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Glad you guys are interested. I'll snap some more pics next time I'm there. I work on the displays every Monday, but do classes there during the rest of the week. The museum is the Royal Danish Naval Museum in Copenhagen. I also work at the Royal Danish Arsenal Museum, where I have access to the library, with tonnes of books, primary sources and drawings, and a Pak40 and an 88, which helped me immensely while working on just those guns when I started out modelling for war gaming.The Locator posted:Because I'm a nerd, I went looking for information about the Fyen. Close but not quite. There has been a total of 4 different Danish naval ships with the name Fyen (Fyen is an antiquated spelling of Fyn, the second largest island in Denmark, and the naming tradition in the 18th century dictated that medium-large ships were named after regions of the country). The one I showed was built in Denmark from 1735, launched in 1738 and proven to be too unstable for naval use, so it was sold off for private use in 1746. That same year, a new Fyen was acquired from the British. It was, apparently, a 60-gun heavy frigate/ship of the line called Augusta, launched in 1737, and rebuilt for Danish specifications to accommodate 50 guns instead. I can't be completely sure about how it was acquired, but Denmark was not at war with the British until 1807-1814, so I'm guessing it was simply bought. I can't explain why her operator is listed as the Royal Navy, except if it is a translation misunderstanding seeing as the Danish Navy is also known as 'The Royal (Danish) Navy'. Edit. Other models of note: One of the few models with intact rigging from the early 18th century. It looks totally weird because it's a church ship, so was meant to be seen from below, so they built it with really strange proportions. A huge ship of the line from 1807. Even bigger than the Fyen model. Copenhagen Naval Base "Holmen" in the 1760's. Showing the huge scale of the infrastructure needed to keep a wooden fleet sailing. The last wooden ship of the line built in Denmark in 1850 in two versions: First how she looked when she was built, second how she looked when she was rebuilt as a steam engine driven ironclad. A construction model of a British ship of the line, taken apart along the keel, showing all of the interior. A series of small models showing the evolution of industrial era ships to the battleships of WWII. Loads more. Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Sep 14, 2015 |
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Sep 14, 2015 19:40
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Would be very interested in seeing Holmen.
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Sep 15, 2015 01:23
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Throbbing blob posted:Glad you guys are interested. I'll snap some more pics next time I'm there. I work on the displays every Monday, but do classes there during the rest of the week. The museum is the Royal Danish Naval Museum in Copenhagen. I also work at the Royal Danish Arsenal Museum, where I have access to the library, with tonnes of books, primary sources and drawings, and a Pak40 and an 88, which helped me immensely while working on just those guns when I started out modelling for war gaming. That's what I get for trying to do google research on my phone at work.  Thanks for the correction of my information and expanded history of the ship. Based on where you are, I'm sure you have the best information available on that ship. Denmark was quite the naval power in that era, the list of Danish ships of the line is impressive.
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Sep 15, 2015 03:53
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Ok, I'll try and get some decent pics of Holmen. Those are actually two huge dioramas showing the old and new location of the naval base and shipyard of Copenhagen. If I remember, I'll bring my camera instead of just my phone. The Locator posted:That's what I get for trying to do google research on my phone at work. Well, I think my primary advantage is having access to the Danish Language. This database contains information on most Danish warships, but it's mostly in Danish and even 18th century Danish at that: https://www.orlogsbasen.dk There used to be another database called "the Black Registrant" which had all the facts and numbers about the Danish warships, including a short history, but that is unfortunately offline these days. With that I could get much more reliable info, e.g. about where we got the Augusta from, or maybe even why the 1736 Fyen was such a terrible ship. Also, yes Denmark was a relatively powerful naval power. My country has a long history, where you can point to any number of years or events, and claim that this is the point we went from regional power to minor state. One of the biggest ones is probably when the British attacked Copenhagen in 1807, and took our entire fleet. With only about 2% of the land area of Denmark still covered by forest (compare with 12% today), it was impossible to build a new one.
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Sep 15, 2015 07:13
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Oh crap I kind of managed to screw up this 1/48 Hanomag with an old varnish that dried up in clumps on the vehicle. I threw some pigment on it since it's to be used in a wargame campaign starting this month, and then I called it done:   
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Sep 15, 2015 20:10
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1:48th seems a bit big for wargaming, especially with vehicles. Is your table enormous?
