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Larrymer posted:2001 Chevy Silverado 1500, 5.3L V8, RWD. 4l60e trans, 125k miles. On the left side of that first pic is your driveshaft support bearing. You are seeing that grease coming out of a slip joint where 2 pieces of driveshaft come together. It is filled with grease and designed to compensate for minor driveline movement. It appears the little rubber seal is chewed up and the grease is starting to seek freedom. I'm sure you can buy a new seal, but its not a crisis.
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Sep 10, 2015 04:21
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Great news everyone! Turns out I just ripped a hole in a vacuum line. Thanks for helping me realize that dialectric grease does not conduct electricity.
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Sep 10, 2015 05:01
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2007 Civic Si (blue, naturally) Got into my car to drive home from work today, and I was hooking up my iphone to my aux cable. Flipped on the stereo and immediately it started making a LOUD rhythmic thumping from the speakers. I panicked and slapped the power button. Unhooked the aux cable/phone, turned it back on..immediately more thumping. Speaker-blowing type of loud. I turned the volume down to zero, still thumping loud as gently caress, no volume change. Tapped power button to turn it off. Got home, went to take a video of it. Turned car back on after it sat for 15 minutes or so, stereo worked fine. Turned car off, turned it back on, big POP and then back to rhythmic thumping. I took a vid on my phone, I will edit the post with a youtube link. No idea what the gently caress could be doing this, assume its a short or a fuse going bad or something... https://youtu.be/pQR-ErcXq4A
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Sep 10, 2015 23:42
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I knocked the mirror off the passenger side of my car. It's a motorized mirror and I need to fix it. Car Details: 2009 Ford Focus SE The mirror is motorized, but I got lucky: the motor arm wasn't broken. Just the mirror glass, plastic mirror backing and plastic cover broke. I checked out the ford replacement part website and found: 1) Door Mirror - $92.73 http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/P...ord&model=Focus 2) Door Mirror Cover - $34.23 http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/P...ord&model=Focus 3) Door Mirror Glass - $62.02 http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/P...ord&model=Focus I want to make sure I'm getting the right thing, and I have enough experience to know that part lists like this can be deceiving to the un-initiated. A) Is the door mirror part everything? (Motor, cover, mirror, interior pieces) B) Does the mirror glass part come with the plastic backing, or is it just the glass? C) What alternatives do I have to purchasing the parts directly from Ford? D) Where can I go in the Boston/Cambridge/Belmont MA area to pick these parts up today? Today is my day off and I'm kicking myself for being a klutz.  Thanks for the help.
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Sep 11, 2015 12:34
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Those are the parts I'd start with. As far as where to pick them up locally...a dealer is the only brick and mortar location that might have them in stock. They might not. If you've got a junkyard nearby there's probably a couple of cars with intact mirrors. No matter the source, you can expect the cover to be unpainted.
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Sep 11, 2015 15:51
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Dobbs_Head posted:A) Is the door mirror part everything? (Motor, cover, mirror, interior pieces) B) If it's the middle bit in the diagram then probably not, if not, then maybe? C) Rockauto appears to have some of the parts you want. Don't worry too much about painting the cover, the part looks small enough that you could do a decent rattle job on it and it doesn't sit next to any other painted panels to compare it to 
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Sep 11, 2015 18:10
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My Continental DWSes need replacing before this winter. I hear they stopped making them. What are the best choices now?
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Sep 12, 2015 01:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I hear they stopped making them. ??? There's plenty of sizes available on TireRack.
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Sep 12, 2015 01:46
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Huh. Guess Discount Tire lied to me when I took it in for a nail plug. Is it normal for tires to only run three winters before getting dicey? I'm not sure how long my old ones were on there, because they came with the car when I bought it used.
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Sep 12, 2015 01:50
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I've had mine for about 36,000 miles/4 year (I have winter tires for the snow). The "S" markings (indicating they are useful in snow) have been worn off from the beginning of this year. The "W" markings should be about worn out by now. I plan on running them another couple of months/2,000 miles, then replacing in the spring. I'm fairly happy with that tire life.
