|
Does she go in a similar spot every time? I've known smaller dogs to get used to using a litter box. If she's anxious outside, she might not be able to chill enough to eliminate and having a litter box inside may make her more at ease.
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 16:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 15:11 |
|
|
Lotophage posted:My neighbors puppy got out so I chased him down and brought him back to my place. He's cute and I'd like to steal him somehow, is there any legal/moral way to do this? dont steal dogs you rear end in a top hat why do you even need to ask that
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 16:31
|
|
|
Eponine posted:Does she go in a similar spot every time? I've known smaller dogs to get used to using a litter box. If she's anxious outside, she might not be able to chill enough to eliminate and having a litter box inside may make her more at ease. No, not partial to any spot at all, except that she runs around the kitchen island to try to poop a lot of the time... But I think that's just because she's trying to hide. I have heard of canine litterboxes and would for sure consider it as a last resort. That said, I'm not sure it would be any easier to train her to use one. She doesn't have anxiety about being outside; she loves to walk around and explore, etc. and pretty consistently goes when we take her out. Only exception is rainy/cold weather... Not looking forward to winter for that reason.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 17:44
|
|
|
Hello fine people, I am hoping you guys can offer me some advice. This is Kora, 6 month old black German shepherd. I just got her four days ago from a family where she wasn't getting along with their cat and young baby. She is mostly pretty great, except she's quite anxious of other dogs and maybe other people to a certain extent. I've walked her lots every day and we went for a hike yesterday and she seemed to like it lots, but last night my brother was taking her out to pee and when he opened the gate to our yard another dog ran in and was harassing her. I don't know exactly what happened and my brother doesn't know what happened, but I guess the dog maybe nipped her a bit because her back flank was all wet, but she freaked out pretty bad. I thought she had gotten hit by a car by the way she was yelping before I went outside to see what happened. Anyway, prior to this when a dog would bark at her she'd try and run and she'd whimper, but if the dog didn't bark she'd seem kind of curious. Now she's afraid to even go outside. This might be because our neighbour has a dog in their yard that barks on occasion. I realize she's still probably getting used to being in a new place, but I am looking for some advice on how to make things easier for her and what to do to try and make her less anxious of other dogs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 18:33
|
|
|
Tsyni posted:Hello fine people, I am hoping you guys can offer me some advice. I'm pretty sure that if another dog comes on to your property and bites your dog that you have legal recourse to make sure that dog is not allowed to roam any more at the very least
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 19:07
|
|
|
EXTREME INSERTION posted:I'm pretty sure that if another dog comes on to your property and bites your dog that you have legal recourse to make sure that dog is not allowed to roam any more at the very least Yeah, obviously that part was very frustrating, but the people walking the dog (without a leash obviously) grabbed their dog and were leaving the yard just as I came outside. It was dark out and I was checking on Kora and they just kind of disappeared so...yeah. Anyway, more interested in making Kora more comfortable and less anxious in situations with other dogs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2015 19:16
|
|
|
Dyna Soar posted:Get your tested allergies Petey. You def. Dont want to take a dog onky to have to give it up a month or teo kater. That would be heartbreaking I've been tested for allergies and know that I am allergic to some dog dander. Seems to depend heavily on breed though; goldens and collies are among the worst in practice, but I do ok with 'hypoallergenic' dogs, or at least have in the past. But yes, I definitely want to avoid exactly that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 00:52
|
|
|
at what age can I take Pax jogging, and how far?
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 02:45
|
|
|
I adopted a rescue dog (originally found in Georgia) and trying to guess at her breed. The original vet who examined her thought she was catahoula (I'm skeptical about this). I'm guessing shes more of a black mouth cur, or if anything - a mix of black mouth cur and catahoula. Any cur experts out there want to venture some guesses?   
