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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I've just read up on it, apparently it's compatible with everything and you can also get it with some anti acid/corrosion additives, which considering my history with That's the way I read it. I read a research paper on oil compatability, and the run down was Esther Oil is less system specific and is friendly to systems with questionable health or gas mixtures. And considering its been 3+ weeks since I did the fill and still have cold AC, I'm gonna say its worth it if you don't know how clean the system is or are worried.
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Aug 21, 2015 20:36
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BLACK DEATH 
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Last week I filled my receiver/drier with the correct amount of PAG oil (I didn't have my manifold gauges with me at the time), vaccd the system and found it leaking slowly. I haven't touched it since (been waiting for UV dye to turn up, it just did). Is the drier now garbage? They aren't cheap. But neither is a compressor, so.... have I just answered my own question, or am I being over cautious? Motronic posted:Dryers are one-time use components that take any residual moisture out of a system after it has been opened and then stay in line doing nothing (because you can't taken them out without opening the system). Every time you open the system the dryer should be replaced.
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Aug 21, 2015 20:39
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Well, yeah, but what is the deal if you vac the system and it doesn't hold vacuum? Replace the drier with each vacuum attempt?CommieGIR posted:I'm gonna say its worth it if you don't know how clean the system is or are worried. Good to know. I've just bought a bottle of Supercool branded ester oil which looks like it's from the US (as usual, good poo poo like this is almost impossible to find in the UK). You can get with with UV dye added, wish I'd done that before spending £££ on some dye sachets! Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 21:34
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If you have a known leak, first fix all the leaks, then replace the drier. I am not sure why you would keep replacing the drier after each leak fix attempt.
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Aug 21, 2015 21:38
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Holy poo poo why did I not think of this. My dumb move was to replace the drier before checking for leaks. Why the hell didn't I just check for leaks using the old drier. On the plus side, I can put this drier in my other black-deathed car, and use it to leak test (pretty sure I can't vacuum a system with a new components but an old drier full of black death).
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Aug 21, 2015 21:46
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BrokenKnucklez posted:If you have a known leak, first fix all the leaks, then replace the drier. I only worry about it if the system is open for an extended period, and a little leak doesn't count as "open". As long as it's not just air in the system for more than a few minutes, it should be OK, especially if you vac thoroughly. Worked for me so far.
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Aug 21, 2015 22:12
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Well, I mean, it's been full of air for about a week, but that air got in through (I presume) a tiny opening (it takes over an hour for the vacuum to disappear), and it's most likely the same air with the same moisture.
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Aug 21, 2015 22:15
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Well, I mean, it's been full of air for about a week, but that air got in through (I presume) a tiny opening (it takes over an hour for the vacuum to disappear), and it's most likely the same air with the same moisture. Ah, yeah, if you pulled vac and then air leaked *in*, that's not ideal. I was thinking more along the lines of refrigerant leaked out - then you still have refrigerant inside rather than air, just at 1 ATM.
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Aug 21, 2015 22:36
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Darchangel posted:I only worry about it if the system is open for an extended period, and a little leak doesn't count as "open". As long as it's not just air in the system for more than a few minutes, it should be OK, especially if you vac thoroughly. Worked for me so far. I was under the presumption that he had the system open replacing/fixing poo poo. A few minutes - yeah no problem.
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Aug 21, 2015 22:37
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Well, it's had 1atm of air in it for a while, and there is a leak somewhere to the atmosphere. So the desiccant has certainly absorbed some moisture, the question is, is it still good 
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Aug 21, 2015 22:39
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Well, it's had 1atm of air in it for a while, and there is a leak somewhere to the atmosphere. So the desiccant has certainly absorbed some moisture, the question is, is it still good For the cost of another dryer after you fix all of the leaks, is risking your entire system to acidification worth it?
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Aug 21, 2015 22:44
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Well, it's had 1atm of air in it for a while, and there is a leak somewhere to the atmosphere. So the desiccant has certainly absorbed some moisture, the question is, is it still good I would probably pull a good hard vac for 1/2 hour once the leak is fixed, and run it, myself, especially of the drier is pricey or difficult to change out. In theory, that should boil off a lot of the moisture. You haven't had a lot of air moving in or out of the system once it equalized. e: ^^^^Then again, there is that.
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Aug 21, 2015 22:45
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If the drier is a pain to replace, expensive, or I forgot to buy one 'cause I'm an idiot, I'll do without and just vac for a long time. Otherwise it gets replaced... and the O-rings. Don't forget those, or you'll be chasing a leak. Ignore the HF HNBR O-ring kit, they have so much mold flash on them they seal worse than the originals.
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Aug 21, 2015 23:19
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Drier is less than a 2 minute swap and costs around $50, so.....
