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I'm very interested to see this, as I, too, have an interesting whine coming from that area.
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Sep 19, 2015 21:34
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Naked Bear posted:I'm very interested to see this, as I, too, have an interesting whine coming from that area. Same, I just pretend I have a straight-cut gearbox to make myself feel better 
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Sep 19, 2015 22:11
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Wife just bought a 2005 legacy gt limited and wants to tinker. Suggestions?
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Sep 20, 2015 04:07
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If its anything like my 05 wrx, all your bushings and rubbers are dead or dying.
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Sep 20, 2015 04:12
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Melthir posted:Wife just bought a 2005 legacy gt limited and wants to tinker. Suggestions? Leakdown followed by a conservative dyno tune. Then: All your rubber parts. LCA bushings should be first. Also, your engine mounts are dead. Then: Suspension of some sort Change your oil every 3750mi.
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Sep 20, 2015 08:30
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What he said. I know a cool dude who can get you that stuff.
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Sep 20, 2015 08:37
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Slow is Fast posted:Y'all are high. Ummmmmmm........ I dunno on this one. Dropping the tranny is a lot easier than lifting the engine. A bit of common sense and it's a straightforward and easy job as far as dropping trannys go. The only easier tranny drop was this tranny we picked up out the back of Eastern Creek off a bridge at Kangaroo Vall....... wait I shouldnt have said that
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Sep 20, 2015 08:48
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So I finally got my dyno tune done. Managed about 295hp and 352ftlbs. Im pretty drat happy with the results. Finally dont have anymore stumble and acceleration is super fast and smooth as butter. I wish i did it sooner lol.
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Sep 20, 2015 10:07
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:If its anything like my 05 wrx, all your bushings and rubbers are dead or dying. Does that mean my 08 base auto impreza has 3 years left on the rubbers?
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Sep 20, 2015 11:57
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Shoot, all the suspension parts on my 04 wrx except the struts are original. One more thing to deal with. Is there a strong demand for stock wrx wagons that old? It's stock, save a cobb stg 1. Thinking it might be time to move along to a newer car.
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Sep 20, 2015 13:54
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stevobob posted:My car is better than it was before I started loving with it! yes, pic plz
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Sep 21, 2015 03:23
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Still rocking the original shift bushings from 1998, nearly 2" of play while in gear. I should probably fix that.
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Sep 21, 2015 08:35
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I am pretty sure the tic bushings for the 02-05 will fit but I haven't tried it yet. You do need to drill out the rivet holding the linkage together and replace it with the OEM bolt that holds the later version together but that is pretty easy to do. Getting the linkage off if probably the hardest part.
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Sep 21, 2015 18:35
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I got my WRX! 2014, Plasma blue silica, only 30,000 miles on it. Also, finally a car I fit in. Coming from a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage with a most-burnt clutch, my shifts are all over the place... Are there any suggestions for what RPM to shift at, and any "hey don't do this you will gently caress your clutch if you drive like this" pitfalls?
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Sep 21, 2015 20:04
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OK SO here are some pics and words elucidating my experience changing my 2004 Impreza 2.5ts's center differential bearings, including the reason I took two days off the job and drank a lot. Here's the total list of parts I bought for the job:code:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDShiHP8GHA The CEL is not the subject of discussion! All of the removal/install procedures can be found in these posts at NASIOC by user llamsn, with a shitload of pics, which I used as a guide and I recommend you do too. I did this whole job on ramps in my driveway and I recommend you do not do this. I did not take pictures of the removal of everything like the driveshaft and poo poo because I was cursing too much to operate my camera but he did so here you go: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32390784&postcount=53 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32390791&postcount=54 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32390795&postcount=55 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32390801&postcount=56 THE PROCEDURE Drain the transmission first. If you can't, who cares, it happens anyway later on. Exhaust midpipe: Two 14mm nut and bolt at the front, I was able to reuse the gasket. Two 12mm spring bolts at rear. Both spring bolts broke, of course, and the donut gasket crumbled. You will also need to disconnect both O2 sensors. I also removed the exhaust hanger plate on the side of the transmission case with two 12mm bolts. Driveshaft heat shield: Four 12mm bolts Driveshaft rear cover: Six 14mm bolts, this is the big heavy plate cover thing by the rear diff Driveshaft: Four 12mm nut at rear diff, two 14mm bolt holding up the steady bearing, front