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Sep 15, 2015 20:30
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Ensign Expendable posted:1:48th seems a bit big for wargaming, especially with vehicles. Is your table enormous? It's for 28mm scale. It's a tiny bit too large, since 28mm is originally "supposed to be" 1/56, but nowadays pretty much all 28mm scale minis are at least 1/50 scale. It's for Chain of Command which is mainly a platoon level game. Since you're usually fielding around 35-45 guys and 1-2 vehicles or guns for support, you can play it on a 4'x6' table if you use 28mm scale. Getting into it was pretty much what made me start building model kits, and this is my 5th or 6th kit this far. So now I have way too many tanks, but there's always the excuse that I don't have a Panzer IV, or a Marder, or... E: but yeah, now we built enough table and terrain to make 4'x8' tables, which means we need more terrain, so it's a vicious cycle. 
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Sep 15, 2015 20:39
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That's pretty close to warham scale right? Their vehicles can get pretty huge.
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Sep 15, 2015 20:41
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Baronjutter posted:That's pretty close to warham scale right? Their vehicles can get pretty huge. Yup, that's pretty much the same size. Or O scale if you are into trains.
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Sep 15, 2015 20:43
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I played a game similar to that (I forget the name now, but also WWII at a scale where you were controlling individual guys at about that scale) at a friends house not too long ago. They played on a pair of long folding tables pushed together and then covered with terrain, so about 5' x 7' I think? It's a pretty good excuse to make lots of little models for sure.
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Sep 15, 2015 20:46
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The Locator posted:I played a game similar to that (I forget the name now, but also WWII at a scale where you were controlling individual guys at about that scale) at a friends house not too long ago. They played on a pair of long folding tables pushed together and then covered with terrain, so about 5' x 7' I think? Absolutely. The only disadvantage is that you often want to rush things to get them ready for a game, and the paint will get damaged anyway from handling, so I don't feel the urge to give them a "display level" paintjob. I also think that vehicles with dioramas, even if it's just a flat square of sand or a road, look better. So it would be fun to do something like that some time as well, to really try to get a good result instead of just wanting to get it done.
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Sep 15, 2015 20:51
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Took me two nights to do all the fiddly little rigging on the spreader yard, and it's not even on the ship yet. In the middle, from the inside out are attached: Jeers block Parrel Foot rope Block for Topsail sheet On the outside (at both ends), again from the inside out are attached: Foot rope Block for Topsail sheet Aft brace pendant Fore brace pendant Lifts One of the reasons it took so long is that the Jeers block (the big double block in the middle), the parrel (will hold the yard to the spreader horse) and both the inner block are attached by lashings. Instead of simply being tied around the yard, they are rigged like this:  To attach them to the yard, another line (thread due to scale) is 'lashed' back and forth between the two eye splices, holding them to the yard. Pain in the butt, with lots of seizing. Also the Parrel has to be served, and there is no way to do it off the ship, so it's done by hand, in place while attached to the yard. Sucked. To actually attach this to the ship, it's done in two parts. The Parrel gets wrapped around the Spreader Horse, and then the end that's currently loose gets lashed around the yard to secure it. Second, the Jeers Block gets rigged to the other block that is already attached to the mast at the tree. Later on down the road a third step will happen, when the lifts (the coils of tan rope in the first picture) get rigged through blocks on the top yard and then belayed down to the deck. It's really quite interesting how these things were rigged, the actual tension of the sail is mostly taken by the braces which are attached to the deck, as the yard isn't really firmly attached to the mast at all.
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Sep 16, 2015 06:50
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drat that's a huge project. I never quite realised how much work goes into any wooden ship, let alone one of the line. It's looking fine, too, Locator. Also thanks for the planning tute, that'll help a bunch if I ever try again. I've nearly finished the plastic bits on the Tirpitz.  Er..  These 1/350 ships aren't cheap, but they are certainly packed with things to do. The forward super structure is several assemblies in itself, not including search lights or masts.   And there's still plenty of photo etch to go before painting.. 
