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Git Mah Belt Son posted:Any reason why you guys think someone might have put it there? Any common reason someone would do that? Maybe to fix a rattle? Or is it a common tactic to cover up something more nefarious? I've seen spray foam used as a last ditch attempt to fill a space before slapping on a ton of bondo or to redneck fix a leak but I'm not sure that's what happened here. Either way you do not spray foam anywhere in your car. Eventually it'll hold water like crazy and everything around it will rust. Run away. GiantDutchman posted:Has any one heard of linglong tires? Are they just not great, are they dangerously poor? Any advice would be great. When I bought an Impreza a while back the dealer threw some no name tires on it and I was equally unimpressed. Low and behold the first rain driving the car I got to experience unintended AWD drifting. I tried to wear them out but they were hard like legos and eventually they were just too much of a safety concern. You can yell at the dealer or budget for new tires. 8ender fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Sep 13, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 15:46
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Sounds like negotiating leverage, since you're going to be immediately lashing out 600 bux for a set of continentals or whatever other tire won't murder you
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Sep 13, 2015 16:17
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GiantDutchman posted:it now has 4 Linglong Crosswind tires instead of the Michelin that it had when I was test driving it. Bait and switch. Should should have refused taking delivery right then and there. The worn out Michelins were likely twice as good as new chinese tires. Git Mah Belt Son posted:I was checking out a late model 2014 used car that seems great but I'm on the fence because of one issue I saw. For whatever reason, the passenger door jamb has expanding foam in it. No idea why it was there. I didn't bring it up to the dealer yet, maybe using it as a bargaining chip later if it's nothing major. Run away. PO was an idiot and you'll be finding even worse things soon if you buy that car.
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Sep 13, 2015 16:23
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WobblySausage fucked around with this message at 22:00 on May 8, 2018 |
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Sep 13, 2015 17:14
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Thanks for the advice on the spray foam avoidance. I still don't get why anyone would do it in the first place. I thought maybe because of leaks or something? I just didn't get what putting it there in the first place would accomplish.
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Sep 13, 2015 17:42
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My sunroof drains come out in that area. I can picture "Why's this water running here? I'll spray some foam and stop the leak!" Alternately, sound deadening/stopping a rattle?
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Sep 13, 2015 17:48
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I'm going to go with horribly bad body repair.WobblySausage posted:Is there a Chevy or Camaro thread I could take this to? I didn't have luck when I was looking. Not that I know of. The typical Camaro owner is a loner, Dottie. A rebel. I also have a hard time calling a LT1 "emissions choked". It was one of the most powerful cars you could get when it came out, especially for the money. It just didn't have the insane potential of the LS1, and that's as much due to the fact that the LT1 does have some unique parts that aren't easily swapped with GenI SBCs.
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Sep 13, 2015 17:58
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Yeah, I've already yelled at the dealer, but need to wait till Monday to get them switched. Thanks for the advice. AWD rain drifting doesn't sound fun when it's unintentional.
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Sep 13, 2015 17:59
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literally a fish posted:If I'm replacing a flywheel, is it acceptable to reuse the flywheel bolts or should I use new ones? Flywheel bolts usually have a torque to yield torque spec, which stretches the fastener. You should replace them.
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Sep 13, 2015 19:18
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Geoj posted:Flywheel bolts usually have a torque to yield torque spec, which stretches the fastener. You should replace them. I have removed hundreds and never seen a flywheel with torque to yield bolts on my life, nor a workshop manual that tells you otherwise.
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Sep 13, 2015 19:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm going to go with horribly bad body repair. Agreed. The LT1 was one of the first domestic engines to really get out from under the dark days of early emissions controls killing performance. The 90s were a time where engineers really learned a lot about how to use computers to maximize not only economy but power. In it's lowest-output configuration the LT1 produced almost as much power as the highest-performance Gen 1 SBC from the factory. There are some Camaro/F-body forums out there that will have an absolute TON of info out there.
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Sep 13, 2015 19:57
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While the LT1 certainly doens't have the cheap potential an LS1 does, i fear the car you can find with an LS1 for $2100. Also, LT1s just sound hellarad.
