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Don't use an impact gun to reassemble an engine. Or to remove head bolts. And if you want a torque wrench that tells you current torque and indicates when you've hit a certain point, then you need a digital one. But they're several times the price of the normal one.
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Oct 10, 2015 03:02
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0toShifty posted:Ingersoll-rand 20v Lithium impact (W7150) FYI if you're buying an electric impact, 20v lithium ion batteries and tools are the exact same as 18v  Boaz MacPhereson posted:Holy poo poo Yup, only took three times being forwarded to their order verification team (who twice emailed me to say it was fixed) an hour of talking to their customer service on the phone, from the customer service desk inside the store (trying to order online only cement fiber siding shingles, had to wind up buying a gift card to even order the drat things), and I can never change my email because the address is only whitelisted under that account now. Moral of the story, never buy a house. You never know what kind of previous owner issues will pop up 
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Oct 10, 2015 03:56
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. Did they sort it out at all or do you just have to deal?
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At that point, I'd be all "welp, Home Depot doesn't want my money."
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Oct 10, 2015 04:50
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http://www.amazon.com/Teledyne-Ther...l+wire+stripper I know stripper chat has died down, but I've always pined over one of these. Maybe an Ebay special will do me. I hear you must be careful with the temperature around Teflon insulation, maybe even with Tefzel/ETFE. Heck, I wouldn't mind a wire striper of some sort, it would make rebuilding ancient wiring harnesses much more cost effective.
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Oct 10, 2015 05:45
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0toShifty posted:I use an Ingersoll-rand 20v Lithium impact (W7150) for all my tire-changin' needs. The beautiful thing is that it's portable as hell. This. I've one of these and the led light that uses the same battery and they're both fantastic bits of kit. I've yet to find something it wont undo / shear on my crusty old land rovers. I've used it on portal frame steel buildings and other bits and pieces. The only impact I run off my compressor is the IR 90degree one when I can't get access with the 7150.
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Oct 10, 2015 12:09
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Uthor posted:At that point, I'd be all "welp, Home Depot doesn't want my money." I wish I could... but Lowe's is twice as far away, and shockingly, replacements for asbestos shingles are absurdly difficult to find (which is what led me down this rabbit hole to begin with) Only person that would notice or be otherwise inconvenienced by making a principled stand would sadly be me 
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Oct 10, 2015 17:45
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QuarkMartial posted:Could you also use torque sticks to get closer or is it not worth the effort? I found them to be as accurate as my clicker wrenches, but the big caveat (and possibly why they have a bad rep) is that you need to buy the correct torque stick for the power of your gun and/or calibrate your gun to the torque stick manufacturer's specifications (they usually give you the power range of the gun and line pressure). For example, I dumbly bought a 80 ft/lb stick intended for a 375-400 ft/lb gun, and using it on my ~200 ft/lb gun it would easily overtorque by ~30 ft/lbs if I hammered for a couple seconds too long, it just didn't have the power to twist the stick as designed. Once I bought a stick rated for a 150-250 ft/lb gun, it worked beautifully and I never had to 'guess' when to stop because the fastener would come to a dead stop very quickly and at the right torque, instead of inching tighter and tighter. You will also effectively lose some of the torque rating on your gun the more extensions you have attached, so that has to be considered. Having a torque stick with a chrome moly deep socket at the end of it will net you less rated torque vs having a torque stick with a socket of the correct size built into it. The latter is ideal though obviously gets expensive fast if you work with a wide range of fasteners/torques. Regardless of the accuracy of anything, I still cross-verify between my torque limiting stuff from time to time, everything will wear out or go out of calibration eventually so don't trust any one method for too long. On the flip side I also don't worry tooo much since torque is a bit of a BS number except when you're torquing to yield and everything is new/carefully prepped.
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Oct 10, 2015 21:47
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I (by which I mean the hackerspace I run) just got a Shoptask 17-20 XTMC for free, from an older guy moving to Thailand. It's mostly complete, major exceptions being: - The intermediate pulley between the mill motor and the drawbar went missing somewhere on IL route 20 in Elgin, IL. - The fan for the mill motor rubs a little bit on the enclosure for the lathe pulleys - The spring pin that holds the X axis handle in pace is missing - Needs a 3 jaw chuck - The belts are a little crusty, and could stand to be replaced - Missing pieces for the quill autofeed (not that I really care) - Missing a bolt for the tailstock gib (The two that are there seem to be working fine, though) In addition to that, I'd really like to get a VFD and some digital scales on it for speed control and DRO. Does anyone know of a manual / parts list / source of obsessive documentation about one of these machines? I've done some googling around, and haven't found anything authoritative. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Oct 11, 2015 |
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Oct 11, 2015 06:23
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Definitely a tool I could use for all my one off projects... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPKA2tG1JBI
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Oct 11, 2015 18:42
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I wonder how well it would stand up to having a MIG welder toolhead.
