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McSpergin posted:Yeah lower alpha aged hops though, cantillon uses something like 3 year old aged hops just to add maybe 1-2 ibu of bitterness. . Surprisingly enough this isn't true. I can't find it because I'm on my phone, but some Cantillon beers are up to 25ibus iirc, someone sent some to a lab. [url= http://www.talkbeer.com/community/threads/cantillon-analytics.22007/]Found it[/url] Flea Bargain fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Sep 12, 2015 |
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Sep 12, 2015 06:25
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wildfire1 posted:Surprisingly enough this isn't true. I can't find it because I'm on my phone, but some Cantillon beers are up to 25ibus iirc, someone sent some to a lab. Interesting, for the life of me I can't remember where I heard or read it, I just remember reading that certain lacto strains struggle with hop compounds but it may be that the aging reduces that or something? I dunno hah
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Sep 13, 2015 00:39
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HatfulOfHollow posted:Bacteria don't exactly struggle at higher IBUs. Vinnie at Russian River hops all of his sours to like 20 IBUs. There are a precious few strains that will still produce acid at those IBU levels. You certainly can hop to 20 IBU if you use them, but they would probably do a better job at lower levels. Most highly hopped sours "cheat" by souring before the boil/addition of hops, using large amounts of acid malt or adding acid before bottling. Another key point is that bitter and sour just ain't thought of as that great of a flavor combination, the common practice is to stick with lots of dry-hop if you want a hoppy sour. thotsky fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Sep 13, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 01:37
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Biomute posted:There are a precious few strains that will still produce acid at those IBU levels. You certainly can hop to 20 IBU if you use them, but they would probably do a better job at lower levels. It's mostly commercial strains that have trouble with hops, the wyeast and white labs strains are all pretty reserved in my experience. Dregs from breweries like Jolly Pumpkin and Wicked Weed will tear through drat near anything in 6-8 months though. My last sour was 25 IBU, 9.3% and soured up very nicely with the dregs I used.
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Sep 13, 2015 02:48
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McSpergin posted:Interesting, for the life of me I can't remember where I heard or read it, I just remember reading that certain lacto strains struggle with hop compounds but it may be that the aging reduces that or something? I dunno hah You're right, but I think Pedio does a lot of heavy lifting in lambic
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Sep 13, 2015 11:59
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 Cider talkI had a dry hopped cider in Victoria,BC a couple of months ago and quite enjoyed it. Anyone want to impart knowledge on how you do this and what and how much I might want to use for this? I would keg and probably highly carb it.
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Sep 13, 2015 18:46
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LaserWash posted:
I spoke with the person who came up with the FInnriver dry hopped cider. She said they tried a bunch of different hop varieties and settled on Cascade. I don't recall talking about amounts but I think it would be a lot like dry hopping a beer, 1-2 oz for a week, sample and go from there.
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Sep 13, 2015 20:31
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LaserWash posted:
No magic, just make a cider and dryhop as usual. As the other poster mentioned, 1-2oz is more than enough and I'd stick to fruity hops like Cascade or even Galaxy. Experiment and see what you like.
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Sep 13, 2015 21:18
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My immediate reaction is that some of the New Zealand varieties would be amazing with their tropical fruit thing. Riwaka might be a good place to start, for example.
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Sep 13, 2015 21:56
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Jo3sh posted:My immediate reaction is that some of the New Zealand varieties would be amazing with their tropical fruit thing. Riwaka might be a good place to start, for example. Yeah, I'm planning on trying to do my first cider next month and I was thinking something from New Zealand. Tropical citrus and apple sounds like a great pairing to me.
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Sep 13, 2015 22:11
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LaserWash posted:
I'm totally gonna citra dry-hop my next batch, will report back results in 6+ weeks
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Sep 13, 2015 23:31
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I feel like Nelson would be amazing in cider.
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Sep 14, 2015 00:28
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I made a pineapple + apple cider that tasted loving great with ahtanum and Amarillo. Trying a second batch with falconer's flight and Galaxy.