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Aug 21, 2015 23:45
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Drop the 50 and replace it after leak checking before your final fill. There's really no good reason to skimp.
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Aug 22, 2015 07:01
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New problem, different car. The Jetta TDI is having issues, no leaks but the low side is slightly high and the high side is low. Research is showing the RCV or Compressor. But since the RCV is IN the compressor, it makes more sense to replace the entire compressor, right?
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Aug 22, 2015 18:09
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CommieGIR posted:So, after some Google research, the concensus is the Compressor is either bad or the Compressor RCV is bad.
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Aug 22, 2015 22:49
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I am happy to report: the compressor rebuilt took! New Refrigerant Control Valve and new seals and the pressures are corrected and air is ice cold!
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Aug 27, 2015 03:22
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Well. It looks like I have R12 adapter fittings and 60oz of e: I know I don't need 60oz for the car it's going in, but a 6pack of 10oz cans was the cheapest stuff on amazon that I could find an MSDS for, so I went for it. I guess I probably should have ordered some of the proper lubricant oil as well. Pretty sure it just needs a recharge, last time I checked it still had a bit of pressure left in the lines, and would sometimes fast cycle, just not enough to actually work. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 20:21
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Larrymer posted:Full disclosure: I'm dumb when it comes to A/C. BrokenKnucklez posted:Blend doors. The Silverado/suburban family is notorious on eating blend door motors. Replaced the blend door actuator for the temp knob which is fairly easy to get to. One of the 3 is a total bitch it looks like and the dash has to come out. Seemed to fix the problem.  Mine didn't have a cracked gear (common failure) but it was gummed up with a bunch of grease or some poo poo. Dunno, didn't try to clean and reuse but I kept it as a spare.
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Sep 3, 2015 20:26
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Good deal, those blend door motors are on tons of gm poo poo, but they seem to poo poo them selves badly on the 01-06 suburbans/silverados
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Sep 3, 2015 22:46
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kastein posted:e: I know I don't need 60oz for the car it's going in, but a 6pack of 10oz cans was the cheapest stuff on amazon that I could find an MSDS for, so I went for it. I guess I probably should have ordered some of the proper lubricant oil as well. Pretty sure it just needs a recharge, last time I checked it still had a bit of pressure left in the lines, and would sometimes fast cycle, just not enough to actually work. Esther Oil seems to be the best lubricant for a mixed oil system like R12 might have. But I suspect you are going to vacuum down the system before you charge?
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Sep 3, 2015 23:03
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Yeah, IIRC Ester oil is the right kind. I'm pretty sure Esther oil is some old testament poo poo  It's getting vacuumed down, yeah, and I may toss a drier at it too while I'm in there, if it passes leak check. If not, it gets fixed and then gets a drier thrown in as well. e: turns out most R12 systems used mineral oil, and most R134a systems use PAG (Poly Alkylene Glycol) oils. Ester oils work nicely as a go between because they are miscible in both mineral oil and R12, as well as compatible with R134a and I assume R152a. Since I know this system hasn't been messed with and will have no R12 left in it, ester it is. It sounds like mineral oil is NOT compatible with R152a though, so I should flush the system - Motronic, any input on that? I'll go read again in the meanwhile. e: NOPE ester oil is alrightish, but PAG oil and a flush is the best. Updating this to avoid confusion from others reading the thread. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 23:09
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kastein posted:Yeah, IIRC Ester oil is the right kind. I'm pretty sure Esther oil is some old testament poo poo Just wanted to chime in again that my R12 now R152 AC system still works great. Also, I had to recharge my Jetta's R134 system after I rebuilt the compressor, didn't want to spend $40 for a can of R134, so I put R152 in it. Its running even colder than it did before.
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Sep 3, 2015 23:14
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After re-reading the thread (specifically the end of page 4 and some of page 5 I found relevant info) it seems best to flush the system and put either PAG 46 or PAG 100 (depending on compressor oil viscosity spec) in. So I'll plan on doing that. Ester oil may be acceptable but if I have to open the system either way I'm going to do it properly with PAG oil and a flush. Time to order a receiver/drier, flush kit, and some PAG oil I guess! if I can't find the bottle I have around anyways.
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Sep 3, 2015 23:32
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AC flush is the nastiest poo poo I have EVER worked with and I have a weird love affair with solvents. Be careful, well-ventilated space, eye protection, blah blah blah.
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Sep 3, 2015 23:38
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I wash my hands with acetone sometimes so we shall see. It better be good poo poo. e:  the MSDS doesn't even list what's actually in it, they just swear it won't really hurt you. Four Seasons says theirs has 1,1,1,2,3,4,4,5,5,5-decafluoropentane, dimethyl carbonate, pentafluorobutane, and trans-dichloroethylene in it, which all have a very concerning and promising level of halogenation to them. I'm intrigued. This poo poo better taste good 
kastein fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 23:40
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You could do what I've had to do and just replace every freaking component in there. That way you don't need to worry about previous oils!
