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Dumbest Linux joke I've ever made aside, that's about where I'm at with the Kia. But hey, I've already bought its replacement so now all I've got left to do is find someone dumb enough to buy it or find some poo poo tires to put on to get it to the junkyard. Pulled the back seat out of the Lexus, and welp. There's more water than I thought. About an inch in the left side seat well, and the seat is starting to mold down where I couldn't see it. Anybody got suggestions to clean/dry the seat? My go to is spray nine but that's not leather-safe.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:14
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Stripped out front suspension and steering rack ends, the 'crashed' side had a load of play in the track rods ball joint so that got replaced with parts form my donor along with the track rod end just in case. Did a ghetto alignment with a ruler on the old/new rod to get me to the shop for an alignment tomorrow morning. Greased the brake rotor faces while I was at it to hopefully stop some of the brake squealing. Bled the front suspension and pulled the (no longer pressurised  ) front nitrogen accumulators. Cleaned and prepped the suspension to receive my modified and recharged accumulators. These will hopefully stop the car from 'helping' me out over bumps by rapidly pumping hydraulic fluid in and out of the cylinder in a misguided attempt to damp the car (hydraulic fluid does not compress, so this results in a very jerky ride). Took a look at my Rays wheels and decided that they need a refurb. Looked at prices for 275/35R18 tyres online. Sighed.
Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Aug 19, 2015 |
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Aug 19, 2015 19:31
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Man, you're hard on poo poo. Tommychu posted:Dumbest Linux joke I've ever made aside, that's about where I'm at with the Kia. But hey, I've already bought its replacement so now all I've got left to do is find someone dumb enough to buy it or find some poo poo tires to put on to get it to the junkyard. I would say you're going to need an ozone generator once you source the water and dry it out.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:00
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Tommychu posted:Pulled the back seat out of the Lexus, and welp. There's more water than I thought. About an inch in the left side seat well, and the seat is starting to mold down where I couldn't see it. You have an SC400, right? Never heard of water getting into the back seats (trunk, yes! through the trunk lid seal if it's torn, this happens a lot). Do you have a sunroof? I believe the sunroof drain pipes run down that area, if the drains get blocked then it can cause issues. I've heard horror stories about hardcore rust in the roofs. I've never had a sunroof-equipped Soarer, so can't help you. If water is getting in through the door seals, it will pool in the front footwells and around the heater vents for the rear seats. In your situation I'd pull the rear seats, lower door trims, rear side trims, and see if there' s any evidence.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:34
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Filled the Clio with petrol and experimented with the slip angle of my tiny (155/65r13), cheap front tyres in the wet. More fun than you'd expect for a tiny french shitbox but not as much fun as doing the same during a heavy hailstorm last winter!
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Aug 19, 2015 21:48
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:You have an SC400, right? Never heard of water getting into the back seats (trunk, yes! through the trunk lid seal if it's torn, this happens a lot). Do you have a sunroof? I believe the sunroof drain pipes run down that area, if the drains get blocked then it can cause issues. I've heard horror stories about hardcore rust in the roofs. I've never had a sunroof-equipped Soarer, so can't help you. Yeah sunroof drain tubes are a prime suspect. I've already confirmed the rears are good up to the C-pillar (though they're apt to have popped off the sunroof or split somewhere in the pillar), but I can't find where the fronts end up- I sprayed a little water in the LF one and got drips from the A/C condensation drain? PO fuckery is pretty likely here since I'm seeing a lot of his footsteps when I take stuff apart (and the holes that I believe should have the tubes are empty, no plugs or bungs jut a stamped hole in the sheet metal). Headliner is coming out anyway, I can't avoid it. I gooped the external sunroof seal with a nice thick non-swelling O-ring lube and I'm leaving it closed until I can tear poo poo up. Current plan is to just try and limit leakage and keep it from building up until I get the pickup going, that way I can get invasive without compromising my ability to get to work. But that leaves my original question of the rear lower seat cushion, and what to do with it. It's out of the car, I set it foam-side down on the asphalt for a couple minutes until it stopped pouring water than moved it to the bathtub. Upon realizing what a terrible idea it was to have it indoors (spores and poo poo), I took it out and put it in the back of the Kia (black car gets hot, and the rust holes should give it enough drainage/ventilation) but from here I don't know how I should be going about getting the water/mold out. Just letting it sit could take days and will still leave lots of mold embedded in the foam.
