|
The fully dried ones are essentially plastic at this point so bin them.
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 05:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 10:40 |
|
|
I have a small room that I'm turning into my hobby room, for painting minis or whatever else. I need to paint the walls, and it has a low-hanging fluorescent shop light in there. Do you think that the wall color would mess with my perception of color on my minis?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 05:55
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I have a small room that I'm turning into my hobby room, for painting minis or whatever else. I need to paint the walls, and it has a low-hanging fluorescent shop light in there. Do you think that the wall color would mess with my perception of color on my minis? Possibly. The color of the walls can be reflected on to everything else in the room and tint it just ever so slightly. It's much more apparent in photography when you photograph models or any kind of fine art for documentation. But I doubt that it would do much to your perception of color. I'd just paint the walls in some kind of neutral color.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 06:13
|
|
|
Fluorescent lighting is generally pretty bad for color.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 07:10
|
|
|
I literally cannot face painting more green: what do you guys think would be good colours for haqq'islam? I was thinking crimson fist blue and light grey cloaks. What are good vallejo/reaper/etc colours for that rich dark blue?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 12:27
|
|
|
http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/24 Oh my god this solves SO many problems I've had with leaf flock, namely painting them different colors.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 13:55
|
|
|
Solid, dried paints are useless, maybe a chemist would know how to reconstitute them. If any are soft pour water into the pot and stir them with a brush handle a day or two later.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 14:59
|
|
|
shoplifter posted:I'm getting back into the hobby after a loooong time, and I have about $100 in paints I purchased over a decade ago, a mix between Reaper (in pots) and GW (some flip top, some screw off lids). Obviously when I opened up my paints, they were in various states, from separated, to gummy, to fully dried out. Most of the separated/gummy paints I feel like I've been able to mix back to a good consistency with a little extra liquid and elbow grease. The fully dried ones I'm not confident in doing anything at all with. The GW paints were all in a much worse off state, but even half of those I've tried seem to have 'come back' with little issue. buy vallejo's basic set and their civil war set and you will have a pretty good spectrum to start with never ever buy flip tops again.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 15:18
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice everyone. Sounds like I'm on the right track, and with some good judgement as to what's good and bad, I'll be ok. Most of it has been relatively obvious so far. When I bought everything my FLGS didn't carry dropper bottles. The two droppers of Vallejo I had are both great. I absolutely will be buying only droppers in the future.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 15:23
|
|
|
Post 9-11 User posted:Solid, dried paints are useless, maybe a chemist would know how to reconstitute them. If any are soft pour water into the pot and stir them with a brush handle a day or two later. would microwaving them do anything??
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 15:33
|
|
|
No.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 15:39
|
|
|
Slimnoid posted:http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/24 I need to get outside for a walk, I'm sure there must be walking trails nearby with loads of birch trees. I've paid for bags of the stuff but hell free leaves for models!
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 15:56
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I have a small room that I'm turning into my hobby room, for painting minis or whatever else. I need to paint the walls, and it has a low-hanging fluorescent shop light in there. Do you think that the wall color would mess with my perception of color on my minis? As Base Emitter said, the lights are your primary concern. Research and buy a good tube, that'll get you very far. With my old standard flourescent light, I could not tell green from brown. At all!
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 16:19
|
|
|
would melting via a flame do anything?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 16:44
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:I need to get outside for a walk, I'm sure there must be walking trails nearby with loads of birch trees. I've paid for bags of the stuff but hell free leaves for models! Bring a ziplock bag when you do, because that stuff will get EVERYWHERE otherwise. Also, your location will depend on when they start dropping, as well as the species of the tree itself. It can be anywhere from late spring to early autumn, so you probably want to do a little research on that. Over here in New England we usually see them budding around mid-September straight on until November.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 16:47
|
|
|
I'd take a wild stab at make fire, possibly make noxious fumes, probably burn your house down. be sure to livestream the attempt 
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 16:49
|
|
|
hmmmm boiling it in water???
