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akadajet posted:I do think having a neutral target like a gray card could help you. Just picking a neutral-ish for gray helps a lot. Holy gently caress i didn't know you could do that
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Sep 10, 2015 04:31
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Thanks for all the help, guys. I'm going to fiddle with workflow a bit and see if I can get this figured out.
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Sep 10, 2015 15:06
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  Just some more "what's wrong here". I think that my camera's shutter might be failing at fast speeds, the pictures coming out black were all taken in bright sunlight so it may have been using 1/1000, which is the max. I don't know what's going on with the stripes at the beginning of the film. If I hold my camera down pointed at my light box I can see through the shutter curtain at 1/1000, but if I put the light box on it's side and try releasing the shutter I can't see through it most of the time. hmm.... Is my T70 out of gas?
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Sep 12, 2015 01:52
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Which 35mm black and white film should I buy for relatively simple home development?
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Sep 13, 2015 05:12
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Which 35mm black and white film should I buy for relatively simple home development? It doesn't make a huge difference as long as you stick to one film and one dev, consistency is the key. Tri-x and HP5 will offer the most flexibility and more importantly, data points (other people's times/temps/samples), for home development.
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Sep 13, 2015 05:33
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Cross-posting part of my post from medium/large format thread:Doctor Bombadil posted:Edit: Also found these in the bottom of the fridge (sorry for the crappy pic): Thanks to iammeandsoareyo for advice given in that thread. I've decided not to throw these out for now, but rather ask for more advice. Ektachrome64 ER120 is E-6, so I'll go out and shoot those rolls. Ektachrome EH120 is E-4, can it be cross-processed in E-6 and what can I expect from it? Ektachrome Professional Type B - I can't find much data about this film, anyone knows which process is it? Agfachrome 50L and CT18 - as far as I know Agfa used specific chemistry for agfacrome, and it can't be cross-processed in E-6. Any advice on what to do? Orwochrom UK17 and UT18 - didn't find much data on this film (I also never heard about ORWO before I found these) Orwo NP20 - black and white ISO 80 film, I'll shoot it and see what happens. (Oh, with exception of EH120, all of thise rolls are ISO 32 - 64) Any advice on what to do with all these rolls?
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Sep 13, 2015 10:31
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Other rolls are also from the '80s.
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Doctor Bombadil posted:Ektachrome EH120 is E-4, can it be cross-processed in E-6 and what can I expect from it? Rocky Mountain Film might be able to E-4 process, but expect to pay a lot and wait up to a year. Doctor Bombadil posted:Agfachrome 50L and CT18 - as far as I know Agfa used specific chemistry for agfacrome, and it can't be cross-processed in E-6. Any advice on what to do? ORWO at the time that film was made was a Soviet/East German film company. UK17 and UT18 use the the Agfachrome process (AP-41). You could probably reverse-engineer the process from patents and notes if you are a real chemistry nerd (here are some starting points), but in practical terms you're best off selling them as display pieces or maybe processing them as black-and-white negatives to see what comes up. That last one will be weird - as I understand it, Agfa didn't use the Kodak approach of coupling in dyes, but rather put the dye in during film construction, and the processing bound the dyes to long polymer chains and extracted the excess. I have no idea how (or if) it will work - you're deep into Lomo "throw it at the wall and see if it sticks" territory here. Generally my answer is "if you had long-lost valuable family pictures this would be interesting, but it'll be cheaper and less headache to buy new film." If you're lucky someone on eBay might want it for display and subsidize that cost, but I wouldn't bet a lot on that. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Sep 13, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 18:40
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Which 35mm black and white film should I buy for relatively simple home development? Start with Tri-X because it is the cheapest film on consistent quality. You can get 10 36-shot rolls on Amazon for $50. There are cheaper ones like Foma, but there are some reports out there on inconsistent quality
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Sep 13, 2015 19:40
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Thanks for the advice, I'll shoot that E-6 Ektachrome and B&W Orwo and see what comes up. The rest I'll just keep as curiosities, as you've said, they're not worth the hassle. The Claptain fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Sep 13, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 20:53
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mulls posted:Start with Tri-X because it is the cheapest film on consistent quality. You can get 10 36-shot rolls on Amazon for $50. There are cheaper ones like Foma, but there are some reports out there on inconsistent quality I'll stick up for Foma, it's always been good to me, in both 100 and 400 varieties, and the 400 can be pushed hard like Tri-X too.
