|
Pham Nuwen posted:I still need to figure out what's going on with my carb... it's loving nuts, I think it's so huge due to some sort of emissions thing. Also if you have to replace the pitman arm (mine had a toast balljoint) be careful not to warp the splines it goes on when torquing it to the specified over 100 ft-lbs. Did that myself which gave the alignment shop guys a bit of a fit.  I didn't seen anything in the Haynes manual warning about this or how to avoid it so yeah. If you end up having to replace the oil pan gasket you will end up wanting to kill yourself. You have to remove the steering linkage and a frame crossmember to get the thing enough clearance to drop, and then you get to figure out how to rtv two surfaces at once since there's an oil baffle that goes between the pan and the block. On the whole everything else has been pretty easy and parts are fairly cheap. Brake and clutch cylinders were a breeze. Pham Nuwen posted:actually since we're having tirechat right now, what tires are you running on yours? Mine has 3 5-year-old Kumhos and one tire with studs in it. I'm thinking I should get a new set of the cheapest acceptable tires on there. Since the truck is my bitch vehicle it's going to get a raspberry pi and a capacitor bank in place of the battery in the nearish future.
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 21:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 16:15 |
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Since the truck is my bitch vehicle it's going to get a raspberry pi and a capacitor bank in place of the battery in the nearish future. Thanks for the rest of the info, and please make a thread about this or something when you do it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Since the truck is my bitch vehicle it's going to get a raspberry pi and a capacitor bank in place of the battery in the nearish future. Dammit, that's what I should have done with that 200lb of 1F stiffening caps I ended up getting rid of.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 21:34
|
|
|
Here's the vid on the capacitor thing that got me interested in it by the way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3x_kYq3mHM ed: in case it isn't clear the raspberry pi is for other stuff like gps, mileage tracking, music, and whatever other random poo poo I can think of.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 21:54
|
|
|
Is anyone here or has anyone here been involved in auto damage appraisal? I've been in transportation/logistics claims for 10 years and I'm getting burned out with it. I really enjoy cars and already know a lot about repair/parts. I'm considering getting my license and making a career switch. Any words of wisdom on it? Or is this a dumb idea I should run away from immediately? It seems like interesting work and I'd really enjoy the "getting out of the office" aspect that has driven me nuts for years. Field work sounds awesome to me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 23:03
|
|
|
What's a good method of anchoring something to sheet metal? Particularly, something that had previously been attached by anchors in the sheet metal? Working on a mustang that had window louvers but the anchors that are still there are stripped and the rest are missing. Is there a good anchor for this purpose?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2015 23:35
|
|
|
Speednut?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 00:05
|
|
|
My new shocks for the back of my truck came with metal sleeves that I guess go in the bushings. Is it alright to grease the inside of the bushing to press them in?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 00:06
|
|
|
SlayVus posted:Anything I should do to figure out what caused this break? I've already ordered a replacement part, but I don't want it to break in me because the one I bought was the only one I could find. Looks like a 91-98 Jeep 4.0L and you should just junkyard the bracket, it'll cost you like ten bucks and they are everywhere. Also, you are missing the other half of the bracket (it's a stamped steel piece that goes on the front and holds down with a handful of nuts and the two bolts through the alternator) which is why you are breaking brackets and likely bolts in the future. You have bolts instead of studbolts in the two positions that go through the timing cover and block into the bracket that broke, as well, you'll need those. You can grab all of this in about 15-45 minutes at the junkyard depending on your skill level.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 00:40
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Speednut? I don't think those will work without drilling/cutting the backside of the panel, which I want to avoid if possible. I'm picturing something like a helicoil or a threaded insert that I can drill into the surface. If I go hacking things up I'll just use machine screws and nuts
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 01:17
|
|
|
kastein posted:Looks like a 91-98 Jeep 4.0L and you should just junkyard the bracket, it'll cost you like ten bucks and they are everywhere. Also, you are missing the other half of the bracket (it's a stamped steel piece that goes on the front and holds down with a handful of nuts and the two bolts through the alternator) which is why you are breaking brackets and likely bolts in the future. You have bolts instead of studbolts in the two positions that go through the timing cover and block into the bracket that broke, as well, you'll need those. Only problem with this is that I'm looking at a 2 hour round trip for this. Now is the missing piece you're talking about supposed to like a front bracket. That fits here? 
