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New to this thread. I don't have any fancy knives myself, but I follow this guy on FB and his knives are gorgeous. http://www.middletonmadeknives.com/
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Aug 7, 2015 12:51
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I just sprang for this. I just can't seem to get a sharp enough edge freehand.
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Aug 8, 2015 03:52
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I honed my knife for the first time tonight. It got sharper, but it also got some diagonal scratches on it. What did I do?
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Aug 10, 2015 03:34
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What did you hone it on and where are the scratches exactly? Your angle was probably a bit off. It's probably gonna happen for a while.
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Aug 10, 2015 05:02
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They're on the side of the knife, they seem like they're roughly at the angle I was pulling it across. I was honing it on the smooth side of a Kyocera ceramic rod.
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Aug 10, 2015 18:20
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What kind of a honing rod/steel should I get? Does it even matter?
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Aug 10, 2015 19:37
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signalnoise posted:What kind of a honing rod/steel should I get? Does it even matter? Ceramic, This looks like a decent cheap one.
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Aug 10, 2015 20:04
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Crosspostin' - this Fibrox knife set might be an OK deal if anyone is looking. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3381440&pagenumber=190#post448806126
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Aug 10, 2015 22:31
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An inconsiderate houseguest tossed one of my carbon knives with some other dirty dishes in the sink, where it sat wet overnight. There's now some small rust spots. Best way to fix?
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Aug 11, 2015 19:19
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Don't get in a bind about it. Wash it and dry it. If it really bothers you steel wool will take the spots off or they will just wear off over time.
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Aug 11, 2015 20:08
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Your kitchen experience will be much less stressful when you come to view your knives and pans and whatnot as tools. Tools get banged up, they get discolored, they get scratched. Those are just signs that you use them and they're not just for show.
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Aug 11, 2015 20:11
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I was more worried that chopping something with a visible rust spot could introduce off flavors into what I was cooking, but point taken. I'll wash the hell out of and let it be. Also it used to be a pretty knife, damnit 
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Aug 11, 2015 20:16
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You'd get an off color maybe but no, not really. Iron's good for you anyway.  I started playing with my edge pro knockoff. I need some practice but I can see it getting good. I wish it would clamp the blade though.
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Aug 11, 2015 20:18
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22 Eargesplitten posted:They're on the side of the knife, they seem like they're roughly at the angle I was pulling it across. Yeah that usually just means either the angle was a little too acute or you got the side of the knife at the end of the stroke. The ceramic is a little less forgiving because it'll take a bit of metal off instead of just realigning it so it'll scratch the knife easier.
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Aug 11, 2015 22:11
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pr0k posted:Don't get in a bind about it. Wash it and dry it. If it really bothers you steel wool will take the spots off or they will just wear off over time. 22 Eargesplitten posted:I honed my knife for the first time tonight. It got sharper, but it also got some diagonal scratches on it. What did I do?
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Aug 11, 2015 23:22
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SubG posted:Taking steel wool to red rust is generally a good idea. Brown patina will protect the metal under it, but uneven red rust will trap more moisture/crud, which can lead to further corrosion. He was using a ceramic rod not a stone, just honing it. I would assume he just used too acute of an angle as others have said. Also, agreed on the rust, rust begets more rust so always clean that poo poo off. Barkeeper's Friend can help on really stubborn rust.
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Aug 11, 2015 23:42
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:He was using a ceramic rod not a stone, just honing it. I would assume he just used too acute of an angle as others have said.
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Aug 11, 2015 23:49
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SubG posted:they're twisting their wrist this is what I was trying to say and couldn't find the words for some reason
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Aug 12, 2015 04:47
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So, my Tojiro gyuto arrived and holy loving poo poo: I never owned a really nice knife before, now it feels like there is a whole new parameter of cooking that I was never aware of has been revealed to me. Now comes the other expensive part. For knives like the Tojiro, a #1000 stone is decent enough? I don't mind sharpening by hand, done enough times before.
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Aug 13, 2015 01:36
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Transmetropolitan posted:So, my Tojiro gyuto arrived and holy loving poo poo: I never owned a really nice knife before, now it feels like there is a whole new parameter of cooking that I was never aware of has been revealed to me. A combo stone is a good cheaper option if you like to freehand sharpen, something like ~500/~1000 will give you a good edge and won't take forever like doing the whole thing on a 1k would. Another option is the Edge Pro knockoff. It comes with sort of crappy stones but it will do a decent job, the nice thing about it is that you can replace the crap stones with Shapton Glass stones from CKTG which makes it work really well and lets you space out the expense so it doesn't hit you quite as hard in the wallet. Unless you are very good at freehand sharpening the EP knockoff will probably do a better job over all.
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Aug 13, 2015 02:00
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I got the edge pro knockoff - my knife are definitely sharper but not crazy sharp or anything. They may just suck...should I definitely be using all 4 stones to sharpen?
