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PhazonLink posted:We live in a state where they pump the gas.
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Sep 3, 2015 21:48
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There are not one but TWO 1990 VW Corrados on my local CL, both with the G60. I need a pile of money.
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Sep 3, 2015 22:15
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MK7 GTI guys - Recommended tune? Is it worth going with an aftermarket downpipe at the same time? How do they handle warranty with a tune + dp?
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 01:58
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BlackMK4 posted:MK7 GTI guys - Recommended tune? Is it worth going with an aftermarket downpipe at the same time? How do they handle warranty with a tune + dp? I'm just a MKV 2.0T guy, but initially I was Stage 1 a couple years ago, then more recently went stage 2. The one discernible difference I found was its got more mid-high end torque. Highway driving is much nicer with stage 2 I've found, it just pulls so effortlessly. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure there's not really any reason going stage 2 unless you do have an aftermarket downpipe.
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Sep 4, 2015 04:47
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What's a reasonable price for brakes on a 2010 GTI? At 50k should it be pads or pads + rotors?
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Sep 4, 2015 13:52
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I have a 08 MK V GTI with the passenger side dipped beam (HID) out. Apparently the wires in the harness are pretty much gone and the dealer said a) I need a whole new harness+bulb. and b) OEM so expensive I should explore aftermarket and do it myself. My question is, can anyone recommend me a nice pair?
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Sep 5, 2015 00:01
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BlackMK4 posted:MK7 GTI guys - Recommended tune? Is it worth going with an aftermarket downpipe at the same time? How do they handle warranty with a tune + dp? As an owner of an MK7 R, who paid for the 7 warranty, 292 hp is going to be more than enough for me until the warranty is out 
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Sep 5, 2015 00:07
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veedubfreak posted:As an owner of an MK7 R, who paid for the 7 warranty, 292 hp is going to be more than enough for me until the warranty is out How do you like the 4MOTION system? Can you tell it's FWD and only kicks in the rear wheels when necessary? I want my next car to be RWD again but my wife is pushing for FWD but readily agreed on AWD, and she wants something sporty as poo poo so the R is looking like the front contender!
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Sep 5, 2015 00:24
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BlackMK4 posted:MK7 GTI guys - Recommended tune? Is it worth going with an aftermarket downpipe at the same time? How do they handle warranty with a tune + dp? APR has always been the go-to, but I think they've had some problems recently? I was looking into their TDI tune since I couldn't get the Malone tune done without the car being down while the ECU was out and shipped to get swapped, and there were a lot of negative reports on it.
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Sep 5, 2015 02:13
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Trying to buy a reliable car for my best friend's daughter, who just started college. 2001 Passat, 140k miles, $3900 in northwest Atlanta. I think it's priced high, and judging by the mechanical failure/terrible car stuff threads, this car would be very hard to work on ourselves. What do you guys think?
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Sep 5, 2015 02:32
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two_beer_bishes posted:How do you like the 4MOTION system? Can you tell it's FWD and only kicks in the rear wheels when necessary? I want my next car to be RWD again but my wife is pushing for FWD but readily agreed on AWD, and she wants something sporty as poo poo so the R is looking like the front contender! I have an MK6 R and I feel the awd all the time. I also get 17mpg combined so that might be a contributing factor what with how hard I push it daily driving. You push it, it hunkers down and carves around. Disable the nannies and you can slide all over.
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Sep 5, 2015 02:48
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WAR CRIME SYNDICAT posted:Trying to buy a reliable car for my best friend's daughter, who just started college. 2001 Passat, 140k miles, $3900 in northwest Atlanta. I think it's priced high, and judging by the mechanical failure/terrible car stuff threads, this car would be very hard to work on ourselves. Which engine? Of course most VWs of that vintage are in the run-the-hell-away category.