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 02:01
|
|
|
So I got a weird one 66 Mustang. I was under the dash messing around with fuses and feeling around for some wiring and after I finished my brakes don't work at all, pedal just goes straight to the floor. After i pumped the pedal a bit I looked under the dash and saw that there was a clearish fluid leaking down the steering column where it meets the firewall(?) in the interior. What the hell did I do?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 02:18
|
|
|
Sounds like you blew out the seal on the master cylinder, get a rebuild kit if you feel comfortable with that or just a whole new cylinder if you don't. Obviously do not drive the car until you've done this.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 02:23
|
|
|
You might've knocked a fluid line loose. But yeah that's brake fluid and it's pretty unpleasant stuff so I'd keep it clear of any plastic or painted surfaces and figure out specifically if the MC is shot or if it's a loose/leaking hose.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Which 110v HF welder was the only not-poo poo one for auto body use again? I can't find the posts about them. I just need to do some replacement body panels on the bus, and I'll be learning at the same time. The HF mig is only AC and flux core only. It has awful heat control. You really need a welder with DC and gas. Check out craigslist or spend about 350 (I got my Hobart for 350 - gas regulator, face shield, cart and a few accessories) and about 150-200 on a bottle. I know SiF has a chineseium real gear that works good too. But you need gas to make good repairs.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 02:56
|
|
|
SlayVus posted:Only problem with this is that I'm looking at a 2 hour round trip for this. It looks like this, including the bolts and aluminum bracket, not sure this is the right year but it is the right idea:  The left side of the pic is the bottom of the bracket. The lack of a steel front plate is making the alternator cant sideways under belt load, this resulted in the bolts breaking and the alt falling out of Sandbagger's MJ twice because some chucklefuck mechanic/PO thought it was too annoying to put back in. In your case it appears to be breaking the bracket instead. Easy fix with junkyard parts, confirm the year and I can give you a range of donors to grab one from at the JY, then show up at the sellers house (assuming you are buying it) and install it in his driveway and drive the thing home.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 03:51
|
|
|
Godholio posted:You might've knocked a fluid line loose. But yeah that's brake fluid and it's pretty unpleasant stuff so I'd keep it clear of any plastic or painted surfaces and figure out specifically if the MC is shot or if it's a loose/leaking hose. Enourmo posted:Sounds like you blew out the seal on the master cylinder, get a rebuild kit if you feel comfortable with that or just a whole new cylinder if you don't. drat thanks guys. edit: well I think I found what my dumb rear end punctured.  ]
SD-455 fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Aug 15, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 04:04
|
|
|
martinlutherbling posted:Looking at getting some summer tires (for the spring). Does anybody have experience with Sumitomo HTR Z III's? They're some of the cheapest on Tire Rack but have tons of positive reviews with almost no negative feedback. I know tires aren't something you want to cheap out on it but it seems like these are just a legit good value. Car is an 05 92x Aero if that makes a difference. They've been my go to summer tire for the last couple years, both my Baja and Veloster are currently running them. I've really liked them and you can't beat them for price/performance ratio. They're pretty decent in the rain, fun at autoX, comfy for daily driving. Overall great tire for the price, not the best tire ever obviously, but drat good.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 05:13
|
|
|
SD-455 posted:drat thanks guys. If that boot had fluid in it, your master cylinder was already failing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 05:33
|
|
|
Wally Joyner posted:I have a better idea: This was it. gently caress yes.  Adding this bit of space fixed everything. I took the dogs out with me once I was confident I could make it back safe so here is a lovely phone picture.  The yellow one generally looks worried. stone soup fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Aug 15, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 07:04
|
|
|
Wally Joyner posted:This was it. gently caress yes. Hell yes! We need an AMC thread.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 07:19
|
|
|
