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It isn't hydrolocked so it doesn't really matter. Still no update from the insurance company and upon further inspection of the interior to get my stuff out the water got at least 1' deep in it. The side door storage bins had standing water in them and the seats are completely water-logged. When I leaned on the passenger seat to get into the center console to grab my iPod out of the car I could hear water gushing down onto the floor boards. Already starting to smell like poo poo. Trunk didn't really get any water as the manuals for my car were back there for some stupid reason which were bone dry. The auto-shut mechanism on the trunk no longer works as well. Do I need to do anything in regards attempting to dry the interior out or should I just leave it until Progressive is around to deal with the car? Good thing is I have gap insurance so this won't be a big deal and I can pay $500 and call it done. Kids, always get gap insurance unless you pay down a huge chunk on your car. flyboi fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Aug 28, 2015 |
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Aug 28, 2015 17:47
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flyboi posted:Do I need to do anything in regards attempting to dry the interior out or should I just leave it until Progressive is around to deal with the car? STOP. loving. WITH. IT.
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Aug 28, 2015 18:07
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Ozmiander posted:STOP. loving. WITH. IT. Christ I was getting my poo poo out of the car so it doesn't get moldy I wasn't dicking around with it. I'm not getting in it anymore I just don't know if I needed to make an effort to dry it out or not as I've never dealt with this nonsense before.
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Aug 28, 2015 18:10
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flyboi posted:Christ I was getting my poo poo out of the car so it doesn't get moldy I wasn't dicking around with it. I'm not getting in it anymore I just don't know if I needed to make an effort to dry it out or not as I've never dealt with this nonsense before. Take your poo poo out, lock the car and then realize it's done. Your insurer will send someone to look/retrieve it and then you'll never see it again.
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Aug 28, 2015 18:11
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flyboi posted:Christ I was getting my poo poo out of the car so it doesn't get moldy I wasn't dicking around with it. I'm not getting in it anymore I just don't know if I needed to make an effort to dry it out or not as I've never dealt with this nonsense before. When you speak with insurance/whoever point out the fact that the water in the area was contaminated with garbage (as evident from the pictures), possibly human waste, making the water in vehicle biohazardous. Also, rinse your legs in a very dilute bleach solution if you haven't showered since those pics.
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Aug 28, 2015 18:14
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You asked on IRC already and the answer is still let them total it and get another car. You've had it for 2 weeks, done zero modifications to it, just get another of the same color/options/etc and move on with your life.
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Aug 28, 2015 18:16
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He's following the typical goon-asking-for-advice scenario to a tee, though. 
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Aug 28, 2015 18:29
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EightBit posted:He's following the typical goon-asking-for-advice scenario to a tee, though. He's already in a well full of piss.
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Aug 28, 2015 19:14
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2000 V6 Dodge Stratus Automatic,~160k miles. Wife just called and said it made a clunk, check engine light came on and won't go over 40 mph. Had her check oil and tranny fluid both good. We had a general inspection after it wouldn't start (starter cable had been poorly crimped and was loose) and they recommended a transmission flush but said otherwise everything was in good shape. We did the tranny flush about 6 months ago. We planned to replace this car in about 2 years, but could buy one now. Should this be a reason to move that timeline up or is it possibly something <$500 to fix? FWIW bought this car ~1 year ago with 140k on it for $3800.
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Aug 28, 2015 19:43
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It may not go over 40 because the computer has set it to limp mode. Get the check engine light code read (you can do it for free at any Autozone not in California) and we can tell you more. Without a code, or any sort of diagnosis, it's tough to know if this is a catastrophic failure of your transmission, ($$$$) or just a dead sensor ($) or something.
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Aug 28, 2015 19:48
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Leperflesh posted:It may not go over 40 because the computer has set it to limp mode. Get the check engine light code read (you can do it for free at any Autozone not in California) and we can tell you more. Without a code, or any sort of diagnosis, it's tough to know if this is a catastrophic failure of your transmission, ($$$$) or just a dead sensor ($) or something. Code is P0733 - Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid - Shift solenoids - Transmission mechanical problems - Transmission hydraulic control circuit
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Aug 28, 2015 20:08
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Based on your description the transmission is in limp mode and stuck in second gear. I had a Plymouth that did the same. I changed out the solenoid pack and let jiffy lube flush it and the transmission lasted the next owner another 100k miles. It may still be going to this day. YMMV and keep in mind I hated the car and if it died I could have cared less. In the mean time reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and see if it shifts normal afterwords. If not its probably toast.