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Aug 19, 2015 23:57
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For that kind of foam, I just leant it against the wall inside my garage with a good couple of towels underneath it. If you have a greenhouse, that works too. For mold/spores-n-poo poo, I guess an anti fungal spray? How much do these seat bases cost? In the UK you can get them for next to nothing as there is no demand for parts that don't often break. The interior/dash on these cars is easy to remove - I could probably strip the inside of one to bare metal in under 2 hours even if I'm being careful. Removing both seats first will save you loads of time in the end, and it's only four bolts each... Can't help you with the sunroof drains - it's the one thing I've never had to deal with. But yeah, removing the interior will help you out. Edit: I have the SC400 service manual in .pdf, if you need any bits from it, PM me. There's nothing about the sunroof drain tubes though.
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Aug 20, 2015 10:27
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Greased the brake rotor faces while I was at it to hopefully stop some of the brake squealing. Wait, what?
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Aug 20, 2015 18:27
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:For that kind of foam, I just leant it against the wall inside my garage with a good couple of towels underneath it. If you have a greenhouse, that works too. Lexus parts are invariably loving rape at the dealer, unless you can find the part number online and order at a Toyota dealer. And that doesn't always work, as some parts have a separate number for Canada and you can really only get the US numbers online. Unfortunately body and interior stuff is usually the latter. I've actually got a hardcopy SC400 FSM, Mr. PO bought it to get all the specs when he was trying to save the hosed diff. It doesn't show exactly where the tubes go either, just vaguely where they get routed into the pillars. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Aug 20, 2015 |
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Aug 20, 2015 19:37
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Darchangel posted:Wait, what? I was wondering if anyone actually reads half the stuff that people write in here. Tommychu posted:Lexus parts are invariably loving rape at the dealer, unless you can find the part number online and order at a Toyota dealer. And that doesn't always work, as some parts have a separate number for Canada and you can really only get the US numbers online. Unfortunately body and interior stuff is usually the latter. Ah yeah, sorry, I was talking about second hand, from breaker vehicles, junk yards, etc. Every Soarer I've ever seen in a yard still has it's rear seats in, it's sort of a 'just take it' kinda item. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Aug 20, 2015 |
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Aug 20, 2015 21:23
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Bought it. 2011 Mazda3s 2.5. ~54 miles on the odo, 6 speed manual. :2f2f: powdercoated wheels which I actually kind of like. It's pretty great for an econo-wagon so far.
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Aug 21, 2015 01:39
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I was wondering if anyone actually reads half the stuff that people write in here. I had to read it several times because I was sure I missed a word or something.
