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Hey so my wife has a 2007 Toyota Yaris. The windshield wipers work in all settings except full blast doesn't do anything. Do you think it's the motor or something else? The dang motor is $100.
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Sep 27, 2015 04:43
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Croatoan posted:Hey so my wife has a 2007 Toyota Yaris. The windshield wipers work in all settings except full blast doesn't do anything. Do you think it's the motor or something else? The dang motor is $100. Much more likely the stalk.
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Sep 27, 2015 05:24
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Slavvy posted:Much more likely the stalk. So this? http://www.carid.com/standard/intermotor-windshield-wiper-switch-mpn-wp-435.html Know of anywhere thats cheaper? I've checked Amazon, Advance, Autozone.
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Sep 27, 2015 05:53
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Croatoan posted:So this? http://www.carid.com/standard/intermotor-windshield-wiper-switch-mpn-wp-435.html
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Sep 27, 2015 05:56
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scuz posted:https://www.rockauto.com has it for $80 before shipping Got a link? It's giving me $97.79
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Sep 27, 2015 05:59
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Croatoan posted:Got a link? It's giving me $97.79 and awaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay we gooooooooooo edit: It's before shipping, and there's one with a core charge there (like a reverse-reverse mail-in rebate) to make it a bit cheaper (maybe).
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Sep 27, 2015 06:07
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Oh ok. That's for the motor but I guess I'm looking for the switch. Thanks anyway man!
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Sep 27, 2015 06:09
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scuz posted:and awaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay we gooooooooooo We were looking for the stalk, not the motor though. I would put good blades and aquapel on your windshield if you don't want to spend all that money right now, although those aren't extremely cheap either (but so so good in rainy weather).
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Sep 27, 2015 06:09
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Eifert Posting posted:
You said "secure the clutch," what do you mean?
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Sep 27, 2015 06:09
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Does anyone have an opinion on the best lubricant for an old-school Bendix screw mechanism on a starter motor? It's not totally jammed, but it has an annoying tendency to just sit there spinning rather than throwing out to engage unless you give it a thump.
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Sep 27, 2015 20:04
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I have a 1990 Toyota Pickup. One of my rear turn signal lights (the left one) has burned out. I have the replacement part, an 1156 bulb. Thing is I can't get the old bulb out of the socket. Is there a trick to these things? I notice the 1156 bulb has little bumps on the sides at the part where it goes into the socket, but it's not like a coaxial cable where you have to turn it to lock it, right? There's no twisting in installing or removing these things? I'm worried that if I manhandle this thing too much the bulb will break and I'll never get it out. Also glass shards in my hand.
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Sep 27, 2015 21:52
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Yes, it's a bayonet fitting. Push it a little and turn it.
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Sep 27, 2015 21:56
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The Sex Cannon posted:I have a 1990 Toyota Pickup. One of my rear turn signal lights (the left one) has burned out. I have the replacement part, an 1156 bulb. Thing is I can't get the old bulb out of the socket. Is there a trick to these things? I notice the 1156 bulb has little bumps on the sides at the part where it goes into the socket, but it's not like a coaxial cable where you have to turn it to lock it, right? There's no twisting in installing or removing these things? Usually you install those bulbs by pushing down and turning to the right about a quarter turn. Try pushing down and turning to the left. I had one get stuck like this, so I broke off the glass part, took a pair of needle nosed pliers and stuck them in the base so that you force the handle out instead of squeezing it in, pushed down and turned it to the left and out it came. Mister Kingdom fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Sep 27, 2015 |
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Sep 27, 2015 21:59
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Thanks, fellas. I'll give it a shot.
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Sep 27, 2015 22:09
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I got me an 01 Honda Civic that's making this noise. Gets louder when I turn left. Goes faster if I speed up, slower if I slow down etc etc. https://vid.me/k2qE Mechanic I took it to thought it was the ball joint, but that wasn't it 
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Sep 27, 2015 23:51
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PaganGoatPants posted:I got me an 01 Honda Civic that's making this noise. Gets louder when I turn left. Goes faster if I speed up, slower if I slow down etc etc. Sounds like a bad cv joint to me
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Sep 28, 2015 01:02
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PaganGoatPants posted:I got me an 01 Honda Civic that's making this noise. Gets louder when I turn left. Goes faster if I speed up, slower if I slow down etc etc. If your comfortable doing it, jack the front wheels up and check for play. Push and pull on the top, bottom and sides of the tire, if there is movement its a bad thing. Also take a minute to look at the CV boots and see if there is a tear.