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Oct 11, 2015 20:04
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If they have that so you can change heads as part of a program (picking them from a rack etc), you could really do a hell of a lot with it as a "one hit" machine.
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Oct 11, 2015 20:41
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Wasabi the J posted:Definitely a tool I could use for all my one off projects... I dunno, it still seems like a novelty to me. Awhile back I picked up a 3d printer to help someone fabricate a bunch of sensor unit covers, but after that the novelty wore off pretty quickly. The CNC router function could be pretty useful, but unless I'm repetitively assembling several hundred things, I can't see myself ever using the screw head function. Still too niche in my opinion.
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Oct 11, 2015 21:13
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I feel the same way. I have plenty of uses for a printer, mill, and lathe. But something for automated construction like that? I don't have time to bother programming all that to do a one off thing. Maybe some little niche company that needs low volume stuff could use that, but it doesn't look real robust.
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Oct 11, 2015 21:37
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Sadi posted:I feel the same way. I have plenty of uses for a printer, mill, and lathe. But something for automated construction like that? I don't have time to bother programming all that to do a one off thing. Maybe some little niche company that needs low volume stuff could use that, but it doesn't look real robust. You can already do this with two or three different pieces of hardware, but to have an all-in-one "hobby" level machine would be pretty handy. One of my friends is really enthused with 3D printing to make things, but I've always seen its real benefit to be for rapid prototyping/fitting up rather than "manufacture" as such.
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Oct 11, 2015 22:38
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That seems like something that will become vaporware or will deliver only 70% of what it promises, leaving everyone disappointed. This laser cutter looks awesome, but I can think of like three things I would do with it, so hardly worth the cost to me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0R3mMUsHFvU
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Oct 11, 2015 23:03
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Uthor posted:This laser cutter looks awesome, but I can think of like three things I would do with it, so hardly worth the cost to me. With some marking fluid I would mark all my tools. Other things: advertise doing custom macbook etching on campus for $20-100 a pop, get a roll of sticker vinyl and do custom logo's and whatnot for windshields or windows, do custom wood plaques and awards, the sky is the limit.
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Oct 12, 2015 02:17
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Too bad it doesn't do laser sintering as well.
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Oct 12, 2015 03:05
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Dannywilson posted:With some marking fluid I would mark all my tools. Other things: advertise doing custom macbook etching on campus for $20-100 a pop, get a roll of sticker vinyl and do custom logo's and whatnot for windshields or windows, do custom wood plaques and awards, the sky is the limit. Laser cutter/engravers are awesome sauce. I have a 60W CO2. Maybe someday I will add a fibre laser to it. But the sky is the limit is absolutely true. Cutting out tedious, intricate, and fine paper/gasket/whatever? Stupid easy. I'm still looking for sticker vinyl that is laser cuttable. Most of them have PVC, which is super bad to cut (the C will escape). Got my hands on some 3M 3545C to test, hopefully it will work.
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Oct 12, 2015 03:06
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InitialDave posted:If they also had a 3D scanning head to turn it into effectively a 3D photocopier, it'd be REALLY useful for restoring rare/oddball car parts where you need to replicate a casting etc. Scan the old one, work up a better picture of what it should be with replacing missing lugs etc, 3D print one to check fit, use it to cast the replacement. xyzprinting actually do sell an all in one box that's a scanner and printer at the same time http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/da-Vinci-1.0-AiO No idea if it's any good, though.
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Oct 12, 2015 11:48
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OSU_Matthew posted:I dunno, it still seems like a novelty to me. Awhile back I picked up a 3d printer to help someone fabricate a bunch of sensor unit covers, but after that the novelty wore off pretty quickly. The CNC router function could be pretty useful, but unless I'm repetitively assembling several hundred things, I can't see myself ever using the screw head function. As a guy with a hand tremor, the precision soldering alone would make this worth a thousand bucks to me. I can repair wires on a car just fine, but that's as small as I will ever be able to do by hand.
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Oct 12, 2015 17:25
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Splizwarf posted:As a guy with a hand tremor, the precision soldering alone would make this worth a thousand bucks to me. I can repair wires on a car just fine, but that's as small as I will ever be able to do by hand. Yeah soldering is the worst for me as well. It would be amazing to see precision soldering.
