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BULBASAUR posted:For all the work they put into it, they could have at least drilled the barrels or cleaned those mold lines No, see, you're not thinking like a tyranid. Thos barrels are undrilled in universe. The hive has recognized the visual usefulness of having intimidating features, such as those possessed by necron destroyers or TWAC landspeeders, but, finds it totally unnecessary to replicate their behavior. Instead, they simply grow a carapace fascimile, like a leaf-bug or one of those conch things designed to look like natural predators of their known enemies. The undrilled barrels and mold lines are actually just imperfections in the imitation that aren't important, because, overall, from a distance, the carapace does its job. The real deadly payload is bioplasma and googly-eyed spore mines. Ripper swarms will soon start exposing crests that look like phoenix lords or ork war-bosses.
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Oct 7, 2015 21:31
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JackMann posted:40K space marines will never not look goofy. Frickin' pauldrons, man. Nah, they look weedy without them. Pauldrons are cool.
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Oct 7, 2015 21:35
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The Mantis posted:What are the chances I can get this level of white/tan with a grey base coat? Pretty good actually. You will find it easier than white tbqh. Generally I would advise undercoating with grey or black if you're a beginner, and only do white when you're a bit more experienced. White creates lots of problems with having to fill all the crevices and not allowing you to take shortcuts, while not necessarily making that huge a difference unless your entire colour scheme is white or pastel. Cyclomatic posted:Is there a more paste like gap filler instead of the putty like green stuff? Not for sculpting, but repairing surfaces and filling in holes, where brittle is OK. Magic sculpt - mix in some water and it goes from putty-like to a more pasty consistency. It has a bit more body than a true paste so its good for bigger gaps. Superglue + talc is another excellent filler. Mix medium or thick superglue with talcum powder into a paste and use it to fill. Sandable within 1hr and after full cure in 24hrs it can hold a very sharp edge without being brittle. Excellent for pinholes and reconstructing hard edges. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 22:07
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Those wheeled Tauroxes have reminded me that I need some wheels for my artillery emplacements. Does anyone happen to know where I might find 30-40 mm artillery wheels of some sort? I had a look at the Victoria miniatures website, but they only seem to have 25mm ones. I think they'll look a bit small when paired with an Earthshaker. It's a real shame, because they look really cool.
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Oct 7, 2015 22:07
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Cyclomatic posted:Is there a more paste like gap filler instead of the putty like green stuff? Not for sculpting, but repairing surfaces and filling in holes, where brittle is OK. Liquid greenstuff by GW and liquid putty by vallejo.
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Oct 7, 2015 22:18
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Using Vallejo model paints. Some of the dudes I paint end up looking kind of "chalky", while other' dudes almost look like I've went over them with gloss varnish. It's not a big deal honestly, but curious as to why?
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Oct 7, 2015 23:11
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berzerkmonkey posted:Which one are you using? I need to get a setup like that - I like the "adjust on the fly" option. All airbrush regulators have a dial that you can adjust the air pressure with, no big deal to add one at the end of an air hose and they're easy to get online or at an airbrush specialist. Just use Teflon/plumber's/PTFE tape on all the connector threads.
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Oct 7, 2015 23:26
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Mugaaz posted:Using Vallejo model paints. Some of the dudes I paint end up looking kind of "chalky", while other' dudes almost look like I've went over them with gloss varnish. It's not a big deal honestly, but curious as to why? How much are you thinning your paints? VMC is really thick, and I've seen both of those happen with overly-thick paints. Also, VMC seems to be pretty bad about color separation in the pot in my experience, so you'll need to shake them really well before using them. I bought some 8mm hematite beads as agitators (don't use BBs like I did originally; they can stain your paints!), so hopefully when my current batch of guys is ready to paint, I won't have to shake them quite as hard.
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Oct 7, 2015 23:52
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The Locator posted:One thing I've discovered over the last year building model ships, is that good files make a huge difference over 'hobby' files, and good files are really stupidly expensive. My Vallorbe file arrived today (half-round, cut 2) and it's pretty nice. I'm not sure if it's $22 (including shipping) nice, but I'll keep using it and see what I think. It does seem to produce a slightly smoother finish than my Tamiya files (since the cut is finer), but I'm not sure if I actually need it to be that smooth.
