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Crossposting from the Oath thread, since this is the first model I've ever painted that wasn't just your normal standard faceless tactical marine.   For progress comparison, this tactical marine was the first mini I posted in this thread. It's been a busy summer and I've been super slow at painting, but so far I've done all the tactical marines from the DV set + their sergeant above. Things I learned: -Yellow is dumb, I was dumb to want to put yellow on the hilt of the chainsword. -First time painting robes. I think I didn't have a good enough gradient between my dark and light cream colors, and my wash kinda pooled a bit in ways I don't think is ideal. But I still think it looks fine in a tabletop-quality sorta way. -I have no idea why, but my Vallejo Game Color reds feel super thin all of a sudden. Like, I did six coats on the chainsword before I said gently caress it and switched to Mephiston Red. -I need to drill my gun holes, I know.  Also finally get around to doing some basing.
Drone fucked around with this message at 10:38 on Sep 13, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 10:36
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Foolster41 posted:More weekly painting: I like the Chronotechnician figure, I just recently painted one of her too. Though I think that the non-Bones version of the Chronotechnician might have been even better as a Winry-type, since she even comes with a big wrench she can carry instead of the gun. EDIT: See, here's my painted metal Chronotechnician, holding a wrench. 
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Sep 13, 2015 15:34
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I am going to order a form 1+ resin based 3d printer and a filament based printer with the extra cash I have in the budget for the maker space I run at work. I would love to use it occasionally for printing minis, especially 10mm and 28mm scale ones. Do any if you have any resources for getting started in that, be it just tips on doing the digital sculpture with casting in mind, places that do releases of open source models, etc?
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Sep 13, 2015 16:02
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I think Germ is the only warham goon printing stuff at the moment, I have a Micro 3d but haven't been able to play around with it yet.
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Sep 13, 2015 16:08
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Thanks for all the replies, lot of useful bits to think about!thespaceinvader posted:Overall looks good, the lens on the droid in particular is well done as is the droid overall, but you need some sort of colour variation in your robes, they look like they're just one flat colour right now without any shading/highlighting/washing, so they seem really flat. For a first try though, nicely done. Alrighty, thanks. Believe it or not there's at least 3 individual colors in there in multiple layers, but... yeah. I agree with the final impression. The difference between each color seemed too much, so I think I ended up covering a lot of my base layers while trying to blend up. JackMann posted:Seconding on the droid lens. Looks like you got a good guide on gems. Guides are good while you're learning techniques. I didn't find a guide on gems when I started out, and I did them completely rear end-backwards. You've pretty clearly gotten the technique down. I actually just read a bit of text where someone described doing that to their droid lenses, but actually looking at a guide (with pictures!) would've been good too  Some of them turned out better than others, I think I had 3 red lenses on the one, plus two smaller black ones. The others had 5 black lenses each. I'm debating trying to go back and redo the larger three lenses on those two figures with a green or blue in the same style just to add some color. Given that I already gave a gloss & matte varnish to the whole model this may be more trouble than it's worth at the moment.Ilor posted:What others have said about the lenses - nice job with those. Huh, okay, hadn't though about doing white under a highlight. I'll have to try that. Since most of the critique & advice was about the red, I figure I should explain my actual process there and see if there's a definite point I went astray. So I hit the entire model with a thinned glaze of VGC 'Heavy Red' after my half-assed attempt at zenithal priming. I then hit the robes/helmet again with a second layer of 'heavy red,' essentially a basecoat. I washed the robes with VGC 'Red Wash'. Started my next layer with what I thought was a pretty thin VGC 'Bloody Red,' but there was a very obvious difference in saturation between the previous coat and this and they didn't blend as well as I'd hoped. I ended up getting 'Bloody Red' in all but the deepest recesses of the cloak in an attempt to make the difference less stark. Did 2nd/3rd successively smaller layers of the same red, I thinned down my paint a bit more for these. Final highlights were a mix of VGC 'Bloody Red' and 'Orange Fire', I think approximately 2:1. I did two layers of this, just trying to pick out the top of the helmet & visor, the shoulders and a few ridges on the robes and