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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Wash it in warm soapy water first to get rid of any mold-release agent. Otherwise, no.
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Sep 8, 2015 16:15
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Also yourself, probably, if you're posting on these forums.
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Sep 8, 2015 16:16
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Wash it in warm soapy water first to get rid of any mold-release agent. Otherwise, no. yeah I do that anyway to get my greasy mitt prints off after cleaning off the mold lines. thanks
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Sep 8, 2015 16:17
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If it's Reaper Bones resin don't prime at all, the primer will gently caress it up, just start painting. Otherwise no difference.
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Sep 8, 2015 16:20
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Takkaryx posted:If it's Reaper Bones resin don't prime at all, the primer will gently caress it up, just start painting. Otherwise no difference. I've primed Bones with Army Painter spray and it was fine.
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Sep 8, 2015 16:42
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Yeah, but what happens when they tweak their paint recipe?
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Sep 8, 2015 17:39
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Z the IVth posted:Sculpting is all about practice practice and even more practice along with a healthy dose of borrowing designs and techniques of others. For mechanical objects particularly look at how the AFV and Gundam modellers do their superdetailing and port those techniques over. Do you have any links to that stuff? I wouldn't mind a book or whatever (so long as it's English or at least comprehensible if I can't read moon runes). My experience with Gundam poo poo is that I once built some police robot from some anime when I was 14, and I don't even think that was technically a "Gundam". I really have no idea where to even start looking, and all the stuff I could find about "super detailing" is about painting. Z the IVth posted:The overlapping armor plates or complex polygons are made with magic sculpt - I glob a big lump on and sand/carve it to shape. This is actually the part I was most curious about, and I think that's enough information for me to at least start loving around. I can generally manage green stuff, although I've been questioning my ability to smooth it as much as I'd like. I think I should get a bright-rear end light for working on sculpts (I have overall-good lighting, but I find using a super-bright light helps me pick out minor problems). I've forgotten so much of the stuff I used to know about modeling.  P.S.: Your Homeworld-y spaceships on your site are rad!
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Sep 8, 2015 18:33
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berzerkmonkey posted:Also, thanks for blurring out your collectible tentacle porn statue(?) in that photo. Piece of art that is. Made from a bottle of plastic weld, one pair of pliers and two sprue cutters. I figured the fridge trick when I realised I had to microwave the stuff in winter to get it soft enough to stick, I figured the reverse would be true when I wanted it to come off. 
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Sep 8, 2015 18:37
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Z the IVth posted:Piece of art that is. Made from a bottle of plastic weld, one pair of pliers and two sprue cutters. I can't really picture it. Unless ...like... the two sprue cutters are trying to get into the opening of the plastic weld bottle, while the pliers are coming in from the other end? It's... kinda hot, I guess?
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Sep 8, 2015 18:52
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Cutty Glue Man?
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Sep 8, 2015 19:48
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Z, I don't care what SRM says about you, you're a good man. drat fine tutorial!
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Sep 8, 2015 20:16
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Avenging Dentist posted:Do you have any links to that stuff? I wouldn't mind a book or whatever (so long as it's English or at least comprehensible if I can't read moon runes). My experience with Gundam poo poo is that I once built some police robot from some anime when I was 14, and I don't even think that was technically a "Gundam". I really have no idea where to even start looking, and all the stuff I could find about "super detailing" is about painting. The Forgeworld Modelling Masterclass books are a good start. Having a look at the various military modelling magazines or even googling "superdetailing AFV model" will get you loads of hits and even scanned articles. You've gotta be flexible with techniques, lots of stuff can be ported across different crafts and hobbies - if you stick to just pure "miniatures" for your inspiration you'll run into difficulties. I've read tutorials on carpentry, jewellery-making, prop-making, doll-making, woodworking and all sorts of other weird stuff. Another good book for modelling is ABAKAN 2288 by Kallamity For anime/Gundam stuff, most of the websites are in Japanese, and I can't read moonspeak. If you're lucky they post WIP shots and you can figure out what they're doing from there. If there is something they do really well in addition to tentacles, it's making excellent pictorial instructions. Some places I've found useful before: Sci-Fi Modelling Maschinen Krieger (Jap): http://www.aurora.dti.ne.jp/~kuruppo/dark/newrugm.html More Maschinen Krieger (Eng): http://makadi3000.