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Oct 12, 2015 17:30
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Splizwarf posted:As a guy with a hand tremor, the precision soldering alone would make this worth a thousand bucks to me. I can repair wires on a car just fine, but that's as small as I will ever be able to do by hand. Electronics are soldered in ovens
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Oct 12, 2015 18:26
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You probably shouldn't reflow poo poo in the oven you're going to cook in, and a soldering iron (or soldering robot) takes up a hell of a lot less room than a dedicated reflow oven.
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Oct 12, 2015 18:52
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EightBit posted:Electronics are soldered in ovens For through-hole stuff there are also selective solder machines that are basically a pick and place with a solder fountain that spurts solder all over components: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAOLOSky9P4
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Oct 12, 2015 18:56
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Safety Dance posted:a soldering iron (or soldering robot) takes up a hell of a lot less room than a dedicated reflow oven. I use a toaster oven with a brick in it. Yeah, it's ghetto, but it works.
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Oct 12, 2015 21:14
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EightBit posted:Electronics are soldered in ovens Yeah, when they're made on a production line. Not so much when editing a project or replacing/swapping components.
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Oct 12, 2015 21:27
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Motronic posted:I use a toaster oven with a brick in it. Have you ever tried doing powder coat in a toaster oven? I never even thought of it, I have some small poo poo that would be perfect
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Oct 13, 2015 04:35
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Have you ever tried doing powder coat in a toaster oven? I never even thought of it, I have some small poo poo that would be perfect No, but I understand it should would just fine. I've considered grabbing a stove if i see on on the side of the road to put int he garage. I figure I can fit a whole wheel in a normal sized oven.
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Oct 13, 2015 16:56
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Have you ever tried doing powder coat in a toaster oven? I never even thought of it, I have some small poo poo that would be perfect I suggest getting a controller. We use one for baking small parts when using Gun Kote.
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Oct 13, 2015 17:53
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Motronic posted:No, but I understand it should would just fine. I've considered grabbing a stove if i see on on the side of the road to put int he garage. I figure I can fit a whole wheel in a normal sized oven. That's not a bad idea actually.
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Oct 14, 2015 02:15
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mod sassinator posted:For through-hole stuff there are also selective solder machines that are basically a pick and place with a solder fountain that spurts solder all over components: Lord have mercy on us all…this is beautiful…where have I been since 2009?
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Oct 14, 2015 06:49
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One of the hackerspaces up here got a big stinkin' Hobart MIG welder. I got some 1/4" wall square tubing and played with it a little bit last night.  Not pictured: The other piece of tubing that I thought was 1/4" that it burned straight through. Maybe *maybe* someday I'll use it to start on the Super Seven replica build I've been thinking about.
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Oct 14, 2015 14:16
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I decided to get in touch with my feminine side and use some nail polish to color code my sockets according to this scheme. http://sheldonbrown.com/colorcode.html Mostly decided to do this after doing some work on my dad's car and trying to figure out whose tools were whose when we were done. And constantly mixing up the 15mm and 17mm sockets. I wonder how they will hold up with use.   I think I'm going to grab some colored electrical tape to wrap around my wrenches...
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Oct 21, 2015 02:55
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Uthor posted:I decided to get in touch with my feminine side and use some nail polish to color code my sockets according to this scheme. I decided to use red and blue to distinguish between mine and others as well as between metric and standard. I thought about doing the individual colors for each size but figured this was easier.
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Oct 21, 2015 03:10
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El Jebus posted:I decided to use red and blue to distinguish between mine and others as well as between metric and standard. I thought about doing the individual colors for each size but figured this was easier. That seems to be the usual method. I figure I use metric 90% of the time, so it was a bit of a waste to do the standard ones.
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Oct 21, 2015 03:12
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quote:
Don't do this. It ends up coming off and leaving residue that sucks to get off.
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Oct 21, 2015 04:51
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The best is to get crayons and fill the stamped lettering, and wipe off the excess.
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Oct 21, 2015 04:59
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Not car related, I got this leather punch from Princess today and it's about as much of a piece of poo poo as can be expected. http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/leather-punch/A-p8123697e It almost fully penetrates the entire hole, almost, just leaving a bit of leather easily pulled off. No amount of adjusting or addition of muscle can overcome its innate shittiness. That said, I'm keeping it, because it kind of works.
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Oct 21, 2015 05:02
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Almost all cheap lovely ones do that, and for the same reason: the punch doesn't meet the anvil squarely. Try rotating the wheel just a little past the detent.
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Oct 21, 2015 17:25
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Is there a recommended electric compressed air system? Something like the cans of air duster but in a convenient rechargeable battery system a la makita/Bosch/whatever?
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Nov 1, 2015 18:43
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