Pidgin Englishman fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 07:20
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Sanguine posted:drat that's a huge project. I never quite realised how much work goes into any wooden ship, let alone one of the line. It's looking fine, too, Locator. Thanks, and neither did I! If I ever tackle a ship of the line, it will probably be years from now after I've retired. Sanguine posted:I've nearly finished the plastic bits on the Tirpitz. Your crew appears to be somewhat oversized. Looking good. I've never done photo-etch, how do you go about painting it, just air-brush it with everything else? What if it needs to be a different color? Does it require any sort of special preparation?
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Sep 16, 2015 07:38
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The Locator posted:Looking good. I've never done photo-etch, how do you go about painting it, just air-brush it with everything else? What if it needs to be a different color? Does it require any sort of special preparation? You generally don't need to do anything with photoetch to prep it, but if you want to be rock solid there are things you can do. You can give it a light sand with fine grit sandpaper to give it some tooth for later painting. You can also give it a bath in something strong like Acetone, and then a rinse in water to remove any oils on it. Handling with gloves is recommended as well. Priming is recommended as well, because many standard paints may have difficulty adhering with any strength to brass. Didn't your boat come with photoetch though? I thought you had some pieces you blackened...
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Sep 16, 2015 08:04
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The Locator posted:Thanks, and neither did I! If I ever tackle a ship of the line, it will probably be years from now after I've retired. I hate when the hull gets cavitated 
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Sep 16, 2015 09:41
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Are there any good gloss coats that are alcohol insoluble? I tried out Testor's Glosscote and while it's a great product, alcohol ate right through it.
everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 11:19 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 11:13
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Boomer The Cannon posted:As far as the Bachmann set, how old is it? I started with Bachmann and Tyco around that same age 25 years (!) ago and it was poo poo, but their modern sets are much better as far as reliability. They also have EZ track, which are interlocking track pieces with roadbed attached, which would be great for a beginner. Thanks Boomer and HJP! The Bachmann set has to be over 20 years old as there's no website on any of the literature or catalogs. We made a 4x4 mock up, and yah, you guys are quite right, not much happening beyond a simple loop. We're still working on a few ideas. If we can get just a bit more space we might be able to make something interesting. I'll keep the thread posted!
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Sep 16, 2015 12:48
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Is this what Black Sabbath meant with the song War Pigs? 
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Sep 16, 2015 14:33
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everythingWasBees posted:Are there any good gloss coats that are alcohol insoluble? I tried out Testor's Glosscote and while it's a great product, alcohol ate right through it. Out of curiosity, did you let it cure for a couple days? I was going to suggest Future + time, but I've only tested it out with oil thinner.
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Sep 16, 2015 15:40
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You generally don't need to do anything with photoetch to prep it, but if you want to be rock solid there are things you can do. You can give it a light sand with fine grit sandpaper to give it some tooth for later painting. You can also give it a bath in something strong like Acetone, and then a rinse in water to remove any oils on it. Handling with gloves is recommended as well. Priming is recommended as well, because many standard paints may have difficulty adhering with any strength to brass. Thanks for the information. No, the boat did not come with any photo-etch. There are brass parts, made out of bar stock or round stock, but much like so many other things on the boat, there are no pre-made brass parts (other than eye-bolts), you just have to form the brass into the needed shape yourself. Since I just blackened all the brass, none of it is painted.
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Sep 16, 2015 16:25
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I thought I'd expand a bit on the photo etch stuff. Sorry for all the pics, but I think they help get the point across best. I'll go through the process of putting a ladder on a piece of centre hull. The piece goes here:  First make a little pool of CA glue:  Then dip the piece in:  poo poo! No problem, just pick it up quick before it dries to the boat:  Nearly! It dried to the tweezers. Oh well, happens!  Just carefully pry it off. Ah. Well, I'm sure there's a spare!  So with the spare we'll try pre-gluing the plastic:  A little crooked, just nudge it while the glue is wet:  Bugger, that tends to happen as it takes some force to break the new bonds. Ah, and now the glue is dry.  No problem, just pry it off with a knife blade.  Guess it wasn't that dry! Careful cutting it off your finger.  Replace the piece. Ah yeah, the glue is dry.  Ok, now pour a new pool of CA as the old one has gone tacky:  And this time we'll use accelerator to help it along:  And done!  Now just repeat 500 times over the whole model.
