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BlackMK4 posted:Yep. Bought a white 2016 6spd 4dr base GTI last night. Wanted the lighting package but it's not that big of a deal. I will live vicariously through your hopefully trouble free GTI ownership experience!
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Sep 3, 2015 23:51
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PaintVagrant posted:I will live vicariously through your hopefully trouble free GTI ownership experience! I like it a lot... and I have an appointment to have the APR flash done next week.
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Sep 4, 2015 01:51
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I own a 1992 U13 Nissan Bluebird SSS with an SR20DE. She's had a couple of minor issues including the common cam squirter issue, which I removed the valve cover and corrected, and an ignition issue that was solved with new leads. Now, and it could be my imagination, but she seems a little down on power. I opened the oil filler cap while it was running the other day and there's a pretty substantial amount of pressure coming out, which seems to be in time with the engine's running - seems to be pulses rather than a constant stream. I have just finished checking the PCV valve - because I'm unable to find anything better to do with it I sucked on it and got flow, and when blowing through it it held nicely and allowed no air to escape. I pulled off the air filter housing to check for oil there, and while there is a smell of oil on the filter there is no visual evidence of oil being dumped into the intake. This leads me to suspect either rings or valves. My thoughts with rings is that, if that is the case, the oil would become very dirty very quickly and most likely smell of combustion byproducts. So I guess that leaves a bent valve? I note that the engine is consuming NO oil. I have been monitoring it closely for the last couple of weeks and have noted absolutely no abnormal oil usage. Is it possible that the PCV valve is simply not passing as much as it should be, causing the excessive pressure? The other thing to note is that I have recently noted a valve cover gasket leak, causing a very small amount of oil spray over the engine bay - again, not enough to be causing a drop in oil levels. The oil is a nice coffee colour and does not smell of either combustion or petrol. Any advice anyone can give me would be very welcome - I guess the obvious answer is to do a compression check and perhaps leakdown?
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Sep 4, 2015 02:06
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So stoplights and manuals. Neutral while braking or no? I've been dailying a five-speed for several months now and for smoothness' sake I put it in neutral while braking to a stop. I just watched a video on the very basics of how to drive a manual car to see if there was something I missed, and the guy said you put unnecessary stress on your transmission if you leave it in neutral, so to avoid that you should always leave it in gear and downshift as you slow down. I do understand how a manual works with the clutch and syncros and all, so what stress is caused here if I just leave it in neutral and keep it smooth? I've mostly thought of rev-matching as racetrack business for people who are actually good at a manual and are driving to the car's absolute limits. The guy mentions fuel economy which frankly isn't a concern for me. I'm used to regularly dumping three digits into a 42-gallon tank. with 20 MPG being a far-off dream of those who drive a car that weighs less than 5,000 pounds, so now that I drive a Focus I don't really give a drat about fuel economy. The computer tells me I'm doing about 29 mpg average and I readily admit that I'm a total leadfoot so that's just fine in my book. Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 02:21
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Friar Zucchini posted:So stoplights and manuals. Neutral while braking or no? I've been dailying a five-speed for several months now and for smoothness' sake I put it in neutral while braking to a stop. I just watched a video on the very basics of how to drive a manual car to see if there was something I missed, and the guy said you put unnecessary stress on your transmission if you leave it in neutral, so to avoid that you should always leave it in gear and downshift as you slow down. I do understand how a manual works with the clutch and syncros and all, so what stress is caused here if I just leave it in neutral and keep it smooth? I've mostly thought of rev-matching as racetrack business for people who are actually good at a manual and are driving to the car's absolute limits. You could be starving parts of the transmission of oil if you coast in neutral for too long, but that depends on the design of the oil slinger(s) in your transmission; if you want to be certain you'll have to find a detailed diagram of the moving parts in it. Just so we're clear, though: don't keep your foot on the clutch pedal unless you are shifting; riding the clutch pedal is a surefire way to prematurely wear out your throwout bearing, which requires 95% of the work of replacing the clutch to replace, so you'll end up paying for a new clutch too. You don't need to downshift through all of your gears when you are coming to a stop. Just riding the one you're in until you are near idle rpm is usually fine, or just going down one gear if the engine wasn't spinning very fast. You don't need to be perfect to rev match, just close enough that the synchros don't need to work too much.
