|
The Locator posted:Should also cross-post this to the figures thread and get more people involved, or that Gunpla or whatever thread (I dunno, never heard of it before the post above this). Already got you covered on the gunpla thread.
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 04:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 05:46 |
|
|
Blue Footed Booby posted:How about here? Price is 680 yen, approx $5.67, and the shipping cost chart says it will cost under $6 USD to ship to Europe, or under $9 if we assume the weights on that table don't include shipping box, bubble wrap, etc. Is there a way to get it to show how much shipping will be before payment?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 04:15
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Is there a way to get it to show how much shipping will be before payment? Should list it in the shopping cart.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 05:47
|
|
|
Yay.. knots are done! Just prior to the final trimming.  Trimmed.  Overall shots.   I sort of mapped out what I have left to do, and I think I will finish (barring unforseen things) in 2-3 more weeks. Then I have an idea for a nice base for the stand to sit on that will probably take a week or two depending on how it goes and if I can find the stuff to do it, but the finish line is in sight!
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 06:00
|
|
|
I forgot to add, the Hi-Mock is one of the quickest snap-fits of any gunpla. I put together one in about 1 afternoon, and I'm not even proficient in gundam models. That just means you'll have the bulk of time to prepare whatever customization you have in mind
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 06:07
|
|
|
The decals on this Typhoon are loving awful. I got decalfix (the ammonia smelling "new" one), followed the video tutorial on the Humbrol site, and they still won't curve around the leading edges properly, one edge or the other would op up free no matter what. The black/white stripes were a loving nightmare too, tearing and just slightly too large for the wings. The last model I built had decals that were fast and easy to use with just water, so I'm assuming this one has an old sheet or is somehow hosed in some way. I guess I'll do the yellow leading-edge by masking and painting once everything's dry, and hope the rest of the decals work a bit better than the underside ones.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 06:51
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:I guess it's been decided, so grab your Hi-Mocks if you plan to get building and we can officially kick off in November. Man, you guys are in for a shock if you're expecting modern Gunpla kits to be craptank-like. Good luck, scale modelling thread! Neddy Seagoon posted:Hi from the Gunpla thread I'll add this for people in the UK: a number of Amazon UK sellers sell Gundpla kits, and almost all of them are shipping-free. Toyshop Japan Hobbyone has the Mock specifically, and also Toyshop Japan Hobbyone make sure you don't get hit by HMRC when ordering from them. Not sure if it comes out to that much less than getting it from HLJ, but it's another option. Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Sep 24, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 08:33
|
|
. If you're looking for somewhere to get Hi-Mocks or Gunpla in-general from,
|
Lemon Curdistan posted:Man, you guys are in for a shock if you're expecting modern Gunpla kits to be craptank-like. Good luck, scale modelling thread! Oh, something to add seeing as you lot will be painting and customizing them; the HGBC Mock Army Set is a pack with four weapons for the Hi-Mock and has a completely-smooth blank grey replacement head. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 09:12
|
|
|
Photoshop idea for the Hi-Mock. Samus Arans Varia Suit: Hulkbuster Armor would be cool too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 09:22
|
|
|
I'm doing NaNoWriMo in November so there's no way I'll be able to do that and the group build. But since I already have a partially assembled Hi-Mock that's been sitting around all summer, I'm gonna just cheat and start now. Since it's football season, I'm just gonna say "gently caress it, Gunpla is freedom" and paint it up in OSU colors. A BuckHi-Mock.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 15:05
|
|
|
I asked about enamel panel line washes a while ago and i have one last question: I use testors dullcoat, applied via airbrush as the last finishing step. Should i put another coat of acrylic gloss over the panel line wash before that or will it be fine with the amount of solvent in the dullcoat? I figure it'll be fine but there's the last sliver of doubt that it'll mix with the dullcoat and form terrible black stains or something, on the other hand i'd like to be lazy and avoid another coat of gloss if it's not necessary.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 20:58
|
|
|