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Sep 17, 2015 00:37
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Hahaha... perfect examples of why I avoid using CA as much as possible.
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Sep 17, 2015 00:42
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Why don't you use the gel CA glue? Put some on a post-it, grab a tiny bit with a sharpened cocktail stick and voilá! CA glue where you wanted and not all over the place like with that runny stuff
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Sep 17, 2015 00:58
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I only use CA unless I am gap filling. It's great once you get the hang of the flow. Normally the stuff that causes me problems will be the stuff that other glues won't cure fast enough to hold in place at all anyway.
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Sep 17, 2015 02:10
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I use CA when I'm not gluing wood to wood. I use it for securing the seizings on my rigging when I am unsure that a water/PVA mix will be enough on a specific piece of rigging. Other than that I avoid it simply because of the way it interacts with wood and make the finish a pain since it actually soaks into the wood so it can't be sanded off (realizing that 95% of my wood is left natural). I dislike that it darkens the rigging too, but it's a trade-off for the ability to quickly secure a seizing or tiny knot in a piece of thread so I don't have to wait 60 minutes after every stupid knot or seizing to move on to the next piece.
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Sep 17, 2015 02:17
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I know I've said it before, but superglue doesn't dry on wax paper, so you can pour out a blob and then use all of it.
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Sep 17, 2015 02:31
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Yeah, for wood to wood the porousness of the material is both a blessing and a curse for CA glueing. Means the wooden wargames terrain I have built is super strong, but it also means it really has to be painted.
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Sep 17, 2015 02:32
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The Locator posted:I dislike that it darkens the rigging too, but it's a trade-off for the ability to quickly secure a seizing or tiny knot in a piece of thread so I don't have to wait 60 minutes after every stupid knot or seizing to move on to the next piece. there's express pva. Mine cures in single digit minutes.
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Sep 17, 2015 04:16
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I've had good luck just using that Crystal Clear or what ever glue as a generic glue for detail bits.
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Sep 17, 2015 05:49
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Oh god... So. Many. Ropes. Neither yard is up yet either...
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Sep 17, 2015 05:57
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  Detail of the attachment point. The ropes on the jeers blocks (the big ones that hold the yard) are loose looking because there is nothing pulling downward on the yard yet. Here you can see how the yard actually just hangs from above, and attaches via the rope parrel to the horse - that rope that I rigged quite a few weeks ago that runs along the front of the mast. It doesn't attach directly to the mast like I always figured the yards did, it sort of floats in front of it and all the rigging is what takes all the tension from the yard and sail. 
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Sep 17, 2015 07:45
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Hey guys, are we doing the Hi-Mock for the next group build? I've got some ideas.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:00
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We have a while to decide yet I think. Did we even decide what month we're doing it in?
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Sep 17, 2015 19:42
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Arquinsiel posted:We have a while to decide yet I think. Did we even decide what month we're doing it in? I'm not sure I'll paint up a gundam, as I doubt I could get it as cheap over here. But I'd be happy to see other people paint up some robbits, and then join in for the next crapkit.
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Sep 17, 2015 19:55
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Hey guys let's all do N scale trains. Guys?? Hello???
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Sep 17, 2015 20:05
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Baronjutter posted:Hey guys let's all do N scale trains. Guys?? Hello???
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Sep 17, 2015 20:19
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Well, I'm nearly finished that Ju 290 I was building. And I don't really have any place to put or display it. What do you guys do for display?
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Sep 17, 2015 23:21
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Most of my stuff is displayed in a cardboard box inside a plastic box in the shed.
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Sep 17, 2015 23:47
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I just picked up a 1:12 scale project which I'm going to attempt to customize. It's currently just the wooden superstructure. I'm going to need to do some repairs and reshaping before finishing the exterior, then I'll have to construct a lot of hand-made fittings for the interior so it's historically accurate. Is discussion on that interesting/appropriate for this thread? It's a dollhouse: http://i.imgur.com/RRaAPHK.jpg
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Sep 18, 2015 01:04
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