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Sep 13, 2015 22:31
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are there any good places to buy film that aren't Freestyle or Amazon? I'm especially looking for like... weird European b&w films, but the choices there seem to have declined since I last bought film. edit: and have any of y'all tried the Cinestill films? because an 800-speed tungsten-balanced film sounds loving perfect
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Sep 14, 2015 02:08
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If you're happy to buy from Europe then there is Macodirect, FomaFoto and FotoImpex.
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Sep 14, 2015 02:45
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If not trix, then hp5. I've had some pretty decent results with kentmere as well, and it's cheaper. A fair bit grainier, but also a lot cheaper.
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Sep 14, 2015 03:07
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atomicthumbs posted:are there any good places to buy film that aren't Freestyle or Amazon? I'm especially looking for like... weird European b&w films, but the choices there seem to have declined since I last bought film. Film photography project?
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Sep 14, 2015 03:16
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Spedman posted:If you're happy to buy from Europe then there is Macodirect, FomaFoto and FotoImpex. Will the shipping rates kill me if I do? BANME.sh posted:Film photography project? Not really, more of a restocking on B&W film since I haven't really shot any in years.
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Sep 14, 2015 04:23
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atomicthumbs posted:Will the shipping rates kill me if I do? With the U.S. Dollar so strong, probably not, Fomafoto in particular have very reasonable international shipping rates.
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Sep 14, 2015 04:37
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atomicthumbs posted:Not really, more of a restocking on B&W film since I haven't really shot any in years. No, that's the name of the website that sells weird film 
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Sep 14, 2015 05:25
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atomicthumbs posted:
lol http://filmphotographyproject.com/store They have good poo poo.
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Sep 14, 2015 07:22
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Thirding the lol at that website's name and the confusion. Buy a bunch of Tri-X and/or HP5+, and toss one of their oddball variety packs into your order for fun. I've got the remainders from a couple of orders like that I need to play with. There's always eBay if you want to gamble.
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Sep 14, 2015 16:00
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Ilford just got bought: http://www.bjp-online.com/2015/09/harman-ilford-film-purchased-pemberstone/
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Sep 14, 2015 22:25
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Spedman posted:Ilford just got bought: 
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Sep 14, 2015 23:00
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akadajet posted:
Kind of late, but that's pretty drat similar to what it looked like when my (admittedly compact not SLR) camera's shutter finally gave up the ghost. I guess the stripes are due to the shutter opening and sometimes also closing irregularly. Had lots of weird artefacts and half-pictures on that roll too. Hope that helps! At least T70 bodies are kinda cheap, and 80ies (that means rad) as hell..
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Sep 15, 2015 00:54
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VomitOnLino posted:Kind of late, but that's pretty drat similar to what it looked like when my (admittedly compact not SLR) camera's shutter finally gave up the ghost. Ya that's what I figured. Since it would cost 75 bux + shipping to fix I picked up an AE1 program on the cheap so I can use the lenses and film I already have. Hope it works!
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Sep 15, 2015 01:05
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Picked up a few rolls of Provia 100F while I was in Europe, and I think it's a good opportunity to try my hand at cross-processing for the first time. I'm assuming (based on VSCO Film 06 and various Google results) that I'm going to get greenish casts, but anything I should be wary of in terms of exposure?