Bistromatic posted:I asked about enamel panel line washes a while ago and i have one last question: I use testors dullcoat, applied via airbrush as the last finishing step. Should i put another coat of acrylic gloss over the panel line wash before that or will it be fine with the amount of solvent in the dullcoat? If you want to be positive, paint a plastic spoon with the same layers and see what happens.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 23:54
|
|
|
Finally done. Used decalfix for the first time and that certainly made it easier, but my god does it reek. managed to bodge one of the white fish hand painted signs, it is on the "to redo" list   
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 14:37
|
|
|
Hobbylinc are having a biggish clearance sale: http://www.hobbylinc.com/plastic-models-clearance-items Some interesting stuff in there. edit: also, can anyone think of a source of little plastic squares about a half inch on a side? I could cut them all out of card but there must be some way of getting a couple of dozen for 10 cents or something, I just can't think what it'd be. Unkempt fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Sep 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 16:04
|
|
|
Do they have to be plastic? There are a ton of MDF ones available. E: Actually, for plastic: http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/individual-sprues-and-bases
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 18:40
|
|
|
Colonial Air Force posted:Do they have to be plastic? There are a ton of MDF ones available. Those'd be perfect but would cost me twice as much for the shipping. I was thinking of something you could get in a hardware store. What're the MDF ones you were thinking of?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 19:10
|
|
|
Unkempt posted:edit: also, can anyone think of a source of little plastic squares about a half inch on a side? I could cut them all out of card but there must be some way of getting a couple of dozen for 10 cents or something, I just can't think what it'd be. Do they HAVE to be square? Because if not you could use an actual cent.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 19:18
|
|
|
My local art supplies store has acrylic rods like these http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/square_acrylic_bar/150 Otherwise you could get wooden rods in a hardware store, if it doesn't HAVE to be plastic.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 19:21
|
|
|
Unkempt posted:Those'd be perfect but would cost me twice as much for the shipping. I was thinking of something you could get in a hardware store. What're the MDF ones you were thinking of? I'm a big fan of Gamecraft Miniatures, but I did a Google search for "MDF bases" and came up with tons of them. So depending on where you need them shipped, check through a few.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 19:31
|
|
|
It's 1pm on a Saturday and I'm drinking rum from the bottle and putting together T-34 tracks. A good day.  Tracks are made by a company called MasterClub, bought from eBay and shipped from Moscow. Pewter (?) links and resin pins. They don't need glue, which is nice, but I broke a good number of pins before I got the hang of it. Fiddly as gently caress, to the surprise of no one. Edit: gonna start saving the wacky stamps from these boxes. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Sep 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2015 18:06
|
|
|
Blue Footed Booby posted:Tracks are made by a company called MasterClub, bought from eBay and shipped from Moscow. Well at least it's authentic 
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2015 22:52
|
|
|
So I know that Vallejo Air seems to be the go to, but is there a good set of theirs to get while starting? Are any of the sets with the cases a good value?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 02:15
|
|
|
Ammo by Mig are also pretty good airbrush-friendly paints. There're so many Vallejo boxsets, get one that suits your needs (german armor, us navy WWII, miniatures, etc..) I wouldn't touch their primers though, since they're polyurethane based and if the mix is wrong they'll peel off if sanded.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 06:16
|
|
|
I haven't had any issues with the Vallejo primer, but yeah, it can have issues if you sand too soon after priming. Too soon being anytime within a week of priming, whereas something like Tamiya you can sand 20 minutes after priming. Apparently the best airbrushable primer you can get right now is Badgers Stynylrez.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 06:24
|
|
|
What do you have to do to sign up for the crap tank build? I live in Japan and there is a hobby shop right down the road that sells almost nothing but Gundam Kits. I haven't built anything plastic in a few years but I still have all my tools and stuff.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 06:45
|
|
|