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Sep 5, 2015 03:02
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WAR CRIME SYNDICAT posted:Trying to buy a reliable car for my best friend's daughter, who just started college. 2001 Passat, 140k miles, $3900 in northwest Atlanta. I think it's priced high, and judging by the mechanical failure/terrible car stuff threads, this car would be very hard to work on ourselves. No. Just no. It might be an edge case but I ran into a guy that runs a same generation Audi a4 that changes control arms every 50,000 km. I also had one and they only lasted 115000 km. Plus regular Audi/Vw things. Potential sludge issues. Electrical poo poo. Etc.
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Sep 5, 2015 03:05
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Yeah, don't buy that. Get a Civic or Corolla or Hyundai. Something cheap and disposable and that can handle getting the poo poo kicked out of it at college.
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Sep 5, 2015 03:06
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WAR CRIME SYNDICAT posted:Trying to buy a reliable car for my best friend's daughter, who just started college. 2001 Passat, 140k miles, $3900 in northwest Atlanta. I think it's priced high, and judging by the mechanical failure/terrible car stuff threads, this car would be very hard to work on ourselves. You're really better off buying her a cheap 2nd gen Focus hatchback. They're little cockroaches
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Sep 5, 2015 03:08
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smax posted:Which engine? 4 cylinder turbo. And yeah, that's what I was thinking. It's up to her parents, and they usually listen to me.
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Sep 5, 2015 03:13
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KakerMix posted:I have an MK6 R and I feel the awd all the time. I also get 17mpg combined so that might be a contributing factor what with how hard I push it daily driving. The haldex-5 which is what mine has is nearly invisible. If you're paying attention you can some times feel it disengage the rear for fuel savings, but when you need the power, it's all there. I run either in comfort mode, or individual which is comfort mode with sport engaged. Running full race mode will make your kidneys bleed, and I really don't like how heavy the steering gets. What was I talking about? Oh ya, the awd.. Haldex 5 is there when you want it and takes a smoke break when you don't need it. Also, it takes roughly a 6000 rpm launch with the manual to not lag out on the launch. Keep the car at 3500+ rpms and it is a rocket. Lose boost, and just find the next Denny's to drown your shame in.
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Sep 5, 2015 03:52
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veedubfreak posted:As an owner of an MK7 R, who paid for the 7 warranty, 292 hp is going to be more than enough for me until the warranty is out I want more. I guess it is time for me to research as I don't really care to destroy my warranty with <500mi on the car.
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Sep 5, 2015 05:09
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WAR CRIME SYNDICAT posted:Trying to buy a reliable car for my best friend's daughter, who just started college. 2001 Passat, 140k miles, $3900 in northwest Atlanta. I think it's priced high, and judging by the mechanical failure/terrible car stuff threads, this car would be very hard to work on ourselves. My dad has a 1999 Passat with 230k miles that's been bulletproof and only now does he need to get rid of it. That being said, that sounds like a terrible idea.
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Sep 5, 2015 05:26
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Anyone happen to have any 16v parts laying around? Really need the lower half of a loving airbox. And an alternator/ps bracket, cause some chuckle gently caress snapped a bolt off in the one I have.
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Sep 5, 2015 05:35
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veedubfreak posted:The haldex-5 which is what mine has is nearly invisible. If you're paying attention you can some times feel it disengage the rear for fuel savings, but when you need the power, it's all there. I run either in comfort mode, or individual which is comfort mode with sport engaged. Running full race mode will make your kidneys bleed, and I really don't like how heavy the steering gets. What was I talking about? Oh ya, the awd.. Haldex 5 is there when you want it and takes a smoke break when you don't need it. Also, it takes roughly a 6000 rpm launch with the manual to not lag out on the launch. Keep the car at 3500+ rpms and it is a rocket. Lose boost, and just find the next Denny's to drown your shame in. Thanks, just what a wanted to hear! I sent this to my wife and she responded with "I want a rocket!" so that settles it!