Stupid question... and it's fague. I have $15,000 to spend and I'm looking for the best vehicle to buy, used or new for a family of 5. Preferably not a mini van.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 07:39
|
|
|
KING BONG posted:Stupid question... and it's fague. I have $15,000 to spend and I'm looking for the best vehicle to buy, used or new for a family of 5. Preferably not a mini van. Probably a Mazda CX-5 or 7 but with a family of five you really need to be considering a minivan.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 08:22
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Changing to a colder plug won't hurt your engine; the only risk is fouling (and/or wasting your money if it doesn't help the issue). What part number is your plug, 12620540? 12625058? Either way, if it's 12620540, you can try 12647827 (for Ecotec Gen 2 2.0L T/C LTG) and if it's 12625058, you can try 12642791 (for HFV6 Gen 1). The gaps will be the same. Yeah, I'm well aware (actually, thanks to you) that NGK makes most of AC Delco plugs. I did have some serious pinging with the first set of NGK plugs I put in it, but they were the V-power instead of the recommended iridiums.It currently has ACDelco 41-105s, whatever that translates to with NGK. It's an Ecotec L61 2.2, not the boosted 2.0. It doesn't look like 41-105 cross references with any of those part numbers. There was never a V6 available in my car. It sounds like pre-ignition to me, I have a tendency to use spark knock and pre-ignition interchangeably - definite audible pinging at lower RPMs (below 3000), and I can feel a pretty severe loss of power at the same time. The little bit of viewing I've done via Torque shows timing getting severely retarded at the same time, but I've never done any logging on it. For what it's worth, I ran a tank of premium (93) through it today. No audible pinging, but mileage will be a wash since I was driving it pretty hard most of the day (we were severely understaffed at work today). Never felt a loss of power, so I don't think it ever pulled timing. I'd have to actually get off my rear end and do some data logging to be sure. It rarely gets below 40F here even in January, so I don't think a colder plug will hurt. Of course, with only about 15k on the plugs, I'd rather not drop more cash on another set unless I need to. Honestly, I get the feeling that the original owner just never stomped on it, and that it may have a lot of carbon buildup. I do know if I shift according to the upshift indicator, I get a P0420 (catalytic converter be hosed) code, whereas when I actually shift where it feels like I'm actually getting reasonable power, that code goes away (and the MPG goes up significantly - the stupid thing wants me out of 1st before 2000 rpm). P0420 appeared once a bit over 2 years ago, and only when I was shifting by the upshift light. If it used an actual bulb I'd remove it, but it's an LED soldered to the cluster, and the cluster can't be disassembled without snapping off the needles.  I'll probably put some electrical tape over it eventually.Lord of Garbagemen posted:Might not be a saturn issue, but could be your knock sensor. My subies all have trash knock sensors to begin with and most of the time that the first place i look to a pingin/ mpg issue. It's audible spark knock/pinging that I can hear inside the car if the windows are open, so I really don't think it's the knock sensor. Unless it's saying "oh hey mr PCM, everything is all dandy, advance the spark and give her all she's got!". randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Aug 15, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 11:28
|
|
|
Yeah, I don't remember what the AC Delco numbers are but I know what spark plugs go in the engine you've got and I'm telling you what spark plugs you can use to replace them that are one heat range colder. I know you don't have the LTG but I know the plug designs so if you have 12620540, get 12647837 and if you have 12625058, get 12642791 if you're wanting a step colder. I mean, technically, there's differences other than the heat range but they're improvements so you're fine. So anyway, given that 1. The knocking/pinging occurs at low RPMs 2. Using a higher octane fuel eliminated the problem I'd say you have knock and not pre-ignition. Knocking is auto-ignition of fuel due to compression, whereas pre-ignition is ignition of fuel from a hot spot in the cylinder (whether spark plug or elsewhere). They have very different pressure traces. A higher octane fuel will, of course, help prevent auto-ignition due to compression (knock) but will do nothing to help against pre-ignition. Generally, PI will severely damage your engine and given that your car is still running, that's another reason I don't think it's PI. Also, if your plugs have carbon buildup that's causing them to misfire, you'll get P030X codes for misfires, not the P0420. See what happens after you fix the thermostat  You don't want to change the plugs anyway and it's not as if it's too much work to do plugs separately.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 13:13
