the gently caress do I do? Edit: I turned the top one counter clockwise and the bottom clockwise and got them lined up again. There was significant tension or whatever on both. Was that the right thing to do? DAT RAM fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 21:28
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Awesome. I'm really stoked, it's been a looooong time since I've had a fun car. I'll have some money to put into it too once I sell my Jeep. The first thing will be the timing belt—90,5xx miles so better safe than sorry, I think? Or is it safe to wait till I'm at 100-105k to do that job? After that I'm not sure what to do first. Either wheels and summer tires, suspension, or downpipe and tune. For wheels I'm thinking 17" Sparco Terra's with whatever summer tires have good reviews and are cheap. However I'm thinking of putting this off till the spring as I'm in VT and we've only got about 2-3 months of decent weather left. As far as suspension I'm looking for improved handling, MILD drop (again, I'm in VT and our roads suck up here), while maintaining a decently comfortable ride. I'm leaning towards KYB excel-g struts and either US STI pink springs or Mach V spring, and some flavor of 22mm rear sway bar. Downpipe would be whatever's cheapest with good reviews and a Cobb stage 2 tune. So, if you guys have any thoughts on what order I should do things in, what parts I should be looking at and where the best place to buy them is, I'm all ears. Thanks!
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Aug 2, 2015 21:39
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DAT RAM posted:Need help with a REAL big gently caress up. That's fine. I don't try to hold anything in place beforehand and turn those cams as I am installing the belt. Yes there will be resistance because you are opening some of the valves partially. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1PunROR3VU
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Aug 2, 2015 21:47
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DAT RAM posted:Edit: I turned the top one counter clockwise and the bottom clockwise and got them lined up again. There was significant tension or whatever on both. Was that the right thing to do? Yes, that's the right thing to do. The tension is from the valves wanting to stay closed, at the initial timing position the driver's side cams have the valves open. They'll spin back out of alignment eagerly, it gets frustrating with only one set of hands and no cam lock tool, ask me how I know.
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Aug 2, 2015 22:13
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Thanks guys. I feel a hell of a lot better than I did. Pretty sure I taught my kids a few new words in the process
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Aug 2, 2015 22:18
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Also I'm using a Gates belt. Are the lines on the belt worth a drat? I got the passenger side on there dead to rights.
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Aug 2, 2015 22:30
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martinlutherbling posted:Awesome. I'm really stoked, it's been a looooong time since I've had a fun car. I'll have some money to put into it too once I sell my Jeep. I can help with most of that. If it's more convenient you can wait a bit on the timing stuff. The gates parts are pretty good although I would suggest an OEM water pump. Wheels/tires is pretty personal preference. I like some of the enkei stuff. Just make sure you get the width/offset right. Something like 8" wide and +45 to 48 offset would work well for a wider high performance tire in 225/45 like a hankook rs3. For suspension I would make sure you use something wagon specific, especially if you carry stuff around. Racecomp makes wagon springs but they are fairly stiff and require a better shock than the GR2/excel g. I have the regular black springs on my car and really like them, and they aren't super low. If you want to do a little cutting koni inserts would go with them well. Also I can get you most of these things, so send me a PM or email (peter at functionauto.com) if you want.
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Aug 2, 2015 22:44
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I really liked my setup with Koni Yellows and Racecomp wagon springs on my '06 WRX wagon. Swaybar on top of that would make it pretty nice.
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Aug 2, 2015 23:42
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The main reason I'm leaning towards KYB and Pinks/Mach V is that it's the cheapest option by far. That and there seem to be quite a few users on 92x.com running similar setups, with only good things to say. I should mention that this car will probably never see any sort of competition or track time or anything, just some spirited driving on back roads.
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Aug 3, 2015 00:33
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Thanks Jamal and bajaha. I got the belt on and hit the starter long enough for the engine to turn a few times and everything is still lining up right.
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Aug 3, 2015 02:10
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A quick 2.5 hour stop at the DMV and it's good to go!
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Aug 3, 2015 22:59
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Just scheduled a tune at EFI. So stoked.
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Aug 4, 2015 20:19
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So I'm about to pull the trigger on a new turbo charged forester, as a first time subaru owner is there anything I should know about?
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Aug 5, 2015 00:42
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ColoradoCleric posted:So I'm about to pull the trigger on a new turbo charged forester, as a first time subaru owner is there anything I should know about?
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Aug 5, 2015 00:57
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Do you guys ever go out into the garage/driveway and just have a little giggle at your car? I do almost every day, it's an awesome feeling to own one of your childhood/early adulthood dream cars.
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Aug 5, 2015 02:34
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I giggle every time I turn the key in the ignition.
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Aug 5, 2015 02:37
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You guys are making me miss my STI. If I'd only know then what we know about head gaskets now... maybe things would be different.
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Aug 5, 2015 02:57
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:You guys are making me miss my STI. If they'd only build them with not the EJ257 now... maybe things would be different.
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Aug 5, 2015 03:11
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martinlutherbling posted:Awesome. I'm really stoked, it's been a looooong time since I've had a fun car. I'll have some money to put into it too once I sell my Jeep. Sup Saabaru buddy. Can I buy your OEM wheels if you're unloading them?