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Sep 15, 2015 10:51
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Spedman posted:Ilford just got bought: quote:Peter Elton, Managing Director of Harman concurs. “Film has become an interesting medium for young photographers to work with again. We are seeing this very clearly. Our new owners will assist us to connect more effectively to this younger generation in the future, and we will prioritise this as our main goal over the next five years. gently caress
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Sep 15, 2015 18:18
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I just hope this doesn't turn into Lomography 2.0 Fake edit: Local store has Ilford films on discount, maybe it's time to stock up. Real edit: VVVV I should sell all those rolls of Agfachrome which were in my hot attic to hipsters, praising ~unpredictable results~ they'll get. The Claptain fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 19:50
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atomicthumbs posted:gently caress What? You don't like weird lomo film that shoots like it was kept in a sauna for a decade right out of the freezer?
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Sep 15, 2015 19:51
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I wonder if they'll make their own instax or something.
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Sep 15, 2015 19:52
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nm posted:What? You don't like weird lomo film that shoots like it was kept in a sauna for a decade right out of the freezer? So my understanding of the secret of Lomo film is two fold, 1. it's really effing cheap, and 2. they put E-6 film in the cassette but label it as C-41 so you don't have to convince your lab to cross process or pay extra.
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Sep 15, 2015 20:41
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404notfound posted:Picked up a few rolls of Provia 100F while I was in Europe, and I think it's a good opportunity to try my hand at cross-processing for the first time. Why?
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Sep 15, 2015 21:13
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How do you store your negatives? I've just starting shooting film again, and I'd like to organise things a little better. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask and I didn't see anything in the OP but this must be the right thread....right?
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Sep 15, 2015 21:27
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Xabi posted:How do you store your negatives? I've just starting shooting film again, and I'd like to organise things a little better. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask and I didn't see anything in the OP but this must be the right thread....right? PrintFile sheets and sleeves are the gold standard here.
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Sep 15, 2015 21:34
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So I shot a roll of Portra 400 on an old pentax, scans came back from the lab and I requested 16 bit tiffs which I got. I do the levels adjustment per the video in the OP. But what is the solution for when you don't have perfectly exposed photos, and you have splotches at 255 right off the bat when you alt click the color channel? Do you just kind of ignore it and move past til a bit more show up? Or do you fix this with the curves adjustment?
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Sep 15, 2015 22:20
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iSheep posted:So I shot a roll of Portra 400 on an old pentax, scans came back from the lab and I requested 16 bit tiffs which I got. You can fix it by scanning your film yourself. Your lab helpfully discarded the information in those highlights - there's no way to get it back.
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Sep 15, 2015 22:57
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MrBlandAverage posted:You can fix it by scanning your film yourself. Your lab helpfully discarded the information in those highlights - there's no way to get it back. I'm keeping all the film for when I get a scanner. But really there isn't much I can do as of now? EDIT: Maybe I didn't phrase the question well enough: I'm aware that they are lost highlights, my question is how do I determine I'm getting the correct white balance, regardless. iSheep fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 23:01
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atomicthumbs posted:gently caress I get the feeling they'll be okay, have a listen to FPP episode 123 where they have someone go through the whole place interviewing people. They may want to expand, but don't have the expertise to actually connect with customers or make new customers, and this is the best way to do it.
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Sep 15, 2015 23:20
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iSheep posted:I'm keeping all the film for when I get a scanner. But really there isn't much I can do as of now? By looking at the image on a calibrated monitor. You can try playing with the R/G/B white points to make the blown highlight the same size on each channel, but depending on what else the lab did to the curves, that may not do it.
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Sep 15, 2015 23:27
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Huh? Is there something wrong with wanting to try cross-processing? 
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Sep 16, 2015 00:23
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404notfound posted:Huh? Is there something wrong with wanting to try cross-processing? Yes, in the sense that you're paying a bunch of money to ignore all of the engineering that went into making your already-expensive film. It's also a gimmick in that it won't make bad pictures good. You're not David LaChapelle. If you want wacky colors or something why not do it after the fact? It's easier to add the effect than to remove it.
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Sep 16, 2015 00:39
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MrBlandAverage posted:If you want wacky colors or something why not do it after the fact? It's easier to add the effect than to remove it. Then you'd complain about the colors being off.
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Sep 16, 2015 01:18
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