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life is killing me posted:If it helps, my TSX is doing this too and no water is getting in Some cars call them door glass wipes, some call them door glass seals, I know there's at least one other term for them that I'm missing. Yes, they are vehicle-specific, and for something like a modern Honda, probably dealer-only.
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Sep 2, 2015 06:46
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"Window scraper"
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Sep 2, 2015 14:16
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2011 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro. 66k miles or so. Whenever I drive above 65 or 70 the steering column shakes (well, the whole car sort of shakes). I took the tires to be rotated and all, which helped slightly. Took it to another mechanic yesterday who put it up on the lift and said nothing was wrong with the car-- tires were in balance, etc. Any idea what to do next?
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Sep 2, 2015 17:08
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Koppite posted:2011 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro. 66k miles or so. Whenever I drive above 65 or 70 the steering column shakes (well, the whole car sort of shakes). Sounds like an alignment to me. Is it just the steering column that shakes, or is it a vibration through the whole car?
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Sep 2, 2015 17:15
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Cthulhuite posted:Sounds like an alignment to me. Is it just the steering column that shakes, or is it a vibration through the whole car? You can feel it through the passenger seat as well-- could that be an alignment issue?
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Sep 2, 2015 17:33
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So here's a stupid question. My brakes needed an inspection so I took them in. I drive a honda fit. My front tires are getting pretty worn down and I wanted to get them rotated because my rear wheels still look pretty good. The dude said he would do the brake inspection but not rotate the tires because "It is firestones policy to keep the best tires in the rear". When I told him its a FWD car he said "That's why you'd want the best ones in the rear so they don't wear as much." Am I crazy or was this guy full of poo poo and an idiot? Or am I full of poo poo and an idiot? I told him to just do the brake inspection. edit: Hmmm research seems to be implying that a lot of places recommend the best tires on the rear... I am so confused, up is down, my whole world is tilted. Knifegrab fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Sep 2, 2015 |
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Sep 2, 2015 18:10
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Well ideally you want good tires on all 4, but yeah it's better to have good tires in back. You're thinking for acceleration, but the reasoning is because of cornering in wet/low traction conditions; it's better to have grip in back and understeer (for which the correction is "hit the brakes", most peoples' instinctive reaction anyway) than to have it in front and end up oversteering (which is a lot harder for your average driver to correct.) Compared with that, the slight differences in acceleration/braking are negligible.
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Sep 2, 2015 18:18
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Enourmo posted:Well ideally you want good tires on all 4, but yeah it's better to have good tires in back. You're thinking for acceleration, but the reasoning is because of cornering in wet/low traction conditions; it's better to have grip in back and understeer (for which the correction is "hit the brakes", most peoples' instinctive reaction anyway) than to have it in front and end up oversteering (which is a lot harder for your average driver to correct.) So my best bet would be to then get two new tires and throw my rears onto my fronts and my news onto the rear?
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Sep 2, 2015 18:19
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Koppite posted:You can feel it through the passenger seat as well-- could that be an alignment issue? That's what it sounds like to me. When a wheel is out of alignment, especially when it's only by the smallest amount, it'll result in the shakes as the car goes faster - so what feels perfectly fine at 30mph when that wobble isn't noticeable becomes a shake and a judder when you're going 60 or 80.
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Sep 2, 2015 18:22
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Knifegrab posted:So here's a stupid question. My brakes needed an inspection so I took them in. I drive a honda fit. My front tires are getting pretty worn down and I wanted to get them rotated because my rear wheels still look pretty good. The dude said he would do the brake inspection but not rotate the tires because "It is firestones policy to keep the best tires in the rear". When I told him its a FWD car he said "That's why you'd want the best ones in the rear so they don't wear as much." Seems to me it would be getting better grip in the front with the better tires in the front, on a FWD car. Enourmo posted:Well ideally you want good tires on all 4, but yeah it's better to have good tires in back. You're thinking for acceleration, but the reasoning is because of cornering in wet/low traction conditions; it's better to have grip in back and understeer (for which the correction is "hit the brakes", most peoples' instinctive reaction anyway) than to have it in front and end up oversteering (which is a lot harder for your average driver to correct.) Again I claim to know gently caress all about cars but this seems like it negates the point of rotating tires in the first place. Although, in all honesty I could be totally missing the point of tire rotations
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Sep 2, 2015 18:23
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life is killing me posted:Again I claim to know gently caress all about cars but this seems like it negates the point of rotating tires in the first place. The point of tire rotations is to keep the wear even on all four, then you replace all four at once. By the time they're at "hmm maybe I should replace these" it's already too late for rotations to be a thing that helps. The reason they say you want good tires on the rear, like Fucknag said, is because you don't want the rear to come around on you when taking a fast turn. It's better for the front end to plow, from a not-spinning-into-the-wall perspective.