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/SAFS%20SNAKE%20EYE Gundam (Jap): http://peck2003.web.fc2.com/ Appleseed/GITS: http://homepage1.nifty.com/musuke/kou_menu.html Scratchbuild Sci-fi planes (Silpheed, Supersylph): http://sparrow.o.oo7.jp/ Miniatures Great balsa modelling tutorial: http://www.virtualscratchbuilder.com/ The other Germy: http://www.germy.co.uk/ Agis: http://agisn.de/html/miniatures.html Ultrawerke: http://ultrawerke.blogspot.co.uk/2007/04/now-we-are-going-to-complete-rust.html Matakisihi's Tea House (this guy gets poo poo done, unlike the rest of us, 4 gaming systems a year, jesus!): http://www.matakishi.com/index.htm Avenging Dentist posted:This is actually the part I was most curious about, and I think that's enough information for me to at least start loving around. I can generally manage green stuff, although I've been questioning my ability to smooth it as much as I'd like. I think I should get a bright-rear end light for working on sculpts (I have overall-good lighting, but I find using a super-bright light helps me pick out minor problems). I've forgotten so much of the stuff I used to know about modeling. Don't use greenstuff. It won't work as the cured greenstuff shreds rather than sand properly. Use Magic Sculpt - I think in the US Apoxie Sculpt might be a similar type of thing? You need something which cures hard and brittle. Greenstuff still has that small amount of elasticity after curing which makes it impossible to sand. These days even when I need to use greenstuff for sculpting I cut it with Magic Sculpt so I can sand the final product. TheCosmicMuffet posted:I can't really picture it. Unless ...like... the two sprue cutters are trying to get into the opening of the plastic weld bottle, while the pliers are coming in from the other end? Behold, the ADTRW tentacle monster on my desk, uncensored.   BULBASAUR posted:Z, I don't care what SRM says about you, you're a good man. drat fine tutorial!  what does he say? He's the guy who always brings up robodongs isn't he.
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Sep 8, 2015 21:21
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Z the IVth posted:The Forgeworld Modelling Masterclass books are a good start. Having a look at the various military modelling magazines or even googling "superdetailing AFV model" will get you loads of hits and even scanned articles. You've gotta be flexible with techniques, lots of stuff can be ported across different crafts and hobbies - if you stick to just pure "miniatures" for your inspiration you'll run into difficulties. I've read tutorials on carpentry, jewellery-making, prop-making, doll-making, woodworking and all sorts of other weird stuff. Another good book for modelling is ABAKAN 2288 by Kallamity Nope, I'm the dong identifier. Also re: ADTRW tentacle monster Would!
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Sep 8, 2015 21:26
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Thanks for all the info, Z the IVth!Z the IVth posted:Don't use greenstuff. It won't work as the cured greenstuff shreds rather than sand properly. I've actually had good luck sanding green stuff with really fine-grit sandpaper, but I'm just using it for gap filling at the moment. I've been messing with ProCreate too, which is sandable apparently, and seems like a good option for organic shapes at least. So far, it seems like I want to use greenstuff for gap-filling, ProCreate for sculpting, and Magic Sculp for sanding/carving. Does that seem sane?
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Sep 8, 2015 21:45
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So I'm in the middle of painting my Eldar Kill Team with this horrible pink color scheme to offend the eyes (thanks whoever recommended that Vallejo Flourescent Pink, it's screaming) and I'm having a dilemma. On a lot of the Eldar paint jobs I see in the Codex and on the boxes, they have white helmets, and while I know I can ignore all that, I can't decide which color to paint them. I think it clashes pretty offensively, but I don't know if it's too much on top of my pastel pink for my theme of "in the grim darkness of the fuchsia." This is one almost complete mook and support gun, and then I painted one of the crew's helmets white to see what it looks like in comparison.   Sorry for crappy phone pics, but would you guys go pink or white to annoy srs warhams the most?