the upturned hem of the robe. JerryLee posted:I find that adding orange to red makes a good highlight shade of red. In general, using a bone color (rather than pure white) to mix with your base color can give you a highlight shade while avoiding the problem of looking pastel. Both of these are tips I read somewhere in this forum rather than things I discovered myself, incidentally. thespaceinvader posted:Using yellow-yellow will only normally work on red, orange, bright green though, bear in mind. It works particularly nicely on light green. On other colours using a bone colour as a mixer is a good tip. Mixing a little blue into shading can work, but you're better using a shade somewhere in between anyway, i.e. shading green with dark greeny-blue, shading purple with blue, shading red with purple, etc. Even shading yellow with orange CAN work if you're careful, though yellow's a bitch. Hm, alright. More stuff to think about & try out! I've got 1 more royal guard model to mess around on, although this one has some armor plates etc. as well. I'm not sure I have any other models that I could just practice blending & shading reds on. I guess I could try on some paper, but I don't know how well that translates back to a model. After I make more progress with the rest of the figures, I may go back and strip the guards I did and start from scratch with some of the above tips in mind. Anyway, my next project was gonna be a whole boatload of different storm troopers, so... any hot tips on shading & highlighting for white? At this point they've been primed white, then on about half of the models I painted in the larger "black" areas with a dark grey and hit the entire model with a black wash to try to bring out the detail. My plan from there was just to take the armor plates and start doing successive layers of actual white, leaving the charcoal grey in the recesses of the armor. I started shading on one model so far, but again I think my layers were too thick initially. I've got maybe 15 stormtroopers altogether with varying weaponry/poses. Reference shot is below for what I considered as black areas.  Although... I may just work on painting something else for a while, the idea of trying to shade pure white on that many dudes in one go is kind of daunting.
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Sep 13, 2015 16:22
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Hauki posted:Anyway, my next project was gonna be a whole boatload of different storm troopers, so... any hot tips on shading & highlighting for white? Don't paint white white. Paint it a really, really light grey. I use Ulthuan Grey, wash it with Drakenhof Nightshade (a blue wash) and then bring it back up to Ulthuan Grey while leaving the shade in the recesses. I use white for the actual highlights.You could use a black/grey wash if you wanted instead, just be careful not to overdo it.  
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Sep 13, 2015 16:42
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nesbit37 posted:I am going to order a form 1+ resin based 3d printer and a filament based printer with the extra cash I have in the budget for the maker space I run at work. I would love to use it occasionally for printing minis, especially 10mm and 28mm scale ones. Do any if you have any resources for getting started in that, be it just tips on doing the digital sculpture with casting in mind, places that do releases of open source models, etc? It's fun, go for it  I'm getting my stuff printed at Shapeways but would love to have my own resin based printer. Stuff like model orientation would be extremely useful to be able to control.I used Blender for building what I printed so far. It's extremely powerful, especially considering that it's free. It has traditonal modelling as well as sculpting (I haven't tried that). Blender even has a 3D printing module to optimize your model for printing and export it! Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Sep 13, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 17:07
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Indolent Bastard posted:Nice body horror monster. An honest criticism; work on getting those mold lines off, and your blending (while still better than mine) could use some subtlety, it is fairly harsh right now and the whole thing would improve if the transition between colours was softer. Yeah the mold lines are a pain, and are why I hate PVC casts of organic things. It just doesn't come off easily, and I was worried about the detail which are already soft.
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Sep 13, 2015 19:34
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Crossposting from the WH40K thread, I've actually gotten some poo poo done! Biker Squad 7, 'Primus':       Devastator Squad 9, 'Echo'        2nd Company Captain Vorador, with Command Squad of handpicked veterans of the 77:        I had a lot of fun painting these guys. Aside from the bikers, most of them are second-hand rescue marines gotten for cheap/free, stripped and repainted; I particularly love the Command Squad and its selection of old metal veterans. These old minis have a lot of character, and the dumpy little ancient Apothecary in particular warms the core of my cold and black heart.