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Sep 5, 2015 06:56
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WAR CRIME SYNDICAT posted:4 cylinder turbo. Yeeeep. Run away, especially from the 1.8T.
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Sep 5, 2015 13:17
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Crossposting from the Stupid Questions thread: My 07 GTI's keyfob randomly stopped working yesterday. I replaced the battery, but it's still not doing anything when I press the buttons. The LED flashes when I hit the buttons, so it seems like it's transmitting. What should I check next? Halp! It's apparently "the old style" according to this DIY video. https://youtu.be/EiK-_w8yBvw Unfortunately, I don't have a second one that I can use/test with.
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Sep 9, 2015 00:50
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My 2016 GTI has a sticker on the window that says first service at 200mi - I called another dealer and they said that the first service isn't due until 10k. Should I just change the oil now or leave it alone until 10k?
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Sep 9, 2015 02:01
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BlackMK4 posted:My 2016 GTI has a sticker on the window that says first service at 200mi - I called another dealer and they said that the first service isn't due until 10k. Should I just change the oil now or leave it alone until 10k? My first service (2013 R) said it was at 10k and I took it in at 10k and everything was fine. Had my second service at 20k and everything was fine then, now I'm at just under 25k and everything is still fine on track the next service at 30k. This is in accordance with the manual.
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Sep 9, 2015 02:40
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Uthor posted:Crossposting from the Stupid Questions thread: Might have to re-sync it up with the car, see if there's anything about that in the manual. It's rolling-code based, so you'll lose whatever seed you had stored in your fob when you pull the battery out of it. It should (or could) automatically happen with the LF Immobilizer interface during normal operation, but might be different in this case.
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Sep 9, 2015 04:31
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2008 GTI. A/C wasn't blowing cold at idle, and took a while to get cold while moving. Took it to a local indy shop. Apparently both the cooling fans aren't working (I'm just thankful that the compressor doesn't seem to be bad). Got quoted 700-800 for that and an oil change. In addition, he said that the "turbo control valve" is bad. I asked him if he meant the PCV valve, and he said no. What exactly is this? He quoted me another 400 for it, including labor. I'm planning on selling the car, so my inclination is to get the cooling fans replaced and skip the "turbo valve". The car seems to drive fine.
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Sep 9, 2015 04:43
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Diverter valve? I know they are common points of failure. Looks like OEM are ~$130, 3rd party under $100, and common Forge replacement around $250 (I think the updated OEM valves solved whatever issues were with the early designs, but don't quote me on this).
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Sep 9, 2015 04:47
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movax posted:Might have to re-sync it up with the car, see if there's anything about that in the manual. It's rolling-code based, so you'll lose whatever seed you had stored in your fob when you pull the battery out of it. It should (or could) automatically happen with the LF Immobilizer interface during normal operation, but might be different in this case. I'm no longer certain that the old battery was dead... Tried the sync process in the manual and another process found on the Internet. No luck. I'm bringing the car to a mechanic tomorrow, so I'll have them take a look while it's there.
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Sep 9, 2015 18:54
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Uthor posted:I'm bringing the car to a mechanic tomorrow, so I'll have them take a look while it's there. The mechanic said that the transmitter in the key fob isn't working. I asked how much a new key is and he said around $250. Which made me wonder: the key itself is fine, just the buttons on the remote don't work. Would I be able to buy this for $76, transfer the key half over, and pair it to my car myself? http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/ES310872/ It's a hell of a lot better than paying 3x as much!
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Sep 11, 2015 23:29
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Depends. With newer Audis you need to get the dealer to pair the keys with the car. I imagine VWs are similar.
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Sep 12, 2015 06:17
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So I bought a 2010 GTI from a dealer back in March and noticed a couple of things I wanted to ask about before going to the dealer. When making turns sometimes I notice a knock coming from under the floor of the driver side. Could it be a strut bolt or bushing? I also noticed when accelerating I hear a noise almost like a backfire coming from the driver side exhaust. Is that normal? Forgive me if this is a stupid question but this is my first car with a turbo.