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Sep 2, 2015 18:45
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Raluek posted:The point of tire rotations is to keep the wear even on all four, then you replace all four at once. By the time they're at "hmm maybe I should replace these" it's already too late for rotations to be a thing that helps. But if my front tires wear quciker than my rears, and mechanics policies are to never rotate more worn to the rear, how will I be able to ever rotate my tires if I get all 4 at the same time, because my fronts will always be more worn than my rears and I imagine they will refuse to rotate. (No I cannot rotate myself I am big dumb babby).
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Sep 2, 2015 18:50
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Knifegrab posted:But if my front tires wear quciker than my rears, and mechanics policies are to never rotate more worn to the rear, how will I be able to ever rotate my tires if I get all 4 at the same time, because my fronts will always be more worn than my rears and I imagine they will refuse to rotate. (No I cannot rotate myself I am big dumb babby). My understanding was that those policies were only in place for when the tires are significantly worn; if they refuse to do so when they're only a little bit worn (like, non-visibly even) then that's weird, yes.
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Sep 2, 2015 18:52
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The only real answer is to rotate more often. If you already do it every oil change, make a special trip in between.
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Sep 2, 2015 18:52
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Enourmo posted:The only real answer is to rotate more often. If you already do it every oil change, make a special trip in between. I've... I've never rotated my tires! 
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Sep 2, 2015 19:05
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Knifegrab posted:I've... I've never rotated my tires! Yea that's what I meant when I said that by the time they look worn down, it's too late. I'm not in the habit of doing mine either
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Sep 2, 2015 19:08
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It's been, oh, 20000 miles since I rotated my tires! I bought new tires 5000 miles ago
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Sep 2, 2015 19:09
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Knifegrab posted:But if my front tires wear quciker than my rears, and mechanics policies are to never rotate more worn to the rear, how will I be able to ever rotate my tires if I get all 4 at the same time, because my fronts will always be more worn than my rears and I imagine they will refuse to rotate. (No I cannot rotate myself I am big dumb babby). Your tires will have relatively constant grip during their lifetime until they are worn out. Like this:  (I don't know if this image is correct as I'm not sure of the source, but it illustrates what I mean). So, if the tires aren't bald, it shouldn't really matter which are in the rear. Rotating them will regularly will extend the life of all the tires and let you replace them all at once. You also aren't left with one set of tires having drastically different grip than the other. If one set of tires is excessively worn, then put those on the front so when bad stuff happens, it's predictable instead of having your car go into a spin. EDIT: I haven't rotated mine in a while. I need an alignment as one is wearing unevenly. Another wheel is slightly bent, so I left it on the rear to limit vibration. Right now, I have them on the car so I have the best grip available until the winter set goes on, then need to get new tires, wheels, and an alignment next spring. And I only have another season of life in the winter tires, so those are getting next winter. Uthor fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Sep 2, 2015 |
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Sep 2, 2015 19:11
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Looking for a new, fun but practical car in the $25k area. I plan on buying a 6spd GTI w/ lighting/sport packages. TrueCar says it is like $24.5k in my area. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this?
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Sep 2, 2015 20:32
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BlackMK4 posted:Looking for a new, fun but practical car in the $25k area. I plan on buying a 6spd GTI w/ lighting/sport packages. TrueCar says it is like $24.5k in my area. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this? If thats for a new MK7 that owns. I have a mk5 and mk6 both new were like 26 each. Good car choice btw. Get the APR stage 1 program in a few months for max fun for min dollars
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Sep 2, 2015 22:05
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BlackMK4 posted:Looking for a new, fun but practical car in the $25k area. I plan on buying a 6spd GTI w/ lighting/sport packages. TrueCar says it is like $24.5k in my area. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this? because...volkswagen? (I want one too but Im scared)
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Sep 2, 2015 22:26
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PaintVagrant posted:because...volkswagen? I'm scared too, but it is far and away more practical than a BRZ. I'm hitting a dealer after work since I haven't actually sat in or driven one yet.
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Sep 2, 2015 22:40
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I think the GTI is slated to get a center console refresh soon so if that's important to you, something to keep in mind.
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Sep 2, 2015 23:58
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Blackmk4, are you getting rid of your e46 wagon manual conversion?