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Oct 7, 2015 23:58
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Edit - NM read post wrong
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Oct 7, 2015 23:59
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Avenging Dentist posted:How much are you thinning your paints? VMC is really thick, and I've seen both of those happen with overly-thick paints. Also, VMC seems to be pretty bad about color separation in the pot in my experience, so you'll need to shake them really well before using them. I bought some 8mm hematite beads as agitators (don't use BBs like I did originally; they can stain your paints!), so hopefully when my current batch of guys is ready to paint, I won't have to shake them quite as hard. Usually 2:1 paint:water.
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Oct 8, 2015 00:48
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Avenging Dentist posted:My Vallorbe file arrived today (half-round, cut 2) and it's pretty nice. I'm not sure if it's $22 (including shipping) nice, but I'll keep using it and see what I think. It does seem to produce a slightly smoother finish than my Tamiya files (since the cut is finer), but I'm not sure if I actually need it to be that smooth. I imagine it depends a lot on how you are using them, and the materials you are working on. The half-round isn't honestly a file I use very much at all, since it will tend to act like a tiny saw at the edges, and the barrettes won't do that since they only cut on a single face. For myself, working with wood, the good files are completely worth it, as crappy files don't leave clean/sharp edges, and tend to cause the wood grain to 'fuzz' depending on the wood, whereas the good files, give me a remarkably clean cut, which is not only important for visible edges, but also for joints. Example: This bitte (not pushed all the way into the deck in the photo). I used the barrette file for 3 things on it - making the joints where the cross-piece joins the vertical fit nice and tight, shaping the actual top pieces (they are simply filed into a square piece of wood), and also squaring off and fitting the holes in the deck wood for the bitte to fit tightly down into.  Another example: The 'hobby' rat tail files are kind of fat and poorly shaped at the very end, so they are useless for very small openings, whereas the Vallorbe rat tails are perfectly usable all the way to their needle points so I can use them for cleaning up really small holes like the slots in these cat-heads that the brass sheaves go in.  And of course just regular 'filing' for shaping things cleanly like this mast-head.  Doing any of this work with the cheap hobby files would have been terrible and the end result wouldn't have been nearly as clean and sharp. I also use the square and triangle files for making little tiny round holes (using a drill) into square holes. All of the files have uses for different things, like shaping small bits like the ships wheel, or cleats:  or just finishing up parts so they fit together cleanly. In any case, I hope the file works out for you, but I certainly understand how they can be pretty pricey if the work you are doing doesn't really justify the difference.
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Oct 8, 2015 00:48
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The Locator posted:I imagine it depends a lot on how you are using them, and the materials you are working on. The half-round isn't honestly a file I use very much at all, since it will tend to act like a tiny saw at the edges, and the barrettes won't do that since they only cut on a single face. For myself, working with wood, the good files are completely worth it, as crappy files don't leave clean/sharp edges, and tend to cause the wood grain to 'fuzz' depending on the wood, whereas the good files, give me a remarkably clean cut, which is not only important for visible edges, but also for joints. I can definitely see how good files would be a big deal for wood. I had some MDF I needed to file down for a non-miniature project, and my hobby files didn't leave a very clean edge. Luckily, they're not really visible, so I don't care too much. I can also see how all the various shapes would be super-useful if you like to create shapes by filing pieces down. I'd considered getting a funky shape, but I wanted something close to what I use currently for comparison, and the half-round is my go-to file for cleaning up pewter.
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Oct 8, 2015 01:16
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Avenging Dentist posted:I can definitely see how good files would be a big deal for wood. I had some MDF I needed to file down for a non-miniature project, and my hobby files didn't leave a very clean edge. Luckily, they're not really visible, so I don't care too much. I can also see how all the various shapes would be super-useful if you like to create shapes by filing pieces down. I'd considered getting a funky shape, but I wanted something close to what I use currently for comparison, and the half-round is my go-to file for cleaning up pewter. I took a picture for you for your future consideration if you decide you need other shapes. I had purchased 4 different sets of 'micro' files from 4 different sources before getting the Vallorbe files. The rat-tail files are hilariously different. Here are 3 of the 'hobby' rat-tail files (I can't find the 4th one, but it's just as bad or worse) with the 2 Vallorbe's at the bottom.  I'm honestly not even sure why I still have the hobby files anymore. I absolutely never use them. If you are interested in specific shapes let me know and I'll do a photo comparing them like this for you.