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Sep 12, 2015 07:12
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Oy. So about a month ago I went through a bullshit ordeal with my driver side headlight being busted. Turns out it was the bulb, ballast controller and the headlight controller that was busted. Set me back about 1k with parts and labor. Now today my passenger side headlight is acting weird. Sometimes the indicator light turns on and it says the "front right dip beam not working". Sometimes the light will be pink/red. Sometimes it's totally normal. Is it safe to assume that it's the bulb on my passenger side is busted? I'm praying its not the ballast or anything else... Edit: It's the DRL if that helps. Uthor posted:The mechanic said that the transmitter in the key fob isn't working. I asked how much a new key is and he said around $250. Apparently, there are some things that only the dealer will have the codes for. As I posted above, I had to go to a dealer because the codes for the controller unit was only possible through Volkswagen. I would give them a call and ask. obi_ant fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Sep 12, 2015 |
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Sep 12, 2015 07:39
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Mr. Apollo posted:Depends. With newer Audis you need to get the dealer to pair the keys with the car. I imagine VWs are similar. obi_ant posted:Apparently, there are some things that only the dealer will have the codes for. As I posted above, I had to go to a dealer because the codes for the controller unit was only possible through Volkswagen. I would give them a call and ask. Well, the key separates from the buttons and works fine all on its own. And the manual has a procedure on how to get the buttons to work if they get out of sync from the car. I'm just sure if that's enough to tell the car "hey, these buttons are A-OK."
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Sep 12, 2015 14:01
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Uthor posted:Well, the key separates from the buttons and works fine all on its own. And the manual has a procedure on how to get the buttons to work if they get out of sync from the car. I'm just sure if that's enough to tell the car "hey, these buttons are A-OK."
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Sep 12, 2015 16:02
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Anyone got a good source for b5 rs4 interior bits? 820 whp wagon needs more than stock s4 seats IMO, and I'm having a hell of a time finding the proposer recaros in the states.
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Sep 14, 2015 19:44
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Stentorian Hoot posted:So I bought a 2010 GTI from a dealer back in March and noticed a couple of things I wanted to ask about before going to the dealer. Backfire is not normal. Clunking while turning could be the strut assembly with some play in it. My old Jetta did this around 100k miles in. Could also be the subframe bolts not being fully tight. Either way if it's covered make them fix it.
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Sep 14, 2015 21:19
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Got a call from my mom saying her car, 2013 jetta, wouldn't go over 3000 rpms. She took it to the dealer and they said that the engine speed sensor needs to be replaced for $370. I thought this number was high so I looked up the part. This part seems to be within the transmission housing, which I would assume then means it is covered under the powertrain warranty. Is my assumption incorrect? Has anyone encountered this?
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Sep 15, 2015 16:53
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After more misfires and discovering that all 4 of my plugs look like this: I'm rebuilding the whole engine. Never done this before, but I'm looking forward to taking the bus to and from work for a month or two! Reason I'm posting here is to ask whether anyone's done any "while I'm at it" upgrades to the VW 2.0L 8v AVH. The engine is pretty limited, I realize that, but just SOME kind of power gains would be nice. Turbocharging it is out of the question, since at that point I'd be better off doing a 1.8T swap. There's a strong possibility that the cat will have to be replaced, too. The CEL has been on for about a year now and it's the post-cat O2 sensor operating below threshold. With all the oil making its way to the cylinders, I would be shocked if the cat weren't completely gakked.
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Sep 15, 2015 18:17
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Hey final update/conclusion on my parents Jetta TDI problems. Insurance is paying for it and the dealership should be done fixing the car this week. One last question. So will the car be fine in the future? One of the salesman at the dealer tried some song and dance about how they should trade in because this problem would lead to problems later on. Seems like standard salesperson crap.
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Sep 16, 2015 19:14
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