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Aug 21, 2015 01:43
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Check engine light popped on on the way to work. Great. Then the CEL started flashing and the car pretty much felt like a Mercedes 240 in terms of power (I got passed by a Fedex truck when I had it WOT), except not quite as smelly. Pulled codes. Misfires on #2 and #4, which made me think coil (they share the same one in a batch fire config). Unplugged the injectors for those cylinders so I could at least get back home without roasting the cat. Pulled codes again once I got home, more codes - thermostat, some kind of body code my scanner can't read, and open circuit to the two injectors I unplugged. Turns out AutoZone doesn't sell the individual coils, just the entire ignition cassette (for $80), so I went to the junkyard and snagged a cassette for $25. Swapped it in their parking lot in 5 minutes, cleared the codes, thermostat code came back a few miles later, body code came back (I suspect the body code is because half the OnStar poo poo is missing). Just finished doing the thermostat. It was nowhere near where it's supposed to be on the 2.2; it was where it would be if the engine were a 2.4 (which also uses a different housing, I think - but thankfully the same thermostat... at least, it fits in there, and it opens when it should). Which had me cussing up a storm, since I was under the car, on jackstands, with a printout of where the bolts should be and going "WHAT THE gently caress WHERE THE gently caress ARE THEY?!?". By the time I pulled up a 2.4 diagram and realized I was looking at some 2.4 parts on a 2.2 engine, I was cussing some more, as one of the bolts is a complete bitch to get at without a very short wobble. I have no wobble extensions.   Well, that's certainly seen better days... and certainly isn't the original either. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 02:12
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I unleashed the inner monster of my 911SC. Stock headers and...a couple feet of pipe. My poor head. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jq59G7wuEHw As much fun as it is, no way I'm keeping that muffler bypass on. Dave Inc. fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 02:32
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Dave Inc. posted:I unleashed the inner monster of my 911SC. no balls 
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Aug 21, 2015 03:21
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Terrible Robot posted:no balls Can't help it, if I ever take the car to work @6:30am I'm sure my neighbors will have a lynch mob waiting for me when I get home.
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Aug 21, 2015 12:20
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Dave Inc. posted:I unleashed the inner monster of my 911SC. gently caress me, that sounds awesome. Can't you put a bypass valve on it or something?
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Aug 21, 2015 13:09
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KozmoNaut posted:gently caress me, that sounds awesome. I think something like that is available, but this is just a $150 pipe I picked up for fun. I plan on swapping the headers soon for a 6-2 collector instead of a 6-2-1 collector so any nice exhaust would be different, I'll wait until then. Now, though, any muffler I buy better have a valved bypass because got drat that is fun.
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Aug 21, 2015 13:18
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Dave Inc. posted:Can't help it, if I ever take the car to work @6:30am I'm sure my neighbors will have a lynch mob waiting for me when I get home. See, the only problem I'd have is I wouldn't want to actually stop driving that by the time I got to work.
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Aug 21, 2015 17:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:See, the only problem I'd have is I wouldn't want to actually stop driving that by the time I got to work. Especially since that dumb old air-cooled motor is just getting to operating temp by the time I pull into the parking lot.
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Aug 21, 2015 17:47
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:The interior/dash on these cars is easy to remove - I could probably strip the inside of one to bare metal in under 2 hours even if I'm being careful. Removing both seats first will save you loads of time in the end, and it's only four bolts each... I would maybe try spraying with tons of Lysol, then spraying with a pressure washer to push the Lysol into the foam. Wait a LONG time to dry before plugging the electrics back in.
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Aug 21, 2015 18:03
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PBCrunch posted:They are so god drat heavy though. Yeah, the seats are heavy, but the cleverly-hinged doors make it a breeze to remove them. To make it easier, you can lower the active suspension to the ground to get a better angle to lift fro....oh wait. And yes, Lysol + pressure washer sounds like a plan. If it's just the rear seats then there's no electrics, if it's the fronts then good luck - I've always had to move the seats back and forth to access the bolts. Previa_fun posted:Bought it. Love these cars! Great colour too  . One of my friends just bought a 2011 Mazda6 and I can't fault it yet!
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Aug 21, 2015 23:49
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Changed the oil in the WJ. Also replaced the leaking pressure line. No more belt squeak on start up anymore. Now I just need to replace the tie rod that attaches to the pitman arm.
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Aug 23, 2015 03:03
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I installed a second auxiliary fan and replaced the aux fan switch on my 91 318. The E30 originally has two circuits for the front single front auxiliary fan, combined with a mechanical fan. My aux fan seized up, so I replaced it with a single speed fan hooked only up to the high speed circuit - which should turn on automatically when the car is very hot, or the AC is on. I removed the mechanical fan and installed an additional electric fan. The aux fan switch still appears to be non-functional, when I jump the pins the fans work fine - but when the car is hot the fans don't turn on automatically. The single fan on the high speed circuit turns on normally when the AC is on. Looks like I get to try to get another new thermoswitch. The car is way revvier without the mechanical fan, too. I noticed a big change in both my M20 and this M42 powered car.