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Sep 13, 2015 19:59
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kid sinister posted:The blower motor in my 1988 Ford F150 is pretty wimpy. I've replaced the original with a new one which was just as underwhelming. Is there anything I can do to get "High" to blow faster? Anyone? Am I stuck with the wimpy fan?
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Sep 13, 2015 23:28
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Slavvy posted:I have removed hundreds and never seen a flywheel with torque to yield bolts on my life, nor a workshop manual that tells you otherwise. Even if no flywheel bolts have a torque spec that high (I've encountered it a few times, but my anecdotal evidence doesn't count for poo poo unlike your's, right?) can you think of a reason to not use new bolts on a flywheel that requires removing the transmission to get at?
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Sep 13, 2015 23:48
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kid sinister posted:Anyone? Am I stuck with the wimpy fan? I don't know anything about those particular trucks, but generally "high" means feeding the motor full 12V without any attenuation or anything. So, short of replacing the blower with something else (and you'd have to do some homework on what would fit that isn't stock replacement), you'd be looking at physical problems. Is there some kind of obstruction in the airflow? Do those have a cabin air filter? Those get plugged up. Maybe there's an air leak in the ducting?
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Sep 13, 2015 23:49
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Check the fan schematic too. On my C10, the original fan wiring feeds directly through the goddamn dash switch. Switching it to a relay made it blow quite a bit harder.
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Sep 14, 2015 00:29
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Geoj posted:Even if no flywheel bolts have a torque spec that high (I've encountered it a few times, but my anecdotal evidence doesn't count for poo poo unlike your's, right?) can you think of a reason to not use new bolts on a flywheel that requires removing the transmission to get at? Sourcing new flywheel bolts can be a pain in the rear end. Even if you can find a set, they usually cost  amounts of money. I understand that they are a critical part, but they are almost always overengineered. If you're tight on cash and they don't look hosed up, as in no stripped threads, no necking out, etc., then you will be fine reusing them.
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Sep 14, 2015 00:34
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Geoj posted:Flywheel bolts usually have a torque to yield torque spec, which stretches the fastener. You should replace them. Slavvy posted:I have removed hundreds and never seen a flywheel with torque to yield bolts on my life, nor a workshop manual that tells you otherwise. the FSM doesn't mention having to replace them, and the torque spec is listed as 72nm/53ft-lb which doesn't sound very torque to yield to me... If I can find some without spending $$$$ I'll probably replace them anyway just to be safe, though. Thanks!
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Sep 14, 2015 01:14
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EightBit posted:Even if you can find a set, they usually cost This is a bit of an exaggeration - $15.12 for a set of 8. Sure, $2 per bolt is expensive in the scheme of fasteners but hardly levels of money.
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Sep 14, 2015 01:14
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Geoj posted:This is a bit of an exaggeration - $15.12 for a set of 8. Sure, $2 per bolt is expensive in the scheme of fasteners but hardly Even the dealer just quoted me $4.50/bolt, so that answers that question. 
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Sep 14, 2015 01:23
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By that reasoning you should replace every bolt you ever take off on everything because they're only a couple of bucks each. It will be fine with the old ones.
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Sep 14, 2015 01:25
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Slavvy posted:By that reasoning you should replace every bolt you ever take off on everything because they're only a couple of bucks each. It will be fine with the old ones. Every fastener that is critical to the operation of the power train that also requires several hours of labor to remove the transmission to get to? Absolutely.
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Sep 14, 2015 01:30
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You're the type of person who torque wrenches sump plugs, aren't you?
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Sep 14, 2015 01:37
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Slavvy posted:You're the type of person who torque wrenches sump plugs, aren't you? No, I crank the hell out of them with an impact wrench until it stops and then let it hammer for 30 seconds for good measure. What could go wrong?  e: I also reuse the crush washer and wipe the oil filter off to give it the appearance of being new because replacing them would require levels of money.
Geoj fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 01:39
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$5 per bolt certainly is pricey, and I've seen kits for Jeep 4.0 engines over $50. They are made of pretty high strength steel to cost that much.
