|
We don't see your video either.
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 00:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 04:58 |
|
|
Yeah, sorry, it took a long time to publish. Should be there now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 01:48
|
|
|
hooah posted:Ok, I tried to take a video of that location, but I don't see a nut:  Sorry for the small pic my full size video wasn't rotating.. The nut is circled.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 02:59
|
|
|
hooah posted:Ok, I tried to take a video of that location, but I don't see a nut:  E:fb
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 03:02
|
|
|
To be more specific, this "nut" doesn't have a hex head. It looks like yours is knurled.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 04:24
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:To be more specific, this "nut" doesn't have a hex head. It looks like yours is knurled. That's what was throwing me; I was expecting a hex nut. Thanks, I'll try to tackle this today.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 12:29
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Have you tried a Zip It? It's a tool for pulling hair out of drains. They're super cheap. Just be careful. I put the only one in the house with hair on monthly zip it duty and she broke one off then decided to run a bunch of water? To try to get it out. This was in the tub which has a little tray to hold the plug which makes it more difficult to pull it out. Luckily I'm still dragging my feet on finishing the basement and found it about 6 feet down the line half way to the main stack. We use a regular snake now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 17:28
|
|
|
Well, I was able to unscrew the collar/"nut", but the plug didn't seem to loosen up at all. I did discover that I could unscrew the top of the plug, however, and was able to clear out a fair amount of gunk from the top of the drain. I'll just have to hope that's good enough until I can find a shallow pan or something to fit under the trap, assuming I can even remove it without it crumbling (40-year-old everything).
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 18:49
|
|
|
hooah posted:Well, I was able to unscrew the collar/"nut", but the plug didn't seem to loosen up at all. I did discover that I could unscrew the top of the plug, however, and was able to clear out a fair amount of gunk from the top of the drain. I'll just have to hope that's good enough until I can find a shallow pan or something to fit under the trap, assuming I can even remove it without it crumbling (40-year-old everything). The stopper has a loop on its bottom. You see the arm that goes through the nut you just removed? That metal rod goes further into the drain and through that loop on the bottom of the stopper. Raise the stopper and stick a screwdriver or something under the stopper so that when you remove the rod, the stopper doesn't fall flush to the sink and you can't pick it up. Next, make sure the nut is loose and pull that rod right out the back of the drain, then pull out the stopper. Do you have one of those tiny bathroom trash cans that take a plastic shopping bag as a trash bag? Take the bag out use that. I've also used a handful of rags before in a pinch. PS the hardest part will be putting the stopper back once everything is clean. It's like threading a needle, only doing it around a big tree where you can't see what you're doing. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Aug 28, 2015 |
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2015 21:22
|
|
|
hooah posted:An unrelated question: my bathroom sink is draining slowly. I've always used some sort of Drano/Liquid Plumr in the past and that's worked ok, but not this time. I did notice that my wife bought the full clog variety rather than slow drain does that really matter? If it doesn't, what else can I do to fix the drain? As someone else mentioned, a Zip It is a good method. In my case, the sink was draining slow (30 seconds or so after washing your hands, and ~10 minutes after shaving), but then stopped draining completely. The clog wasn't in the trap, though it was pretty ugly too (about 1/2 clogged). Removing the trap just emptied the sink. Stuffing the Zip It into the pipe coming out of the wall removed a shitload of hair. Had it been longer I'm sure I would have removed several pounds, instead I probably removed about half a pound had it been dry. Definitely enough to make Trump a new hairpiece or five. In my case, I don't like shaving in general, but also hate beards, so I tend to shave once or twice a week, and have pretty thick facial hair. Several years of that was enough to completely clog that sink. It still drains on the slow side, but more "30 seconds to drain after shaving, 3 seconds to drain after washing your hands". The bathroom has two sinks, but for whatever reason I prefer that sink and never touch the other one, and I've lived in this house for about 13 years. It really needs to be snaked at some point, but I hate dealing with (drain) plumbing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2015 09:40
|
|
|
Welp call a plumber if you hate it more than you like the $100 (region dependent) or so they'll charge to come and snake it for you. I also am a goon face when it comes to shaving (only shaving like once every 2-3 weeks) . Here's what I do to keep my pipes clean. Go buy a $30 beard trimmer from CVS and use it to get rid of the long stuff.. I do this over my sink with the drain plugged. Then wipe it with a damp paper towel to get up 90% of the long stuff. The. Shave with your razor and rinse it as normal.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2015 17:15
|
|
|
I have a gas fireplace with the gas line run in a crawl space at my house. About 10' from that outside wall of the gas fireplace is where my grill is, sitting on a paver stone patio. Is it possible to pop through the wall of my crawl space below grade and run a gas line out to where my grill is? I'm aware that I'd need to buy the adapter kit for the grill already.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 14:23
|
|
|
That should be possible, assuming your crawl space isn't sealed and there's enough clearance down there to actually do work.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 16:05
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:That should be possible, assuming your crawl space isn't sealed and there's enough clearance down there to actually do work. Oh that part is definitely possible. I was more concerned with what it would take to run the gas line underground. Is there an exterior grade gas line that would be used? I'd imagine the iron pipes would rust out in about 3 seconds.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 16:21