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Aug 23, 2015 22:55
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Replaced my evaporator and TXV, old ones looked good, but I can't be 100% sure that they aren't secretly full of  . Considered changing the rest of the AC pipework, didn't bother in the end because  . Plugged the exposed holes in the replaced parts. Ordered a new receiver/drier (thanks, goons) and ocndenser. Sourced an AC compressor. Tracked down my non-working heater core to a bad solenoid on the vacuum valve (the only loving vacuum thing on the car and of course it's broken).Thank gently caress the heater core wasn't blocked - the hose ends are a massive pain to reach. Swapped the solenoid out and enjoyed full heat in the middle of summer.Found out that the original Toyota 'wood' centre console trim is actually hydro-dipped plastic. The tinted lacquer is peeling from the shifter surround, no idea where to find replacement lacquer.
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Aug 24, 2015 00:07
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So much painting today. One 2oz can of POR15 will do two coats on a solid axle and shackles with a bit left over for me to coat part of the inner fender. Then some industrial black gloss and everything looks simply amazing. It'll be nice putting on all of these clean parts later. Next I'll hang some springs, next day the axle, driveshaft and shocks, then brakes and steering link. Then the hood patches, hood and fenders, and free up the garage. It looks like there's a light at the end here.
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Aug 24, 2015 05:22
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Installed this: On this:  Resulting in this:  And this from dropping the muffler into my eye:  This car is silly. I believe I'm the first in the US to install this exhaust. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Aug 24, 2015 |
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Aug 24, 2015 23:43
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Yessssss, this is the sort of post we want to see in this thread. Where's the video? edit: content from me, was asked to move my ride from one end of the secure indoor parking lot in the centre of London (which I managed to snag for free for a week, wtf) to the other, as they were repainting the white lines between the spaces. So I drove it 50 feet or so. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 00:00
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Yessssss, this is the sort of post we want to see in this thread. Where's the video? Sorry I didn't get a video of the exhaust falling on my face. I'll try to get a video of exhaust sound some time soon, but I put it on after work today then iced my stupid eye. The exhaust has the silliest name as well: HKS Cool Style Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 00:27
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I spent awhile dealing with some bumpers on my 1975 Alfa Spider. In 1974, Spiders looked like this:  Then the feds hosed us by requiring "Ralph Nader Bumpers" and the 1975 model looked like this:  Those older bumpers are waaaay sexier, and the market knows this. Conversion kits with pre-75 bumpers and brackets (because the mount points changed from one bumper to the other) cost about $2,000. I found a '71 that was pretty trashed, but still had the rear bumper and most of the front bumper, for about $600. The front bumper consists of three pieces, the emblem and two wings. Sadly, the wings on the parts car were hosed and could not be saved. So I took a different tack. Here are some before pics of my front bumper:  Notice how far the fucker jutted out.  First, I pulled the two shocks from the bumper to collapse them. Forgot to get pics this part of the project, but here are images from a thread I used as a guide, that illustrate the process.  These are sealed shock absorbers filled with some kind of rubber paste. So I drilled a relief hole and collapsed them in a vice to pump out the goop. Then I drilled and tapped them, so I could secure them in the collapsed position with a bolt. Here's another pic from that thread to illustrate  This allows the front bumper to fit much closer to the body.  While the wings were hosed, the center emblem was still OK. The chrome is a bit pitted, and I may look into some way to refresh the chrome or maybe paint it, but for now, it still was better than big-black-rubber. So I cut a fat rear end notch in the '75 bumper to accommodate the emblem and fabbed up a simple bracket to attach the emblem to the under body.  The emblem was missing one of the cross-slats, so I cut some steel flat bar and rolled a piece of sheet aluminum around it to match (more or less) the other slats.  Then I attacked the rear  I don't have a great pic of my old rear bumper, but here's an example of the ugliness:  There, I ditched the shocks completely because they were rust-tastic. Instead, I used some 2" steel flat bar to attach to the mount points on the body, and then drilled/tapped some bolts to match up with the mount points on the old bumper. Once I got the bumper attached and balanced (which took a few tries), it looks like this:  Finally, the stainless tops of the parts car bumpers were in good shape, so I flattened them out, and then cut and rolled the edges to line up with the slight ridge on top of the '75 bumper.   These attach to the bumper with some self-tap screws that hide under the body once the bumper is in place. I may revisit these tops and replace them with some sheet aluminum cut/shaped to cover more of the bumper top to get a look that's closer to the '74 bumper.