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Aug 28, 2015 21:31
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flyboi posted:Christ I was getting my poo poo out of the car so it doesn't get moldy I wasn't dicking around with it. I'm not getting in it anymore I just don't know if I needed to make an effort to dry it out or not as I've never dealt with this nonsense before. At this point your intent should be to make sure it's in as horrible condition as possible without committing a felony.
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Aug 28, 2015 21:51
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Brand new X3 with water line that low? Probably not totalled. Depends on what lives under the seats, but unless it hits the dash, it's not an automatic total. Car has a ton of value since it's new.
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Aug 28, 2015 22:34
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Bovril Delight posted:Brand new X3 with water line that low? Probably not totalled. Depends on what lives under the seats, but unless it hits the dash, it's not an automatic total. Car has a ton of value since it's new. According to Progressive it has an extremely high likelihood of being considered a total loss due to the water line and the description about the electronics acting fucky. They towed it away to my dealer and Progressive is setting up some triage booth there to inspect cars on Monday. Should hear the news then.
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Aug 28, 2015 23:00
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flyboi posted:According to Progressive it has an extremely high likelihood of being considered a total loss due to the water line and the description about the electronics acting fucky. They towed it away to my dealer and Progressive is setting up some triage booth there to inspect cars on Monday. Should hear the news then. CharlieWhiskey posted:When you speak with insurance/whoever point out the fact that the water in the area was contaminated with garbage (as evident from the pictures), possibly human waste, making the water in vehicle biohazardous. Don't forget to specifically mention this point.
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Aug 28, 2015 23:10
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Car: 2006 4cyl Rav 4 Issue: Code P0300 (random misfires) as well as misfires on 1,2,4 (P0301, P0302, P0304) 110k miles Took it to dealership to diagnose and get a general checkup. They said they tried swapping plugs to see if the misfire issue persists on specific cylinders, but plugs hadn't been changed in over 100k miles as per the manual so swapping the plugs was a faulty test from the start. They also swapped coil packs instead of using a new coil pack to test spark and didn't test resistances on any with a multimeter. Their diagnosis: needs 4 fuel injectors for $700. Even if it needs injectors, their tests were dogshit. Anyway. Assuming the issue actually involves the injectors and not the coils, should I snag used fuel injectors from a low mileage vehicle, get new injectors, or clean these ones up professionally at a shop?
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Aug 29, 2015 20:17
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http://www.mrinjector.us/ Get a rebuild kit, pull some out of scrap and send them off, send your off. All depends on your time line. I'd recommend one of the last two. .....if it's even the injectors.
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Aug 29, 2015 21:45
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Motronic posted:.....if it's even the injectors. Very doubtful. Never seen injectors to be a problem on that motor, assuming it's a 2AZFE.
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Aug 30, 2015 06:07
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Edited 1991 Olds Ciera V6 Electrical Question: I think I found an answer to my other question, so just a follow-up. Trying to remove the front power window motor and replace it. However, can't find specific instructions for this make/model beyond I guess I'm to drill out the 2(?) rivets holding the old and bolt in the new one. But the new motor is just one metal piece and the old one looks to have some sort of plastic box hooked up to it with a plastic hole-punch loop running off of it. There seems like there should be more to this than I'm finding. JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Aug 30, 2015 |
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Aug 30, 2015 06:56
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Looking for some rust repair advice, as I've never handled anything like this. I recently bought a big old '99 E350 van for motorcycle hauling/camping. It's from Vegas, so the frame/body are entirely free of rust except for this one spot towards the front, where the gutter next to the hightop drains over the windshield:   The outermost metal layer has a hole in it, so water collects down inside there. I suctioned it all out, and the inside metal looks like it's in decently non-rusty shape at least. My plan of attack is to hit the area with a wire wheel while trying to avoid the sealant for the hightop roof, coating the metal with this stuff (maybe pour a little into the hole and slosh it around?), and then fill the hole with as much sealant as I can before leveling it off so the gutter still drains forward. I need to make sure it's as dry as possible inside before I attempt this, right? Should I blast a hair dryer down there for a while? And what's the best kind of sealant to use for this?