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Sep 13, 2015 23:08
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Drake_263, them's some good looking Marines. I dig the command squad too, even if the dude with the powerfist and plasma pistol looks more confused than aggressive. Nice use of the Sternguard sword resting arm bit on the Apothecary too. Also just chiming in to say I really don't like Army Painter's Warpaints. It's taking me 2-4 coats of Skeleton Bone to cover Skeleton Bone primer with a moderate wash, and the color of the spray and bottle paint aren't the same. It's weirdly thick and thin at the same time, even after shaking it up a lot. Their Angel Green is way, way too thin for a green that dark, and Greenskin is literally the worst paint I've ever used. The color would look good in theory, but it's so loving thin that it won't cover white primer easily. It's about as lovely as the grass paint that one goon made to paint the craptank. I tried mixing it with another green when I was short on a highlight color and it was taking me multiple coats just to do edge highlights. Their Crystal Blue has always worked fine for my Ultras but it chips way too easily. Their sprays are good, at least.
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Sep 14, 2015 00:43
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While I wait for daylight to see if that helps me take a better picture of my oath (seriously, my usual setup does not want to show the colors properly on that thing for some reason) here's a Crocodile Games flesh hulk I painted up. 
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Sep 14, 2015 03:04
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SRM posted:Drake_263, them's some good looking Marines. I dig the command squad too, even if the dude with the powerfist and plasma pistol looks more confused than aggressive. Nice use of the Sternguard sword resting arm bit on the Apothecary too. Thank you! The Apothecary came with a plastic chainsword arm (and the blade snapped off when I stripped him), so I decided he could use an upgrade. I've had the same problem with geedubs' Warboss Green (the Goblin Green equivalent) that I use for the green bits on my Marines, actually - it's got poo poo all for coverage, and I have to paint two thin layers over white primer to get a halfway smooth color. On the flipside, then way I do these guys, I paint the base colors, wash them with Seraphim Sepia, and highlight - the paint being so thin and translucent means I can do multiple layers of WBG and get a fairly smooth gradient from 'green with sepia wash' back to 'pure green'.
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Sep 14, 2015 07:30
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Got my copy of Dreadball today! What's the best glue to use for Mantic's plastic? Looking at the plastic it seems like good CA glue is the way to go, doesn't look like plastic cement will work. Normally I prefer to just try it but hey it's the start of the work day and I want to get these dudes built :P
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Sep 14, 2015 10:23
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So does Dreadball have the same character as Blood Bowl when you get into playing leagues? Or does it too suffer from a sorta vague but pervading feeling of genericness? I mean, I've watched a bunch of the Dreadball Academy videos on Youtube and I definitely want to try to play the game, but I feel like it just can't scratch the itch in the same way Blood Bowl does (then again I've only ever played Blood Bowl in the Cyanide versions).
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Sep 14, 2015 11:59
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Don't really know but since I was encouraged by the Dreadball chat in the GW Death Thread I might ask there, the Mantic games thread seems to be pretty centered on Kings of War for now!
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Sep 14, 2015 12:25
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Drone posted:So does Dreadball have the same character as Blood Bowl when you get into playing leagues? Or does it too suffer from a sorta vague but pervading feeling of genericness? What do you mean by genericness? You might prefer Dreadball Xtreme krushgroove posted:Got my copy of Dreadball today! What's the best glue to use for Mantic's plastic? Looking at the plastic it seems like good CA glue is the way to go, doesn't look like plastic cement will work. I use SCIGRIP 16 but if you don't want to get into industrial adhesives then yeah CA is the way to go
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Sep 14, 2015 13:23
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Aaaand here's my completed oath for this month.   I really wanted to do a good job on this because not only is it one of my favorite enemies ever, the mini itself was a gift from one of my dearest friends. I think I'm satisfied with the end result.
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Sep 14, 2015 17:01
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JerryLee posted:Aaaand here's my completed oath for this month. Hell yeah.
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Sep 14, 2015 17:29
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That's awesome on so many levels. Is that an official model? I always wanted a cyberdaemon!
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Sep 14, 2015 17:29
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HardCoil posted:That's awesome on so many levels. Is that an official model? I always wanted a cyberdaemon! Yeah, there was a whole range done by Reaper back in the day. They don't make them any more though, so they're a bit rare and expensive on the secondary market. There IS the Doom board game though, which you can find for fairly cheap and comes with a whole mess of models. All based on Doom 3, so YMMV.