|
|
|
KING BONG posted:Stupid question... and it's fague. I have $15,000 to spend and I'm looking for the best vehicle to buy, used or new for a family of 5. Preferably not a mini van. There's a thread for you: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&pagenumber=1&perpage=40 But, you should get a minivan.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 14:34
|
|
|
KING BONG posted:Stupid question... and it's fague. I have $15,000 to spend and I'm looking for the best vehicle to buy, used or new for a family of 5. Preferably not a mini van. Sorry man. Mini van time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 15:17
|
|
|
you can fit ten people in full gear in the back of an M54A2 if you get the optional dual row bench seats, along with two in the cab. You know what must be done.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 15:23
|
|
|
The minivan is pretty much the perfect vehicle. I don't know why people are so opposed.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 15:53
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:The minivan is pretty much the perfect vehicle. I don't know why people are so opposed. A minivan means you are tied to your family while an SUV means you can go anywhere! (you will drive both to Costco)
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 16:08
|
|
|
KING BONG posted:Stupid question... and it's fague. I have $15,000 to spend and I'm looking for the best vehicle to buy, used or new for a family of 5. Preferably not a mini van. It's basically a minivan but we weren't calling them minivans yet...  You don't want some drat Honda Odyssey or whateverthefuck, that's fine. Your penance is to drive this with a 65hp engine. Get a nice one and everyone will think it's cool. Get a ratty one and hey, you'll never get asked to pick up the neighbor kids because it would look too much like an abduction.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 16:10
|
|
|
Uthor posted:A minivan means you are tied to your family while an SUV means you can go anywhere! I drove my Astro plenty of places that people were scared to take their Explorers. My friend had a 4wd GMC Safari that went EVERYWHERE. Embrace the minivan.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 16:11
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:It's basically a minivan but we weren't calling them minivans yet... Also because nobody wants to put their kids in that death trap.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 16:25
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Also because nobody wants to put their kids in that death trap. Hey man, he never specified that safety matters, just that he doesn't want a minivan!
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 16:28
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:If that boot had fluid in it, your master cylinder was already failing. Do i need to replace the boot too or just the master cylinder?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 17:22
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Also because nobody wants to put their kids in that death trap. Hey, the kids will be just fine, protected by the engine from the rear and the parental crumple zone in the front.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 17:44
|
|
|
SD-455 posted:Do i need to replace the boot too or just the master cylinder? Usually the master cylinder (or kit, if you're going to rebuild that one) will come with a new boot. You don't need to change it, but if the old one is torn then you might as well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 18:46
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Hey man, he never specified that safety matters, just that he doesn't want a minivan! Then he should buy three Miatas!
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 18:47
|
|
|
Minivans used to be garbage when your only engine options were horrible 1980s-designed 4-cylinders that could barely push a mower out of its own way or iron tank V6s that barely made more power. They still have the stigma of giving up on your hopes and dreams, but they're worlds better than they used to be.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 19:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 16:15 |
|
|
You could also get a shortbus and put monster truck tires on it. Or a buick roadmaster, if you want everyone behind you to honk when your kids reach their teens and realize they can flip off their captive audience while riding in the back.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2015 19:56
|
|