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Sep 4, 2015 03:11
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It really depends on the transmission design. The traditional 5 speed over/under countershaft design really doesn't care. Here's why: Input power comes in through the input shaft, and immediately drives the countershaft via the two gears at the very front of the unit. So the countershaft is always spinning, and slinging oil. From there, it spins the 1/2/3 mainshaft gears, which are just idling along on the mainshaft unless you're in gear. The 5th gear setup is generally different, as the synchro hub is on the end of the countershaft instead of being on the mainshaft to simplify the design. (And also because most 5 speeds I've seen are simply an old 4 speed design with a fifth gearset scabbed on on the far side of the midplate or outside the main case in a toploader.) So if you stop in gear with your foot on the clutch, you're loading the throwout bearing and that's it. If you stop in neutral with your foot off the clutch you are spinning the input shaft, the input shaft to mainshaft pocket bearing, the countershaft, the 1/2/3 mainshaft gears, and the 5th gear synchro hub. They're all under practically no load and slinging oil as they normally would. I keep saying 1/2/3 and 5th... 4th is special because in most 5 speeds it's your direct gear. AKA the 3/4 synchro sleeve simply slides forward and bridges the input shaft to the mainshaft across the pocket bearing and the countershaft and every mainshaft gear are just along for the ride. In fact rolling along in fourth gear in most transmissions is going to be roughly the same as idling in neutral, or revving in neutral. I'm leaving reverse gear and other things like that out of this because they are very rarely used, hours-of-operation wise, so it's not really worth worrying over. There is always debate about whether loading the throwout bearing for that long is good for it. I doubt it really matters, but you cannot deny that loading the bearing more (beyond the bare minimum that will keep the grease evenly distributed, which you easily exceed just shifting into gear the first time in every drive) is going to wear it out faster. Will it be faster enough to actually cause noticeable wear? I don't know and I don't care, idling in neutral doesn't hurt anything else so I just idle in neutral at lights. If I don't "know" the traffic pattern at a light, and didn't see it turn red, I'll work my way down through the gears, rev matching and engine braking, until either traffic starts moving or I need to stop. If I know the light I'll usually roll up to it in neutral idling and just grab the right gear when it's time to either keep moving or start moving. I doubt any of it really matters much unless you are absolutely horrible to your clutch and synchros, in which case, you know it (because you smell the clutch, or are lurching all over the place and giving your passengers whiplash and making pedestrians wonder if your car is broken or not) and should learn better. e: very little of this applies to weird poo poo like VAG and subaru transaxles because they are goofy setups with two shafts inside each other to drive the front diff and you should stare at how they're put together and come to your own conclusion on those.
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Sep 4, 2015 03:24
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Well Ford's attempts at new and different things seem to be well known lately because of how often they go wrong so I'd guess my transmission is pretty normal, which is what I was going for when I got the car. And no, I don't bother with the clutch unless I'm doing something with the gear shift. More important than internal parts (edit: on a car with under 4,000 miles on it), my leg doesn't get as tired that way. I figure with leaving it in neutral while braking, an immediate need to accelerate very quickly when I'd been intending to stop is such a rare thing that it's not worth the effort, plus how much putatively essential time does it really take to take it out of neutral, put it in the right gear, and initiate forward motion? I figure if traffic starts moving when I didn't expect it to, I'll take less time to resume normally scheduled programming than someone driving an automatic that isn't paying attention, and if they are paying attention I still won't take so much time as to actually hold up traffic. If it's really essential, third is easy to quickly get into from neutral and my car is geared so it's good for pretty much any speed above 17 mph (it's my standard highway acceleration gear, 4th gives me pretty much the same torque as 5th, i.e. none) and below that I'd probably be hosed anyway if I'm gonna get rammed by a truck that lost its brakes or whatever but it wouldn't hurt to try for second or first before I get pancaked.
Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 04:07
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wait, what was that someone said about the quote button not being the edit button?