slides right out of the transmission when you get the rest off. I jacked one rear corner and spun the wheel to rotate the driveshaft, you with limited slip diffs may have to do raise both rears. Shifter rods: There are two of these, one you remove from the rear of the transmission case with three 12mm bolts. The second is a total whore and you will curse a lot. There is a 12mm bolt holding the rod onto the shifter u-joint, that bolt is in a couple of plastic bushings and was a bastard to remove on mine. You then need to punch out the roll pin (two, actually; a smaller one inside a larger one) and then the u-joint slides off the shaft, allowing you to remove the rear case extension cover. When you pull the driveshaft out of the transmission it will probably start peeing stinky old gear oil onto your face. Case extension cover: Nine (I think) 14mm (I think) bolts. This is the fun part, because I didn't drain my transmission; once you pull the bottom bolts out they will probably start leaking gear oil. Use something like narrow chisels, flat screwdrivers or something you can wedge in between the case extension and case, to break the silicone seal. Try not to mar the mating surface (I hosed it right up but it doesn't leak so whatever). Once you finally break the goddamn silicone seal, the rest of the oil will pour into your mouth and the case extension should come out with the drive gear, differential, and driven gear. At this point I had my roommate drive me over to the base auto hobby club so I could use their hydraulic press. As soon as I pressed the old bearing off the output shaft and compared it to the new one, I was so immediately certain that I had hosed up ordering that I walked away from the job for a couple of days. They were so obviously mismatched, and I totally had my confidence crushed because I done a ton of research about this and confirmed with many posts on many forums, and on Subaru's parts diagrams, that I had got the right bearings. I threw everything back in my bin and called my roommate to come pick me up. Two days later after more halfassed research I decided to actually use my loving head and got out my cheap caliper to measure how far off the bearings actually were. The replacement roller bearing #806322080 (the first one in my parts list, above) is different than the one on the car. This is shown below, with the original on the left, new bearing on the right.  Old outer race outer diameter first. Hmm...    Old inner race diameter first.    Ok so they are the same and I am a big idiot for not doing this sooner. No big deal I'll get my roommate to drive me back to the shop and DO THIS poo poo. Output shaft, with forward roller bearings next to it on the bench: old on top, new on bottom. The roller bearing next to the gear I had to cut off as I had no puller jaws or anything that could fit between it and the gear.  New bearing pressed on with the old one held up for comparison. Jesus.  This is what you see on the case extension after you remove the differential (slides right off the input shaft) and the output shaft (seated in the extension in its bearing race). This picture contains one of the four bearings; the smaller roller bearing, which is hidden beneath the gear in the picture.  Make sure to replace the bearing race in the case with your new one.  Remove the four allen bolts and you can slide the shaft right out.  The bottom end of the input shaft that was just removed in the previous pic.  Remove the snap ring, then press the bearing off. The four ears with the bolt holes and the bearing are all one piece:  On the differential side of the input shaft gear, there is a spacer washer. Mine was stuck to the gear with gear oil, but when I pressed off the bearing it fell off. I did not notice this until later.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQGXDov7ZXc The last bearing to be replaced was on the differential itself, which you can see in the above video. I used a bearing puller to remove it and (VERY CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY) a vise to install it, but I don't have any pics because the shop was going to close and I was rushing. This shows the old output shaft forward roller bearing. This is the only bearing with visible wear on it, and apparently the cause of my whining problem. The pitting is deep and I can feel it easily with my finger, not even my fingernail.  Before reinstalling the case extension and shafts and poo poo, REPLACE THE OUTER BEARING RACE FOR THE OUTPUT SHAFT. It is in the rear of the transmission, still in the car. I used an angled pick to pull it out with barely any force at all. Clean up both mating surfaces with brake clean or something and apply some silicone, install the case extension loosely and snug up the bolts until some silicone squishes out the side. I let it sit for an hour, tightened all the bolts and dumped in some gear oil and it didn't leak, and let it sit 24 hours before driving it. No whine! No problem! I probably left poo poo out so ask questions if you need clarification. stevobob fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 21, 2015 22:19
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stevobob posted:OK SO here are some pics and words elucidating my experience changing my 2004 Impreza 2.5ts's center differential bearings, including the reason I took two days off the job and drank a lot. Here's the total list of parts I bought for the job: gently caress. I think my new-to-me WRX that I just bought has the same problem. I think I'll be posting a video here later today 
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Sep 21, 2015 22:25
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SilentW posted:gently caress. I think my new-to-me WRX that I just bought has the same problem. I think I'll be posting a video here later today I drove for almost 30,000km with it and all it did was get slightly louder. I have a roommate with a car who works at the same place as me so I figured I'd tackle it now. It was really a piece of cake, I can't guarantee a WRX would need the same part numbers for the bearings though. The hardest part was breaking rusty bits free.