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Sep 14, 2015 02:49
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I've got a stupid question. I searched AI and couldn't find a dedicated thread, so I'm asking here: how can I find up-to-date info about aftermarket CNG conversions? I found a ton of old and ultimately non-specific information online that hasn't been helpful. I'm trying to figure out if an absurd idea I have is possible. I'd like to buy a used 1999-2000 BMW Z3 (either 2.3l or 2.8l 6-cyl gasoline engine) and convert it to a dedicated CNG fuel system for environmental reasons. I've read that people have converted other gasoline BMW's, but I can't find specifics about available kits or certified mechanics who might be able to install them. I live in Los Angeles, so federal and state regulations re: emissions and fuel conversion are strict, but I'm also very close to several CNG refueling stations, so that'd actually be a reasonable fuel system for me to have if I could even commission the conversion in the first place. So: people who know poo poo about this process, is this a stupid idea or a feasible one?
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Sep 14, 2015 03:26
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Xealot posted:I've got a stupid question. I searched AI and couldn't find a dedicated thread, so I'm asking here: how can I find up-to-date info about aftermarket CNG conversions? I found a ton of old and ultimately non-specific information online that hasn't been helpful. I don't know about the rest but I can tell you that burning CNG creates CO2 just like any other fuel. They tend to burn less sooty so the oil stays clean longer, but the most severe impact of other fossil fuels is present with CNG as well.
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Sep 14, 2015 06:11
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Everything I've read suggests CNG vehicles produce roughly 85% of the greenhouse gases of a gasoline vehicle over their lifetime, but I think that includes the fuel production process. When I bothered looking into it, GHGs were generally lumped together and I don't recall finding a good breakdown.
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Sep 14, 2015 07:35
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^^^ What I've read suggests CNG vehicles produce around 2/3 the CO2 of conventional gasoline engines, give or take based on the specifics of the engine and usage. But that could easily be a sanitized figure from an interested party, so I can't say. Enourmo posted:I don't know about the rest but I can tell you that burning CNG creates CO2 just like any other fuel. They tend to burn less sooty so the oil stays clean longer, but the most severe impact of other fossil fuels is present with CNG as well. I'm fully aware of that. But it produces less CO2 emissions than conventional gas for equivalent work; I just want something slightly less terrible than what I'm currently doing with a conventional gas engine. I'd do an electric vehicle, but it's 1) out of my price range to spec out to my commute needs, and 2) impossible for me to charge at home, living in an apartment. CNG is a realistic middle ground option. If I could charge an EV at home and source all my power through renewables, I would. But unfortunately, that's not something I'm in a place to do. And obviously, my agenda isn't simply making the greenest vehicle I can...I'm talking about a sports car and not a Prius. Xealot fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 07:44
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Xealot posted:^^^ What I've read suggests CNG vehicles produce around 2/3 the CO2 of conventional gasoline engines, give or take based on the specifics of the engine and usage. But that could easily be a sanitized figure from an interested party, so I can't say. Can't help you with CNG, but I have an LPG conversion in my Saab convertible, here in the UK I've got a 45litre tank that sits in my full-sized spare wheel well. I suspect that converting a Z3 will use up an awful lot of your boot space.
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Sep 14, 2015 08:15
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Alright, got a question about options for fixing my truck. I pulled the bed to replace the fuel pump, and 2 of the 8 bolts holding the bed to the frame just started spinning like the captive nut on the bed broke free. So I cut off the heads and continued removing the bed. Now I'm trying to fix that so I can secure the bed again. I cut into the channel to get to the nuts (can't access them otherwise) and can't seem to get the headless bolts out. My dad suggested just cutting off the bolt and drilling a hole through the nut and bed and using long carriage bolts to hold the bed down. This sounds appealing except that where they would land in the bed it's on a curve (not flat surface so I don't think there would be much bite to hold the bolts in. I was hoping my lovely 120v flux welder would help here to weld a nut on the bolt heads but so far I've been unsuccessful (probably not the welder's fault, this is my first go with the welder and I suck). I tried notching one bolt with a flat for a screwdriver and that didn't do it either. What would you suggest to get the bolts out, and how can I get this bolted joint to function again? Looking in the hole the captive nut appears round and seems like it's still on the chassis but the nut portion inside the round piece is spinning. I might be able to pound on the bolt and break off the nut portion (since it's useless in the current state anyway), but I'm not sure what the best course of action is here. Right now I'm thinking pound the bolt and nut off the chassis, then throw a normal nut up there and leave an access hole so I can put a wrench on the nut when tightening back down. Not ideal but I don't have a perfect solution. Thoughts? View from underneath (bottom of bed)  
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Sep 14, 2015 12:40
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Cut the whole captive nut assembly out, weld in a patch panel with a new captive nut, or do as your father suggested and use a long bolt. Also, remove the rust before you try to weld.