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 17:00
|
|
|
The paints are gunked up as the moisture in them has evaporated over time. Why would applying heat in any shape or form help?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 17:05
|
|
|
You will probably get some hot, slightly soft plastic. It's a chemical as well as physical change when acrylic paint cures, as I understand it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 17:05
|
|
|
gamma rays?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 17:26
|
|
|
Only if you really want muscly green minis.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 17:29
|
|
|
This only works for living scrunts, not plastic ones.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 18:11
|
|
|
Moola posted:hmmmm This would have the closest chance of working, but if you boil it heavily you might denature the solvents. So if you're going this route, draw the line at what you'd drink for tea or coffee, and try immersing the chunk in a warm bath for a bit. Obviously, what you're most likely to get at the end of this is a severly watered down paint. So kind of seems not worth it. I suppose you can just immerse the bottle with gunked paint and top open in a warm bath and maybe the wet palette effect will work? I'm kind of curious now. Definitely don't apply heat directly that will dry it out even more, but warmed water might work. Edit: this is for acrylics. If it's oil, and there's a resuscitation procedure, I don't know what it is. Look on art forums. Probably not possible most of the time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 19:26
|
|
|
Moola posted:would melting via a flame do anything? That only works with a full set of Warhammer Fantasy figurines.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 20:09
|
|
|
I dont actually have any paints that have dried I was just wondering 
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 20:11
|
|
|
So, I went and tinted some birch seed today for the first time. These were from some pods I grabbed near the end of November 2013 and kept in a bag since then, hardly touched. Before I tinted anything I baked them in an oven as per the directions, and from there on followed exactly what the tutorial said. To speed up the drying time I threw each batch into the microwave on parchment paper at 15-second intervals, sifting the piles around and running them lightly through fingers to prevent clumping. I did this about 5 times for each batch. Thoughts: - Yellow is a pain in the rear end. It might have been from the paint I selected, but it came off as much more watered-down than the photo suggests, and there was more clumping than any of the other two. Yellow is just a pain in the rear end to work with anyway, but I think next time I'll try using GW Golden Yellow instead--there seems to be more pigment in there. Possibly tinting it with white first and then yellow, to make it pop more, but that might be more effort than is really worth it. - If you want to do this in large batches you'd probably be better off ordering large bags of birch seed. Or you live near a bunch of birch trees or something. If you want to cover terrain with this stuff you're going to need a lot of it, basically, and this used up 3/4th of the bag I had, which was maybe a cup and a half worth of the stuff. It's more than enough for me for what I'm going to use it for, but army-wide stuff is going to be troublesome. - I'm not sure what orange color this is but I am SUPER happy with the end result. Rust Brown worked great for a first try, and straddles the line between brown and red very well. - I want to try other colors, like blue and purple and pink. Would make for some interesting alien terrain I think.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 20:19
|
|
|
I have no idea why but you're right yellow is always 100% bullshit to apply compared to literally any other colour.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 20:22
|
|
|
Do they not use cadmium pigments for yellows?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 21:46
|
|
|
everythingWasBees posted:Do they not use cadmium pigments for yellows? Hell if I know. If they do, it probably depends on the brand.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2015 22:19
|
|
|
everythingWasBees posted:Do they not use cadmium pigments for yellows? It does depend on the brand, cadmium is a bit toxic and also more expensive (we need our batteries okay) so you'll see a lot of "cadmium yellow (hue)" on non-miniature paints to indicate they're matching the hue but not using cadmium specifically.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 00:26
|
|
|
Crossposting from the 40k thread:Star Man posted:Welp, my project this week is to get this image painted on to a space marine command squad banner: Have most of my colors blocked in. Now comes the fun part of doing all the poo poo I've ever learned as an oil painter on such a tiny format. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 04:48
|
|
|
I just want you to know that I support your endeavor 1000%. Please tell me your commander is named Lord or Road British
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 08:57
|
|
|
Silhouette posted:I just want you to know that I support your endeavor 1000%. Well, it is now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 13:00
|
|
|
Ran into with an issue with some spray today, army painter white. Not sure what caused it but the first half of the minis were fine, but when I flipped em over to do their backs the spray went weird and has left a very rough texture, almost like grit or something? I don't think it's an issue with humidity or whatever as I also sprayed some other stuff black and had no issues with that. Is my best bet to strip em and try again? Or will it smooth itself out if I just paint it as-is?
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 13:15
|
|
|
Zark the Damned posted:Ran into with an issue with some spray today, army painter white. Not sure what caused it but the first half of the minis were fine, but when I flipped em over to do their backs the spray went weird and has left a very rough texture, almost like grit or something? Strip and reprime. Skunky spray happens for a variety of reasons, don't sweat it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 13:22
|
|
|
I bought a MixKwik for this reason
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 13:28
|
|
|
I've never experienced anything fixing itself with that sort of stuff  I've finished some stuff: Grey Knight Terminator squad (3D printed backpacks and guns):  Librarian:  Dreadknight (15mm Leviathan):  Dread converted from centurion:   Everything is a bit rough, as I had a deadline and had to paint it all with nothing but the gloomy Danish summer as a light source. I'll probably go back over them once I get our new workshop set up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 13:29
|
|
|
They are a bit drab, the Dreadknight needs his finishing details, but they look terrific. The clear bases are neato, going to stick with them?
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 17:12
|
|
|
I agree. Once I get them under proper lighting I'll add some edge highlights and deepen the shadows a bit. Any further suggestions to make them pop? I'm thinking some of the red/white stripe design on the marine weapons maybe? For the knight and dread I should probably look intro weathering.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 20:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 10:40 |
|
|
More bases! I think this is what im gonna do for this army, prefer it to the wet mud     sorry for lovely phone quality, not much light atm
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2015 21:56
|
|