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Sep 4, 2015 04:09
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I mostly agree with kaestein on this, except if I'm coming up on an unfamiliar light that happens to be red, I just throw it in neutral. Usually without using the clutch - I'll blip the throttle juuuuust enough to unload the transmission (transaxle in my case) and shove it into neutral. I always leave it in neutral, clutch out, if I know I'm not moving for at least 10-15 seconds. #1, I'm paranoid about wearing out the throwout bearing. #2, as much as I drive, my left leg just flat out gets tired when I'm holding the clutch that long. I also tend to nap in my car often (usually before work, or after work if I'm too tired to drive home, but often before walking into class too), which requires running the air conditioner - so my car has spent many, many hours idling simply to run the a/c (or heat, if I go out to nap on a lunch break at work in the winter). I've managed to fall into a deep enough sleep that setting several alarms on my cellphone didn't wake me, and wound up sleeping 3+ hours with the car running. When I had to leave the house in the middle of winter (family drama poo poo) and had nowhere to go, I left it idling in a Wal-Mart parking lot for about 6 hours just to keep the heater and radio working while I (attempted to) sleep in the back seat. I'm sure the transaxle didn't appreciate the extended idling, but the only damage so far (in years of napping in my car now and then) has been to my wallet, in that it drops my average MPG from 23 to 18 if I leave it running for 6 hours. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 07:48
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I drive a 2006 Ford Ranger XLT (2WD) with a little over 100k miles on it. My ABS and E-Brake light turned on while on the highway. I made sure my brakes were still working and I got it to the shop, but they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They also couldn't reproduce the issue by driving it around since the lights turned off when I turned off the engine. Brakes are fine, brake fluid levels are fine, but I'm a little bit uneasy driving this thing now. From what I've read this may be a sensor going, but I wanted to get AI's take.
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Sep 4, 2015 21:24
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I dont know much about manuals but mine feels just as tight as it did 22k and 2.5 years ago. I like to (mostly) baby it especially since I've had a throw out bearing squeal ever since I got the car. Ill revmatch downshift to 3 and once I drop below 1k Ill shift to neutral. Revmatching 2nd and 1st requires more accuracy or else you get the classic head bob. What would be worse for a clutch in the long term? Giving it too many rpms at a stop and letting the clutch out slower for a smoother start, or not giving it enough and bogging the engine?
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Sep 4, 2015 22:24
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Any recommendations on keeping paint scratches from rusting? Someone tapped my bumper, leaving some scratches in the paint. That or deeply embedding their white paint in mine.
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Sep 4, 2015 22:24
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What is your car? There's a very good chance that's not metal under the paint there.
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Sep 4, 2015 22:27
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Cage posted:I dont know much about manuals but mine feels just as tight as it did 22k and 2.5 years ago. I like to (mostly) baby it especially since I've had a throw out bearing squeal ever since I got the car. Ill revmatch downshift to 3 and once I drop below 1k Ill shift to neutral. Revmatching 2nd and 1st requires more accuracy or else you get the classic head bob. No matter what the quicker you let the clutch out, the less it will wear (provided it's not slipping/pressure plate springs are strong enough). You have to find a balance between smooth launching (better for your comfort) and letting it out too quick (better for clutch life). Bogging the engine doesn't affect the clutch at all, nor does stalling. I don't think they should do any lasting harm to the engine either, but I could be mistaken about that; it's just a rough ride afaik.
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Sep 4, 2015 22:33
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Ive always wondered if stalling/lurchy shifting can damage motor or trans mounts, or do some other sort of collateral damage from the engine basically bucking around inside the bay?
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Sep 4, 2015 22:42
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So I ended up getting a X3 diesel to replace my car. I've never owned a diesel before. Living in South Dakota should I be using 1 or 2? They gave me some additive I can put in the fuel during the winter to keep it from freezing but I got confused when they were explaining the differences and which to use and forgot which of the 2 they wanted me to use.
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Sep 4, 2015 22:44
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PaintVagrant posted:Ive always wondered if stalling/lurchy shifting can damage motor or trans mounts, or do some other sort of collateral damage from the engine basically bucking around inside the bay? Yes, also clutch damage.