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Sep 14, 2015 00:29
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Tried to get some juice this evening at the grocery store. Came up with basically two things the most common of which looked like filtered juice that contained ascorbic acid. The more expensive was pure unpasteurized, organic, foo-foo looking stuff that looked like it had all the pulp settling at the bottom and was really syrupy looking. As an experiment, I only want to do about two gallons and would prefer something that is 4-5 percent abc when complete. Advise on choosing juice?
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Sep 14, 2015 01:45
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LaserWash posted:Tried to get some juice this evening at the grocery store. Came up with basically two things the most common of which looked like filtered juice that contained ascorbic acid. The more expensive was pure unpasteurized, organic, foo-foo looking stuff that looked like it had all the pulp settling at the bottom and was really syrupy looking. As an experiment, I only want to do about two gallons and would prefer something that is 4-5 percent abc when complete. Advise on choosing juice? Ascorbic acid is okay, but you definitely want to avoid sorbates if you can, as they can interfere with yeast reproduction (that's why they are added to some juice). I always just use Costco or Mott's apple juice, and I prefer the not-from-concentrate stuff if I can get it. And as has been pointed out, drinking juice is not going to be as balanced as real cider juice, because it doesn't have the right nix of sweet, sour, tart, and bitter apples in it. If you're lucky enough to live near a real cider orchard (probably not), by all means buy their juice. If you live near any apple orchard, for that matter, support the locals and buy that juice. My recipe is based on living in SoCal and not really having any better options when it comes to juice. Most juice as bottled will have a gravity around 1.050, so that's really about right for a five-ish percent cider. It's terribly fermentable, so look for a yeast with low attenuation if you don't want a dry cider. I do a fortified cider (i.e., with added sugars) mainly, and in that situation I find that Sweet Mead yeast from either Wyeast or White Labs does nicely, leaving some residual sugar and not going to full dry (<0.999) like Champagne yeast does. Chances are, either juice you saw at the grocery store would have worked fine. I'd choose the filtered juice just because it's easier to make clear cider that way. ... In other news, I scored more than 500 pounds of malt today - a mix of whole bags of base malts and partial bags of useful specialties. I even got a long half-bag of Baird's heavy-peat malt, about 35 pounds. Probably more than I need for the next few years, especially given that my father and I seem to be the only people who like peaty beers. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 02:00
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Do any of you pitch brett into your 'clean' gear? Or do you find it too hard to eradicate to risk it?
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Sep 14, 2015 02:07
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I don't keep two sets of gear. Proper sanitation is much easier on a homebrew scale when you can literally dismantle your entire brewery setup and complete soak every piece in sanitizer. I think it's a waste to keep separate gear.
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Sep 14, 2015 02:22
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ScaerCroe posted:Do any of you pitch brett into your 'clean' gear? Or do you find it too hard to eradicate to risk it? I reuse carboys and fermenters. I have enough airlocks and tubing and siphons to keep those separate. Just use pbw and star san. If you're not getting infected clean batches you will be fine.
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Sep 14, 2015 02:36
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Jo3sh posted:Ascorbic acid is okay, but you definitely want to avoid sorbates if you can, as they can interfere with yeast reproduction (that's why they are added to some juice). I always just use Costco or Mott's apple juice, and I prefer the not-from-concentrate stuff if I can get it. And as has been pointed out, drinking juice is not going to be as balanced as real cider juice, because it doesn't have the right nix of sweet, sour, tart, and bitter apples in it. If you're lucky enough to live near a real cider orchard (probably not), by all means buy their juice. If you live near any apple orchard, for that matter, support the locals and buy that juice. My recipe is based on living in SoCal and not really having any better options when it comes to juice. Thanks for all that. I think I'm going to get something going next week if I get the time. I'll probably buy enough to make a couple/few gallons to start with from filtered and somewhat watered down apple juice. I've just raised a culture of PacMan yeast from bottle dregs in a Rogue ale bomber (Wasted Sea Star from Oregon which was a one off purple ale - loving awesome beer - which describes Rogue stuff anyways). Would that be considered "English-enough" to be lower attenuating for my cider experiment? Also, How much is oxidation of concern in ciders? Do you take the same precautions as you would with beer (siphons and tubing). I assume you would want to aerate the gently caress out of something like this before you pitch the yeast. LaserWash fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 03:03
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Aw sonofabitch! My freezer door got left open, which isn't really a problem other than all of the labels on my hops fell off, so I have like 2 pounds of MYSTERY hops. I'm pretty sure if I bought them by the pound they're Citra, Amarillo or Nelson. Or Galaxy. Or Mosaic. Goddamnit.
