|
OSU_Matthew posted:I've decided that I need an electric impact wrench in my life. I'm sick of putting things off because I have to dick around with stretching air hose and charging the compressor. Smaller, more maneuverable one, if you hit something you can't break loose you can always fire up the air. Edit: that's from experience where my big badass impact sometimes doesn't fit and I just want something to zip a few nuts on. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Sep 19, 2015 |
#
?
Sep 19, 2015 07:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 17:16 |
|
|
EightBit posted:Wires don't have to be under tension to transmit vibration, the copper will take care of that. What do you have going on in your car that there is so much vibration that soldered joints are cracking on slack stranded wire? I understand why NASA doesn't use solder, but I don't need to visually verify the integrity of my stereo wiring before I leave every morning and I've never been in a car that generates as much vibration as a pair of SRBs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2015 20:08
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:What do you have going on in your car that there is so much vibration that soldered joints are cracking on slack stranded wire? Got Bass? Obvisoulsy not 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2015 20:19
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Smaller, more maneuverable one, if you hit something you can't break loose you can always fire up the air. Thanks! That's a really great point. I'd rather have something that'd be able to navigate around inside the wheel well, since midwest rust is one of the strongest bonds known to man. I wouldn't be surprised if NASA even used it to build part the space shuttle. Now that I've an impact wrench, are Harbor Freight torque sticks any good? Or should I be looking elsewhere?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 04:27
|
|
|
If it's just for your car, get a single Snap-On torque stick for the correct range for your car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 05:15
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Thanks! That's a really great point. I'd rather have something that'd be able to navigate around inside the wheel well, since midwest rust is one of the strongest bonds known to man. I wouldn't be surprised if NASA even used it to build part the space shuttle. If your paranoid enough about over torquing your lug nuts, spend the 30 bucks and get a decent torque stick. Or better yet, a torque wrench.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 06:13
|
|
|
EKDS5k posted:I decided I needed a service cart at work, but the affordable ones are garbage, and the good ones are too pricey. Fortunately for me, when we get scaffolding that is bent in one spot it is no longer usable even though the rest of it is perfectly fine, so I decided to combine that with some of the leftover stock plate steel we have just sitting around collecting rust. What PC are you at? I'm at PC179 myself. General tool, small tool mechanic here, why doesn't your shop have a chopsaw? We have one we use mainly for cutting hydraulic line. What we don't have is hardly any scaffolding and no steel stock like plate
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 06:53
|
|
|
ajcz posted:What PC are you at? I'm at PC179 myself. General tool, small tool mechanic here, why doesn't your shop have a chopsaw? We have one we use mainly for cutting hydraulic line. What we don't have is hardly any scaffolding and no steel stock like plate PC838, aka the largest shop in the country, although I need to qualify that. The country is Canada, and we've only been operating out of this shop for 5 months. We don't have a chop saw because the company we were before was too cheap to buy things that weren't absolutely vitally necessary. All of our stock plate is leftovers from various other projects. Other things we don't have include: -1" impact gun -functioning press -wash bay -service manager -ticketed HD mechanics in the shop (I'm an apprentice, my coworkers include a former automotive tech, and a former aviation tech. Only the current branch manager has a ticket) -employee handbook applicable to Canadian law A lot of that stuff is in the pipeline, we're still getting up and running. In the meantime we do have a badass 55cfm compressor and 5 ton overhead crane to play around with.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 07:45
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Now that I've an impact wrench, are They are consistent, but I wouldn't consider them accurate. I'd need a dial-style to see where it ends up at but the lowest stick in the lot, even when I turn my gun all the way down, can still overtorque a bit. It works perfectly on my Jeep since where it ends up still leaves me another 10-20 ftlb to gain with an actual torque wrench, but it makes it less useful for the lower torque spec on my CR-V.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 08:05
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:Actually aren't the best connectors the ones that crimp and have a low temperature solder that you melt with a heat gun? They usually have glue in them too so the crimp & glue makes it watertight and the solder guarantees a solid connection. These guys: http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-S...CFUZafgodj7oAPg Those are super expensive, nobody can afford to use those on a regular basis. My dad has been doing car wiring for decades using the old fashioned standard crimps, and there's never been an issue.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 09:43
|
|
|