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Sep 4, 2015 01:40
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kastein posted:I wash my hands with acetone sometimes so we shall see. It better be good poo poo. Acetone ain't *poo poo* compared to AC flush. kastein posted:they just swear it won't really hurt you I don't know what brand mine is, but it said precisely the opposite of that. Let me know if you want me to take a pic of the can next time I roll out to the shop (possibly this evening). kastein posted:This poo poo better taste good Oh you'll be finding out, even if you don't want to. I really should have worn a respirator... RIP Paul Walker fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 02:11
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kastein posted:After re-reading the thread (specifically the end of page 4 and some of page 5 I found relevant info) it seems best to flush the system and put either PAG 46 or PAG 100 (depending on compressor oil viscosity spec) in. So I'll plan on doing that. Esther works just fine with r152a. My friend's truck has two seasons with that combo in Phoenix (so those are long seasons) and it still cools great. My old Volvo wagon and my daily e28 have Esther oil, but one is r134 and the other r152a. Also, doesn't pag react with mineral oil and become gooey?
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Sep 4, 2015 04:46
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So a few weeks back I rebuilt my AC compressor and squirted 80ml of PAG46 oil in there before putting it back in the car. Vacced the system and it didn't hold for more than 5 minutes. Now it's a few weeks later and I pulled the same compressor to drain the oil out and put ester oil in instead (and leave whatever small film of PAG is still there). The PAG oil was clear when I put it in and was bright freaking neon green when it came out. Why?
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Sep 6, 2015 18:47
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Old oil contamination possibly.
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Sep 6, 2015 18:50
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I thought about that, but I stripped and cleaned each component with brake cleaner, then with isopropyl alcohol, then dipped them in PAG46 before assembly. Could this be from moisture? The system was not open, but the vacuum I pulled did bleed back to atmospheric pressure, so the system was full of air (but I couldn't see it easily cycling fresh air and moisture in and out through such a small leak) edit: my current plan is to dump 80ccs of ester oil into the compressor, fit my new condenser, vac the system, fix the leaks, replace the drier, squirt 60ccs of ester oil into the drier, charge and use the system. Is there an easy method of leak detection which doesn't involve wasting a can of refrigerant? Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Sep 6, 2015 |
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Sep 6, 2015 18:56
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Was it oil that had UV dye in it? May also have had some dye injected previously.
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Sep 7, 2015 03:18
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No, thats the strange thing. It looks exactly like UV dye but I never put any in.
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Sep 7, 2015 10:56
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I'm trying to convert m 1993 Toyota Pickup (4 cylinder) from non-working R12 to R152. There was no pressure in the system. I got a set of conversion fittings so I can connect my gauge set. The low side fitting fits fine, but I can't get any of the three pieces in the kit to fit over the existing high side fitting. If I proceed to vacuum down the system on the low side only, will this do any good? Alternately, what do I need to be able to connect my gauge set to the high side?
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Sep 10, 2015 21:18
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PBCrunch posted:If I proceed to vacuum down the system on the low side only, will this do any good? Alternately, what do I need to be able to connect my gauge set to the high side? Knowing the high side would help a lot more in diagnosing if its not cooling properly once you do fill it again. Go to Autozone/Orielly's/NAPA and see if they have a retrofit kit, it might have the adapter you are looking for.
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Sep 10, 2015 21:32
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I thought all R12 high side fittings were the same, especially on a 1993 vehicle (which was right near the end of the R12 era). Any set of conversion adapters should work. Most adapters require you to remove the schrader valve from the low-side fitting - the supplied low-side adapter should have one fitted. At least, that's how it's been with every one I've ever purchased.
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Sep 10, 2015 22:20
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If I'm replacing the entire A/C system because of a disintegrated compressor that flung a buncha poo poo throughout the A/C system, destroying everything, would I be able to re-use the hoses? I really don't want to use any of the individual components, but I'm confident that I can flush out the hoses well enough to get all those little metal bits out.
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Sep 30, 2015 22:49
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I thought all R12 high side fittings were the same, especially on a 1993 vehicle (which was right near the end of the R12 era). Any set of conversion adapters should work. No, they do vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer. The kit I got came with 6-8 different adapters of varying size and pitch. scuz posted:If I'm replacing the entire A/C system because of a disintegrated compressor that flung a buncha poo poo throughout the A/C system, destroying everything, would I be able to re-use the hoses? I really don't want to use any of the individual components, but I'm confident that I can flush out the hoses well enough to get all those little metal bits out. Yes. Just flush the gently caress out of them, and replace the drier.
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Sep 30, 2015 22:51
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