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Sep 12, 2015 03:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:Some cars call them door glass wipes, some call them door glass seals, I know there's at least one other term for them that I'm missing. Yes, they are vehicle-specific, and for something like a modern Honda, probably dealer-only. I've got a similar issue with my 1991 Olds Ciera. Water has been leaking in for years and I think I've finally figured out where I think it's coming in at. I'm not sure if I'm seeing it right, but it looks like the outer window seal doesn't get tight with the base of the window unless it's fully rolled up. However, the seal is pretty split throughout and curved right at one end. So, even when the window is fully rolled up and most the rest of the seal is tight, there's about a 6cm part that is curved and not sealing, so all the water looks like in a hard rain will funnel right down into a ~0.5cm gap it depending on the angle I'm parked. I can't find a quick replacement solution from anyone locally and haven't had a chance to check with a dealer, but scouring some GM parts sites it's a discontinued part, so finding it might be hard as it is. So, I've been looking at it and I've been thinking of a few ugly solutions or combinations there of in the mean time. Been thinking of a sliced open hose to slide over the seal which seems to work on the small part I tested it on. I was also thinking of a heat gun to try to make the rubber/plastic malleable enough press the gap out or some gasket maker to fill in the splits and the gap.
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Sep 12, 2015 03:49
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While we're on tire chat, anyone have anything good or bad to say about Sumitomo? I'm in the process of getting my Focus back on the road and need some decent commuter tires. Specifically I'm looking at HTR A/S P02s in 215/45 17.
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Sep 12, 2015 03:53
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I need to make a tough choice, and I would like people's opinions. Right now I'm driving a Jeep Cherokee, 1997 5 spd, 2wd, with about 145k miles. I won't go into specifics but I can keep it, or have a Honda Accord(around 2003 or so model). Ill just make a list for each. The Jeep- Have had it the past few years. It's been reliable overall, but it's always got something small going on with it, and it's also getting beat to hell pretty bad. Here are some current issues: It uses a little water. May be that I didn't put the water pump on right a couple years ago, either way it doesn't go through it fast and seems to be not a big deal I redid the front brakes recently because they sounded horrible, but now the drum brakes rattle like hell and need to be dealt with. Also a weird clunky noise coming from the rear differential at low speeds with the clutch in. Doesn't seem to have gotten worse, so it doesn't seem to be major now, but it's still a thing that worries me. The suspension is getting wore out really bad. While it doesn't vibrate really on a perfectly smooth rode, going across any rough areas on the interstate at 60 or 70mph even, is extremely scary. I think it's just bushings that are wore out, as they look dry and cracked. The motor runs reliable, but isn't smooth at all like it used to be. It's hard to really describe this. Weighing less than most sedans, with a 4.0 the thing would haul rear end for a Jeep. It still has good power but acceleration isn't so great anymore like it used to be. The Accord - It uses a little oil. No smoking, no oil leaks. That's actually the only thing wrong with it. While it has about 155-160k miles, and the Jeep has about 145k, the Jeep is generally beat up more and generally causing some sort of pain in my rear end. I work up to 60 hours a week, so I don't have time to gently caress around fixing my own cars like I used to. I'm really thinking about going with the Honda, but is it a bad decision? The inline 4.0s in the Jeep are famous for running forever, but they also like to act like big piles of poo poo that need constant tinkering. As far as I'm aware, those Accords like this one have a good reputation for reliability as well, so I'm guessing just my preference will be the main thing here. That's about it, I'll add in anything I can think of, or if someone needs a clarification.
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Sep 12, 2015 05:09
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Im not much of a jeep guy, but that generation of the accord has the K24 I-4 engine and as far as I am aware also is the generation where the automatic transmissions were no longer made of glass (assuming its an auto). If its not in as much of a maintenance deficit as the jeep, it should be a pretty reliable car.
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Sep 12, 2015 05:46
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Only the 4 cylinders had a reliable automatic. The V6 models still had issues until at least the 2004, maybe even 2005, model year. The manual transmission versions had no real transmission issues. Avoid the Accord if it's a V6 automatic. Otherwise go for it. Like PV said, the K24 is drat near bulletproof, as long as it's had something resembling oil changes. The V6 is a solid engine too, it just had a transmission made of glass and shattered dreams behind it in the automatic version (I think 2003 was the first year the V6 was offered in a manual).