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Sep 4, 2015 22:47
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flyboi posted:So I ended up getting a X3 diesel to replace my car. I've never owned a diesel before. Living in South Dakota should I be using 1 or 2? They gave me some additive I can put in the fuel during the winter to keep it from freezing but I got confused when they were explaining the differences and which to use and forgot which of the 2 they wanted me to use. Read your owner's manual.
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Sep 4, 2015 22:49
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Leperflesh posted:Read your owner's manual. It says Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel ASTM D 975-XX and to use "Winter Diesel" in the winter. It doesn't note if I should use 1 or 2.
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Sep 4, 2015 22:58
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Godholio posted:Yes, also clutch damage. Luckily my significant other doesnt drive my car much  Shes actually pretty smooth, but she insists on driving my civic si like it has 3k redline (it doesnt like shifting under 4k, as it makes basically no power under 4k) and doing this thing where she clutches in if she has to slow down at all...then coasting in neutral for a while, picking a gear she thinks it should be in and letting the clutch out. Today we worked on blipping to match road speed and engine speed, but shes still getting the hang.
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Sep 4, 2015 23:14
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flyboi posted:So I ended up getting a X3 diesel to replace my car. I've never owned a diesel before. Living in South Dakota should I be using 1 or 2? They gave me some additive I can put in the fuel during the winter to keep it from freezing but I got confused when they were explaining the differences and which to use and forgot which of the 2 they wanted me to use. Welcome new diesel owner, i too have a diesel with under 1000 miles on it. If yours is brand new you will want to drive the piss out of it. The old school vag diesel goons confirmed that you want to drive it hard for the first 10k to really help the diesel rings seat properly against the iron block. This is vw but it probably applies the same https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=252501.
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Sep 5, 2015 00:45
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flyboi posted:It says Ultra-Low Sulfer Diesel ASTM D 975-XX and to use "Winter Diesel" in the winter. It doesn't note if I should use 1 or 2. You should use #2 diesel for regular driving. #1 is essentially winter diesel-it has a much lower gelling temperature than #2 but the tradeoff is that it doesn't have as much energy per unit when burned. Most places sell a blend of the two in the winter.
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Sep 5, 2015 02:21
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I own a 2007 Ford Fiesta 1.25 Duratec (I'm in Europe obviously) with something like 80k km on the clock. Last night, after half an hour of driving and another ten minutes idling, I started driving again and heard a loud pop. Soon after that I noticed my temperature indicator was way in the red. Stopped the engine for ten minutes, turned it on, it went back to normal, so I drove a few more km, it overheated again, pause, repeat... Made it back home. Checked the coolant fluid, the tank is completely empty. I plan on refilling the coolant fluid and seeing what happens. Google says it could be a leak in the cooling system, a blown gasket or a crack in the engine. I'll take the car to be serviced on Monday but in the meantime, does the pop I heard last night have anything to do with the coolant disappearing? Any idea what I'm looking at in terms of cost?
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Sep 5, 2015 10:06
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mcustic posted:I own a 2007 Ford Fiesta 1.25 Duratec (I'm in Europe obviously) with something like 80k km on the clock. Last night, after half an hour of driving and another ten minutes idling, I started driving again and heard a loud pop. Soon after that I noticed my temperature indicator was way in the red. Stopped the engine for ten minutes, turned it on, it went back to normal, so I drove a few more km, it overheated again, pause, repeat... Made it back home. Checked the coolant fluid, the tank is completely empty. Cooling system hose blown off somewhere.
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Sep 5, 2015 10:59
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spog posted:Cooling system hose blown off somewhere. Thanks. Tried pouring water into the system to see what's up, it just drained from the bottom of the engine as fast as I was able to pour.
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Sep 5, 2015 11:36
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mcustic posted:Thanks. Tried pouring water into the system to see what's up, it just drained from the bottom of the engine as fast as I was able to pour. Could be an easy fix with just reattaching the hose and retightening. Check your radiator fan. I've got a suspicion that it doesn't work You drive around and get the engine nice and warm, but natural airflow keeps it from getting too hot. You sit for 10mins, them drive a few km through town, so you already hot engine doesn't get enough airflow, the fan doesn't kick in, so the coolant gets too hot, the pressure rises and a manky hose connection fails.