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Is there an exterior grade gas line that would be used? Yes. PE. It's what most natural gas companies use for laterals and almost all propane companies. You can use TracPipe as well, which is much better (flexible stainless steel) but will cost quite a bit more.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 16:32
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Yes. PE. This is pretty much something I should have a professional come out and do, correct?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 18:20
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:This is pretty much something I should have a professional come out and do, correct? If you aren't familiar with termination and placement, yeah. You can save a bunch of money by getting someone out to tell you where and how big of a trench to dig and then having them come back out and just lay pipe and terminate, then you can back fill. Most of the cost is going to be in the excavating.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 19:35
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I have a gas fireplace with the gas line run in a crawl space at my house. Get a pro out there to size your existing gas line. I've sized maybe a hundred houses and only a couple had the spare BTU's to add an outdoor grill to an existing gas line. Any other questions you can ask them after they have checked everything and figured out if your grill can be added to the existing line. (also if you don't know it offhand find out how many BTU's your grill is so you can give the plumber that info)
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 04:10
|
|
|
Well, it seems that the ridges on my shower faucet handle's nipple are getting too worn down for the collar to really clamp on well. Also, the set screws in the collar don't come all the way out, so it seems like it'd be a pain in the rear end to get Loctite on them. How much of an undertaking would it be to replace all three handles, nipples, etc. (hot, cold, shower on/off)? As it is, I've replaced one handle, but the screw it came with was way too long, and even after I cut it down, the plastic part still rattles on the nipple a little. The entire assemblies seem to stand out from the wall much more than newer ones; am I going to either have to cut some piping (not in my wheelhouse) or have a hard time finding hardware that's long enough?
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 14:05
|
|
|
hooah posted:Well, it seems that the ridges on my shower faucet handle's nipple are getting too worn down for the collar to really clamp on well. Also, the set screws in the collar don't come all the way out, so it seems like it'd be a pain in the rear end to get Loctite on them. How much of an undertaking would it be to replace all three handles, nipples, etc. (hot, cold, shower on/off)? As it is, I've replaced one handle, but the screw it came with was way too long, and even after I cut it down, the plastic part still rattles on the nipple a little. The entire assemblies seem to stand out from the wall much more than newer ones; am I going to either have to cut some piping (not in my wheelhouse) or have a hard time finding hardware that's long enough? There are a couple terms that should help clear things up. Those ridges are called "splines" and they are on the end of the "stem". The "nipple" is the tube that holds on the "escutcheon", the cap covering the hole in the tile and the stem. The middle handle valve is called the "diverter". As for replacing parts, you'd be limited to replacing the handles and maybe the escutcheons and the nipples holding them on. Escutcheons sometimes are proprietary and come with their nipples. Except for the universal ones that tear up your splines, handles are proprietary. You will need to get the ones that fit your stems. They are definitely user replaceable. To replace them, take both the diverter handle and either the hot or cold handle that fits better and go to the hardware store. Take all the collars too. At the store they will have a display with several example stems with splines on the end. Figure out which one your handles/collars fit, then you will know the manufacturer and the proper handles that will fit your shower. Find some that will fit, along with a matching diverter. You may have to get some longer or shorter screws as needed. In weird cases, stem extensions may be necessary, like if the handles you would like to use have deep edges on them that would touch the escutcheons. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 17:19
|
|
|
So the splines are probably fine? This morning when I was tightening the collar (right term?), I noticed that it was a little cockeyed on the stem; I figured the splines and collar weren't working well together, and like I mentioned, the splines seem pretty worn down. However, you seem to be implying that I don't need to replace my stems, which would be great, since that seems like a pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 17:37
|
|
|
hooah posted:So the splines are probably fine? This morning when I was tightening the collar (right term?), I noticed that it was a little cockeyed on the stem; I figured the splines and collar weren't working well together, and like I mentioned, the splines seem pretty worn down. However, you seem to be implying that I don't need to replace my stems, which would be great, since that seems like a pain in the rear end. Yes that's a "collar". They're used with 2 part handles, which aren't very common. As for the splines, they usually aren't very sharp. Unless you see damage serious from that set screw in the collar, you should be OK. How about a picture? Another thing you could do is take the stem out and with you to the store, then see how well handles fit it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 18:05
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Yes that's a "collar". They're used with 2 part handles, which aren't very common. As for the splines, they usually aren't very sharp. Unless you see damage serious from that set screw in the collar, you should be OK. How about a picture? Another thing you could do is take the stem out and with you to the store, then see how well handles fit it. Ok, here's a little imgur album. The first picture has the collar on, the second off. hooah fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 19:08
|
|
|
Yeah that's pretty beat up. It looks like someone did put a universal handle on there. Those things destroy the splines. You will have to replace the stems if you want new handles to fit properly.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 19:17
|
|
|
Yeah, at least in that handle, that was me, since the old one broke, and I guess I didn't know any better. How much of an undertaking will replacing the stem(s) be? Something a relative newbie might be able to handle in an afternoon?
