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OSU_Matthew posted:I'm looking at picking up a pair of self adjusting wire strippers, and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations? I have a set of Irwin's. I am not sure if they are the model your talking about, but its worth every loving penny. Add a crimper, and every connection you will make looks  I think I have 40 bucks in both. Its so worth every penny.
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Aug 25, 2015 00:47
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My experience is that Klein is always a little better made than Irwin.
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Aug 25, 2015 01:21
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I gave in to temptation and bought the stupid 18v impact. I figure it's less expensive than a compressor+impact so really Im saving money. Now time to break some poo poo.
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Aug 25, 2015 01:36
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I need to buy new sockets as my box o sockets was stolen. SAE and metric and if it came as a cheaper set that would be a bonus. Any suggestions? I've heard avoid HF sockets unless I get the impact sockets. I might as well use this as an excuse for new ratchets, too. Gearwrench seems to be the hot poo poo right now, any other suggestions? Usual sources and I have Amazon prime so they might be best, unless it isn't.
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Aug 25, 2015 01:42
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El Jebus posted:I need to buy new sockets as my box o sockets was stolen. SAE and metric and if it came as a cheaper set that would be a bonus. Any suggestions? I've heard avoid HF sockets unless I get the impact sockets. I might as well use this as an excuse for new ratchets, too. Gearwrench seems to be the hot poo poo right now, any other suggestions? Usual sources and I have Amazon prime so they might be best, unless it isn't. Gearwrench and Kobalt are pretty solid. I don't do a lot of heavy wrenching, but all of mine have held up well. My brothers-in-law that do more than I have their garages full of GW and Kobalt tools (and snap-on, oh the joys of credit  )
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Aug 25, 2015 01:58
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El Jebus posted:I need to buy new sockets as my box o sockets was stolen. SAE and metric and if it came as a cheaper set that would be a bonus. Any suggestions? I've heard avoid HF sockets unless I get the impact sockets. I might as well use this as an excuse for new ratchets, too. Gearwrench seems to be the hot poo poo right now, any other suggestions? Usual sources and I have Amazon prime so they might be best, unless it isn't. The color-coded chrome HF sockets have been fine for me. I've only blown up one of them in 3 years of heavy professional use and I usually run 'em on an impact. Now my old Craftsman sockets, those I've blown up a good fistful of (and none of those were even with an impact  ). gently caress those, they live in the storage unit now.
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Aug 25, 2015 02:57
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Splizwarf posted:The color-coded chrome HF sockets have been fine for me. I've only blown up one of them in 3 years of heavy professional use and I usually run 'em on an impact. Now my old Craftsman sockets, those I've blown up a good fistful of (and none of those were even with an impact Craftsman sockets were what was stolen! I'll check my local HF, too. I'm planning on getting the Makita 12v Impact to make my life a little easier.
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Aug 25, 2015 03:53
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OSU_Matthew posted:I'm looking at picking up a pair of self adjusting wire strippers, and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations? The irwins do look pretty neat too though and I was recently reading and watching some video reviews on it. One interesting difference is that the irwin style have purposely dull jaws that grip and tear the insulation instead of cutting into it, the reasoning for this is to avoid any risk of cutting into your wire strands. The kleins on the other hand are sharpened holes, though I haven't noticed any significant cutting into the copper with them. Another thing to note is that the irwins have a built in wire stop for stripping to a consistent length, which I do wish the klein tool had. It is offered as a piece you can buy separately, I may try 3d printing my own version one of these days.
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Aug 25, 2015 09:41
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El Jebus posted:Craftsman sockets were what was stolen! I'll check my local HF, too. I'm planning on getting the Makita 12v Impact to make my life a little easier. In the last few weeks I've been on a tool-buying binge knowing that I'd be replacing upper/lower control rods and a starter on my wife's Pathfinder. The things I've learned:
Things I haven't learned: the old starter would randomly not work, new starter worked last night after installation, but this morning just went "click click click" when the wife tried it. "I thought you needed those new tools to fix it? Should we just take it to the mechanic?" Goddammit.