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Sep 14, 2015 03:24
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Hop blend! Mix 'em all together and just use the melange. Then you'd know what was in any beer you used it in - EVERYTHING.
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Sep 14, 2015 04:58
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Jo3sh posted:Hop blend! My best guess is that one of them is Amarillo and the other is Citra since I use those so frequently but IDK. Luckily I'm sure of the one that was Warrior since that's nothing like the others.
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Sep 14, 2015 05:38
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Angry Grimace posted:My best guess is that one of them is Amarillo and the other is Citra since I use those so frequently but IDK. Luckily I'm sure of the one that was Warrior since that's nothing like the others. Could have been worse. All of those are 9-11 AA% Aroma hops. Just stick to using them for dry-hopping/flameout additions if you're very particular about your IBUs. They're all fruity hops too, so if you were so inclined you could mix them into a tropical fruit blend.
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Sep 14, 2015 08:08
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Jo3sh posted:Hop blend! Sounds like it is time for a 10g batch of "Mystery Hop tropical punch double IPA" Add 12oz for a 90min whirlpool, 12 oz 30min whirlpool and the remaining hops for dry hop. You probably wouldn't need any bittering hops if you do the initial whirlpool at 180. I don't see how this could not turn out well.
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Sep 14, 2015 14:28
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I just got my first pellicle in an IPA I made with US-05. I'm assuming that the pellicle means that I have an infection from something else right? That wouldn't be entirely surprising considering I was in a rush and didn't properly sanitize the carboy as well as I normally would. edit - It took me 18 batches (including 5 sour/brett beers) to get my first pellicle. deedee megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 14:49
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US-05 (or any sacch) could technically form a pellicle, but it's highly unlikely. I'd say something else got in there as well. Since you brew sour/brett beers those might be primary suspects?
thotsky fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 15:15
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Yeah, I'm betting it's from the rushed sanitation job I did on that carboy. So far I haven't had any cross contamination so I knew I was due. And not going through my full routine was just asking for it.
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Sep 14, 2015 15:20
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Brewed my first beer with a really strong focus on Hop Burst/Hop Stand/Whirlpool Methods. Kinda going for a Pinner clone (session, very dry, dank/tropical hop profile) I did ~2oz of 7Cs in the boil 60min, an ounce of Apollo at 10min, then another ounce at flameout, and almost 2 more ounces of Apollo at a 180º Whirlpool and 2 of Calypso at 160º. Probably another 3-4oz as a dryhop. I had a bunch of hops from this past year and I kinda wanna get them cycled out. I've head good things about high-volume hops at late stages, so this the real test.
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Sep 14, 2015 15:24
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Der Penguingott posted:Sounds like it is time for a 10g batch of "Mystery Hop tropical punch double IPA" Maybe it's just Monday and a low blood caffeine level, but what do you mean by 90min whirlpool and 30min whirlpool? I'm used to seeing whirlpool as a sort of flameout addition.