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Oct 8, 2015 01:35
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I use files more than any other tool. I've been using one set of Nicholson Miniature Files for the entire time, about 8 years, with good results. Only in this last year have I noticed them having a little less bite than usual... but I haven't cleaned them recently either. They were a gift, but I think they go for about $60 for a set (provided you get the American made ones). Not as nice as the ones Locator has posted, but they haven't let me down. e: http://www.grainger.com/product/NICHOLSON-Miniature-Hobby-File-Set-1F882
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Oct 8, 2015 01:50
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THIS IS THE NEW poo poo malal donated the sigmarine as a very funny joke, and i painted him up to be a caricatured npc villain
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Oct 8, 2015 03:56
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Re: grey primer: thanks dudesSulecrist posted:THIS IS THE NEW poo poo That model is 
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Oct 8, 2015 06:23
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Color theory question. Does anything other than black/grey or brown really work with a really bright orange (like the orange from the middle model)? I think in theory blue is supposed to work with it, but seems to end up being pretty loud feeling unless you go for a very pale turquoise type blue and with a great deal of moderation.
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Oct 8, 2015 06:57
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berzerkmonkey posted:Which one are you using? I need to get a setup like that - I like the "adjust on the fly" option. It's this one that I got off of Amazon. The compressor, first moisture trap (without regulator), first air hose, and various couplers/attachments I got from Harbor Freight. I got the 2nd moisture trap (the one linked above), an air hose and some quick-release connectors for the airbrushes from Amazon. And as mentioned in another reply, I used teflon tape on all the connections, too.
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Oct 8, 2015 07:24
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Sulecrist posted:THIS IS THE NEW poo poo Warhammer AOS: "Do We Want It? No! Do We Need It? ... Eh."
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Oct 8, 2015 07:33
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Cyclomatic posted:Color theory question. Does anything other than black/grey or brown really work with a really bright orange (like the orange from the middle model)? I think in theory blue is supposed to work with it, but seems to end up being pretty loud feeling unless you go for a very pale turquoise type blue and with a great deal of moderation. I would say that warm white, tan, khaki, dark green, mustard yellow, silver, tin, very dark blue or red would work. The problem your facing is that it's basically a saturated primary color. Outside of shades you need colors that either work on the same level as the orange (tan, cream, or 'yellowish' colors) or ground it (dark complementary colors). Adding another bright complimentary primary color will make really loud. However, if you use it sparingly it can work. For example ontop of the orange in the shape of stripes, words, symbols, or blocking out some small panels. Do that and you can totally get away with it. It really just depends on the execution. BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Oct 8, 2015 |
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Oct 8, 2015 07:36
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Avenging Dentist posted:How much are you thinning your paints? VMC is really thick, and I've seen both of those happen with overly-thick paints. Also, VMC seems to be pretty bad about color separation in the pot in my experience, so you'll need to shake them really well before using them. I bought some 8mm hematite beads as agitators (don't use BBs like I did originally; they can stain your paints!), so hopefully when my current batch of guys is ready to paint, I won't have to shake them quite as hard. Quoted for truth - I bought zinc coated BBs specifically because they weren't supposed to rust or discolor. Now, of course, not only are they rusting/discoloring, they are getting stuck to the bottom of the containers, and/or getting stuck in the nozzles of the dropper bottles. Thank God I only did a handful of bottles - I recently ordered some Hematite beads as well, and am hoping that they aren't some cheap Chinese ball bearings or something. Speaking of Vallejo, I've had my first bottle go bad. My Blood Red decided to completely separate and leave a mess of semi-solid goo that I can't reconstitute. In addition, the remaining fluid is all gritty. So far, the only paints I own that have lasted through the years with no issues are the original GW paints in the Coat d'Arms jars. I need to just bite the bullet and go back to them or the PP paints, since they are made by the same company. 20+ years, and still perfectly usable... Sydney Bottocks posted:It's this one that I got off of Amazon. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Oct 8, 2015 |
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Oct 8, 2015 16:27
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berzerkmonkey posted:I recently ordered some Hematite beads as well, and am hoping that they aren't some cheap Chinese ball bearings or something. I tested my hematite beads by putting them in a salt water solution for a couple weeks and didn't see any rusting. If you're worried, I'd recommend trying that out.