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Aug 25, 2015 14:06
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For sockets grey pneumatic are pretty decent theres some good reviews online and they have full sets for a decent price. And for the panther that is now just clicking make sure the battery is fully charged and the terminals are tight on the starter and battery.
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Aug 25, 2015 14:11
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Jonny Quest posted:In If the old starter didn't work randomly, try banging on it with a wrench to free up the armature. If it's clicking, take your car to an auto parts store and have them check the battery/alternator. Also, did someone say harbor freight extensions?   E: El Jebus posted:Craftsman sockets were what was stolen! I'll check my local HF, too. I'm planning on getting the Makita 12v Impact to make my life a little easier. I just bought into the Makita 18v li-ion lineup after my dad gave me his old impact driver, and every tool I've bought since then has been top notch. Plus the batteries last forever (even on a circular saw) and everything is compatible within the Makita lineup, so no bs incompatible batteries. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 14:22
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OSU_Matthew posted:If the old starter didn't work randomly, try banging on it with a wrench to free up the armature. Yeah, my wife was okay with that when it was just her, but apparently once you add in a screaming baby in a hot car and suddenly the hammer with the comically long arm is no longer good enough. Tonight I'll double-check the all the terminals and battery. OSU_Matthew posted:harbor freight extensions If you told me that was just using a manual ratchet I would believe it. These are the bad boys I was using: 
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Aug 25, 2015 14:33
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I've gone through enough lovely extensions that I pretty much only use impacts now. Did you use HF impact sockets as well, or were the sockets the normal chromies? If I could get away with the chromies from HF it would open up some cash towards other things I want rather than just things I need! Speaking of... This 12v set is what I'm looking at and it seems like a pretty good deal, especially since the drill would replace the 20 year old 12v my FIL gave my wife. The same set without the driver or drill (or flashlight) is $65 cheaper so this seems worth it. Is there a reason to go for the 18v systems instead for an extra hundred or so? I love how small and light the Makita 12v bodies are. I'll be doing a lot of work on motorcycles so I think the smaller size will be a blessing. Eventually I plan on a high torque impact as well but that is a little farther down the tool collection road. Jonny Quest posted:Tonight I'll double-check the all the terminals and battery. Definitely check the terminals if operation is sporadic. Sounds like a loose connection on the starter.
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Aug 25, 2015 17:23
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I did go with the HF impact sockets, although there are two versions of them: Made in China (Pittsburgh) and then Made in Taiwan (Pittsburgh Pro). The former are what come in the SAE/Metric combo kits that are tempting, the latter only come individually as SAE- or metric-only. I probably would have been fine with the Chinese versions as I'm using the battery impact and not air-tools. I went with the brushless 18V Bosch mostly because of its trick 1/4"-1/2" chuck, but also because it had the promise of working on lug nuts and rusted suspension bits. The 12V should suit you fine for motorcycle work--and deck screws, and drywall screws, and 99% of everything else; frankly, the newer 12V li-ion stuff consistently blows my mind at how powerful it is. For practical matters my father's Bosch 12V brushless li-ion drill works just as well as my 18V li-ion Hitachi drill, just lighter and smaller which is great for his recent pocket-screwed cabinetry projects.