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 14:00
|
|
|
catahoulas are super badass dogs and i really wish i could get one at some point. that said it's hard to say whether he is one or not because they're working dogs and have a pretty wide range of physical characteristics. one of the things most catahoulas share though is webbed toes. check her feet. Dyna Soar fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Oct 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 14:04
|
|
|
Dyna Soar posted:catahoulas are super badass dogs and i really wish i could get one at some point. that said it's hard to say whether he is one or not because they're working dogs and have a pretty wide range of physical characteristics. She does have webbed feet, but both catahoulas and black mouth curs are known for that so I'm back to square one.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 15:26
|
|
|
Emulator posted:She does have webbed feet, but both catahoulas and black mouth curs are known for that so I'm back to square one. Mountain cur?
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 15:41
|
|
|
She looks like a mixture of blackmouth & catahouna, hah. I guess you'll just have to wait and see whether she climbs trees or not.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 15:50
|
|
|
I thought mtn curs had the brindling but I may be mis remembering. Curs are great dogs
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 16:13
|
|
|
EXTREME INSERTION posted:I thought mtn curs had the brindling but I may be mis remembering. Curs are great dogs Dyna Soar posted:She looks like a mixture of blackmouth & catahouna, hah. I guess you'll just have to wait and see whether she climbs trees or not. The mentioned cur breeds are all so similar, I'll probably never know for sure. She is certainly a great dog though, super affectionate and intelligent. Quiet most of the time except when she thinks she has to 'protect' or guard my house. I may have to find somewhere to take her where she can run around hunting small furry things with freedom, although I have no clue what I'm supposed to do as her master in those situations.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2015 18:24
|
|
|
Tsyni posted:Hello fine people, I am hoping you guys can offer me some advice. Had a very similar thing myself matey, all I can tell you is that it takes time for them to get their confidence back. Mine was attacked in a park, now he always tries to snap first. Spoke to a dog psychologist and the thing is to retrain their social awareness, approach other dogs, but with you inbetween so he knows that you've got his back, a few treats and lots of verbal encouragment "Who's this", "check this fella out" kind of thing (they pick up on your voice) tell the other owner why your doing it to buy some time, then leave on your terms. It's about getting him to understand that not every other dog is an asshat and that you guys are a team and he's safe 
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 10:12
|
|
|
I've got a problem with a dog I'm house sitting and wondered if anyone could help. She's a 3 year old Staffie cross who was a rescue dog, but my partner's grandparents adopted her. We're house and dog sitting for 3 weeks and the dog is fine in the house, but when out on a walk she is incredibly bad. She will try to attack any dog smaller than her so is normally walked on a lead, with a muzzle, and a gentle leader, however we try to allow her on an extending lead (with no gentle leader) when there aren't other dogs around. The issue with this is that she will take off running with no regard for the limit of the lead, and when she reaches it she'll practically flip over due to it pulling taut. This has also resulted in my partner and her grandfather being pulled over and injured - when I take her out it takes all my strength and attention to stop her injuring herself, other dogs, or me. When she gets near small dogs she will pull really hard, growl, and try to get the muzzle off to get at them. Left to her own devices, we're convinced she'd kill another dog. Does anyone have any advice for how we could exercise her without risking her harming other dogs or us? Neither of us think that they should have this dog, it is much more than they can cope with, however this is the situation we're in for the next couple of weeks now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 20:37
|
|
|
1) Get the rid of the extending lead. Don't let anyone use it at all. It creates terrible habits and (as you've experienced) injuries. If you want to let the dog run, find a fenced in field or dog park and do it. 2) Dogs attack when they're scared and some bigger dogs are scared of little dogs. Having them on lead makes them feel tethered and like they can't defend themselves. If the dog is going after little dogs, muzzle or not, you should be completely avoiding dogs on a walk. I live in a city, in a neighborhood with a lot of dogs and two leash-reactive dogs. We cross the street approximately 15 times per walk. Instead of yanking the dog away, first attempt to avoid the dog and then give them treats when they do a good job. Reward positive behavior, even when you might not realize it is positive. Use really high-value soft treats that the dog likes and don't take time to chew. 3) Is there another avenue for this dog to have positive dog-to-dog interactions? 4) Mental exercise is just as taxing for dogs as physical exercise. If you haven't already (and even if you have), look into first obedience classes and maybe agility or some other dog sports. A lot of it is based on the bond between the owner(s) and the dog. Right now it doesn't seem like the dog has much of an idea who is on the other end of the leash. One of the big things that came with actually working with my dogs was to assert that I, something that they care about listening to, was holding onto the leash and that they can trust me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 21:41
