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98 Civic EX. I've replaced the front rotors twice over the last year, it is driven 110 miles a day and it's driven pretty hard (long island/nyc). The first time was because it was due for new brakes, then a few months ago if started vibrating like crazy when braking above 65mph so I got new rotors from advance auto. Now it's doing the same thing, and I think it's lovely rotors but I'm not sure (wearever brand). Most of my problems with this car have revolved around non-honda parts so I'm looking at oem rotors at $65 each. I've used raybestos in the past with good results so at $20 that might be worth a shot. Aside from the rotors what else could be causing this? New shocks went on last year but I'm not sure if the control arms have been touched.
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Aug 23, 2015 11:08
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Long time ago, I used to work in the brake rotor business. OEM are always overpriced, and the quality of aftermarket stuff varies wildly. Wait a minute... vibration only at high speed? What kind of vibration?
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Aug 23, 2015 13:32
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M42 posted:Bit late, but thanks! I hate asking this question since the range is so wide, but is there a ballpark for the cost of the install + wiring setup? I think I spent about $300 putting a hitch on my Outback a few years back.
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Aug 23, 2015 17:22
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The CEL on my 1988 Ford F150 has been blinking every now and then for the past 2 weeks. My code scanner pulled code 67, which appears to be a trouble code for an automatic transmission? The problem is that my truck is a manual... Can anybody give me a hint as to what's going on? I will admit that my truck has been shifting rough lately.
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Aug 23, 2015 19:04
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Squashy Nipples posted:Long time ago, I used to work in the brake rotor business. OEM are always overpriced, and the quality of aftermarket stuff varies wildly. It vibrates a lot through the steering wheel but you feel it through the pedal also. The whole car sorta shakes. Leaning towards getting the OEM rotors if anything just to get rid of the lovely rotors and so we know it has good parts on it.
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Aug 23, 2015 19:30
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two_beer_bishes posted:It vibrates a lot through the steering wheel but you feel it through the pedal also. The whole car sorta shakes. Leaning towards getting the OEM rotors if anything just to get rid of the lovely rotors and so we know it has good parts on it. Have you tried new/different pads? 95% of the time vibration through the brake pedal isn't warped rotors, but rather pad material buildup on the rotor.
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Aug 23, 2015 21:18
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Geoj posted:Have you tried new/different pads? 95% of the time vibration through the brake pedal isn't warped rotors, but rather pad material buildup on the rotor. We put new pads on the first time. I've also done the hard braking from high speed down to almost stopped to try to burn off any deposits as suggested by some brake bedding guides with no changes. Edit: It just occurred to me that the pads I've been putting on are the same store brand bullshit. I'm going to get a set of Honda rotors/pads and go from there. Also going to pop off the rear drums and check out the shoes, after 255k miles it might be time for those to go too. two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Aug 23, 2015 |
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Aug 23, 2015 21:52
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I just bought a '15 Mazda3. I still have a good set of snow tires on steel wheels from my '07 Mazda6. I'm trying to figure out if they'll fit on the new car, or if I should just craigslist them. Tirerack says both cars use the same size tires, and the site offers 16" steel wheels that look identical in every measurement except for offset. The 16x6.5 wheels I own from the old car say, "Offset: 55mm" but Tirerack recommends I buy 16x6.5 wheels with "Offset: +42mm" for the new car. Can I use my old wheels/tires?
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Aug 23, 2015 22:03
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eddiewalker posted:I just bought a '15 Mazda3. I still have a good set of snow tires on steel wheels from my '07 Mazda6. I'm trying to figure out if they'll fit on the new car, or if I should just craigslist them. Try installing them. If they fit, they fit.
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Aug 23, 2015 23:53
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I have a nail in a run flat tire sitting at 0 psi. Given it's a run flat, is it better to drive it a few miles to the tire shop at 0 psi, or to inflate it a bit before driving? It's been sitting for a while before I noticed the nail, so I don't know if it's a slow leak or not. I'm getting new tires, so I'm concerned about damage to the wheel and safety while driving.