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Aug 16, 2015 04:44
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sellouts posted:I got the edge pro knockoff - my knife are definitely sharper but not crazy sharp or anything. They may just suck...should I definitely be using all 4 stones to sharpen? Did you set the angles right? The indicated angles on mine were off by a ridiculously large margin (what it called 20 was actually 35). For the rest, you make sure that with finer stones you also finish with less pressure, and scrub out the built-up metal filing. That should get you to a rough shaving edge at least. After that, stropping is the quickest way to improve your edge further.
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Aug 17, 2015 18:49
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Can anybody recommend a fairly cheap but good quality lapping plate to maintain stones? I just got a shapton glass 4000 grit stone and put a little gouge in it in my first session because I was used to using more pressure 
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Aug 17, 2015 23:28
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Pikey posted:Can anybody recommend a fairly cheap but good quality lapping plate to maintain stones? I just got a shapton glass 4000 grit stone and put a little gouge in it in my first session because I was used to using more pressure Do you have a granite counter top, or some sheets of float glass that you could use? Wet a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper down to it, and have at it. If the gouge is really small, though, you could probably just work around it until it wears down.
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Aug 18, 2015 05:12
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I have a coarse DMT plate (the cheaper yellow DuoSharp ones) that I use for lapping (and for re-profiling/chip removal work), they work pretty well.
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Aug 18, 2015 16:45
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ma i married a tuna posted:Did you set the angles right? The indicated angles on mine were off by a ridiculously large margin (what it called 20 was actually 35). For the rest, you make sure that with finer stones you also finish with less pressure, and scrub out the built-up metal filing. That should get you to a rough shaving edge at least. After that, stropping is the quickest way to improve your edge further. I need to check that. I thought I did a good job and it's sharp but not sharp enough. That could be it.
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Aug 20, 2015 05:13
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I feel dumb asking this: Is there an obvious way to do that?
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Aug 20, 2015 08:53
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sellouts posted:I feel dumb asking this: Is there an obvious way to do that?
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Aug 20, 2015 09:26
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So I have a Richardson Sheffield V Sabatier 5 set that I got for £30 (instead of £50 ). I picked up this thing and it seems to work pretty well, but since then I've found out the difference between sharpening and honing. Should I get myself a honing rod too or will this sharpener be good enough for this type of inexpensive knife?
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Aug 20, 2015 10:45
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ma i married a tuna posted:Did you set the angles right? The indicated angles on mine were off by a ridiculously large margin (what it called 20 was actually 35). For the rest, you make sure that with finer stones you also finish with less pressure, and scrub out the built-up metal filing. That should get you to a rough shaving edge at least. After that, stropping is the quickest way to improve your edge further. The angle is going to differ from knife to knife anyway, because the thickness and heights of blades are going to vary. Pikey posted:Can anybody recommend a fairly cheap but good quality lapping plate to maintain stones? I just got a shapton glass 4000 grit stone and put a little gouge in it in my first session because I was used to using more pressure Atomas seem to be the most popular flattening plate. Not super cheap, but not holy cow expensive, either. The Atoma plates are supposed to suffer from less sticktion and less prone to diamond pull out than DMTs, the regular ones at least. DMT does make that really big plate made especially for lapping, with what they call Diamond Hardcoat Technology, which I guess is supposed to resist pull out. And it's certified flat to +/- 0.0005”. Quite pricey, though. The other nice thing about Atomas is they sell replacement diamond pads, so you can replace a worn pad to the same base you already have. You can also buy a different grit pad and make a double sided Atoma. If you want really cheap people use stuff like cinder block, sometimes with silicon carbide powder. Or as Karia mentioned, something like a granite plate/glass and sandpaper. Or a plate and drywall screen. Real cheap is a level concrete sidewalk. But higher grit stones do benefit from a higher grit flattener - or should I say edge finish off a higher grit stone benefits from a higher grit flattener.
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Aug 20, 2015 10:50
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sellouts posted:I feel dumb asking this: Is there an obvious way to do that? If you have a smart phone (do people still not have these?) get an app for your phone that reads angles from the internal accelerometer, check it against a few things with known angles to make sure that it works, and then use that.
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Aug 20, 2015 11:48
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I got an angle cube from Amazon and zeroed off the platform. There are a bunch of YouTube videos showing how to do this. I don't think I paid much attention to the settings on the Edge Faux. Also the shapton glass stones that AVLR recommended make it a dream to use.
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Aug 20, 2015 12:45
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Does anyone here have a non-stainless kitchen knife that only gets infrequent use? For some reason I was really intrigued by a kurouchi finish gyuto in blue #1 steel. I'm wondering if loss of sharpness due to corrosion is a major issue, or if there any inherent issues with only using non-stainless knifes infrequently.