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Aug 30, 2015 17:26
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I've got another question about my 2007 Nissan Altima with the CVT. When I take it up hills with a steep grade, it revs high with a barely audible high pitched whine and dogs down. Basically I'm not able to get the car over 55MPH once this starts. This behavior continues even when the hills flatten out. I was able to resolve it by pulling off the road and letting it sit for 10 minutes or so. For any fellow goons who live in Arizona, it happens when I'm taking a trip from Phoenix on I-17 towards Flagstaff so maybe you could add some anecdotes in relation to that. The strange thing is this behavior does not occur when I'm driving on flat surfaces, no matter the speed or duration. This behavior first started occurring at the beginning of June and hasn't recurred until this weekend when I once again drove to Flagstaff. I have asked a few of my mechanically inclined family members what they thought and the consensus seems to be the transmission is slipping. Does this sound right to you guys? Edit: Just re-read the post by Leperflesh where he mentions tranny issues could be bringing down my MPG. It's starting to sound more plausible at this point. Neitherman fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Aug 31, 2015 |
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Aug 31, 2015 00:05
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Anyone have any experience with Familia GTRs?
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Aug 31, 2015 00:25
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Butt Wizard posted:Anyone have any experience with Familia GTRs? There's definitely some with Familia/323/Escort GTs, which would have similar setup with less power; the GTR specifically would probably be pretty rare. What exactly do you need to know? That would be helpful.
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Aug 31, 2015 00:35
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Butt Wizard posted:Anyone have any experience with Familia GTRs? Been a few years but the last time I interacted with one I learned that they have crap transmissions made of glitterdust, average handling considering their size/weight and are generally Not Very Good, IMO. They also rust like a mofo.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:17
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I'm looking for a good low-profile jack that'll fit under a Prius and a stock-height 4Runner. Any brands to avoid like the plague?
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Aug 31, 2015 01:46
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Enourmo posted:There's definitely some with Familia/323/Escort GTs, which would have similar setup with less power; the GTR specifically would probably be pretty rare. Looking for something small and zippy to replace a Corolla in the next year. I hate myself so I'm going to something small and Group A-ish, but that pretty much means either GTR or GTIR. Slavvy posted:Been a few years but the last time I interacted with one I learned that they have crap transmissions made of glitterdust, average handling considering their size/weight and are generally Not Very Good, IMO. They also rust like a mofo. I keep hearing that about the transmissions but there's no road salt here so I guess that's not such a big deal.
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Aug 31, 2015 01:55
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LeeMajors posted:I'm looking for a good low-profile jack that'll fit under a Prius and a stock-height 4Runner. Any brands to avoid like the plague? Like a floor jack? I think a lot of them come from the same rebranding manufacturers. Just make sure you use stands rather than leave the weight on the jack.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:08
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Godholio posted:Like a floor jack? I think a lot of them come from the same rebranding manufacturers. Just make sure you use stands rather than leave the weight on the jack. Yeah, floor jack. I'd prefer not to spend a billion dollars but I don't want to buy a piece of poo poo either. The Pittsburgh one at Harborfreight is everywhere. Craftsman? Are either of those worth a gently caress? And yeah, jack stands are part of it.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:09
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 The Duralast branded jack I have now looks exactly like the Goodyear branded one I got from Pep Boys years ago. They're mostly all Chinesium garbage these days anyway.It works, and it was cheap (<$30 on sale). It might have trouble lifting your 4Runner though, it doesn't really go that high. It's not something I would use every day, but it gets the car high enough to get it on jack stands.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:17
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I've got a Craftsman. It's probably 10 years old and could use a rebuild...it still works, but I had to replace half the fluid recently since it's been slowly bleeding to death. There are basically no spare parts available. The main unit is available as a replacement assembly, but last time I priced it out the drat thing actually cost about $10 more than a new jack. This is the 3-ton they still sell. Not exactly a low-profile, but it'll fit under almost anything.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:18