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 19:26
|
|
|
It depends on your local hardware store's stock, but it's possible. 1. Turn off the water and relieve the pressure. 2. Remove the handle, collar and escutcheon. 3. Unscrew the packing nut. 4. Just set the collar and handle back on the stem. Use them to unscrew the stem out of the wall. Most big box stores carry Danco parts. Use the book at the store display to match up your existing stem. There's a ruler thing next to the display. Measure your stem on that, then turn to the section of the book for that length and try to match your stem to the pictures. That will give you a part number that hopefully they will have in stock in that display. They also got male and female stem examples next to the book. You can also use those on your stems to try and narrow down a manufacturer, for both new stems and handles. Edit: before you put the new stems in, use a flashlight and look inside the valve. Make sure that the "valve seat" (the ring around the hole in the very back where the rubber washer sits) is nice and clean. Pull out any old, broken off rubber pieces, etc. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Sep 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2015 00:13
|
|
|
Ok, that doesn't sound too bad. A couple more questions: 1) What do you mean by "relieve the pressure"? I've just been turning off the water, then letting me unscrewing the handle drain the residual water. 2) Will I know the packing nut when I see it? I tried a brief Google, but nothing was very visually-oriented, and it sounds like there's a lot of variation regarding this part.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2015 01:27
|
|
|
hooah posted:Ok, that doesn't sound too bad. A couple more questions: "Relieve the pressure" just means open the hot and cold taps at another fixture so you don't get sprayed in the face when you take apart your shower valves. Your pipes will still hold a small amount of water pressure even after you closed the main valve. Opening the system anywhere will let off this pressure. Typically, you do that at a different fixture than the one you're working on because then you don't say "oh poo poo, I turned on this faucet, but I forgot to put the drain underneath back together first!" It's good habit to build. A packing nut is the nut that seals the side of the valve facing outward. It does that by squeezing the packing washer under it against the stem. So yeah, it will be a big nut surrounding the stem. For fixtures with escutcheons, the nipple will typically screw into the packing washer. Edit: sometimes the "packing nut" is called the "bonnet". kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Sep 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2015 02:39
|
|
|
I've got a dehumidifier running that I'm sick of emptying out. There is a drain in the back. My genius plan is to run a tube from the dehumidifier into the existing little giant pump on the floor that my furnace condensate drains to. The pump then runs up through the ceiling to a utility sink to drain in the next room. My question is if there is a clever way to route the tubing from the dehumidifier so that in the event of pump failure the dehumidifier will drain into its tank and the float will cut it off rather than leaking out all over my basement floor until I discover it. The furnace drains into the side of a PVC tee that is open on top and drains to the pump on bottom. The pump also has a few more inlets I could use.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2015 19:16
|
|
|
I wired my dehumidifier into the float switch on the condensate pump so that the dehumidifier would shut off if the pump filled up. The next problem I had was biofilm blocking the drain tray in the dehumidifier and causing overflow, which I addressed with biocide tablets. So far so good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2015 19:56
|
|
|
I have a leak caused by what appears to be a loose compression fitting. Got home yesterday and there had been a puddle on the floor that got traced back to the disposal under the sink. The chome-colored fitting had pulled away from the disposal, so when the sink was running some water was spraying out into the cabinet. I was able to slide it back onto the disposal waste line (brown) but couldn't hand tighten it and I didn't want to break it with a wrench. There didn't seem to be any cement on the fitting or waste line, so I'm guessing it may not have been installed correctly. it's probably tight enough to use the sink until its fixed but I can't run the disposal because the vibration will loosen it. how to I properly fix this? It looks it's a compression fitting on the side connecting to the disposal, and a threaded fitting onto the trap. I've circled where it's pulling away in yellow. I've only worked with copper and know nothing about PVC. I've called a plumber because there are a couple other small items I need fixed (sweat a new outdoor faucet, fix a slow BR sink drain that I haven't been able to fix in 50+ year old cast iron). I wouldn't mind fixing this tomorrow though if it's something simple like a new fitting or adding cement.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2015 17:11