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Sep 5, 2015 11:57
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mcustic posted:Thanks. Tried pouring water into the system to see what's up, it just drained from the bottom of the engine as fast as I was able to pour. So get under the car and see where it's pouring from?
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Sep 5, 2015 16:05
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Leperflesh posted:What is your car? There's a very good chance that's not metal under the paint there. '03 Ford Ranger. Someone else mentioned its a steel bumper.
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Sep 5, 2015 19:08
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Is it possible for a bad fuel pump to cause a no spark condition as well? I've got crank but no start, just died on me in traffic yesterday. (99 dodge dakota 2wd 6cyl). I had no spark so I spent yesterday troubleshooting issues on that side but it's not the crank position sensor or ignition coil. Then I realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when the key was on. I tested the fuel pump relay and it's fine, even bypassed it with a wire to try and make the fuel pump run continuously but not a peep. Of course it's in the tank so I'd like to make sure I'm on the right track before tearing everything apart. Other than the pcm I don' t know what else could cause a no spark/no fuel situation since I've already tried the crank sensor. I have no check engine lights/codes thrown. ChesterJT fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Sep 5, 2015 |
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Sep 5, 2015 19:16
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ChesterJT posted:Is it possible for a bad fuel pump to cause a no spark condition as well? It could be the ignition switch. But if you jumped the relay, and it didn't come on, it's not the ecu or the switch. It's either the wiring between the tank and the relay, or the pump itself. So it sounds like you've got multiple points of failure. How are you testing for spark?
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Sep 5, 2015 19:33
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So I'm sitting at the Acura dealership service department right now because my TSX transmission has basically shat the bed. A mechanic told me only Acura had the xmsn oil level tool to check it, and then I get here and the dealership says it's fine. So now I'm paying $155 to have the problem diagnosed and I'm sweating in fear of what the problem will be and what it will cost. Anyone here with an Acura who has had transmission problems with it before? It's not wanting to go from 2nd to 3rd now, and it revs really high in second before it will shift. It's an auto transmission but when it started doing this today I drove it in "S" mode manually all the way here which didn't make it easier to drive because it still didn't want to shift up until it ran the RPM up to 6000.
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Sep 5, 2015 20:28
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life is killing me posted:So I'm sitting at the Acura dealership service department right now because my TSX transmission has basically shat the bed. A mechanic told me only Acura had the xmsn oil level tool to check it, and then I get here and the dealership says it's fine. So now I'm paying $155 to have the problem diagnosed and I'm sweating in fear of what the problem will be and what it will cost. In a normal hydraulic transmission, usually that means that the vacuum line has come loose. I don't know much about modern electronic transmissions, but maybe there's a problem with the throttle position sensor? Is that how the trans gets its signal for how much throttle is being applied? It sounds like it thinks you've got your foot down, so it holds the gear until redline because it thinks you're racin' or something. Does this sound reasonable?
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Sep 5, 2015 20:37
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spog posted:Could be an easy fix with just reattaching the hose and retightening. IOwnCalculus posted:So get under the car and see where it's pouring from? Called the garage, they said I could take the car in today, so I had it towed. I trust those guys because they are cheap and efficient, so they'll handle it. I mentioned your scenario and they say it's the most likely option. Thank you for answering.
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Sep 5, 2015 21:01
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Raluek posted:It could be the ignition switch. But if you jumped the relay, and it didn't come on, it's not the ecu or the switch. It's either the wiring between the tank and the relay, or the pump itself. It's irrelevant now but I pulled different plug wires, tested near metal and no spark. Also used inline spark tester and voltmeter at various places before/inbetween/after the ignition coil and distributor. However, I just realized I had a blown fuse for the auto shutdown relay. Now that it's been replaced I have spark but still no fuel. Already checked everything fuel pump/relay related so apparently it's just the pump and it must have blown that fuse when it died I guess. Fun day ahead of me!