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Aug 25, 2015 17:15
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Pretty nice bumper swap, good job. The parts '71 is getting turned into a rallycross car, right?
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Aug 25, 2015 18:01
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On Saturday, after freeing up two seized caliper sliders in a week, I replaced the front caliper carriers + slider pins and serviced the rears. No squeaking, pulling or terror under breaking! 
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Aug 25, 2015 18:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Pretty nice bumper swap, good job. Nah. I had no place to keep it, so once I got the bumpers and some other parts off, it's gone. Some PO cut the chassis stupidly to change a clutch, so it was hosed.
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Aug 25, 2015 20:45
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What the gently caress?!
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Aug 25, 2015 21:07
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Beatertruck got some lovin' today.  New 235/85 pizza cutters and junkyard stock wheels up front, new wheel bearing and tie rod end-holy gently caress every vehicle needs to use this style of bearing, it took me longer to mount the tires than to R&R that fucker including a bit of dicking around getting the old ABS wire christmas trees out. gently caress those balljoints though, they didn't look like fun at all so I'm going to pay somebody to gently caress with 'em- it needs an alignment anyway and whoever does that will have the right tooling. Fully aware that I'm now 'buys wheels on installments' guy (though the other way around, taking the fancy chrome rimzzz off and installing rusty stock stuff) but gently caress it, I'm exactly that sort of dirtbag (also 235/85s are pretty drat expensive and the rears weren't too bad so I might as well run them a bit) and it drives like a million bucks now, even on a quick and very lazy tape measure alignment, still-bad ball joints and sorta loose steering shaft. Now that it's reasonably safe to drive though, next up is definitely the knock sensors. The failsafe fuel/timing profile when it can't see those is loving raunchy. I'm getting 6MPG right now 
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 26, 2015 05:43
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Installed this: this is the best
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Aug 26, 2015 13:25
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Yet another car crammed full of wheels. Got the tyres taken off and the wheels sent for a refurb Had the car laser aligned. 
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Aug 26, 2015 13:42
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Put the new front springs on. I was stoked to find that I did in fact own silicone grease that was rubber safe for the bushings. It was a nice feeling to be able to move the shackle forth and back smoothly, that should help the ride a bit. Still have about 500lbs of stuff to put on but I'm getting closer.
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Aug 26, 2015 17:36
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Van which always wants something apparently wanted a new earth strap. Bought some 170A cable and 25mm2 crimp terminals for it, and made a new one. I have a proper battery terminal crimper so it was all easy. Bit of glue-lined heatshrink over the terminals and solder to fill the hole in the terminal ends to seal it all. Bit longer than needed but not an issue. Not sure how bad that old one actually was, but after loving with it my starting issue changed so i think it was an issue. I never drop tested this so i'm not sure if it did actually have excessive resistance. It's green, it shouldn't be green, that's enough reason. 
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Aug 26, 2015 20:16
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Finishing up the final steps to install the second battery:      I'm happy with this print, and how it fits the parts. Just need to wire it up to have a second (house) battery. Unfortunately, I can't drive it, because while replacing the booster/master cylinder, something weird started happening. I have a leak in the master cylinder. Fluid is coming out from here:  I tried reseating it, and checking o-rings, but this is a constant, slow drip. One big drip every five seconds or so that I can stop by putting my finger over it. Pumping the brakes does not make it worse. Is there supposed to be a plug for this hole, or is this a faulty cylinder, or what?
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Aug 27, 2015 07:48
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