I'll try it when my supply of mr surfacer runs out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 06:47
|
|
|
Nostalgia4Ass posted:What do you have to do to sign up for the crap tank build? I live in Japan and there is a hobby shop right down the road that sells almost nothing but Gundam Kits. I haven't built anything plastic in a few years but I still have all my tools and stuff. :justbuild: I think November is the agreed month? Off-spec absurd modifications highly recommended.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 08:20
|
|
|
I have some patently absurd modifications planned, if only I can get my hands on one at a reasonable price.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 08:25
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:I have some patently absurd modifications planned, if only I can get my hands on one at a reasonable price. That shouldn't be all that hard, regardless of wherever you might be. The Hi-Mock's one of the, if not the, cheapest HG kits there is. Hell I think a couple of the HG Build Custom packs are more expensive than it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 09:20
|
|
|
everythingWasBees posted:So I know that Vallejo Air seems to be the go to, but is there a good set of theirs to get while starting? Are any of the sets with the cases a good value? I looked into this a couple months ago when ordering from ModelExpo during their 50% off sale. If all you want is the paint, it is cheaper to buy individual bottles than buying the kits. I just wish they had more vibrant and primary colors. Seems like its about 80 shades of gray, green, and brown. I was sorting out my order when I received it and my 5 year old daughter said, "You sure do have a lot of ugly colors." edit: I found the post and it was from thewarstore, not ModelExpo. Looks like the 16 bottle assortments are cheaper per bottle. It is the carry case for the 72 color set that sets the per-bottle price higher than buying individual bottles. SkunkDuster posted:Not sure of your price range, but thewarstore.com has individual Vallejo paints at $3 a bottle. $2.50 per bottle if you get one of the 16 bottle assortments. You can go hog wild and get one of the 72 bottle assortments for $260 which comes out to $3.61 per bottle Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Sep 27, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 15:56
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:I looked into this a couple months ago when ordering from ModelExpo during their 50% off sale. If all you want is the paint, it is cheaper to buy individual bottles than buying the kits. I just wish they had more vibrant and primary colors. Seems like its about 80 shades of gray, green, and brown. I was sorting out my order when I received it and my 5 year old daughter said, "You sure do have a lot of ugly colors." This is perfect, thank you. I'm in a college dorm that forbids spraypainting anywhere on residential grounds but I've heard good things about vallejo for brushing. I guess with the primer suggestions what's the best spray on or even brush on primer.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 16:22
|
|
|
Don't forget to check out their Game Air line for some different colors than the ones offered in their Model Air line.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 16:48
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:I just wish they had more vibrant and primary colors. Seems like its about 80 shades of gray, green, and brown. Yeah the Model Air stuff is mostly WW2 colors, the Game Air range has bright colors that correspond to the Citadel line of paints.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 16:51
|
|
|
Curses. In for craptank 2. Ended up ordering from https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/ as I could get all the addons easily too... Worse, they sell working shinkansen... what have you done to me oh evil craptank.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 18:27
|
|
|
drat but rigging is amazing, yet terrible at the same time. Since the yards, gaff, and boom are actually held in place by the rigging, and I'm making it all functional, I'm learning exactly what each line does on a ship, and it's amazing. Yet at the same time, adjusting one single line to move the spreader yard forward slightly on the port side means I also have to adjust at least three other lines that also affect the tension and adjustment of the spreader yard. It's crazy and I can't even begin to imagine how good the guy in charge of sail trimming on a full ship rigged vessel like the Constitution or Victory had to be in order to get the sails trimmed right in every sort of wind and condition. Adjusting the height of the yards is even worse, as you have to adjust all the lines that work on the fore/aft trim as well as the halyards and lifts, and in the case of the top yard, it holds the blocks for the lifts of the spreader yard, so you have to adjust it at the same time too. The design is so that when the yards have the top-sail set, both yards can be raised and lowered together.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 22:20