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Sep 28, 2015 01:26
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rdb posted:If your comfortable doing it, jack the front wheels up and check for play. Push and pull on the top, bottom and sides of the tire, if there is movement its a bad thing. Also take a minute to look at the CV boots and see if there is a tear. Ok I will try that. I just saw a few videos on how to do it on youtube.
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Sep 28, 2015 02:39
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The Ferret King posted:You said "secure the clutch," what do you mean? When I try to secure the stick in second gear it's almost like it's getting spit back out into neutral. the rpm will flare and I usually just throw it into third when I realize what happened.
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Sep 28, 2015 02:56
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Eifert Posting posted:When I try to secure the stick in second gear it's almost like it's getting spit back out into neutral. the rpm will flare and I usually just throw it into third when I realize what happened. If it's only at high rpm, you're getting locked out of gear because you're not depressing the clutch pedal enough. If you're getting locked out even after pressing the clutch lower, you may need to adjust the cmc/pedal link, or have a very badly worn out clutch. IIRC your car was pretty new, so it may just be a technique issue.
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Sep 28, 2015 04:22
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Is there a thread for Uber/Lyft/other driving jobs on the forums anywhere? I looked through AI and the finance/careers forums and didn't see anything. I'm exactly the type of person that could make money with it but I was looking for entrance bonuses or seeing if I could help a goon out with a referral or something before I went through with the initial stuff.
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Sep 28, 2015 05:26
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I'm completely newb when it comes to diesels, and I'm probably opening up a can of worms here. But how are VWs putting out up to 40x more emissions when they're actually, I assume, running leaner? I assume leaner since they get better MPG while not in "fool the EPA" mode, and I always thought diesel engines didn't have a throttle plate (aside from an "oh poo poo it's running away" plate on some engines)... just that they adjusted RPM/power by adjusting the amount of fuel and adjusting the timing? I can see NOx going up if cylinder temps are higher, but it sounds like it's more than just NOx, right? Uthor posted:You're not going fast and you're not driving far in reverse. It's fine to modulate your speed with your clutch. Any extra wear is going to be insignificant in the grand scheme of things. Just don't, you know, floor the accelerator whole backing up and you'll be fine. This. I basically idle in reverse and slip the clutch enough to keep the car reversing at a reasonable speed. Assuming flat ground anyway. Reverse generally has the lowest gearing, so it's easiest to get moving without much throttle. PaintVagrant posted:If it's only at high rpm, you're getting locked out of gear because you're not depressing the clutch pedal enough. Also this, if you're not pressing the clutch completely to the floor (literally against the floor), you're possibly not fully disengaging it.
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Sep 28, 2015 05:34
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some texas redneck posted:I'm completely newb when it comes to diesels, and I'm probably opening up a can of worms here. I believe NOx is the main thing, yes. That's always been the main emissions issue with diesels in the US, hence why most other brands use urea injection; urea reacts inside the catalysts they use, decomposing NOx gases into molecular nitrogen and water vapor. VW was notable for being the only manufacturer to meet regs without it and get good MPG at the same time, now we know how they did it (or rather didn't do it).
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Sep 28, 2015 05:41
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InitialDave posted:Does anyone have an opinion on the best lubricant for an old-school Bendix screw mechanism on a starter motor? It's not totally jammed, but it has an annoying tendency to just sit there spinning rather than throwing out to engage unless you give it a thump. The bendix is not supposed to be lubed at all according to the guys at my local rebuild place. I was told that anything thin enough to do the job just ends up making a mess and getting into the starter to cause problems and anything heavy enough to stay cakes up and makes the situation worse than it was before in short order.
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Sep 28, 2015 15:17
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Motronic posted:The bendix is not supposed to be lubed at all according to the guys at my local rebuild place. I was told that anything thin enough to do the job just ends up making a mess and getting into the starter to cause problems and anything heavy enough to stay cakes up and makes the situation worse than it was before in short order.
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Sep 28, 2015 18:04
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I'm looking to use an add-a-circuit fuse holder, but all I can find are rated for 10A and I kinda need 30A. What do I do?
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Sep 28, 2015 19:34
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Eifert Posting posted:When I try to secure the stick in second gear it's almost like it's getting spit back out into neutral. the rpm will flare and I usually just throw it into third when I realize what happened. This may be a technique issue but I think more information is needed and I'm worried I'm going to do a terrible job of getting it all. Are you shifting up to 2nd from 1st? Or down to 2nd from a higher gear? You're off the accelerator when shifting right?