I'm looking for a sprayer to use with Kerosene to clean the chain on my motorcycle. Is there a paint sprayer from HF that would work? I figure for ten bucks, something that doesn't need pumped and is solvent friendly probably makes more sense than a spray bottle. Mostly I'm concerned with finding something that sprays a decent volume in a circle pattern rather than a line. Will any of the HF paint guns work?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 15:04
|
|
|
revmoo posted:I'm looking for a sprayer to use with Kerosene to clean the chain on my motorcycle. Is there a paint sprayer from HF that would work? I figure for ten bucks, something that doesn't need pumped and is solvent friendly probably makes more sense than a spray bottle. Mostly I'm concerned with finding something that sprays a decent volume in a circle pattern rather than a line. Will any of the HF paint guns work? I have been using the smallest ace hardware pesticide sprayer for stuff like this for awhile now. You do have to pump it but 20 or so pumps gets a good amount of spray time. Mine hasn't melted yet and it's had various combinations of diesel, acetone, and transmission fluid sprayed out of it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 15:25
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:I had the pressure bleeder out of the box and pushed a quart of fluid through the system in under an hour. Not bad I say. I finally got around to using mine and had so many problems. The bleeder mostly worked, but it leaked at the connection to the reservoir cap and where the two hoses join in the middle. I also wasn't sure where to place the bottle or hang the hose. There was air in the hose and I was trying to keep it elevated so it wouldn't get pushed down. I had problems getting the rear passenger valve open until I took a socket to it, which meant fluid leaked until I got a hose on it. Then, it took significantly more turns to tighten it than it did to loosen it.  The other rear was also a bit of a pain to get to. The fronts were super accessible and clean and worked like a charm. Hopefully next time will be better as I get the kinks out of my system.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 15:42
|
|
|
rally posted:I have been using the smallest ace hardware pesticide sprayer for stuff like this for awhile now. You do have to pump it but 20 or so pumps gets a good amount of spray time. Mine hasn't melted yet and it's had various combinations of diesel, acetone, and transmission fluid sprayed out of it. Good idea. I ended up needing to go to HF so I grabbed the touch up spray paint gun. It does in fact work, but it's not any easier or cleaner than simply using a sprayer bottle. It makes quite the mess so you have to mask off the rest of the bike. Also it has too much air:fluid ratio and even with the adjustments you can't fix it enough. So, it works, it's just not worth bothering with.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 16:47
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:What do you have going on in your car that there is so much vibration that soldered joints are cracking on slack stranded wire? You don't need much vibration to weaken a solder joint over thousands of miles. The slack wire is part of the problem. Soldered joints in the ECU/radio/etc. don't crack easily because they are usually a bit insulated and because they can't move much. That slack wire moves around more, which speeds up the solder failure.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 17:26
|
|
|
Uthor posted:I finally got around to using mine and had so many problems. The bleeder mostly worked, but it leaked at the connection to the reservoir cap and where the two hoses join in the middle. I also wasn't sure where to place the bottle or hang the hose. There was air in the hose and I was trying to keep it elevated so it wouldn't get pushed down. Don't worry about air in the hose, the flow isn't fast enough to push it through the cylinder, the brake fluid always sinks. When I pulled the plate from my master it was as full as anyone would ever want. You can use Teflon tape at the intermediate connection, no idea why it leaked at the master. I should have mentioned mine leaked a bit too, I rested that part on the lid to the master cylinder. I have a giant engine bay so I just stuffed the pump wherever, always vertical obviously. The rest I would attribute to it being neglected and will be better next time. I think the best part of having this is that I won't have to put off work requiring a bleed again since I can just add 45 minutes to my time estimate for that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 17:34
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:You can use Teflon tape at the intermediate connection, no idea why it leaked at the master. I should have mentioned mine leaked a bit too, I rested that part on the lid to the master cylinder. It seemed like the clamps on the hose weren't tight. I might replace them with worm clamps. And I saw a mod to replace the intermediate connection with a quick disconnect so it could rotate, which I may also do.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 19:00
|
|
|
EightBit posted:You don't need much vibration to weaken a solder joint over thousands of miles. The slack wire is part of the problem. Soldered joints in the ECU/radio/etc. don't crack easily because they are usually a bit insulated and because they can't move much. That slack wire moves around more, which speeds up the solder failure. I mean that you would need a lot of vibration just to get any to the joint in the first place. Rope, chain, wire etc don't transfer vibration very well unless they are tight.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 19:36
|
|
|
Copper in the cables is solid enough to transmit vibration without tension.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 19:48
|
|
|
Uthor posted:It seemed like the clamps on the hose weren't tight. I might replace them with worm clamps. And I saw a mod to replace the intermediate connection with a quick disconnect so it could rotate, which I may also do. Black label rotates 