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Sep 3, 2015 00:15
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Brand new Subaru Impreza makes a grinding sound on front outside wheel near apex on one particular corner in my drive. It's low-speed almost-180° turn and it seems to happen near throttle-on. It's happened twice at the same corner, at lower speeds than I would run my Cruze. Is this likely just VDC correcting potential understeer? I've noticed that the vehicle floats over hills and rolls a lot, but I've never understeered. I don't feel like I've been pushing the vehicle at all, though, so I haven't expected it to occur.
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Sep 3, 2015 00:33
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Cthulhuite posted:That's what it sounds like to me. When a wheel is out of alignment, especially when it's only by the smallest amount, it'll result in the shakes as the car goes faster - so what feels perfectly fine at 30mph when that wobble isn't noticeable becomes a shake and a judder when you're going 60 or 80. So I took it to a shop. Very reputable. The guy said the issue was that the bushings and sway bars were bad and the tires needed to be rebalanced and checked, but that the car was perfectly in alignment. Sound fishy? They're going to give me an estimate tomorrow. No idea how much something like that would cost.
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Sep 3, 2015 01:47
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Stupid car buying question: so I work for a company out of Chicago and go there regularly for work. I was bored looking up things and came across this for IL vehicle purchase - http://tax.illinois.gov/Publications/Sales/rntrrc/ST-58.pdf Since I live in SD I'm exempt from IL sales tax on a vehicle should I purchase one there. If I do that does that mean I also will not have to pay taxes in my state? Just documentation, title & license fees?
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Sep 3, 2015 02:00
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I don't know how SD does it but WA dings you for the sales tax when you register it for the first time.
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Sep 3, 2015 02:27
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I think, in IL, if you buy a car out of state, you must pay tax when you register in state. If you paid some of it in the other state, you get a credit for that. Don't quote me on this. Read the fine print. If I remember filing my state taxes right, you can claim a deductible if you pay more in the other state than IL would charge you.
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Sep 3, 2015 03:01
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flyboi posted:Stupid car buying question: so I work for a company out of Chicago and go there regularly for work. I was bored looking up things and came across this for IL vehicle purchase - http://tax.illinois.gov/Publications/Sales/rntrrc/ST-58.pdf Unless your state has really really lenient sales and use laws (or is an income tax state) , you will have to pay the tax one way or another. If you pay the IL sales tax often your home state will allow you to take a credit in the amount of the tax paid against your home states use tax. If you don't your home state will like charge you a use tax the first time you register it in your home state. Both sales and use taxes qualify in full as an itemized deduction in the year they are paid for federal purposes. Lord of Garbagemen fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 05:48
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I got two unrelated questions. First is: What's the general ppm of things they look for in a sniffer test? Is it at all feasible for me to cut a small hole in my trunk and feed through a remote that plugs into a paintball 20oz. CO2 tank? The remote's got a twisty top screwy bit on top meant to depress the pin valve in the tank. I figure maybe it'd work like a lovely needle if I didn't screw it in all the way. But I don't actually know if you can beat the test by flooding it with CO2. Do they use a temperature sensor? Question 2: This isn't about cars so much as stuff that used to be parts of cars. Like, turbochargers and alternators. I've been told that alternators are fine in rpm ranges from 2100 to about 7000. But turbos go at something stupid like 210,000 rpm to 50,000 rpm. This'd would be great for a really overpowered reducing pulley thing with lots of bushings and fixed-gear transmission shafts - but I can't think of anything I could afford to build a pulley out of that goes at 210,000 rpm.. But then I see pictures like this loving thing:  It's got the right number of wires on it, and if the story about it being from an F1 car is true, that thing on the left with the holes in it next to the exhaust intake is a liquid coolant port. I would prefer a long rod with plenty of bushings, but I'll never build a race-car. That's a loving alternator sharing a shaft with a turbo 1:1. Plus someone did this:   I think the turbo is being driven through the alternator in this case. But it still demonstrates that the two units can be run at comparable rpms. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-8BX7dUk5c Wood gas is what happens when you get wood burning but you don't give it enough oxygen. You get carbon monoxide and Hydrogen. They both want to burn real good. So if you get a thing that turns combustion into electricity on a pipe with woodgas going through it, and you let oxygen into it, you can get energy from woodgas. A gasifier is a thing that makes woodgas. I plan to build a gasifier. I figure I can go to a scrapyard and say, "Get me the *iest turbo and the *est alternator you have". And that'd be cheaper electricity than doing something to a gasoline-powered generator's carburetor. Is there a periodic trend among turbos to run faster or slower? Like, is blade radius an issue? I feel like this is something I should have learned in highschool phsyics. Ditto for alternators. Some must be ok with running faster than others. My hyosung mirage ran at about 7,000 rpms. The internet says that the redline is at 12,000. Surely the alternator was designed to work at something faster than 2100rpm.