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Sep 14, 2015 13:19
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Any thoughts on window chip repair kits? I was looking at this Loctite one - http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37613-Windshield-Adhesive-Syringe/dp/B0015POUIM/ The RainX one seems complicated.
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Sep 14, 2015 18:04
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Raluek posted:I don't know anything about those particular trucks, but generally "high" means feeding the motor full 12V without any attenuation or anything. So, short of replacing the blower with something else (and you'd have to do some homework on what would fit that isn't stock replacement), you'd be looking at physical problems. A cabin air filter on a 80s Ford? I don't think so. Anyway, the heater box is accessible from the engine compartment. I didn't see any clogs inside the big fan hole in the box when I swapped it. I will look into that relay idea.
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Sep 14, 2015 19:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm going to go with horribly bad body repair You win! I couldn't let it go because it's the car I want in the perfect color combo I want. It's a weird ford color so not many out there and the price was good. Anyway, I asked them if I could get it checked out and I brought it to my auto body guy. He said whoever did the repair is a loving dunce and should have failed auto body school. The repair was technically done right but the foam he used is completely different wrong and done sloppy as hell. He said he could get it perfect if he fixed it though. It looked like a low speed collision. His general mechanic said the car is completely solid otherwise though. Anyway, dealership offered to pay for it to be fixed at the auto body shop of my choice and knock off some money if I buy. I'm seriously considering it at this point just because everything else checks out, I'd be getting a smoking good deal, and I know the repair would be done right at my guy.
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Sep 14, 2015 23:21
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Run the gently caress away. If a car that new has already been turbofucked with a repair that bad, you don't know what other horrors await you. I'm guessing the accident doesn't show on a Carfax / Autocheck?
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Sep 14, 2015 23:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:Run the gently caress away. If a car that new has already been turbofucked with a repair that bad, you don't know what other horrors await you. I'm guessing the accident doesn't show on a Carfax / Autocheck? Nope, not on Carfax, which proves how useless it is. Yeah, I know I should run...but I trust my auto body guy completely (he's a family friend and has been doing it for 40 years). He looked at every thing in, under, and around the car and he said it should be fine otherwise. He said it would have occurred from a low speed collision and the previous tech who did the repair was just an idiot, but it's not a malicious repair that can't easily be fixed. Every other body panel is factory painted and everything else looks perfect. We'll see. I'm still on the fence, I'm just considering it. I'm still not completely sold though. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 23:45
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Why? This isn't a low production car. Find another one.
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Sep 15, 2015 01:45
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Bovril Delight posted:Why? This isn't a low production car. Find another one. I've been looking for this color combo, options package, at a price I want to pay for months. It's actually fairly low volume in this combo, and I don't want to pay full retail to order one. I'm just mulling it over. I'm not totally sold but I'm just considering it. I'm probably going to decide against it in the end but it's tough since it's exactly what I want, hah.
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Sep 15, 2015 02:03
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Dude walk the gently caress away or deal with po fuckery you asked for advice and now you don't want to take it. It's a poo poo repair and indicitive of other lax hosed up maintenance. It's your loving money but I wouldn't Every goon advice thread: Goon: should I Goons: gently caress no Goon: but I wanna and am going to anyways Goons: you retard 6mos Goon: I did what you said I shouldn't now I'm hosed book hoo neckbeard bull poo poo.... Ad naseum tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 02:16
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