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Aug 24, 2015 21:21
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Technically, you don't have to inflate it, but it's better if you do, as it'll help the sidewall, which will maintain handling and protect the wheel more if you hit a pothole or something. Also, make sure you stay under 50mph.
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Aug 24, 2015 21:48
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Thanks. I wasn't sure if inflating a tire with a nail in it was a dumb thing to do.
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Aug 24, 2015 22:51
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I have a 2002 Ford Escort ZX2 and the speedometer and odometer stopped working two months ago. I had it looked at by a shop to diagnose and they recommended salvaging. The instrument cluster is getting power and the speed sensor is fine. Tachometer, fuel gauge, temp gauge are working fine. Is it worth it to salvage and replace the cluster and sell it privately? It's in good condition otherwise. I don't know if the history will show TMU. The carfax says nothing about it. It only had 53900 miles when the odometer stopped. CarMax offered me $500 for it. KBB for fair cond. is $1100-1200.
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Aug 24, 2015 23:03
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AccidentalFloss posted:I have a 2002 Ford Escort ZX2 and the speedometer and odometer stopped working two months ago. I had it looked at by a shop to diagnose and they recommended salvaging. The instrument cluster is getting power and the speed sensor is fine. Tachometer, fuel gauge, temp gauge are working fine. Is it worth it to salvage and replace the cluster and sell it privately? It's in good condition otherwise. I don't know if the history will show TMU. The carfax says nothing about it. It only had 53900 miles when the odometer stopped. CarMax offered me $500 for it. KBB for fair cond. is $1100-1200. First of all you probably shouldn't go to that shop again. To fix the speedometer/odometer you'll probably need a speed sensor, it shouldn't be a hard fix. It's hard to believe that a shop would tell you to scrap a car for something like that, what else is wrong with it?
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Aug 24, 2015 23:07
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kid sinister posted:The CEL on my 1988 Ford F150 has been blinking every now and then for the past 2 weeks. My code scanner pulled code 67, which appears to be a trouble code for an automatic transmission? The problem is that my truck is a manual... Can anybody give me a hint as to what's going on? I will admit that my truck has been shifting rough lately. Anybody? Should I just clear it and see if it comes back?
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Aug 24, 2015 23:53
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two_beer_bishes posted:98 Civic EX. I've replaced the front rotors twice over the last year, it is driven 110 miles a day and it's driven pretty hard (long island/nyc). The first time was because it was due for new brakes, then a few months ago if started vibrating like crazy when braking above 65mph so I got new rotors from advance auto. Now it's doing the same thing, and I think it's lovely rotors but I'm not sure (wearever brand). Most of my problems with this car have revolved around non-honda parts so I'm looking at oem rotors at $65 each. I've used raybestos in the past with good results so at $20 that might be worth a shot. Aside from the rotors what else could be causing this? New shocks went on last year but I'm not sure if the control arms have been touched. How are the hub surfaces where the rotors mate up? That can cause issues if the rotor isn't seated properly. Also, torquing the wheels in the correct manner and to the correct spec is important, otherwise that can cause issues with vibration as well. For what it's worth, my cheapo parts store rotors in my 98 DX are running just fine without resurfacing, etc. at 30,000 miles. Just threw a new set of pads on about 5k ago. Be sure to check for worn or loose components too.
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Aug 25, 2015 00:36
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Astonishing Wang posted:First of all you probably shouldn't go to that shop again. To fix the speedometer/odometer you'll probably need a speed sensor, it shouldn't be a hard fix. It's hard to believe that a shop would tell you to scrap a car for something like that, what else is wrong with it? What I meant was they could find an instrument cluster in salvage and replace it. I don't know if I can get an accurate estimate on that without them buying the part first. They said they checked the speed sensor and it was working and the problem was with the cluster itself. Maybe I should get another diagnostic done to be sure.
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Aug 25, 2015 00:45
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kid sinister posted:Anybody? Should I just clear it and see if it comes back? Clear it and see what happens. Might be a sign your ecu is making GBS threads itself, or a battery that's dying. Or it could just be a fluke.