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Sep 8, 2015 21:53
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Avenging Dentist posted:Thanks for all the info, Z the IVth! I use Magic Sculpt for everything. I only add the greenstuff when I need to adjust the consistency to get a slightly more elastic mix or if I need to sculpt. I suspect (thought I cannot confirm) that Magic Sculpt + Greenstuff = something similar to pro-create. If you are making something big go with straight Magic Sculpt: Magic Sculp over a polymer clay skull and soldered paperclip skeleton (WiPs from skeleton up)               GaryLeeLoveBuckets posted:So I'm in the middle of painting my Eldar Kill Team with this horrible pink color scheme to offend the eyes (thanks whoever recommended that Vallejo Flourescent Pink, it's screaming) and I'm having a dilemma. On a lot of the Eldar paint jobs I see in the Codex and on the boxes, they have white helmets, and while I know I can ignore all that, I can't decide which color to paint them. I think it clashes pretty offensively, but I don't know if it's too much on top of my pastel pink for my theme of "in the grim darkness of the fuchsia." Both: 
Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Sep 8, 2015 |
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Sep 8, 2015 21:54
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Z the IVth posted:I use Magic Sculpt for everything. I only add the greenstuff when I need to adjust the consistency to get a slightly more elastic mix or if I need to sculpt. I suspect (thought I cannot confirm) that Magic Sculpt + Greenstuff = something similar to pro-create. That's about what I've heard. I'll give Magic Sculp a shot. I do really like the elasticity/stickiness of Green Stuff for filling gaps in minis I've bought though (especially when you have to do something like sculpt on a single finger for an open hand at 28mm).
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Sep 8, 2015 23:29
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Finished up an Interrogator Chaplain in Terminator armor for these guys! The Chaplain-y bits are from Seraphicus, the Dark Vengeance chaplain model, while the rest are from the current Deathwing kit and Dark Angels upgrade sprue. Not thrilled with his cape, but I'm happy with him overall:    
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Sep 9, 2015 01:59
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You should first wash a metal model in something called, "rotozip metal buffing bit." I use a razor blade to remove all the flash contact points and will even square-off some edges (the sharp tip of a cape, for instance) then buff the whole model. Hard edges means the paint will just rob off, want to wear them down just a bit first. Rinse, dry, then base coat.SRM posted:Finished up an Interrogator Chaplain in Terminator armor for these guys! The Chaplain-y bits are from Seraphicus, the Dark Vengeance chaplain model, while the rest are from the current Deathwing kit and Dark Angels upgrade sprue. Not thrilled with his cape, but I'm happy with him overall: The sculpting on that helmet is so indistinct, you did very well by successfully getting the teeth to stand-out.
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Sep 9, 2015 02:13
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For sprays, the Tamiya Primer and various yellows work fine, right?
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Sep 9, 2015 04:53
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SRM I really dig the pose an style of this chaplain
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Sep 9, 2015 05:08
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BULBASAUR posted:SRM I really dig the pose an style of this chaplain
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Sep 9, 2015 14:28
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Look at this garbage.  I broke a lengthy hiatus from miniature painting with that miniature, and now I regret everything. That being said, it's a really hard miniature to paint. The skin is absent any texture, it's covered in bling, and the hair... How do you paint hair without doing the basecoat/wash/drybrush tango? Because as you can see, it doesn't look good.
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Sep 9, 2015 17:17
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Any suggestions for a seated 30mmish figure? Something sitting on a bench or like a coach driver. Bonus points if it's wearing robes. Most importantly something that can be bought individually or in bits. Thanks.
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Sep 9, 2015 17:22
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Darren MacLennan posted:How do you paint hair without doing the basecoat/wash/drybrush tango? Because as you can see, it doesn't look good. Glaze medium, 3+ levels of individual highlights.
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Sep 9, 2015 17:34
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Darren MacLennan posted:Look at this garbage. The skin definitely needs a wash to pick out the details, it looks like latex right now. The hair looks fine, though. Try not to be so hard on yourself.
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Sep 9, 2015 17:47
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An Angry Bug posted:The skin definitely needs a wash to pick out the details, it looks like latex right now. The hair looks fine, though. Try not to be so hard on yourself. You're very kind.  I think that I tried to do much and pulled a ligament, artistically speaking.
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Sep 9, 2015 18:00
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Darren MacLennan posted:Look at this garbage. The hair goes from blue black to white and I think that might be the issue. Maybe try a very dark grey base, a blue or purple wash with a medium grey highlight and if you feel sassy an even smaller and lighter just the very peaks of the hair highlight? Very few things on a mini should ever be truly white, least of all eyes or edge highlights. Just my 2 cents.
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Sep 9, 2015 18:06
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Yeah, the reason the hair looks weird is because it spans almost the entire range of values - the highlights and the recesses wouldn't be so far apart. If you want light hair, do the recesses in a midtone bluish grey. If you want dark hair, do the highlights in a midtone bluish grey.