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Aug 25, 2015 18:16
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El Jebus posted:I've gone through enough lovely extensions that I pretty much only use impacts now. Did you use HF impact sockets as well, or were the sockets the normal chromies? If I could get away with the chromies from HF it would open up some cash towards other things I want rather than just things I need! You want the impact driver, only thing I still use a drill for is stuff like hole saws. Impact drivers are just freaking awesome, and once you use one, you'll wonder how you ever got by without one. My two cents is you might as well buy the 18v(aka 20v) line. Makita makes some of the lightest tools in its class, so I don't think you'll notice too much of a difference in form factor. But if you're already spending 200$, you might as well spend a few bucks extra at the get go if you ever think you might want to upgrade one day, or are on the fence now, that way you don't wind up essentially buying the same tools all over again when you get the itch for more power/variety. Being able to interchange batteries between a drill and circular saw still blows my mind Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 20:56
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Jonny Quest posted:I did go with the HF impact sockets, although there are two versions of them: Made in China (Pittsburgh) and then Made in Taiwan (Pittsburgh Pro). The former are what come in the SAE/Metric combo kits that are tempting, the latter only come individually as SAE- or metric-only. You're still quite limited on removal torque on an impact driver, the one you linked only does 1650in-lb which is roughly 137.5 Foot-Pounds. For real impact removal work, you'd want something well over 300ft-lb Don't get me wrong, I loving loooove my impact driver for household stuff, but its not for removing lug nuts.
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Aug 25, 2015 21:42
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Impact drivers can be kind of handy with a 1/2" bit simply because they're so much smaller than impact guns. Good for stuff like body panels. But yeah, you don't want an impact driver for most automotive work. They're for stuff like driving deck screws or lag bolts into studs, not working on cars.
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Aug 25, 2015 21:51
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revmoo posted:They're for stuff like driving deck screws or lag bolts into studs, not working on cars. Have you seen the mechanical failures thread? Timber plays a core role in some chassis reinforcement plans.
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Aug 25, 2015 22:02
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revmoo posted:But yeah, you don't want an impact driver for most automotive work. They're for stuff like driving deck screws or lag bolts into studs, not working on cars. BraveUlysses posted:Don't get me wrong, I loving loooove my impact driver for household stuff, but its not for removing lug nuts. Yuuuuup. You definitely want an Impact Wrench, not an Impact Driver for removing bolts on a car. Drivers are for, as their name implies, driving things, not breaking loose stuck bolts.
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Aug 25, 2015 22:11
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I love the little Bosch 12V lithium ion drills and drivers. They're super small and very easy to hold for doing stuff above your head. Definitely not powerful enough for auto work though, but great everywhere else around the house.
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Aug 25, 2015 22:38
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mod sassinator posted:I love the little Bosch 12V lithium ion drills and drivers. They're super small and very easy to hold for doing stuff above your head. Definitely not powerful enough for auto work though, but great everywhere else around the house. Due to necessity, I've been using a Bosch 12v impactor at work on cars - for removing car's belly pans for oil changes? Engine covers? Dashboard and interior parts? PERFECT. Brakes? Not even trying.
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Aug 26, 2015 02:10
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I have a set of Irwin's. I am not sure if they are the model your talking about, but its worth every loving penny. Add a crimper, and every connection you will make looks Second the Irwins. I have knockoff set I got at princess auto, which looks exactly the same but with power-fist printed on them instead of Irwin. Those fuckers make any wiring job so much easier. I've used them on wires between 10 and like 20 gauge, not a single issue in hundreds of uses. Combined with my ratcheting terminal crimpers, I'm definitely not ashamed to show people my work. On electrical though, can anyone recommend me a nice soldering iron for automotive electrics? I'm in need of a new one.
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Aug 26, 2015 02:47
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SouthsideSaint posted:For sockets grey pneumatic are pretty decent theres some good reviews online and they have full sets for a decent price. I've got a couple sets of the duo sockets now and I'm definitely impressed with the initial quality.
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Aug 26, 2015 04:30
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Is TEKTON any decent for sockets? Lots of decent reviews on Amazon but obviously without experiencing them firsthand I can't tell if they are in fact decent. They are a bit cheaper than the Gearwrench and grey pneumatic stuff and that appeals to my desire to spend less so I can get more.