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Aug 25, 2015 00:50
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ColdPie posted:Thanks. I wasn't sure if inflating a tire with a nail in it was a dumb thing to do. It didn't come rocketing out when it first pierced your tire, it didn't come out when spinning at speed, it's in there pretty loving good. I'd definitely inflate it if you can't change it to a spare / haul the tire in using another vehicle. Just because it's capable of driving some distance with the tire at 0psi doesn't mean the tire will still be usable afterwards.
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Aug 25, 2015 00:58
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Yeah, good point. Anyway, made it to the shop, and now it's got a new set of R-S3s on it. No spare, so now if I get a flat I'm just hosed 
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Aug 25, 2015 01:38
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So I think this is a sort of non-traditional stupid question but: A friend of a friend used to have a sort of parts shop for cars because he was an upholsterer/restorer and hey every little bit helps. He's long out of business because of severe medical problems (one of his arms literally falls out of its socket if he's not careful) but still has a bunch of inventory that's been sitting around he wants to get rid of. He's not terribly computer-savvy so I come to you, AI. Is any of this stuff actually sellable online? I don't know what the gently caress it is and my eyes sort of glaze over whenever he starts talking about them so I am making a terrible mistake and trusting your advice. Some sort of arm-moving thing  ??????  Circle Things With Holes Drilled In (various styles)  Metal Whips and The World's Biggest Pop Tab  Brake Switch Relays  ?????? Redux 
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Aug 25, 2015 02:07
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Aug 25, 2015 02:20
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Yeah, all of that is absolutely sellable. The Flaming River steering U-joints should still be able to be sold quickly at near full retail. They're a bit spendy but they are some of the best in the industry.
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Aug 25, 2015 03:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, all of that is absolutely sellable. The Flaming River steering U-joints should still be able to be sold quickly at near full retail. They're a bit spendy but they are some of the best in the industry. Same with all those Lokar cables.
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Aug 25, 2015 06:46
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What's the consensus on Centric brakes? I went to Honda today to buy rotors and pads and walked out when they rang up at $100/rotor and $70 for the pads. Right now I have centric rotors, akebono pads, and centric shoes for the rear, for $130 total and I'm having a hard time not ordering them despite my wife's order to get oem Honda parts.
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Aug 25, 2015 08:43
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Have you considered that it's your/your wife's driving habits causing the brake shudder? Gently riding the brakes for long periods of time, followed by sitting at a stop with them held on is like the top way to cause shudder and, coincidentally, the way the majority of people drive. What about the drums, are they out of round?
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Aug 25, 2015 08:59
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Slavvy posted:Have you considered that it's your/your wife's driving habits causing the brake shudder? Gently riding the brakes for long periods of time, followed by sitting at a stop with them held on is like the top way to cause shudder and, coincidentally, the way the majority of people drive. What about the drums, are they out of round? What's considered long periods? She does mostly highway driving with city stuff thrown in at the end and she knows where all the really long lights are and pops the hand brake on at them so she isn't pressing the brake pedal the whole time. She bought the car with 40k miles and it currently has 255k miles, and this has never been an issue in the past so I hesitate to think it's her driving style. Does the parking brake engage the drums? When it's applied it feels mostly smooth (grinds a little but which I'm going to address with new shoes, but no vibrating).
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Aug 25, 2015 12:52
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I had better luck with Centric rotors on my Mazdaspeed3 than I did with the OEMs. The factory ones warped twice in the first 40k miles so after the warranty ran out, I went with Centric blank rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Never had a hint of shudder again. The parking brake only engages the rear brake on what I'm guessing is pretty much nearly every car ever. On cars with rear drums it will just operate the same shoes that the hydraulic brakes use. With rear discs, some cars operate a mechanism to use the calipers, some have a small drum brake installed inside the rotor.
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Aug 25, 2015 17:56
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two_beer_bishes posted:What's the consensus on Centric brakes? I went to Honda today to buy rotors and pads and walked out when they rang up at $100/rotor and $70 for the pads. Right now I have centric rotors, akebono pads, and centric shoes for the rear, for $130 total and I'm having a hard time not ordering them despite my wife's order to get oem Honda parts. I switched to Centric as my preferred brand about eight years ago and haven't looked back. Granted rotors aren't exactly rocket science but their Stoptech Para-aramid pads have replaced Hawk HPS as my go-to performance street pad.