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Sep 14, 2015 15:26
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ChickenArise posted:Maybe it's just Monday and a low blood caffeine level, but what do you mean by 90min whirlpool and 30min whirlpool? I'm used to seeing whirlpool as a sort of flameout addition. It would look like this: Add hops at flameout/>180, whirlpool for 60min. Chill down to 160 or a little lower Then add the remaining hops and Whirlpool for 30m more, then chill quickly. Anything added over 170-180 will add quite a bit of ibus. I don't know accurate it is, but beer Smith has a calculator for this. It is a way of controlling ibus with very large whirlpool hop additions. You really do not need any early boil bittering hops if you do it this way. If your chiller is slow you can adjust accordingly. https://byo.com/component/k2/item/2808-hop-stands Der Penguingott fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 15:41
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I thought that might be it; thanks for the clarification. Personally I try to get most of my flavor additions via 5-10min additions + whirlpool/stand. For a big/bitter IIPA, though, I tend to at least have a 30min addition to save money on hops 
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Sep 14, 2015 16:47
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wildfire1 posted:You're right, but I think Pedio does a lot of heavy lifting in lambic Agreed. Jermaine Dildoe posted:No magic, just make a cider and dryhop as usual. As the other poster mentioned, 1-2oz is more than enough and I'd stick to fruity hops like Cascade or even Galaxy. Experiment and see what you like. Jo3sh posted:My immediate reaction is that some of the New Zealand varieties would be amazing with their tropical fruit thing. Riwaka might be a good place to start, for example. HatfulOfHollow posted:I feel like Nelson would be amazing in cider. I agree. Hopped ciders are great but you don't want to go batshit on the hops. I do want to do sour/funky ciders
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Sep 15, 2015 04:11
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I'm thinking of buying some hops bulk to save a bit. I think I'm going to buy from http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/ because they have citra in stock. The next beer I am thinking of making is this beer. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=303478 Which uses a ton of citra. So for my bulk hop buying I think I'l buy a pound of citra, a pound of cascade as they are used in a ton of stuff. And a pound of Centennial or Warrior. Do you guys think these are good choices to buy? And which bittering hop would you recommend? Thanks.
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Sep 16, 2015 01:50
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McSpergin posted:Yeah lower alpha aged hops though, cantillon uses something like 3 year old aged hops just to add maybe 1-2 ibu of bitterness. I bought some 3 year old aged hops for my next lambic, I recommend noone tries smelling the bag. It's like rotten cheese 
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Sep 16, 2015 04:12
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Arcland posted:I'm thinking of buying some hops bulk to save a bit. I think I'm going to buy from http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/ because they have citra in stock. The next beer I am thinking of making is this beer. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=303478 Which uses a ton of citra. So for my bulk hop buying I think I'l buy a pound of citra, a pound of cascade as they are used in a ton of stuff. And a pound of Centennial or Warrior. Do you guys think these are good choices to buy? And which bittering hop would you recommend? Thanks. Speaking of bulk hops. I'm going out to Seattle, Portland and Bend in a week and I was curious if there were any hop farms relatively close to that area that it might be worth visiting to get some freshly harvested hops from. I'm planning to do a black IPA this fall and getting a big bag of awesome hops to throw in it would be awesome.
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Sep 16, 2015 04:18
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Fluo posted:I bought some 3 year old aged hops for my next lambic, I recommend noone tries smelling the bag. It's like rotten cheese 
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Sep 16, 2015 04:19
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rockcity posted:Speaking of bulk hops. I'm going out to Seattle, Portland and Bend in a week and I was curious if there were any hop farms relatively close to that area that it might be worth visiting to get some freshly harvested hops from. I'm planning to do a black IPA this fall and getting a big bag of awesome hops to throw in it would be awesome. Yakima Valley Hops is good. I get bulk hops from them and they have the 2015 stock in already. It may be a little out of your way depending on the order of your trip though.
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Sep 16, 2015 04:30
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rockcity posted:Speaking of bulk hops. I'm going out to Seattle, Portland and Bend in a week and I was curious if there were any hop farms relatively close to that area that it might be worth visiting to get some freshly harvested hops from. I'm planning to do a black IPA this fall and getting a big bag of awesome hops to throw in it would be awesome. That would be cool. A place near me grows their own hops although they did it more for novelty and contracted out their hops and apples to make hard cider. Now they are building a cidery and will be making it on the spot which will be pretty cool. Edit: This is in New York though so not much help.
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Sep 16, 2015 04:50
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Jhet posted:Yakima Valley Hops is good. I get bulk hops from them and they have the 2015 stock in already. It may be a little out of your way depending on the order of your trip though. drat, that's definitely along the lines of what I'm looking for, but yeah, it's way out of the way. It looks like the hop farms more on my route are the ones that are on my route from Portland to Bend. It doesn't look like a lot of them cater toward selling in homebrew quantities though, if they sell directly themselves at all.
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Sep 16, 2015 05:00
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Haha it also like almost turns to powder when you pick them up etc
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Sep 16, 2015 07:43
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