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I'm pretty sure at this point, HP5 should only be shot at 1600. Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
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Aug 15, 2015 23:10
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Shot roll one of two today on the Hasselblad. Hope my metering was somewhat correct. Unloading/Loading film in this thing shouldn't have been as nerve wracking as it was. I'm guessing you just get used to it.
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Aug 16, 2015 05:50
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 img097 by Benjamin Gibb, on Flickr
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Aug 16, 2015 06:24
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Has anyone any advice for stand development or links to decent guides on it? I was going to try it tonight after getting some rodinal equivalent stuff but I got lazy. also film changing bags are a pain in the rear end to use compared to just fumbling around in a dark room
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Aug 17, 2015 00:13
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crap nerd posted:Has anyone any advice for stand development or links to decent guides on it? I was going to try it tonight after getting some rodinal equivalent stuff but I got lazy. You could do a few inversions at the half-hour mark to further develop the highlights, if you really wanted.
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Aug 17, 2015 01:20
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Stand development really is as ridiculously simple as it sounds. It makes scanning more complicated because you have more grain and really flat negs, but the developing part really is that easy. I do agitate at the 30 minute mark, though. Mostly because I'm worried about having uneven development
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Aug 17, 2015 02:05
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crap nerd posted:Has anyone any advice for stand development or links to decent guides on it? I was going to try it tonight after getting some rodinal equivalent stuff but I got lazy. 1:119 mix of hc110 to water at around 20 degrees celsius, 10 initial inversions. let it sit for an hour, inverting once at the 30 min mark. boom. you've developed some negs
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Aug 17, 2015 03:44
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I do 1:100 rodinal:water, agitate for the first 30 seconds, wait 30 minutes, agitate 5x, then dump it out after an hour, rinse with water, ilford rapid fixer, then hypoclear, then rinse, hang, and then i throw it all away because my pictures are bad and i haven't looked at anything i've done in months
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Aug 17, 2015 05:10
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Thanks! If you wanted to push the film slightly would you just do more agitations or use a slightly higher concentration or something?rohan posted:Mix a 1:100 solution of Rodinal and water, put your film in, agitate for the first minute, then go away and drink beers for an hour. Come back and fix as normal. A water stop bath is more than enough. how many beers should i drink for best results, tia
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Aug 17, 2015 12:54
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crap nerd posted:Thanks! If you wanted to push the film slightly would you just do more agitations or use a slightly higher concentration or something? nope. the magic of stand development is that you dont really have to give a poo poo and you'll get good results anyway.
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Aug 17, 2015 13:56
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Agitate every 15 minutes or so for upwards 2 stops of push. More than that and you should probably increase the time, but on the other hand it's probably better to dev normally for that much push. Also keep in mind that stand dev will often affect local contrast and you risk getting an "overdone HDR" look if you have strong contrasts.
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Aug 17, 2015 14:11
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Been a while since I got the toy out. Here da gifs: https://imgur.com/a/APJB2  Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
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Aug 18, 2015 05:13
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A lot of folks don't do extra agitation and instead just add 30 mins of dev for each stop pushed, with mild agitation at the beginning of each extra 30 min period.
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Aug 18, 2015 16:48
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So, I recently acquired a Zeiss Ikon with the 2/50 Planar and I love it. I've really come to enjoy rangefinders with my GF670, but I'm a bit at a loss for what to get for a more portrait length lens. Is the Voigtlander Apo-Lanthar a good choice, or should I splurge on the Zeiss 4/85? Any others to consider, new or vintage? E: About $1k max budget, but prefer <$600.
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Aug 18, 2015 23:30
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JSW2 posted:So, I recently acquired a Zeiss Ikon with the 2/50 Planar and I love it. I've really come to enjoy rangefinders with my GF670, but I'm a bit at a loss for what to get for a more portrait length lens. Is the Voigtlander Apo-Lanthar a good choice, or should I splurge on the Zeiss 4/85? Any others to consider, new or vintage? I would get something fast. The Voightlander 75mm Heliar is f/1.8 and just slightly more than $600. You could also get something in LTM and adapt it if you want cheaper, the Jupiter 9 is a good deal.
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Aug 19, 2015 02:55
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Pukestain Pal posted:Been a while since I got the toy out. This owns.
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Aug 19, 2015 03:59
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGPakl57PbI&hd=1
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Aug 19, 2015 04:13
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It's a fantastic video. I wish I could play the copy I have on VHF while I'm developing the film.