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Sep 14, 2015 17:51
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Does anyone know what the functional difference between Vallejo's Thinner (70.524) and Matte Medium (70.540) is? They sound about the same. (Specifically, I want something other than water for thinning my paints, since there are a few paints that seem to be more sensitive to having too much water in them.)
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Sep 14, 2015 20:55
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Matte medium won't thin your paint- it will make the pigment count lower while keeping the same consistency. If you are looking for thinner, then you can grab Vallejo's thinner. Or windex.
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Sep 14, 2015 21:13
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The thinner is for an airbrush, it doesn't really work well as a medium though The matt medium is the posh water replacement you want ^it will thin your paints, its what I use cos I'm posh
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Sep 14, 2015 21:14
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BULBASAUR posted:Matte medium won't thin your paint- it will make the pigment count lower while keeping the same consistency. If you are looking for thinner, then you can grab Vallejo's thinner. Or windex. Skarsnik posted:^it will thin your paints, its what I use cos I'm posh These seem to contradict each other... Skarsnik posted:The thinner is for an airbrush, it doesn't really work well as a medium though There's also Vallejo Airbrush Thinner (71.261), but I was talking about the regular Thinner Medium (70.524), which I assume is something different. There seems to be a lot of overlap in the Vallejo stuff, so I'm wondering what does what, exactly. For reference, here's the page of all the various mediums I was looking at: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-paints/auxiliary-products/3/22 e: As a note, I already have Glaze Medium for washes, which also sounds very similar to Matte Medium, except I'm guessing it's heavier on the "making your paint transparent". Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 22:35
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Yeah, when you say "thin" do you mean "will flow easily into tiny cracks" or "will be slightly translucent, leading to finer color gradations" or just "won't leave brush marks"? For the first, LiquiTex FlowAid is what you want, because you're trying to change the viscosity and surface tension of the paint. For the second, Matte Medium is what you want, because you're trying to change the pigment density of the paint. For the third, water is what you want, although you can use a thinning medium like Citadel Lahmian Medium as well, because you're trying to chance the consistency of the paint. Does this help?
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Sep 14, 2015 22:44
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Matte Medium is not a thinner. I swear. It is basically paint without the pigment. I use it for layering to increase the transparency of the paint without making it start to flow like a wash or whatever. Thinner Medium is more like adding water in that it dilutes the paint and makes it flow more.
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Sep 14, 2015 22:45
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Ilor posted:Yeah, when you say "thin" do you mean "will flow easily into tiny cracks" or "will be slightly translucent, leading to finer color gradations" or just "won't leave brush marks"? That's helpful, yeah. I realized after posting that despite the whole "THIN YOUR PAINTS" thing, what people mean by "thin" is actually pretty vague. Mainly I want the third, since I already have Glaze Medium for translucency (and I think it'll work for adjusting the surface tension as well). e: I did some more research and it seems like Glaze Medium is about the same as Matte Medium + water (or acrylic thinner, I guess). If I ever run out of Glaze Medium, maybe I'll just get Matte and thin it down. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 22:49
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I've been thinning my paints (the third definition of it above, although 2 and 3 are really the same thing) with Vallejo matt medium for a while now. It thins it out without the pigment separating out like water can. Maybe 80% of my painting is done with it If I want to do some 'proper' wet blending I'll use glaze medium instead If I'm making a wash or glaze, I use Lahmian medium I've found the vellejo thinner doesn't work so well as it separates out on your pallet (i.e, not a good medium). Through an airbrush though its perfect I apparently get good results from this, so if I'm doing it all wrong, then I dunno Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 23:50
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HardCoil posted:That's awesome on so many levels. Is that an official model? I always wanted a cyberdaemon! Slimnoid posted:Yeah, there was a whole range done by Reaper back in the day. They don't make them any more though, so they're a bit rare and expensive on the secondary market. The Reaper models got a limited re-run a couple of years ago, I want to say for the Doom 20th anniversary commemorations. You had to buy the entire box set for like 100+ bucks and I was poor(er) then so I didn't really get to take advantage.  I don't know why they can't just be licensed as part of Reaper's perpetual catalog. I can only assume that it's because Bethesda has almost as neurotic a relationship with their intellectual property as GW does.