|
|
|
bad-yeti posted:Had a very similar thing myself matey, all I can tell you is that it takes time for them to get their confidence back. Mine was attacked in a park, now he always tries to snap first. Spoke to a dog psychologist and the thing is to retrain their social awareness, approach other dogs, but with you inbetween so he knows that you've got his back, a few treats and lots of verbal encouragment "Who's this", "check this fella out" kind of thing (they pick up on your voice) tell the other owner why your doing it to buy some time, then leave on your terms. It's about getting him to understand that not every other dog is an asshat and that you guys are a team and he's safe One of the best things I did for my pup (who was really, really fearful of other dogs) was getting her in with a really understanding puppy daycare, hilariously enough. They worked with her during play times and introduced her to other pups that were submissive so she got her groove back. Never had her snap at folks though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 23:24
|
|
|
Eponine posted:1) Get the rid of the extending lead. Don't let anyone use it at all. It creates terrible habits and (as you've experienced) injuries. If you want to let the dog run, find a fenced in field or dog park and do it. Why are you suggesting someone take a dog aggressive dog to a dog park? also it's probably attacking other dogs because it's a goddamn staffie and they tend to be dog aggressive, not because it's petrified jfc e: my go to for exercising dogs who can't be let off leash is a flexi and a flirt pole. attach the flexi to a harness so it can't hurt itself and take it somewhere with a bit of open space and have it chase the flirt pole (a toy on a horse lunge whip works super well and is cheap). it's pretty high intensity exercise and wears dogs out a lot quicker than just walking or letting it off leash to stroll. Triangulum fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Oct 7, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2015 23:43
|
|
|
Emulator posted:I adopted a rescue dog (originally found in Georgia) and trying to guess at her breed. The original vet who examined her thought she was catahoula (I'm skeptical about this). I'm guessing shes more of a black mouth cur, or if anything - a mix of black mouth cur and catahoula. Lab, pit, american slightly brindled yellowdog.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 00:14
|
|
|
I cannot get my basset to stop wanting to play after eating. He also has soft and sometimes loose stools. What can I do to keep him from playing? I have tried Kong's and pb, bones and PB bones which have some effect but the tongue is long and he is good at puzzle toys or buries them for later and plays. Will changing food for the stools possibly have an effect on his post meal. Before eating we either go on an hour walk or the dog park for 1-2 on an every other day rotation. I feed him no earlier than 7 but usually later. He does not eat in the morning if I have his leftovers out before I go to work. -e blue buffalo chicken wilderness Submarine Sandpaper fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Oct 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 00:36
|
|
|
Mr. Wookums posted:I cannot get my basset to stop wanting to play after eating. He also has soft and sometimes loose stools. What can I do to keep him from playing? I have tried Kong's and pb, bones and PB bones which have some effect but the tongue is long and he is good at puzzle toys or buries them for later and plays. Will changing food for the stools possibly have an effect on his post meal. Blue Buffalo is known to give dogs the runny shits. Try switching foods to see if it helps. Why do you care so much about your dog playing after dinner? He's been hanging out all day with nothing to do, he probably just wants to burn some energy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 01:16
|
|
|
Mr. Wookums posted:I cannot get my basset to stop wanting to play after eating. He also has soft and sometimes loose stools. What can I do to keep him from playing? I have tried Kong's and pb, bones and PB bones which have some effect but the tongue is long and he is good at puzzle toys or buries them for later and plays. Will changing food for the stools possibly have an effect on his post meal. We were on Natural Balance Large Breed until Hana was about 1 year, mostly due to the moderate protein and magnesium/phosphorate ratios. (Especially important for Great Danes). However her poops were always soft and she had lots of pimples. We changed to Petkind Green Beef Tripe (Dry) formula after 1 year and her poop got solid, pimples mostly clear out and her coat also looks much better. It's a bit pricey, though. http://petkind.com/tdbt-us