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Sep 21, 2015 22:34
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Wow, good work swapping that all. I would just replace the center diff section from one from the spares bin, or replace the center section from a Mémère edition forester/outback, or replace the whole trans with a JY Mémère edition. But yeah I guess just rebearing the thing is the "right way" to do it, vs box out box in oh god make this problem go away.
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Sep 21, 2015 23:39
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So my track car decided that it wants to start leaking coolant this past weekend. I didnt notice it at the event however it left a small spot in my trailer and also has a little collection under it in the garage. I fired it up tonight on stands and its dripping off the front of the oil pan on the drivers side, best i can see around the tstat housing its dry, safe to assume the water pump is leaking? or is the tstat housing evil and likes to deceive you. Top of the motor is still rather oem'ish less the ac compressor, but doesn't look like a fluid leak coming from anywhere up top If it is the water pump, is it possible to reseal it without doing the timing belt, ive got 3 events next month and then the cars done till april so i can do it correctly then
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Sep 22, 2015 01:15
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stevobob posted:I drove for almost 30,000km with it and all it did was get slightly louder. I have a roommate with a car who works at the same place as me so I figured I'd tackle it now. It was really a piece of cake, I can't guarantee a WRX would need the same part numbers for the bearings though. The hardest part was breaking rusty bits free. I'm sure it's not a fatal problem, but I definitely notice the sound, and it's already kind of irritating to me. Maybe it's just the turbo, I've never had a car with one before.
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Sep 22, 2015 01:19
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You have to take the timing belt off to take off the water pump. You could just reinstall the old belt if it looks ok. If you can't see the marks anymore make sure to put on new ones before you take it off unless you want to sit there and count teeth.
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Sep 22, 2015 01:20
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SilentW posted:I'm sure it's not a fatal problem, but I definitely notice the sound, and it's already kind of irritating to me. Maybe it's just the turbo, I've never had a car with one before. That should be pretty easy to determine between: if you're rolling along at speed and hear the whine, and you downshift/upshift to a different RPM but the same wheelspeed and the whine is the same pitch, it's either in or after the transmission. The turbo would change pitch relative to engine RPM, not wheelspeed (I do not own a turbo car so I am not 100% sure on when the turbo spools, but this seems logical to me).
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Sep 22, 2015 01:42
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stevobob posted:That should be pretty easy to determine between: if you're rolling along at speed and hear the whine, and you downshift/upshift to a different RPM but the same wheelspeed and the whine is the same pitch, it's either in or after the transmission. The turbo would change pitch relative to engine RPM, not wheelspeed (I do not own a turbo car so I am not 100% sure on when the turbo spools, but this seems logical to me). The noises coming from the turbo have more to do with load at rpm rather than rpm or vehicle speed themselves, but I didn't hear much out of the turbo with the stock intake except during hard acceleration. Of course, I'm still learning, so I may be wrong.
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Sep 22, 2015 03:01
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Has any one had any encounters with a good engine mount/trans mount? I am thinking beatrush solid mounts but i have no experience with solid mounts. Nvh isnt a problem as i barely put 5k miles on the car in the last couple of years. What about gruppe n?
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Sep 22, 2015 03:50
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Cusco are my favorite. Beatrush is basically a copy of them that uses urethane instead of rubber, so they will probably be worse.
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Sep 22, 2015 04:03
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Shocking, the garage couldn't determine the cause of the blinking cruise control light. I think I'll have to take it to the dealership (ugh) to see if there are any cruise control-specific stored codes. My money is still on a mis-installed or improper wheel hub assembly from when the front left bearings were going. They SAY it looks good, but the timing of the error after I got the work done is too suspicious. If that ends up being the issue I guess I need to find a new garage. drat it.
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Sep 22, 2015 11:12
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One good thing about a PWRC car being upgraded - the old parts are being flicked to the MY06.