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Aug 26, 2015 05:00
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El Jebus posted:Is TEKTON any decent for sockets? Lots of decent reviews on Amazon but obviously without experiencing them firsthand I can't tell if they are in fact decent. They are a bit cheaper than the Gearwrench and grey pneumatic stuff and that appeals to my desire to spend less so I can get more. My pile of TEKTON stuff is pretty limited, but looking at the reviews if you say ANYTHING remotely critical of an item a TEKTON rep is there to get more details and do whatever it takes to make you happy. My guess is they use the same Cro-Moly Taiwanese manufacturers as everyone else, so the sockets shouldn't immediately shatter on you. Impact Driver Chat: Granted the ft lbs are limited, and most of my needs are carpentry related, but that drat Bosch impact driver has been my favorite automotive* tool and happily removes lug nuts for me. *Bear in mind anything that requires valve cover removal scares me.
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Aug 26, 2015 17:11
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Lots of posts about magnets on a stick in the failures thread, I only used mine for pulling a lifter. http://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY I use one of these for that at home claw game experience for lost bolts or nuts. Mine even has a light in the tip.
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Aug 26, 2015 17:18
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Jonny Quest posted:*Bear in mind anything that requires valve cover removal scares me. Removing valve covers is usually easier than replacing the brake pads on a lot of cars. Easier than replacing spark plugs too.
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Aug 26, 2015 18:24
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HotCanadianChick posted:Removing valve covers is usually easier than replacing the brake pads on a lot of cars. Easier than replacing spark plugs too. And God forbid you have to replace a headlight bulb on a newer Prius...
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Aug 26, 2015 18:40
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HotCanadianChick posted:Removing valve covers is usually easier than replacing the brake pads on a lot of cars. Easier than replacing spark plugs too. Come pull the covers on my F150. You will change your mind.
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Aug 26, 2015 19:10
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So what's the opinion on spline sockets and wrenches? They always struck me as a good way to strip things.
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Aug 26, 2015 19:47
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Sadi posted:So what's the opinion on spline sockets and wrenches? They always struck me as a good way to strip things. Exactly that
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Aug 26, 2015 20:29
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Sadi posted:So what's the opinion on spline sockets and wrenches? They always struck me as a good way to strip things. Not any worse than regular 12 point sockets, IMHO. If you're worried about stripping things use a 6 point.
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Aug 26, 2015 20:42
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HotCanadianChick posted:Removing valve covers is usually easier than replacing the brake pads on a lot of cars. Easier than replacing spark plugs too. Yeah. except when the vehicle is a van and pulling the dog house doesn't even aid in valve cover removal. But in tool news I keep finding more and more old snap on poo poo in the garage. And I use my Makita 1/4' Impact driver at work ALL DAY LONG to brake rusty bolts and nuts loose. It works amazing And ive seen many other mechanics that use an impact driver. They even make socket adapters for it. Ive used my 1/4 Makita to brake lugs nuts loose on Hondas before.
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Aug 26, 2015 23:52
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HotCanadianChick posted:Removing valve covers is usually easier than replacing the brake pads on a lot of cars. Easier than replacing spark plugs too. Do a Subaru and tell me what you think.
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Aug 27, 2015 02:43
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Do a Subaru and tell me what you think. SOHC subaru is okay. I just looked at a DOHC Subaru and said NOPE
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Aug 27, 2015 02:50
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I did say usually, jerkshoes. :P
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Aug 27, 2015 04:37
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El Jebus posted:And God forbid you have to replace a headlight bulb on Fixed.
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Aug 27, 2015 05:17
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Nissan headlight bulbs are all pretty easy, in and out in under five minutes on any current model.
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Aug 27, 2015 13:58
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Geoj posted:Fixed. Is it my imagination that an awful lot of cars now require to do something silly like remove the bumper for a simple bulb swap? Not just the oddballs like the new Beetle, but a lot that really have no excuse for this type of crap?
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Aug 27, 2015 14:48
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spog posted:Is it my imagination that an awful lot of cars now require to do something silly like remove the bumper for a simple bulb swap? It's not your imagination. My old truck ('04 2500HD) was incredibly simple, pull a pin and the whole headlight assembly pops out for service. New truck? Gotta remove a bunch of stuff to get access to the back of the headlight, and the bulb is tough to extract. 
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Aug 27, 2015 17:34
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