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Sep 5, 2015 21:30
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Raluek posted:In a normal hydraulic transmission, usually that means that the vacuum line has come loose. I don't know much about modern electronic transmissions, but maybe there's a problem with the throttle position sensor? Is that how the trans gets its signal for how much throttle is being applied? It sounds like it thinks you've got your foot down, so it holds the gear until redline because it thinks you're racin' or something. It does, though this is progression from a problem earlier this week where it was having trouble switching between 1st and 2nd gears from a complete or near-complete stop. It would delay the shift, rev up high to like 4k-5k RPM, then shift hard and rock the car back and forth and make a loud thud. So basically, today, the problem evolved into the xmsn not wanting to shift from 2nd. I put it into "s" manual mode and tried it that way, still rev'd higher than 5k RPM before it would let me shift into third, and still was a really hard shift. It's like 2nd was Neutral; when in 2nd, the car wouldn't be in gear at all, so it would just rev high like I was parked in N hitting the gas. The other gears have been fine from the beginning and even today, so I have no idea what the gently caress. I have no warranty and would love for this to be a TPS issue as it seems like it would cost way less than having them take the gearbox out and apart to find the culprit. And this is the dealership we're talking about here--they're not exactly going to UNDERcharge me. The dealership said it's not the xmsn oil level, so they are going to diagnose it and keep it for a few days, as they said they probably won't get to diagnose it today. So they gave me a loaner, and that thing rules and now I want a TLX. e: I'm also not really enamored with the fact the xmsn is making GBS threads the bed when my car isn't at 100k miles yet, leading me to suspect that the previous owner of the car unknowingly abused it because they didn't know how to drive properly. I had to get the dealership to turn the brake rotors when I got the car because of pulsating brakes, for instance, so it seems to me they abused the gently caress out of the brakes. So it's not really a stretch, in my mind, to think the previous owner also maybe didn't ever use the parking brake or something and just maybe wore the gears down. life is killing me fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Sep 5, 2015 |
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Sep 5, 2015 22:33
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So the driver's power window just stopped working in my '06 Forester. For the past month or so it has been "laggy", as in I would press the button and after a delay of some seconds it would then do it's thing and roll all the way down since it's one of those automatic windows. As of yesterday it doesn't work at all. Does this sound symptomatic of an issue with the switch or the motor? How simple would it be to fix either of those things myself? For whatever its worth, the switch is much mushier than any of the others on the console. And thankfully it's stuck closed so it's not exactly an urgent matter, but a "when I can get to it" thing.
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Sep 5, 2015 22:57
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My brother is looking at a pair of Blazers: 1. 2002 Blazer, 128k miles, 4WD, 4.3L V6. $4400. 2. 2005 Trailblazer, 152k miles, 4WD, 4.2L I6, $4999. They both seem priced right around here, but which would be the better vehicle in terms of reliability? I know nothing about either engines. The '05 is newer but higher miles and more expensive, but is the engine better?
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Sep 6, 2015 00:15
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I don't know how being 4wd affects either, but I know that the 4.3 is a tank of a motor with regular maintenance. I know for a fact the one in my dad's 2000 S-10 that was used as a work truck (and thus heavily abused and driven hard) is up near 250k without anything too major exploding (ie, having a whole trans replaced or something similar), and that parts for it do tend to be cheap with repairs being fairly easy. I've never really heard anything good or bad about the 4.2, but know GM stuck it in tons of stuff in the early 2000's.
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Sep 6, 2015 01:10
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I also noticed the smell of coolant from the Trailblazer, which has me worried, though either/both will be checked out by a real mechanic before he buys so that'll be looked into.
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Sep 6, 2015 01:17
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So here's my quandary, I currently have a 2008 Honda Fit with 83k on the clock, I have an upgrade lined up in a 2010 Honda Element with <10k on the clock. I'm getting an excellent price on it, but it's a little rough having been parked on the street in Hoboken for the past year and some change, only driven to be moved for street sweeping. I tested it yesterday and it's pretty solid, needs a thorough detailing, and the brakes are a bit soft; almost every problem I found can be solved by a tuneup and cleaning. My friend had an element years ago, I really dig these cars. Just curious what you guys think about it and if I should keep an eye out for anything. It's a solid upgrade for me, less cramped, more cargo space for my work equipment, better finish, much quieter on the road; the only downsides are losing 10 mpg of gas mileage and more debt for me.
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Sep 6, 2015 02:04
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