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Sep 28, 2015 21:24
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Fart Pipe posted:If you really want to take it off you can but the rope trick works swimmingly. Ive done it so many times.
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Sep 28, 2015 21:37
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So I have a Corrado G60 Valve cover on my VW 1.8L 8v, currently attached with M6 studs and nuts. Is there any reason not to go with regular socket head M6 bolts instead?
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Sep 28, 2015 23:49
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scuz posted:Back to this from a few pages ago. Details for this? Do I want braided nylon rope? Soft and flexible or more rigid kinda? I'm stuffing the rope into the spark plug hole, right? Rigid works pretty good. Yea you just stick as much as you can through the spark plug hole and then turn the crankshaft with a wrench until it gets tight up against the valves.
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Sep 29, 2015 00:27
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0toShifty posted:So I have a Corrado G60 Valve cover on my VW 1.8L 8v, currently attached with M6 studs and nuts. I just have the stock valve cover on my 8V and I used regular M6 bolts and its been fine for 9 years so far.
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Sep 29, 2015 00:30
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bolind posted:I'm looking to use an add-a-circuit fuse holder, but all I can find are rated for 10A and I kinda need 30A. What do I do? What are you adding that needs 30A and how are you trying to wire it? That kind of draw I'd probably want to come directly off of the positive terminal to a fuse and a relay.
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Sep 29, 2015 00:50
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0toShifty posted:So I have a Corrado G60 Valve cover on my VW 1.8L 8v, currently attached with M6 studs and nuts. The only time I design something to use studs, it's because there is either a clearance issue or its to aid in assembly (ie, you can hang the part on the studs so you don't have to hold the whole weight while tightening the nuts). If you don't have either of those considerations, then bolts should be fine.
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Sep 29, 2015 01:51
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Just wire 3 identical 10A fuses in parallel. 
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Sep 29, 2015 02:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:What are you adding that needs 30A and how are you trying to wire it? That kind of draw I'd probably want to come directly off of the positive terminal to a fuse and a relay. It's for my eternal powered seat project. The load will be once in a blue moon, but as far as I remember, it draws quite a bit. The 30A is what it's fused for. The factory setup is still fused through the normal fuse panel, so I don't see why it couldn't be done with an add-a-fuse. For reference, these are what I'm using.  They're nominally rated for 10A. The wire is 16AWG, insulation rated to 105°C. I took one apart, in the hopes that I could crimp in a heavier gauge wire, but that looks to be a bit challenging. Enourmo posted:Just wire 3 identical 10A fuses in parallel. I actually briefly considered that  .
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Sep 29, 2015 07:36
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You might be better off installing another small fuse block. There are small ones (5 or so fuses) for about $10. Gives some room for additional projects, too.
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Sep 29, 2015 07:50
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OK, but where would I source the power for that? This is on a BMW so everything takes place about a foot in front of the passenger's right knee, behind the glove box. It's not very accessible, to say the least, but at least it's out of the elements.
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Sep 29, 2015 08:26
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The battery. You'd run a larger gauge cable to the battery to power the block. I've been seeing a lot of projects in Jeeps this year as a lot of people are installing electronic devices like e-lockers, a fuckton of external lighting, CBs, etc. Edit: This is an easy topic to research...I didn't go into details, but it doesn't look like it's much more complicated than what you're trying, but it's probably easier to find the parts and arguably safer.
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Sep 29, 2015 16:19
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The fuse panel should be fairly modular - if you can figure out how to get to the back of it - you should find extra 12v pins on the back meant for accessories. Sometimes they'll add a clip-on fuse holder on the top of the panel for factory accessories. I added power windows (30A) to my Scirocco like that. If your battery is in the trunk - the cable passes by the passenger side area. I have seen in the e30 - it has this area in the front cowl where the rear part of the battery cable comes to a junction where a battery would have been on an earlier model - and you can tap 12v there. I'm not sure that any other BMWs are set up like that though.
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Sep 29, 2015 17:22
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I've been thinking about this for a weekend/fun car: http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/5230507996.html I checked it out on Sunday. Rode it around for about ten miles through all its gears and I checked the lights and turn signals ,the proper latching of the top and listened for any unusual suspension/engine sounds. Tires looked relatively new, the AC blew cold and the car seemed to be in good shape. Is there anything else besides running the VIN through carfax that I should ask/test for before putting in an offer?
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Sep 29, 2015 21:49
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