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Sep 22, 2015 11:55
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Had my suspension installed yesterday, pics to come. The shop tells me the brake lines and mounts are rusted to poo poo and need to be replaced ASAP. Is it worth while going to coated SS lines since they're being replaced anyway? What's the labor time like on that usually? Also, figured I'd do pads at the same time to freshen things up. What pads do you guys recommend? I see Hawk HPS recommend frequently, but I also hear they're super dusty and tend to squeak. I'd like a low dust, quiet set for spirited DD use with occasional but infrequent track time. Edit: just remembered I think he was referring to the rear hard lines. Not the same thing, I don't think? Seperate parts or the same? martinlutherbling fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 22, 2015 16:28
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martinlutherbling posted:Had my suspension installed yesterday, pics to come. The shop tells me the brake lines and mounts are rusted to poo poo and need to be replaced ASAP. Is it worth while going to coated SS lines since they're being replaced anyway? What's the labor time like on that usually? I loved the brake pedal feel with the SS line. Cost to benefit i would say absolutely
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Sep 22, 2015 16:32
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martinlutherbling posted:Had my suspension installed yesterday, pics to come. The shop tells me the brake lines and mounts are rusted to poo poo and need to be replaced ASAP. Is it worth while going to coated SS lines since they're being replaced anyway? What's the labor time like on that usually? The SS lines are great, especially if you track at all, worth the investment. I can't speak for the labor time because I had a bunch of other stuff done at the same time, but you can feel the difference as well as all of the non-feel related benefits of upgrading. I've been running Hawk HP+ pads and they are noisy, but not incredibly dusty for DD. I was running the HPS pads before that and they were all but silent. Be careful using them on the track though, they'll cook pretty quickly: 
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Sep 22, 2015 17:05
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I really like my stoptech pads.
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Sep 22, 2015 17:41
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New suspension. KYB excel-g struts and Mach v springs, group n top hats.  
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Sep 22, 2015 19:45
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Its weird how the saab got the 08 model style scoop but the hawkeye didnt.
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Sep 22, 2015 20:04
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Test drove a 2012 STI hatch with 71k miles on it on Saturday. Did not have any brake pads to speak of, the engine bay smelled of antifreeze (the dealer said that the power steering pump was bad and that they would replace) and it had a flickering aftermarket dome light inside of it. Engine was spotless and it seemed to run well enough. They want $28k for it. Dunno if I should do it or not. Interior felt kinda cheap, I like the new models' interiors a lot better. Any opinions? Potentially buying as an infinitely more practical replacement for my S2000 now that I have a child. edit: I don't have a ton of interest in buying a car I'm going to have to do a lot of work on. I don't mind doing my own wrenching but I'd rather avoid something that could have any number of catastrophic failures in the next 30k miles.
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Sep 22, 2015 21:05
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There's no world in which the power steering pump would make the engine bay smell like antifreeze. Immaculate engine bay with the smell of coolant means they quick cleaned it to cover something up. The car sounds like a basket case, walk. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 22, 2015 21:12
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Elwood P. Dowd posted:Test drove a 2012 STI hatch with 71k miles on it on Saturday. Did not have any brake pads to speak of, the engine bay smelled of antifreeze (the dealer said that the power steering pump was bad and that they would replace) and it had a flickering aftermarket dome light inside of it. Engine was spotless and it seemed to run well enough. They want $28k for it. Dunno if I should do it or not. Interior felt kinda cheap, I like the new models' interiors a lot better. Any opinions? Potentially buying as an infinitely more practical replacement for my S2000 now that I have a child. Run the gently caress away, that's got motor genade written all over it.
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Sep 22, 2015 22:32
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Yeah that's what I figured when they couldn't find the goddamn thing for 45 minutes and then popped the hood and I smelled the coolant. The early-20s salesman basically lied through his teeth when I tried to explain to him why I wasn't interested and then wrote up an "offer letter" and pressured me to sign it to take back to his sales manager at which point I told him I was not interested and was gonna go get a sandwich. I hate car dealerships.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:37
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Cleaning the engine bay is a huge red flag. Unless you're at a car show, 99.9% of the time it's to try and hide a leak. The smell of coolant is just the sweet icing on the cake.
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Sep 23, 2015 05:19
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One of my friends wrote "horsecock" in yellow marker on one of the intake resonator things years ago and it is still there because I never bothered to clean it off.
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Sep 23, 2015 05:41
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What would make the steering wheel want to judder back and forth ever so slightly when gently applying the brakes on an 08 impreza? I've felt warped rotors before and that felt like the whole car shuddering, this feels... like the car wants to wander all over the place. I test drove an older outback that did the same thing. What do?
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Sep 23, 2015 15:23
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