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Aug 25, 2015 18:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:I had better luck with Centric rotors on my Mazdaspeed3 than I did with the OEMs. The factory ones warped twice in the first 40k miles so after the warranty ran out, I went with Centric blank rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Never had a hint of shudder again. Geoj posted:I switched to Centric as my preferred brand about eight years ago and haven't looked back. Thanks guys, I'm ordering this poo poo.
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Aug 25, 2015 21:55
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I've got akebono ceramics on my civic si and they are loving legit
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Aug 25, 2015 23:45
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1997 Ford Ranger XLT (4x4, 4.0L V6, stick-shift, Extended Cab) I've gotta track down a slow leak in my power steering. The pump works, there's no whine (unless the fluid is low), and as long as I keep topping up the fluid level it works great. But if I leave it for a few days, it drains out completely. I suspect a leak in a hose or a hose fitting, but I don't know which hose (assuming there is more than one). How do I track this down? Is this something I can reasonably expect to tackle myself (with a bit of help from another enthusiastic amateur, my GF) in an afternoon? I'll be able to hit up local parts shops - in a different vehicle - on Friday and I could devote Friday afternoon and Saturday to this if I had to. Is there anything else (the power steering pump? some other hose in that area?) I might as well do "while I'm in there"?
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Aug 26, 2015 03:47
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It'll be one of the low pressure lines; if it was a high pressure line, it would leak out only while running. Basically, check all of the lines that run between the steering box, steering cooler, and pump. They'll be the smaller ones that just use hose clamps to attach, instead of the larger ones with fittings crimped on. There will probably be several sections of both rubber and metal hose (where it transitions between the steering cooler and body, etc); AutoZone stocks several sizes of bulk power steering hose. Also make sure the pump itself isn't leaking.
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Aug 26, 2015 04:05
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Pick up some UV dye. It usually comes with a pen-sized blacklight.
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Aug 26, 2015 04:05
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Any 'known issue' or 'need to pull engine to replace spark plugs' reasons to avoid the 3.0 V6 in a 2000 Ford Ranger (besides that it's gutless)? Looking at one for a beater work truck for my wife. Truck has 120K miles, third owner, oil and coolant look good.
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Aug 26, 2015 15:27
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If it's gutless, it sounds like the old Vulcan V6 rather than the DOHC V6. Congrats, you've got a boat anchor of an engine that will run until cockroaches are all that remain. It'll never do anything well, but they last. In a rwd configuration it's probably a breeze to work on, too.
Godholio fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 26, 2015 15:34
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Assuming it's the Vulcan motor, other than being a turd to live with it's solid as a tank when it comes to reliability. Only common issue I see on Google is the cam sensor. It's gutless and gets worse economy than the 4.0 (and is noisier to boot) but it'd make a perfect beater with minimal maintenance.
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Aug 26, 2015 15:35
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Would this be a place to ask for car buying advice? In particular, I know what I want--looking at a specific car in a specific dealership-- but I've never been to a dealership before, and I want to know what I'm getting into before I do it.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:25
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Car buying at a dealer is easy. Your wallet is getting lighter, and your getting screwed. How much depends on how well you read the fine print and your negotiating skills. There is a thread in ask/tell with car buying advice. In general, its best to go at the end of the month and don't be afraid to walk out. Have your financing pre arranged and don't let them talk to you about payments, only the bottom line. Refuse any extras (window etching, undercoating, extended warranty), and don't put a deposit down until you reach an agreement.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:46
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rdb posted:Car buying at a dealer is easy. Your wallet is getting lighter, and your getting screwed. How much depends on how well you read the fine print and your negotiating skills. There is a thread in ask/tell with car buying advice. All your examples of things to avoid are actually Good Things (tm). VIN Etchings lower your insurance, Undercoating extends the life of your car if you aren't in the west and an extended warranty is generally cheaper than paying out of pocket.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:29
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