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 01:39
|
|
|
I'm sorry if this is a stupid question but I've spent ages researching this and I'm still not sure what the answer is. My husband and I are likely going to be adopting and bringing home a young Australian Shepherd puppy (7 weeks) this weekend. I'm trying to decide what to do with the puppy when we're at work/asleep. I completely understand that crate training is the answer but I'm specifically wondering what to do for the first few nights. I've owned an Aussie previously and she hated her crate with a fiery burning passion. I'm having flashbacks and imagining that nightmare scenario repeating with this new pup. Hopefully we can spend some time at home the first day getting used to the crate so that napping in it is no big deal. However if she needs a little more work to get used to the crate, where should I put her until she and the crate are bros? Should I expect her to fuss when I place her in there at night if she's comfortable with the crate? How much fuss is acceptable and how much means she's flipping her poo poo? Plan B is putting a doggy gate on the bathroom door and putting a bed and some wee-wee pads inside, is this a good plan B? I don't want to traumatize this dog with crating on accident. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 02:18
|
|
|
Eponine posted:1) Get the rid of the extending lead. Don't let anyone use it at all. It creates terrible habits and (as you've experienced) injuries. If you want to let the dog run, find a fenced in field or dog park and do it. Oh for fucks sake Your staffie doesnt like other dogs because its a staffie. It's not scared; it is completely loving natural for a staffie to want to kill other dogs; that's what it's for. Do loving not take a staffie to a dog park. If you can't even walk it without a muzzle, you have so little control over it that you do not need to be scheduling even controlled interactions with other dogs, there is way too much poo poo to deal with and fix here before you can even try that, if ever. This isn't about exercise. Do not take your staffie to agility lessons. I am so sorry about this person's post, staffie owner, and I am about to go to bed but I will explain exactly what's going on and how to start working on it tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 02:37
|
|
|
oh my god i missed the part about taking it to agility haaaaaaaaahahahahahahaha
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 02:39
|
|
|
Triangulum posted:oh my god i missed the part about taking it to agility agility classes will teach the repressed and frustrated staffie that violence is not the path
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 02:46
|
|
|
maybe they should try cheese i hear u can teach a dog to do anything w cheese
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 02:47
|
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:Why do you care so much about your dog playing after dinner? He's been hanging out all day with nothing to do, he probably just wants to burn some energy. /e- also bloat fears Submarine Sandpaper fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Oct 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 14:43
|
|
|
JibbaJabberwocky posted:I'm sorry if this is a stupid question but I've spent ages researching this and I'm still not sure what the answer is. My husband and I are likely going to be adopting and bringing home a young Australian Shepherd puppy (7 weeks) this weekend. I'm trying to decide what to do with the puppy when we're at work/asleep. I completely understand that crate training is the answer but I'm specifically wondering what to do for the first few nights. I've owned an Aussie previously and she hated her crate with a fiery burning passion. I'm having flashbacks and imagining that nightmare scenario repeating with this new pup. Hopefully we can spend some time at home the first day getting used to the crate so that napping in it is no big deal. However if she needs a little more work to get used to the crate, where should I put her until she and the crate are bros? Should I expect her to fuss when I place her in there at night if she's comfortable with the crate? How much fuss is acceptable and how much means she's flipping her poo poo? Plan B is putting a doggy gate on the bathroom door and putting a bed and some wee-wee pads inside, is this a good plan B? I don't want to traumatize this dog with crating on accident. Yeah, expect her to kick up a storm for the first few nights. I set up camp in front of the crate (because I am a softhearted wuss) and stuck my hand in there each time she started fussing. It seemed to work and I was able to move back to bed in a few days without incident. Set your alarm to go off once or twice each night so you can provide bathroom breaks, then back in the crate. The dog may have some trouble settling down again, but don't give in to it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 14:50
|
|
|
11 weeks and growing up fast. 5.9 kg/13 lbs at the moment.   