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Sep 9, 2015 18:13
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Darren MacLennan posted:How do you paint hair without doing the basecoat/wash/drybrush tango? Because as you can see, it doesn't look good. The first thing I thought was 'well, at least the hair is kind of interesting'. Flesh needs a contrasting base color to build from. No matter how porcelain you want it, you should start with something slightly dull, so that when you apply your desired color, it looks alright. The purple parts look like they might be ok, they're just a little messy, and some touching up and shading around where it meets the flesh would help a lot. Try using a wash like it was a lining tool around the edge of the clothing. The hair is kind of interesting as is, and I think you might just be kind of tunnel visioning on this, because you're getting back into it, and have been staring at it too long. Try to pull the rest of it together, and then throw it somewhere for a while so you can forget about it. Paint something else. IMO the hair kind of reminds me of smoke or something. I have no idea what you were going for, I guess if you wanted it to feel like real 'hair', it's missing brush work that would make that clear, because the drybrushing technique you used is just making small pointillism kind of splotches (which tends to happen with drybrushing, which is why you don't usually drybrush a whole big thing unless you don't mind that kind of dusty/splotchy look). Try just picking out the braided knives in her hair, too. It looks extra bad right now because it's not finished, and stopping half way through to be annoyed with how a technique turned out doesn't serve you well until you're good enough that you can actually tell the difference in terms of impact on a final product.
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Sep 9, 2015 18:17
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Ditto what Peirzak said. Also, part of her hair isn't actually hair, it's like a tiara sorta headdress. Darkening the hair completely and picking out the headdress in gold or silver will give you more eye-pleasing contrast.
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Sep 9, 2015 18:35
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:
I think that this time, I'm going to come back to the model later - there's certain parts of the model that have been drowned in paint due to poor decision making, and I'm going to try the techniques that you're describing on a "clean" model. Once it's stripped, I'll repaint it and repost. Thanks to all concerned for your kind input and words of encouragement.
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Sep 9, 2015 19:26
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Is there a fairly-reliable way of figuring out the actual colors for paint ranges? What I really want is a set of physical swatches that I can look at. Vallejo has PDFs of their ranges. Are those at all accurate if I printed them?
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Sep 10, 2015 06:44
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Avenging Dentist posted:Is there a fairly-reliable way of figuring out the actual colors for paint ranges? What I really want is a set of physical swatches that I can look at. Vallejo has PDFs of their ranges. Are those at all accurate if I printed them? Not only will they not be accurate if you print them, but they're probably also not even accurate being displayed on your monitor (welcome to the world of professional color). They'll be close enough though unless you have a distinguishing eye / work in marketing. And having a proof professionally printed with the correct color space would probably be too expensive for what you'd be using it for.
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Sep 10, 2015 07:02
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Drone posted:Not only will they not be accurate if you print them, but they're probably also not even accurate being displayed on your monitor (welcome to the world of professional color). Well, I know they're really bad on my monitor (not least because I never bothered to calibrate it), but I was hoping that printing it at Kinko's would give me something a little closer to reality. While I really like the VMC range, their color chart is way off on my monitor. I guess I could go to Kinko's and see how much it costs to print it out decent-like and then compare it to the paints I do have. In a way, I miss when I was dumb and just used Citadel paints, even when their range didn't have the colors I really needed; at least those are in every store so I can look at the pots.
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Sep 10, 2015 07:17
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If it helps, nerd-made PDF for Reaper MSP posted on the Reaper forums: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/31611-color-charts-msp-and-rpp/page-6
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Sep 10, 2015 08:06
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Base Emitter posted:If it helps, nerd-made PDF for Reaper MSP posted on the Reaper forums: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/31611-color-charts-msp-and-rpp/page-6 That might help, thanks! I've been debating if I should grab some skin tones from Reaper, since they come in triads, which might make life easier compared to VMC.
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Sep 10, 2015 08:10
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The original PDF reaper posted in the OP organizes by triads, but its pretty old and doesn't include a lot of the more recently released paints. Although, if you're after skin tones that might not matter.
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Sep 10, 2015 08:16
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Posting because this is literally so good my eyes are bleeding. Another from Dave Soper and most likely the slayer sword 2015 winner.      
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Sep 10, 2015 12:39
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