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Sep 15, 2015 01:01
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Current WIP is Neran the Scary. 
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Sep 15, 2015 02:10
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JerryLee posted:The Reaper models got a limited re-run a couple of years ago, I want to say for the Doom 20th anniversary commemorations. You had to buy the entire box set for like 100+ bucks and I was poor(er) then so I didn't really get to take advantage. Considering how fun they look, I'm thinking about emailing Bethesda, because that would be a great gimmick for a collector's edition.
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Sep 15, 2015 02:27
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Avenging Dentist posted:e: I did some more research and it seems like Glaze Medium is about the same as Matte Medium + water (or acrylic thinner, I guess). If I ever run out of Glaze Medium, maybe I'll just get Matte and thin it down. Welp, I guess today's the day I run out of Glaze Medium, since it exploded out the bottle all over my palette.  I am beginning to regret trying to get back into painting.
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Sep 15, 2015 03:55
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dr_ether posted:Current WIP is Neran the Scary. I think I found myself a Hodgepodge Effigy proxy for Malifaux.
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Sep 15, 2015 04:44
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Sorry for all the thinning questions, but I'm trying to understand the actual mechanics at work here so I get some intuition what I'm doing. (It doesn't help that lots of information online is contradictory.) So, I know that acrylic paint is pigment + acrylic resin (binder) + water (vehicle). My understanding is that stuff like Matte Medium is just binder (Vallejo's even says "100% acrylic resin"). Specifically, it's the binder that you get in a normal bottle of matte paint. I know you can use different binders to get a different level of gloss (Matte Medium vs Gloss Medium). Vallejo's Glaze Medium and Thinner Medium are also "100% acrylic resin", so I suppose you can also affect the overall transparency and viscosity; then again, their Metal Medium is "100% acrylic resin", and I know for a fact that mica isn't an acrylic, so maybe their labeling isn't strictly accurate. The vehicle's obvious (water!), but you can also gently caress with that by using a surfactant to break surface tension (e.g. flow improver). There are still some points that confuse me, though. It's not entirely clear if different binders can affect the transparency of your paint in different ways. I'm guessing not, since they all dry clear, but then I'm not totally sure what makes a Glaze Medium different from a Matte Medium (maybe some differences in viscosity/surface tension?). It's also unclear to me what the differences between a wash and a glaze are (technique aside). Some people consider washes to be thicker than glazes, and others vice versa. I've also seen people say you want more surface tension for washes and vice-versa (including people who use PVA glue in their washes to add surface tension!). Here's the best I can figure out for recipes I'd want to use. If I'm wrong and dumb, let me know: Basecoating: Paint thinned slightly with water (something like 2:1 or 3:1 paint:water). Highlighting: Paint thinned more with water, possibly some matte medium for extra transparency (something like 1:1:1 paint:water:medium, or no medium for paints that are already transparent enough). Maybe add some flow improver if you want a really thin coat of paint. Washing: Like the highlighting recipe, but more extreme (1:4:2 paint:water:medium). Mediums with higher surface tension help (matte medium seems good here, glaze medium probably less so). Glazing: Like the wash recipe, but with less surface tension so it doesn't form big droplets (maybe 1:4:1 paint:water:medium + some flow improver?). Oh, and here are my sources (aside from this thread): http://www.theeclecticgamer.com/2011/03/16/creating-washes-for-miniature-painting/ http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/A_basic_course_in_Acrylic_Mediums http://handcannononline.com/blog/2011/05/11/tutorial-basics-this-plus-that-equals-additives-and-their-uses/ http://theleadheadblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/making-your-own-washes.html Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 21:03
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This is almost exactly wrong. The difference between a wash and a glaze is consistency. A wash is designed to have an extremely thin (water-like) consistency and very low surface tension such that it flows easily into all of the recesses on the model and doesn't bead up. When washes bead up, they have the opposite you usually want, because they deposit the pigment around the edges as the bead dries, rather than deeper in the recesses like they're supposed to. A glaze is designed to have a somewhat thinner consistency and (most importantly) higher translucency than paint. You don't want to thin your glaze down too much because then it won't stay where you put it (i.e. it'll just run into the crevices like a wash). The point of a wash is usually to darken the color in the recesses of a mini in such a way that the color gradations are more subtle. The point of a glaze is to apply pigment that is translucent enough to allow the color beneath it to show through, which makes color gradations more subtle. Washes are typically used for shading. Glazes are typically used for highlighting.