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 20:35
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:I mean that you would need a lot of vibration just to get any to the joint in the first place. Rope, chain, wire etc don't transfer vibration very well unless they are tight. Cars are generally designed to hide the NVH from people sitting in the seats, but there's a lot of vibration in the rest of the chassis that you don't feel.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 20:38
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Black label rotates Can I fill my brake lines with this?  I mean, I can, but will I immediately die?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 21:02
|
|
|
Twice as bad as water so......yes?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 21:08
|
|
|
But when you compress it and add some heat it will explode and fuse the brake caliper to the rotor, thus stopping your car. Once.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 21:35
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:But when you compress it and add some heat it will explode and fuse the brake caliper to the rotor, thus stopping your car. Once. See, it's fail-safe. You'll be fine
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 21:47
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Copper in the cables is solid enough to transmit vibration without tension. If the wiring harness I made in high school for the Jeep I still use as a daily driver ten years later ever fails, I'll be sure to post about it. Until then I'll continue to think the anti-solder crowd is making mountains out of molehills.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 22:10
|
|
|
I'm anti-solder because I can't solder for poo poo...
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 22:16
|
|
|
Uthor posted:I'm anti-solder because I can't solder for poo poo... It's really easy. You probably just need a better (and hotter) soldering iron. I like soldering, but i also like crimping. Probably because i have spent a small fortune on special crimping tools. Crimping tools are really loving expensive.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 22:19
|
|
|
Having seen what previous owners have done with the wiring on my Land Rover and have it still work, I'm going to say that whatever you do will likely be fine.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 22:29
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Having seen what previous owners have done with the wiring on my Land Rover and have it still work, I'm going to say that whatever you do will likely be fine. You sure it didn't come from the factory like that?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 22:44
|
|
|
Mooseykins posted:You sure it didn't come from the factory like that?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 22:58
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Surprisingly, someone made it worse. Quite literally twisting bare wires together in areas completely exposed to spray off the wheels and through the grille, that kind of level. People are amazing. I keep finding small things on my van that just make me facepalm. Last one was pulling radio out to change the wiring for the steering wheel controls. A bunch of unused amp wiring just stuffed in the dash, poo poo taped up, etc. Really not looking forward to pulling the ply lining floor to replace it when needed, since i now know the screws were just gunned through the loving floor. I forsee welding in patches. My poor beast. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 23:01
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Quite literally twisting bare wires together in areas completely exposed to spray off the wheels and through the grille, that kind of level. Mooseykins posted:You sure it didn't come from the factory like that?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 23:12
|
|
|
Oh no, twisted wires are too easy to work on. Factory is Lucas bullet connectors for the optimum balance of poor performance, fast degredation, and fiddliness of working on them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2015 23:16
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Twice as bad as water so......yes? So you're saying I should fill my brake lines with mercury, and just deal with the fact that it's a solid on the coldest days of winter.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 00:44
|
|
|
Yes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 01:59
|
|
|
Just stick a block heater in the master cylinder. Mercury conducts heat well, so you don't have to do all the lines. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 02:23
|
|
|
How to amalgamate your master cylinder in one easy step.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 02:30
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:How to amalgamate your master cylinder in one easy step. How to turn your garage into an honest to goodness Superfund site in one easy step... 
sharkytm fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Sep 21, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 11:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 17:16 |
|
|
Mooseykins posted:Crimping tools are really loving expensive. Good crimping tools are really loving expensive. I'm about to rewire my landy. Already done it once but had loads of issues with some of the crimps I did before I had a decent crimper, and I'm changing the dash, fitting an ecu and moving the fuse box so i might as well rewire pretty much everything again. I am happy sticking with crimping with no solder, but they will all be decent crimps done with my proper crimper on decent quality uninsulated terminals and i'm going to put heat shrink tube over every crimp afterwards
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2015 12:38
|
|