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2015 20:04
|
|
|
Eponine posted:1) Get the rid of the extending lead. Don't let anyone use it at all. It creates terrible habits and (as you've experienced) injuries. If you want to let the dog run, find a fenced in field or dog park and do it. Haha yea the pit bull that wants to play with small dogs like a chew toy is really just afraid of them. I'd love to know what kind of sales pitch the rescue gave to this poor old elderly couple for them to adopt this dog. Up for adoption, a cute staffie pittie baby who just loves to cuddle and go for walks! *would prefer to be the only dog in the household.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 16:40
|
|
|
adebisi lives posted:
Even the humane society here does this poo poo. You get the "this guy is cute and lovable and cuddly" and then they start to interview you, you mention your current dog, and their eyes go wide like they got caught in the cookie jar. Speaking of murderdogs, Worf's dog park days are done. He hasn't gotten into any fights, but he's can no longer cope with sudden changes in energy level, so he'll be fine and then some louder dogs come in and suddenly he's going off with the jumping and terrifying barking and scaring the poo poo out of the other dogs. Not giving that an opportunity to turn into something worse. We need to double down on his leash training too. The leaves are starting to fall here and on walks all he can do is frantically look from leaf to leaf, pouncing on any one that is ruffled by the breeze. It's cute for about 10 seconds until you get tired of wrangling him. Really can't wait for his first experience with snow. Also, he goes into high alert when people leave poo poo on the curb to be picked up by the garbage truck. He really let an old ironing board know the other day that HE WILL KILL IT. I can see how people get fooled into the "he was so cute and then he just turned one day" thing, because when you're dog is going crazy barking at a broken propane grill or something it's kinda dopey and cute, but in reality it's also a warning that he's aggressive toward things that are unfamiliar and if you let yourself get lulled into an attitude of just "oh, that just my dummy dog" you're gonna get surprised when the thing he goes off on is a toddler. One of the other pitbull owners around here has a "leash" that's really more of a full-body harness with a handle that's just long enough that your dog can walk in heel position and that's it. I'm thinking of getting one, because even with all the treating and positive reinforcement and everything, Worf has a habit of sprinting away all the slack in the leash the moment a leaf flutters somewhere ahead, and even my beefy shoulders can only take so much of that. Also, what's everyone's opinions on those weighted backpacks for your dog to wear on walks? Since we can't take Worf to the dog park to chase the frisbee anymore, we want to make sure walks wear him out sufficiently and I've heard mixed opinions on those things.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 16:52
|
|
|
LeftistMuslimObama posted:Even the humane society here does this poo poo. You get the "this guy is cute and lovable and cuddly" and then they start to interview you, you mention your current dog, and their eyes go wide like they got caught in the cookie jar. I saw a pitbull owner at the park with their dog in a weighted vest, but I'd be curious to hear other people's opinions
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 17:02
|
|
|
they are good for some things sometimes add the weight very slowly so you dont gently caress up its back
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 18:13
|
|
|
My border collie puppy will bark at and attack trashcans with wheels but in a herding kinda way. Fortunately she had no interest in cars or other wheeled objects but she'll go fuckin nuts if you roll a trashcan by her. She does kinda try to attack the vacuum cleaner if it's being used near her but she can be easily distracted away from those at least.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 18:48
|
|
|
I picked up this little guy 2 weeks ago. His name is Stanley and he's a vizsla puppy. He was born on the fourth of July and we went to a breeder to get him. We initially went to put a deposit down on a future pup, take a look at the facility and the dogs that were going home that week. The breeder informed us that one of the male puppies was backed out on by a couple who decided it wasn't a good time for a dog. After a lot of private time with him and talking to the breeder we took him home.  He's already getting most basic commands but he's not taking to crate training very well. We tried with the crate in the living room then moved it into the bedroom. We feed him in the crate and have tried everything from blocking part of it off, offering him rewards for being in the crate etc. But the moment the door closes and he can't be with us he goes insane. I figured he would lose his voice or tire out and go to sleep but nope. We don't respond to his barking or give him any attention when we let him out. I completely understand that this isn't going to be easy but I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or if there is something else to try. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 19:02
|
|
|
Vizlas are awesome!. One of my friends got one a few weeks older than Hana and they're crazy agile. They also never ever get tired and merely just reset, so I hope you have lots of spare time. Did you try covering the crate with a sheet, so that he can't see out?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 19:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 15:11 |
|
|
 
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2015 23:11
|
|