|
|
|
Blue Footed Booby posted:It's 1pm on a Saturday and I'm drinking rum from the bottle and putting together T-34 tracks. Looking nice. Do you have to put an individual pin in both sides of each link?  I'm always looking out for good indi-link tracks and I'd never really looked at Master Club. Friuls have, of course, been my go to with Dragon's Magic Tracks taking a close second. I recently picked up a set of Kaizen workable tracks and started piecing them together last night. They're pretty awesome and about a third the cost of Friuls too. I bought 3 different sets of Panzer III/IV tracks for the cost of one Friul set. I'll do a write up later, but I'm about halfway thru my first run and so far I've been very happy with them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 22:56
|
|
|
wtfbacon posted:Looking nice. Do you have to put an individual pin in both sides of each link? Thanks and yes, a pin in each side. Pretty sure some appropriately thin wire would work great (though I suspect that trying to use resin pins that go all the way through would end in tears as I break 70% of the pins trying to get the holes lined up). Gonna keep using the resin pins, since they have tiny bolt heads molded into the ends. I may literally die, but the tank will look bitchin....relative to my normal work. Hijo Del Helmsley was joking, but he's right: I totally picked these because the idea of Russian-made tracks for my T-34 tickled my fancy. I'll have to keep Friul in mind for future tanks, though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 00:19
|
|
|
The Locator posted:drat but rigging is amazing, yet terrible at the same time. Since the yards, gaff, and boom are actually held in place by the rigging, and I'm making it all functional, I'm learning exactly what each line does on a ship, and it's amazing. Yet at the same time, adjusting one single line to move the spreader yard forward slightly on the port side means I also have to adjust at least three other lines that also affect the tension and adjustment of the spreader yard. It's crazy and I can't even begin to imagine how good the guy in charge of sail trimming on a full ship rigged vessel like the Constitution or Victory had to be in order to get the sails trimmed right in every sort of wind and condition. Another tick in the box for Bermuda rig. Though gaff certainly looks a lot better. So when you say functional, do the blocks work, or is it that all the rigging members are doing their jobs rather than just gluing yard arms to masts etc?
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 00:28
|
|
|
Sanguine posted:Another tick in the box for Bermuda rig. Though gaff certainly looks a lot better. All the blocks and sheaves work. I mean that all the parts are actually held in place by the rigging, and it's all functional, in that I can adjust the rigging however I want. I can raise or lower the yards, and adjust the angle of the yards and boom (the Gaff is pinned in place due to the angle for mounting it, but if I cut the pin, it would also be adjustable). If I had sails, the clew lines, in-hauls, and out-hauls would all function to raise and lower the sails. So a big milestone was just reached. All the rigging is now in place! The last big item was the top yard. First thing was to make the parrel that holds it to the top mast. It has one end closed in an eye-splice, and the other end has a pair of eye-splices so that it can be lashed in place after wrapping it around the top mast, and the double rope between is served.   Here is the top yard all rigged up and ready to hang. In addition to the parrel, there are a pair of blocks, the foot-ropes, a brace and lift on each end, and the halyard in the center.  This shows how the parrel holds the yard to the top mast, and the halyard supports the yard vertically. Also a wider shot prior to rigging everything, with just the halyard holding it up.    Jump to the end, I rigged all the lifts (top yard and spreader yard which actually hangs from the two blocks on the top yard), braces, and the flying jib halyard and inhaul.  And what it looks like now. All the rigging is still long at the bottom belaying points so that I can adjust things.   All that's left now is to make the anchors and bouys and rig them to the catheads, clean up all the ropes on the deck after final adjustments, and then make rope coils for all the ropes at their belaying points. Oh, I also need to re-do a few of the swivel cannons before I mount them, and then do overall touch-ups as needed, and make the base for it to sit on. Still a lot of work left to do, but drat it's great to see it looking pretty much done.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 00:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 05:46 |
|
|
Bonus update. I made some anchors.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 04:25
|
|