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Cool, thanks guys. I've just used my dads poo poo for years and wanted to pick up one that'd work w/ both cars. I've got a little trolley jack i've used for the Prius for awhile, but its kind of a pain in the rear end. Most of the problems I've seen is in lift height, and didn't know if there was a particular brand that was more versatile or better. Thanks for the info though.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:21
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For the 4Runner, a bottle jack will be a lot more useful. Unlikely to fit under the Prius though. Or use a couple of blocks of wood on top of the trolley jack if you need to lift the 4Runner. This would be a very bad time to forget about stands.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:24
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I just moved to California, and I'm going to need to register my truck in the near future. It's a 92 Ford Ranger, I'm just looking for what I'm in for. There's no real problems with the truck, but is there anything I should do before hand to help it out? Additives? Get the oil changed even if I don't need it just yet? Sacrifice a chicken to the gods of the small trucks? I've read through the DMV page, but short of going in and doing it I won't know if there's anything I should have done beforehand that would help.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:31
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some texas redneck posted:For the 4Runner, a bottle jack will be a lot more useful. Unlikely to fit under the Prius though. Cool thanks. Stock jack is a little bottle jack anyways, so maybe i'll just pick up a couple of stands and do a little extra work. I have access to a nice floor jack anytime, but its like 30mi away. Just thought there was maybe something that'd work for both.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:39
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The blue aluminum jacks at Harbor Freight age pretty decent for the price.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:43
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LeeMajors posted:Cool thanks. Stock jack is a little bottle jack anyways, so maybe i'll just pick up a couple of stands and do a little extra work. I have access to a nice floor jack anytime, but its like 30mi away. Just thought there was maybe something that'd work for both. The tool thread might be a better place for this discussion, but I really like my Arcan (Costco) 3.5 ton jack. It's low enough to pick up my lowered car (well, it's not super low, but it's a couple inches lower than stock) and my old pickup. I believe HF "makes" (probably comes from the same factory) one that looks the same; you'd probably be happy with one of those. How tall is the truck? this HF jack looks like the one, and it goes up to 19.75". On sale at the moment, too.
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Aug 31, 2015 02:45
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Man_of_Teflon posted:[...]then fill the hole with as much sealant as I can before leveling it off so the gutter still drains forward. Be careful filling any holes that weren't meant to be filled. Metal heats up and expands during the heat of the day and contracts when it's cold at night. This is especially pronounced in a desert environment such as where you appear to be. Try not to fill it with any more gunk than you absolutely need to. Also, think about what happens if the repair does not hold. Consider drilling a drain-hole at the bottom of that airspace. (And then pay someone to galvanize it).
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Aug 31, 2015 03:35
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Butt Wizard posted:Looking for something small and zippy to replace a Corolla in the next year. I hate myself so I'm going to something small and Group A-ish, but that pretty much means either GTR or GTIR. The GTIR is vastly, vastly superior in every way IMO. I've seen a shitload of rusty 323's of that generation, I don't see why the GTR would be special in that regard. Have you noticed that, despite that model being generally reliable and good, you hardly see any of them around anymore, compared to 90's Toyotas and such? It's because they're all at pickapart with holes in the sills.
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Aug 31, 2015 04:19
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Hey guys, my 2003 mustang is acting funny and I'd like all the info I could get before I take it into a shop. It first started a couple a couple months ago. About half the times when I would try to start it the ignition would turn but the car would immediately die. Like the starter was working but the engine wasn't getting any gas. I would have to try 3 or 4 times to get it to start. I'm a poor so I didn't want to take it in to be fixed. Just yesterday I'm driving around and as I'm sitting at a red light I notice my car is kinda shimmying, The RPM was going up and down around 500-700. Today it was way worse, really rocking back and forth going between 500-1000. Does it sound like the issue with the car not starting and the RPM problems could be related? I'd hate to have to fix two things on it I doubt I could afford one. Also if this stuff sounds like something an ameture could fix I'd be willing to try. I do feel comfortable doing some repairs as long as I know what to look for/google up.
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Aug 31, 2015 04:19
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