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Aug 19, 2015 04:18
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I found a Canonet QL 17 at a garagesale for $5, and it's now my favorite lens on any camera I have, modern or vintage. The electricals don't work at all (it works full manual but not in shutter priority) and sometimes at 1/250 the shutter sticks open, ruining the frame. I took it to my local camera store for a CLA, but they quoted "a couple months and close to $200" and said honestly they didn't think it was worth fixing. I might try to get a second opinion from an internet spot like KEH, but maybe I'll just use it as-is until it breaks.  img711
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Aug 20, 2015 02:41
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Tell me why I shouldn't buy this. Pentax is having a 20% off sale on used Pentax film gear today. https://www.keh.com/243721/pentax-85mm-f-1-9-super-takumar-m42-screw-mount-manual-focus-lens-58
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Aug 20, 2015 13:00
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Pukestain Pal posted:Tell me why I shouldn't buy this. Pentax is having a 20% off sale on used Pentax film gear today. I just bought a bunch of Pentax stuff from keh! Do they price match? Dren fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Aug 20, 2015 |
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Aug 20, 2015 14:39
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Dren posted:I just bought a bunch of Pentax stuff from keh! Do they price match? You can always ask
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Aug 20, 2015 15:12
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 Adam by Glenn Nielson, on Flickr Portra 400 good. I am not.
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Aug 24, 2015 00:31
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Still on my "Push HP5+ to 1600 or death" kick. Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
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Aug 24, 2015 00:41
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someone dropped off a box at work to be recycled. in that box was a bunch of out-of-date, but still in the package, camera batteries, and a Super FilmShield lead-lined bag containing nine rolls of 35mm Scotch Chrome 1000. 
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Aug 25, 2015 01:49
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drat film is all bowed... Not curled in the direction of the roll, but gently bowed the whole length of the strip. I cut it up and stuck it in a sleeve between 2 books under my heaviest toolbox; after 12 hours it's a little better. Do I need to dry it in a higher humidity environment?
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Aug 26, 2015 15:04
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I attach a film clip at the end to weigh the strip down while drying and it usually turns out fine.
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Aug 26, 2015 15:14
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Chill Callahan posted:I attach a film clip at the end to weigh the strip down while drying and it usually turns out fine. Yup. Usually I attach 2 at the bottom
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Aug 26, 2015 15:58
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You guys must have magic air because my film bows down the entire length even with weighted clips. Color film is especially bad because of the multiple layers. I usually wait for it to dry enough that I can handle it without damaging the emulsion and I rewind it back onto the development reel backwards, against the curl. Leave it like that overnight and it helps a lot.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:13
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BANME.sh posted:You guys must have magic air because my film bows down the entire length even with weighted clips. Color film is especially bad because of the multiple layers. I've never had a problem. Maybe your air just sucks.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:01
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Pukestain Pal posted:Maybe your air just sucks. It does. Right now the weather forecast here is just the word "smoke".
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Aug 26, 2015 18:09
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Some of you might be talking about curl where the film tries to roll up again like it was on the spool. This is what I'm dealing with: (not my image) The film doesn't try to roll up or anything, it just curls slightly in a way that makes scanning lovely.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:16
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Pham Nuwen posted:Some of you might be talking about curl where the film tries to roll up again like it was on the spool. This is what I'm dealing with: yeah, that's what I was talking about. Rolling it back in the reel against the curl gets rid of this bowing.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:20
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BANME.sh posted:yeah, that's what I was talking about. Rolling it back in the reel against the curl gets rid of this bowing. poo poo, now I wish I hadn't cut it already. I'll do it next time.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:26
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How big are files from 35mm film scans usually? I guess it largely depends on the resolution you choose, but is there a rough estimate I can use? I'm asking because I'll be scanning a lot of film with a mate and I'd like to know how much disk space I'll need to bring along. I'm sorry if these are stupid questions, but I can't seem to find good stuff at other places.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:33
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Entirely depends on resolution and file format. That's like asking how big a digital picture file is.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:48
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You'll only be able to get about 2400 dpi scans out of a consumer flatbed, and a 48 bit color tif will be about 50-60 MB each.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:52
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Merci beaucoup!
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Aug 26, 2015 22:31
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My Minox 35 GT's shutter apparently has only been firing about a quarter of the time  on the upside, the digital darkroom that I will be able to use at school shortly has a Flextight X5 and a pair of Coolscan 9000s.
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Aug 27, 2015 04:57
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| # ? May 11, 2024 20:54 |
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Has anybody had any issues with Citizens Photo scans? I ordered the high res scans and they look like they took low res files and saved them in a higher resolution.
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Aug 28, 2015 00:39
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