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Aug 23, 2015 00:37
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Glockamole posted:Does anyone here have a non-stainless kitchen knife that only gets infrequent use? For some reason I was really intrigued by a kurouchi finish gyuto in blue #1 steel. I'm wondering if loss of sharpness due to corrosion is a major issue, or if there any inherent issues with only using non-stainless knifes infrequently.
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Aug 23, 2015 00:55
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Glockamole posted:Does anyone here have a non-stainless kitchen knife that only gets infrequent use? For some reason I was really intrigued by a kurouchi finish gyuto in blue #1 steel. I'm wondering if loss of sharpness due to corrosion is a major issue, or if there any inherent issues with only using non-stainless knifes infrequently. Like SubG said, it should be fine unless you live in a really humid environment, just make sure you dry it completely between uses and if you are going to store it for an extended period, like for months without any use, rub it down with some mineral oil beforehand to keep any moisture off. Also since some iron claddings are pretty reactive you should keep a towel around to wipe it off with during cooking, this lets you give it a quick wipe if you have to deal with something in the house and are going to be away for a bit too.
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Aug 23, 2015 01:04
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Glockamole posted:Does anyone here have a non-stainless kitchen knife that only gets infrequent use? For some reason I was really intrigued by a kurouchi finish gyuto in blue #1 steel. I'm wondering if loss of sharpness due to corrosion is a major issue, or if there any inherent issues with only using non-stainless knifes infrequently. I've got a Carter nakiri that I only take out when doing more than a handful of veggies, and it's still wicked sharp even after weeks of no use.
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Aug 23, 2015 01:19
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Anthony Bourdain visits Bob Kramer's workshop on a show called Raw Craft https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4x0f2b_0kn0
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Sep 3, 2015 11:17
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Hey Knife Thread- I had been following along here for a while and I did everything but pull the trigger, after having done the research, on a couple knives. I have a ho-hum set of Henkel's right now but I would like to buy something like a Chinese cleaver for veggies and then a Japanese carbon chef style knife. Since I have forgotten everything I read I will be lazy and just ask. Is there a knock down go to Japanese style Chef's knife that is a clear winner? I was on chef knives to go and the options there area a bit over whelming. I have bought the Victorinox knife recommended here for my parent's and my wife's parents and it has been a big hit. Thus, to summarize, I'm looking to buy a CCK, a Japanese style carbon chef's knife that is not huge (>8ish inches), and perhaps some decent stones to keep everything sharp. I have the Lansky kit right now but it doesn't work well on bigger knives. Also, I'm typically a rocker/chopper. TIA
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Sep 5, 2015 17:30
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ThirstyBuck posted:Hey Knife Thread- You want a Gyuto, they are the most general purpose type of kitchen knife, equivalent to a western Chef's Knife. Also stainless steel is just as good and sharp as carbon steel these days, you should make your choice based on the qualities of the knife other than the steel used, things like how hard the steel was tempered, the profile and geometry of the blade, handle choice and so on make a much larger difference. With that said here are some knives to look at: Tojiro DP 240mm Gyuto: The basic, cheap option, very good value for the money, western style handle. It's thicker than I would like which impedes it's cutting performance but you need to spend a lot more to see definitively better results. Tanaka Ginsan Gyuto 240mm: I've always liked Tanaka's stuff for how cheap and high quality it is. This one is stainless steel, Ginsan to be exact. I rather like this steel, it sharpens easily, gets very sharp and holds an edge pretty well. The blade will be a little rough around the edges and you might need to take some sandpaper to the spine to soften the edges, other than that it should be a really nice knife and a real step up from the Tojiro. Sukenari Ginsan Gyuto 240mm: This one is very nice, it's not quite as thin as the Tanaka above but it has a very nice taper into a thin tip that is great for finer work. It's neither very thin nor very thick, right in the middle and it feels fairly robust without sacrificing much cutting performance. Like all Sukenari knives it is superbly finished with a nicely rounded spine and choil, a very elegant knife without any fancy finish like damascus and such. Shiro Kamo AS Gyuto 240mm: I have a gyuto in R2 steel from the same smith and it's my favorite knife. Great cutting performance, feels very robust and sturdy unlike some of the super thin knives out there. This one is made of Aogami Super steel, it's very hard and holds an edge very well, it is a carbon steel so you will need to take some extra care to keep it dry and clean. The cladding is soft iron and will also need to be kept dry and clean. Honestly I feel that the Shiro Kamo knives should be selling for $100 more than they do right now, my Shiro Kamo R2 is easily better than knives I have spent over $350 on. Anyway, if you have any questions feel free to ask.
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Sep 6, 2015 05:10
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ThirstyBuck posted:Hey Knife Thread- What's your budget?
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Sep 6, 2015 16:55
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