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Sep 3, 2015 05:51
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That's a centrifugal supercharger, not a turbocharger. The belt driven one. Also its not 1 to 1 see the number of teeth on the alternator as compared to the supercharger. It looks overdriven (or underdriven, i cant remember) either way that supercharger is not spinning the same speed as the alternator.
Lord of Garbagemen fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 05:53
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DreadLlama posted:Question 2: Did you notice that alternators tend to have smaller pulleys than the drive pulley on the crankshaft? Most automotive alternators aren't designed to spin fast, because they don't need to. That F1 alternator does it probably because it weighs less than having a gearbox etc., but you aren't willing to spend F1 levels of money, I'm guessing. If you're looking to make a wood gas fueled turbo-generator for your house, you wouldn't be running it off of the turbocharger's shaft, anyway. Take the exhaust side of another turbo and attach the input to the exhaust of the primary; drive a planetary reduction box off of that shaft, to an alternator. You'll definitely want a wastegate to control the pressure and rpm of the alternator side, and that will allow the thing to adapt to load faster than trying to spin up the primary. What you'll be doing is making a wood-fueled gas generator, powering a turbine driven alternator. I wouldn't expect to get more than 2kW out of most automotive alternators, so you'll have to figure out where you'll source one large enough for your house's demands or how to make multiple alternators work. You'll go through all that trouble and math and design time, then look at the energy density of wood in an industrial gasifier unit, realize that you won't hit that with a homebrew device, and throw it all in the trash because you can't burn down a small forest every day to keep your house running. Not to mention that you'll have to shut it down periodically to clean out all the soot. If you make a single-stage gasifier, your turbos won't last long, the gas coming out of those is filthy, lots of tar and ash paticles that high rpm spinny things don't like. Your backyard will be dominated by a loud, stinky, dirty machine that I'm sure your neighbors will love. Look at all this for inspiration on buliding a working gas generator, if you want to gently caress around with this stuff for fun: Colin Furze
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Sep 3, 2015 06:29
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Yeah, the most you are going to get from even a fairly large alternator is around 160 amps @ 13.8VDC, which works out to 2200 watts. Honestly, you are better off blowing like 500 bucks on a 15kW (18kW surge rating) splitphase generator head and strapping it to any gas engine that can give you about 30hp at 3600rpm. Getting clever with turbo parts and alternators and belts and stuff is fun and all but it's not going to give you anywhere near the power output per dollar that the conventional method does, and will be less reliable. e: I am biased toward this because I have just such a generator head in my basement, most of the measurements figured out, and the engine sitting there waiting. The auto transfer switch is already installed and hooked up too. Just need to get the drat bridgeport up and running so I can make the adapter plate and the lathe running so I can make the adapter shaft, that's all 
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Sep 3, 2015 06:39
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kastein posted:Just need to get the drat bridgeport up and running so I can make the adapter plate and the lathe running so I can make the adapter shaft, that's all Do you know who has a brideport and works magic with a combination of candiadian redneckery and PHD education? AvE.
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Sep 3, 2015 08:13
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One of my friends a whopping 15 miles away also has his going, but hassling him into doing it both wastes his time and reduces my impetus to get my mill operational, as would your suggestion, so I'm going to pretend you didn't say that because it's far too logical an idea 
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Sep 3, 2015 08:32
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flyboi posted:Stupid car buying question: so I work for a company out of Chicago and go there regularly for work. I was bored looking up things and came across this for IL vehicle purchase - http://tax.illinois.gov/Publications/Sales/rntrrc/ST-58.pdf I live in Indiana, work in Kentucky, so this probably won't apply... When I bought a new car in KY, I paid sales tax at the dealer. They cut a check which I took to the Indiana BMV for the sales tax. I did not have to pay KY sales tax, since I live out of state and the vehicle is registered out of state.
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Sep 3, 2015 13:44
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Generally wherever you register the car you will pay the tax or lack thereof upon registration unless it's direct family members (vary by state)
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Sep 3, 2015 14:34
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Some states charge you at the time of purchase, others at the time of registration. Stupid.
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Sep 3, 2015 15:11
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PaintVagrant posted:Blackmk4, are you getting rid of your e46 wagon manual conversion? Yep. Bought a white 2016 6spd 4dr base GTI last night. Wanted the lighting package but it's not that big of a deal.
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Sep 3, 2015 16:42
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