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Sep 12, 2015 05:53
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some texas redneck posted:Avoid the Accord if it's a V6 automatic. Otherwise go for it. Like PV said, the K24 is drat near bulletproof, as long as it's had something resembling oil changes. The V6 is a solid engine too, it just had a transmission made of glass and shattered dreams behind it in the automatic version (I think 2003 was the first year the V6 was offered in a manual). The K24 is amazing in how lovely it sounds when it gets a lot of miles on it. It doesn't seem to affect performance, but poo poo, they're second only to the Subaru EJ251 and maybe the Ford CVH for sounding like they're about to barf pistons in their old age.
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Sep 12, 2015 07:11
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Apparently you've never heard a D or F series with piston slap They get pretty drat loud once they get a lot of miles on them. More louder if you never adjust the valves. Every Honda I've owned has wound up with some form of piston slap. And yeah, it doesn't affect performance much at all, as long as you adjust the valves every couple of years (I'm not sure if the K series has a self-adjusting valvetrain, but the older Honda engines definitely didn't).
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Sep 12, 2015 08:06
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some texas redneck posted:Apparently you've never heard a D or F series with piston slap They get pretty drat loud once they get a lot of miles on them. More louder if you never adjust the valves. Haha I looked it up and I was totally wrong on the year. The accords I was thinking of had the F23, and yeah, absolutely shocking piston slap with no real consequences.
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Sep 12, 2015 08:31
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Yeah K series engines just sound super mechanical, they are timing chain motors and always have that muted clackclakclackclackclack sound
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Sep 12, 2015 13:49
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some texas redneck posted:
Yeah, K24 still has a fully mechanical valvetrain that needs to be adjusted manually. Honda doesn't call out any specific interval to do so since even a valve adjustment doesn't really quiet things down at all.
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Sep 12, 2015 16:13
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I have considered adjusting the valves on my FA5 Civic (K20Z3), its got 133k on it and I am not sure if its ever been done. It idles really quietly though (for a K series) and doesn't really seem to need it. Good excuse to get the valve cover off and paint it wrinkle red though 
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Sep 12, 2015 16:22
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...
WobblySausage fucked around with this message at 22:01 on May 8, 2018 |
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Sep 12, 2015 18:59
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I wouldn't buy a car from a person who blacks out headlights
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Sep 12, 2015 19:40
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The blower motor in my 1988 Ford F150 is pretty wimpy. I've replaced the original with a new one which was just as underwhelming. Is there anything I can do to get "High" to blow faster? Factory air with R134 conversion if it matters.
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Sep 12, 2015 19:53
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Geirskogul posted:I wouldn't buy a car from a person who blacks out headlights Those aren't blacked out. They're recessed with a trim piece on the fender.  Now, Chevy did the "blacking out" here, so if that's  then sure.From what I remember the LT1s are fine, just not as good stock-for-stock or mod-for-mod as the LS1. It's still a SBC, after all. Do check for water pump leaks, as that's where the Optispark distributor is mounted, and if coolant gets in the optical sensor wheel and gums up the slits, you will have ignition issues til the end of time. Optispark is that motors' one Achilles' heel.
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Sep 12, 2015 20:20
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That car's in the Dexcool window, right?
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Sep 12, 2015 20:38
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I tried some spraying with smooth Hammerite, but found it came out very "light", and took a long time to dry. The paint was mixed at the advised 15% thinners ration, using the Hammerite branded thinners. Pressure at the gun was the recommended ~30psi. I may have cocked up my fluid mixture setting, making it too low. Could that cause the issue?
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Sep 12, 2015 21:57
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Godholio posted:That car's in the Dexcool window, right? I thiiiiiink it predates Dexcool but only just. The Optispark is an interminable piece of poo poo, so budget either to replace it when it fully fails, or to swap it for another ignition system. I think some people have gone to LS1 coils with a trigger setup. Also, if you have any dreams of building it up for big power, you'll also have to either go carb or upgrade the computer to a LSx or aftermarket. The LT1 computer is ancient enough that it can't handle too much more RPM than the stock LT1. Of course before you get to that point you'll be grenading the 7.5" 10-bolt every day so you'll already have spent the money to switch to a Ford 8.8" or 9". Power window motors also suck and you literally can't see any of the hood in front of you. Shitloads of power for the money, though.
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Sep 12, 2015 22:07
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We had a mint C4 with the LT1 come through work about a week ago. I thought the instruments were pretty rad but the engine was very, very underwhelming. Not even close to an LS1 by any metric.