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Oct 8, 2015 18:26
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Avenging Dentist posted:I tested my hematite beads by putting them in a salt water solution for a couple weeks and didn't see any rusting. If you're worried, I'd recommend trying that out. Will do - thanks.
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Oct 8, 2015 18:37
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Just to chime in a potential alternative to BBs or whatever for paint mixers, glass beads work very well, are cheap, and theoretically entirely inert so far as anything you'll be mixing is concerned. They aren't as heavy for their size, but you can get the biggest one that will fit in the bottle.
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Oct 9, 2015 03:34
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Agrinja posted:Just to chime in a potential alternative to BBs or whatever for paint mixers, glass beads work very well, are cheap, and theoretically entirely inert so far as anything you'll be mixing is concerned. They aren't as heavy for their size, but you can get the biggest one that will fit in the bottle. This is what I use, beads are really easy to get online.
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Oct 9, 2015 07:01
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Finally finished my avatar. I'm happy I only need the one. 
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Oct 9, 2015 16:41
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Agrinja posted:Just to chime in a potential alternative to BBs or whatever for paint mixers, glass beads work very well, are cheap, and theoretically entirely inert so far as anything you'll be mixing is concerned. They aren't as heavy for their size, but you can get the biggest one that will fit in the bottle. selnaric posted:Finally finished my avatar. I'm happy I only need the one.
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Oct 9, 2015 17:50
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SRM posted:Didn't Reaper's paints used to all have a tiny pewter skull in them for mixing paint? I don't know if I'm remembering that right but I think that's lovably goofy and I'm surprised GW doesn't do that. They did, yes. It proved to be a bit too expensive to do, so they switched it out to something cheaper. Plastic BBs I think.
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Oct 9, 2015 17:56
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Slimnoid posted:They did, yes. It proved to be a bit too expensive to do, so they switched it out to something cheaper. Plastic BBs I think. Aw shucks. That was always a fun little random thing, but I totally understand why they stopped.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:03
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Speaking of Reaper.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:06
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That rules. I should get some dumpsters and cargo containers for my urban board from them then.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:08
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SRM posted:That rules. I should get some dumpsters and cargo containers for my urban board from them then. Yeah, I'm going to be ordering a bunch of random stuff for painting experiments soon. Including the not-Doctor Who stuff as a gift for my god-daughter.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:18
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Yeah, I ordered a few Bones minis from their site to get the halloween deal thing. I actually ordered a few on Oct 1, before they announced that deal, but I did get a free bottle of pink paint with that order. So once they announced that stuff, I placed another order to get more minis and get freebies, whee Now just to figure out what to do with two bottles of bright pink paint
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Oct 9, 2015 18:23
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HJE-Cobra posted:Yeah, I ordered a few Bones minis from their site to get the halloween deal thing. I actually ordered a few on Oct 1, before they announced that deal, but I did get a free bottle of pink paint with that order. So once they announced that stuff, I placed another order to get more minis and get freebies, whee Hello Kittarii
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Oct 9, 2015 18:37
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Slimnoid posted:Yeah, I'm going to be ordering a bunch of random stuff for painting experiments soon. Including the not-Doctor Who stuff as a gift for my god-daughter. I just started painting their "not a TARDIS for copyright purposes" and let me tell you, do not be a total sperg like me and try to find the exact match for the official Pantone shade of blue. It doesn't exist in any model or craft paints as far as I can tell. Besides, it's been like nine different shades of blue over the course of its history, pick something that's good enough.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:45
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Terrific! The hair piece will never look good since it's at a perpendicular to the model, but your work makes it look like an animated statue with a mysteriously bleeding hand. I've never seen someone paint the Avatar like a golem or monument.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:49
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Latest work, the Rackham figure, Ejhin de Vanth
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Oct 10, 2015 00:30
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You really brought out the artistic flair in the lines of the figure.
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Oct 10, 2015 00:38
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Any advice for my soviet general goblins? Anything I should fix or should I just go ahead and seal them?
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Oct 10, 2015 00:53
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