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Sep 15, 2015 21:28
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Ilor posted:This is almost exactly wrong. So then the first link I posted is wrong? That sucks, cuz it's the one that seemed to have the most thorough explanation (with pictures). Ok, how does this sound (I'm operating under the assumption that breaking surface tension means "self-leveling"): Basecoating: Paint thinned slightly with water (2:1 or 3:1 paint:water). Highlighting: Paint thinned more with water, possibly some matte medium for extra transparency (1:1:1 paint:water:medium, or no medium for paints that are already transparent enough). Maybe add a little flow improver to help self-leveling if you want a really thin coat of paint or if the paint goes on kind of chunky. Glazing: Like the highlighting recipe, but even thinner; extra binder becomes more important here (1:4:2 paint:water:medium + a little flow improver if necessary). Washing: Even thinner than a glaze, and relying on a flow improver to self-level so the wash smoothly fades out from crevices (2:4:1 paint:water:flow improver, maybe even less paint for more subtle washes; is extra medium/binder necessary at all here?). (I'm sure I can experiment with the exact ratios, but I want to be sure I have a rough idea of the direction I need to go before I buy a bunch more crap.) e: One final question: so a wash has lower viscosity and much lower surface tension than a glaze, right? Still, I see a lot of people say that glazes are "thinner" than washes; would it be correct to say that a glaze has lower pigment density than a wash? Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 21:53
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Ilor has it right. For your wash recipe you want water, matte medium, flow improver, and water proof pigments (you can't use regular paint here as it will break up in all the water). Regarding highlights I'm not sure what exactly you are trying to accomplish with a recipe. Highlighting is a technique and not a recipe (you will use different consistencies for different kinds of highlights with different kinds of painting methods). Now to confuse you even more: there are also things called 'filters'
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Sep 15, 2015 21:58
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Since we're talking basics, how often, if at all, do you all wash dry palettes? I've got that standard round plastic palette and most of the cups, or whatever the term is, have paint in them and I don't know if it's safe to put paint over the dried paint or if doing so will tint the fresh paint with the dried paint. I also figure it's not great for the water supply to try and scrub old paint off a palette so what's the SOP here?
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Sep 15, 2015 22:18
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BULBASAUR posted:Ilor has it right. For your wash recipe you want water, matte medium, flow improver, and water proof pigments (you can't use regular paint here as it will break up in all the water). I was pulling the wash recipe from here: "I made this wash with a flow release solution (20% flow release to purified water) and paint; 2:1 solution to paint." In searching, I've definitely seen a lot of wash recipes that use paint (and a lot that use ink too); is there really no way to get something wash-like using paint? BULBASAUR posted:Regarding highlights I'm not sure what exactly you are trying to accomplish with a recipe. Highlighting is a technique and not a recipe (you will use different consistencies for different kinds of highlights with different kinds of painting methods). I was just noting that down for completeness, since I usually thin my layer paints more than my basecoats. It's not strictly necessary for the list, though. It also seems like there's a continuum from a layer paint/"highlight" to an actual glaze, since I guess you could use a thicker "glaze" more like a layer paint. BULBASAUR posted:Now to confuse you even more: there are also things called 'filters' Filters use oil paints, right? I'll just stick with acrylics and maybe inks for now.
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Sep 15, 2015 22:22
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rantmo posted:Since we're talking basics, how often, if at all, do you all wash dry palettes? I've got that standard round plastic palette and most of the cups, or whatever the term is, have paint in them and I don't know if it's safe to put paint over the dried paint or if doing so will tint the fresh paint with the dried paint. I also figure it's not great for the water supply to try and scrub old paint off a palette so what's the SOP here?
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Sep 15, 2015 22:41
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