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Sep 12, 2015 23:47
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It's a 30hp difference in the fbody.
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Sep 13, 2015 00:00
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But you can do so much more with an LS1; the LT1 is pretty limited without doing some serious work. Plus the LS1 cars have better brakes, if that's something that matters to you.
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Sep 13, 2015 00:16
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Raluek posted:But you can do so much more with an LS1; the LT1 is pretty limited without doing some serious work. Plus the LS1 cars have better brakes, if that's something that matters to you. LS1 cars also go for a loooot more. If you just want a "just do zomg:brum" car, the LT1 is the cheap way.
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Sep 13, 2015 01:55
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LS1 is beyond superior. Its worth the cash difference.
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Sep 13, 2015 02:37
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I just got a 2013 Acura TL with AWD, and when my mechanic was checking it over before buying it he said the car was fine, but the front tires needed to be replaced. The dealer said they would replace the tires and match them to the rear. However when I pickup the car it now has 4 Linglong Crosswind tires instead of the Michelin that it had when I was test driving it. The tires are all new, my concern is I have never heard of them, neither has any of my car friends, and the internet doesn't say great things about them. Has any one heard of linglong tires? Are they just not great, are they dangerously poor? Any advice would be great.
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Sep 13, 2015 02:48
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I was checking out a late model 2014 used car that seems great but I'm on the fence because of one issue I saw. For whatever reason, the passenger door jamb has expanding foam in it. No idea why it was there. I didn't bring it up to the dealer yet, maybe using it as a bargaining chip later if it's nothing major. Any reason why you guys think someone might have put it there? Any common reason someone would do that? Maybe to fix a rattle? Or is it a common tactic to cover up something more nefarious? I took a photo while I was on the test drive. 
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Sep 13, 2015 03:07
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:I was checking out a late model 2014 used car that seems great but I'm on the fence because of one issue I saw. For whatever reason, the passenger door jamb has expanding foam in it. No idea why it was there. I didn't bring it up to the dealer yet, maybe using it as a bargaining chip later if it's nothing major. Let's put it this way: PO thought that was a good idea. The reason they did so isn't even relevant really, that sort of person isn't the PO you want, even on a car that new.
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Sep 13, 2015 04:58
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WobblySausage posted:
I have an unfortunate fondness for 80's and 90's Camaros. I know they're malaise-era emissions-choked shitboxes but they're just so drat cool looking 
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Sep 13, 2015 05:27
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GiantDutchman posted:I just got a 2013 Acura TL with AWD, and when my mechanic was checking it over before buying it he said the car was fine, but the front tires needed to be replaced. The dealer said they would replace the tires and match them to the rear. However when I pickup the car it now has 4 Linglong Crosswind tires instead of the Michelin that it had when I was test driving it. The tires are all new, my concern is I have never heard of them, neither has any of my car friends, and the internet doesn't say great things about them. I'll put it this way. Linglong is the kind of tire you put on a car before you trade it in, so you can get a little extra for it having "new tires". There's a reason they're ~$50/each. Car and Driver wasn't impressed either. I'd be pretty pissed about them putting such crappy tires on a car, but they were right in that it's good practice to replace all 4 tires on anything with AWD.
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Sep 13, 2015 05:35
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GiantDutchman posted:I just got a 2013 Acura TL with AWD, and when my mechanic was checking it over before buying it he said the car was fine, but the front tires needed to be replaced. The dealer said they would replace the tires and match them to the rear. However when I pickup the car it now has 4 Linglong Crosswind tires instead of the Michelin that it had when I was test driving it. The tires are all new, my concern is I have never heard of them, neither has any of my car friends, and the internet doesn't say great things about them. They don't have a US website, and the second google hit I get from their name is an article called "With Chinese Tires, it's Buyer Beware." Edit: Holy poo poo that C&D review quote:Consistently finishing last in all of the performance categories, the Ling Longs’ dry autocross performance was so far behind the other tires’ that we had to round its score up to zero to keep it from being negative. 
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Sep 13, 2015 09:45
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If I'm replacing a flywheel, is it acceptable to reuse the flywheel bolts or should I use new ones? Subaru EJ208 motor, 2002 Liberty/Legacy B4.
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Sep 13, 2015 11:11
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