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Aug 5, 2015 13:22
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My first gen is finally nearing completion. With the paint at least. 
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Aug 5, 2015 14:44
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blk posted:Sup Saabaru buddy. Can I buy your OEM wheels if you're unloading them? Edit: I'm hoping to have my suspension done by this time next month. Is it worthwhile replacing the front strut mounts while I'm at it? On the one hand, I really don't want to spend the extra $170, but if it's pretty crucial I'll do it. martinlutherbling fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Aug 5, 2015 |
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Aug 5, 2015 19:00
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Yeah, you should do it. The fronts have bearings to allow the struts to turn and your steering will get weird if they're seized up or worn out.
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Aug 5, 2015 20:03
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 lad
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Aug 8, 2015 07:02
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Poor little Subie, what have they done to you? 
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Aug 8, 2015 07:05
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I left the parking brake on and tried to force a rear rotor off by driving an 8mm bolt through it. I disconnected the spring/pin that holds half of the parking brake back doing this. I manually turned the gear from behind to loosen the spring to get the rotor off. I can't seem to get the spring and pin back to hold the left half of the parking brake. Any advice to proceed from here? I was thinking it was time to take it in. The first picture is the right side, what it should look like. http://imgur.com/scecNFP This is the left side, where I can't get the spring and metal piece back on http://imgur.com/nsNeJ4X Edit: I got it reinstalled after looking at the factory service manual. Hollis Brown fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 15:03
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No joke, i honestly thought "stretching" tires over rims was a joke. How in gods name do you get the tires off? The inner steel cable along the bead has to be cut?
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Aug 8, 2015 19:10
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The tire diameter and wheel size still match, it's just using something way narrow for the rim width. Getting the bead seated can be pretty challenging. As far as going back to AWD, he's going to need a new center diff too. It would have needed to be taken apart and welded, or replaced with a spool, to make the car drive after the front shafts were pulled. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 19:38
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Hello Subaru nerds; My brother (OK, his wife technically) has a 2006 Saab 9-2X 2.5i automatic with about 160,000 km on it. He brought it over to my place to change the belts and spark plugs this morning (of course - the spark plug tube seals have started leaking), as well as chase down a rattle/squeaking noise that has developed recently. This noise seems to occur very sporadically at idle (where it's more of a rattle/knocking noise than a squeak) and happens without fail at 2000-2200 RPM...everywhere else it's quiet. My thought is that it's likely one of two things; first, possibly a bad idler pulley. Second, and considering it's on the original timing belt, a bad timing belt tensioner. Even though it's a lovely way of diagnosing problems, any video I've found on YouTube with a bad tensioner sounds almost exactly like what we're chasing down. What do you guys think...am I on the right track or should we look elsewhere first?
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Aug 8, 2015 20:07
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You should look at replacing that tb asap
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Aug 8, 2015 20:34
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Yeah everything is about due anyway. OEM water pump, rest of gates timing kit is ok. TCK304 I think?
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Aug 8, 2015 20:51
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Someone threw a rock through my front drivers side window a few weeks ago and I took it to a local glass store to get it replaced. Cost $300 to for parts and labor and they used a non-OEM window. Since then I've been having issues with wind noise coming from the window. I took it back and they raised the window a little bit and the issue is still there. I took it back again and told them it's due to the non-OEM window. That's what I'm assuming it is because I never had an issue before and the fit of the window is off compared to the front passenger side window (Which is OEM). So the guy at the front told me that he can replace it and will eat the cost of labor but I would have to pay for the difference in the non-OEM vs OEM. He pulled up some document where it showed the price of the non-OEM at $60 and I asked him why he charged me $160 for it and he said something about cost and what not. He called the Subaru dealership and they are selling the window for $160 and he wants me to pay $100 to get the window replaced with the OEM. Is this fair?
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Aug 10, 2015 22:49
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It isn't the window. It is how they installed it. Does the window seem to wiggle more? There are some clips in the window which cannot be rerused, but lazy installers reuse them.
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Aug 10, 2015 23:30
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nm posted:It isn't the window. It is how they installed it. Yes, the window wiggles more. 2001 OBW by the way Busy Bee fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Aug 11, 2015 |
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Aug 11, 2015 00:33
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Busy Bee posted:Yes, the window wiggles more. They didn't change the clips in the door. You can't reuse them.
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Aug 11, 2015 00:35
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Also the rubber in the front makes noise when it gets split enough, so check that.
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Aug 11, 2015 00:38
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nm posted:They didn't change the clips in the door. You can't reuse them. Where can I purchase the clips? It doesn't seem to be a separate item here - http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49262290&ukey_assembly=6023547
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Aug 11, 2015 00:54
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ive done terrible things to my 05 sti and its now a track only car (spirited gas station trips aside...) and as expected its horribly nose heavy. before i go cutting everything i deem unimportant are there any unorthodox part swaps that can free up some nose weight? sti hids to wrx units, early model non-tilt steering column?. if your curious it weights 2890 without me with 1/4 tank of gas, 6point cage ith extra diagonals and nascar door bars along with everththing not required to make it run removed.
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Aug 11, 2015 02:42
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