|
|
|
Unscrew that nut and look closely at it all around. Has it cracked? There should be a beveled washer around the disposal elbow under that nut. Check it for cracks too. If either are cracked, replace them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2015 19:41
|
|
|
Is this a good thread to ask about under-sink reverse osmosis water systems? I want to buy one and install it. I've wanted one for years, because I need to use chemical-free water for my frogs - I've been buying gallon jugs of distilled water at 99c a gallon for years and that's just wasteful and stupid. Now I'm more motivated to finally do it because, probably in response to the drought (I'm in California), our water is being heavily treated and it tastes really bad. Like drinking out of a swimming pool, there's a noticeable odor of chlorine. I need a system that will remove chloramine as well as chlorine. Might as well remove whatever else is in there. I'd spend up to like $500, although I'm seeing a lot of systems around the $300 mark that seem fine from an uneducated first-look standpoint. But like... do I need a 5-stage, or 6? or 7? Is there a preferred brand? What would be overkill? My municipal water supply has plenty of pressure and my wife and I use way way less than the water company tells me would be "normal" so I'm not terribly concerned about the wastage rate - we'd use maybe a couple or three gallons a day, just for drinking, ice, cooking, and for the pets.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2015 23:56
|
|
|
Trying to replace my toilet, and not looking to spend an arm and a leg. So obviously it turns out I have a 14" rough in. Google is only revealing $300+ toilets, anyone know of a cheap 14"? I tried btw, a 12" rough in, and made sure to choose a round bowl because of door clearance issues, and it was a no-go. I assumed I would just have a gap in the back, but the whole thing seems to sit forward enough to be am issue.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2015 15:56
|
|
|
What's wrong with the old toilet?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2015 23:29
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:What's wrong with the old toilet? Just kinda lovely 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2015 02:05
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:Just kinda lovely Old toilet has too much attitude: won't stop taking the piss.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2015 02:07
|
|
|
It's old, old, old. Beat up looking, caked in mineral deposits that no amount of clr or any magic home remedy can cut through, and lacking that little half dollar sized jet at the bottom that makes newer toilets flush better. I know flushing issues can't always be blamed on the toilet, but in this case I think it's warranted blame.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2015 02:51
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Is this a good thread to ask about under-sink reverse osmosis water systems? I had an under-sink RO system in my house when I moved in, and it never really worked right. Between that and the cost of filters, we ended up better off buying the 5 gallon huge jugs and refilling them at a local water and ice place for $1 per 5 gallons. It would probably be nice to have the peace of mind that your froggies are getting water that has been filtered on an industrial scale. I know that doesn't answer your question, but pairing that with a costco water cooler tower thing (that does hot water hot enough for noodle bowls or tea), we've been really happy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2015 19:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 04:58 |
|
|
Big jugs of water identified as "drinking water" is actually surprisingly unregulated, and I can't always be confident that it doesn't contain harmful chemicals. Unfortunately, distilled water seems to mostly only be available in one-gallon jugs. If you look at the cost comparison only, though, the one-gallon jugs for a buck each are very cheap. I think I use about a gallon a week for the frogs (and lizards). $50 a year vs. a $300 RO system isn't too bad. But I'd also like the convenience of on-tap water for cooking and drinking. Filters don't seem to cost that much. The systems I'm seeing on Amazon all have packs you can buy that give you like a years' worth of filters for maybe $20ish, which is cheap and convenient. I definitely want to avoid a system that just doesn't work, though, and I don't have any sense of what is a "good brand." I was hoping the plumbing thread would know, but I haven't gotten a response other than yours. Thanks though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2015 02:34
|
|