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El Estrago Bonito posted:These one's are kind of neat but I feel at that point you could buy a Cake imprint mat at Michaels/Hobby Lobby and some Green Stuff and get the same level of detail fidelity for a lot cheaper. MDF is good for a lot of stuff, but it seems a bit textureless for bases is all.
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Oct 12, 2015 05:56
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will blow your mind.
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First set of vanilla Ghulams finished! Angled for slightly better light (gods, I need to just make a light-box already...):  Rear view:  The guy in the middle is clearly supposed to be an homage to Solid Snake from the Metal Gear Solid games. Most of the time you see this mini painted, the headband is, well, a headband. But I figured having only one eye and wanting to get into knife-fights means you get cut. Hence the bandage.  I tried to get the effect of old, crusted blood soaked through several layers of bandage: This makes 6 Infinity minis done now. And by starting with the cheap troops first, that's all of 92 points. 
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Oct 12, 2015 06:11
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In the interests of branching out and trying new paint ranges (I still think entirely in terms of the old GW range), does anyone have any absolute favorite colors, from any range? The specific colors aren't terribly important, since I could use a little of everything. I've seen a fair number of VMC recommendations elsewhere that I want to pick up (Deck Tan gets mentioned a lot), but I'm sure other ranges have stand-out colors too.
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Oct 12, 2015 07:02
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VMC Ivory, VMC Cam. Black Brown, VMA silvers in general, VMA Fluorescent Red, VMA Armor Brown (formerly Tank Brown), VGC Scurf Green, VGC Smokey Ink, VGA Bloody Red, P3 Coal Black, P3 Rucksack Tan, P3 Bloodstone, P3 Beaten Purple, P3 Pig Iron, Golden Acrylics Iridescent Bronze (Fine), Schminke Primacryl Titanium White. The last two are art store brands, but a tube of either will last you essentially forever.
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Oct 12, 2015 07:29
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For Reaper my standby paints: Linen White Ghost White Snow Shadow Golden Blonde Amber Gold Old West Rose. Everything else I use roughly equally, but special mention for Violet Red, Pale Violet Red, Marine Teal, Surf Aqua, and the set of clear brights for just being colors I really like even if I don't get to use them as often. I also really like the golden fluid acrylics for basics: Carbon Black Zinc White Titan Buff
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Oct 12, 2015 07:36
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Finally got somewhere on these guys, enough to get them based and get WIP pictures on my phone:       and boss man:  Looking at them in low-res phone pictures, now I'm a little worried the gold trim isn't showing through and the pigment powders are too close to the orange main color...and maybe the green in the Dominus's vials should be blue to match the spot color of the tracked dudes? krushgroove fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 09:02
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Avenging Dentist posted:In the interests of branching out and trying new paint ranges (I still think entirely in terms of the old GW range), does anyone have any absolute favorite colors, from any range? The specific colors aren't terribly important, since I could use a little of everything. I've seen a fair number of VMC recommendations elsewhere that I want to pick up (Deck Tan gets mentioned a lot), but I'm sure other ranges have stand-out colors too. From Reaper, in addition to the ones Gareth listed, I'd go with: Walnut Brown (my favorite off-black) Brown Liner (especially if painting Bones) True Silver Aged Pewter (great as a wash over other metals for a nice weathered effect) Bloodstain Red (really, the blood reds work together pretty well)
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Oct 12, 2015 09:20
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SRM posted:Don't wash whole vehicles. You'll get some really gross pooling that won't actually make your model look weathered and dirty, it'll just make it look like poo poo. Use wash strategically around rivets and raised details and use it to shade the recesses of the model only, then clean it up with the base color. Yeah I figured something like that would happen if I was going to use that technique.
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Oct 12, 2015 09:41
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stabbington posted:VMC Ivory, VMC Cam. Black Brown, VMA silvers in general, VMA Fluorescent Red, VMA Armor Brown (formerly Tank Brown), VGC Scurf Green, VGC Smokey Ink, VGA Bloody Red, P3 Coal Black, P3 Rucksack Tan, P3 Bloodstone, P3 Beaten Purple, P3 Pig Iron, Golden Acrylics Iridescent Bronze (Fine), Schminke Primacryl Titanium White. The last two are art store brands, but a tube of either will last you essentially forever. I love P3 Coal Black and P3 Bloodstone. Some solid recommendations right here.
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Oct 12, 2015 10:36
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I have discovered that making a wash out of P3 Ember Orange is perfect for coloring sand.
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Oct 12, 2015 10:43
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I'm trying to get back into painting minis, and I've been going through the OP, but I'd appreciate some extra/direct advice if anyone has it- I'm in an environment where spray priming isn't really possible. I'm planning on priming with gesso- I have plenty of experience using it and haven't really encountered problems (with liquitex black and grey, anyway). I'm basically going to be starting over from scratch, and have literally nothing at the moment. So I've been on a shopping spree trying to get what I'll need. I've previously used Citadel and P3 paints for my past 40k and Warmahordes painting years ago, and they've been fine, but I'd like to try something different. I have some Army Painter sets/colors sitting in a preorder now, but I'm having second thoughts and was thinking I can get a better range/quality with Vallejo, but I'm not really clear on the difference between Vallejo Model Color and Vallejo Game Color, or if they are superior ranges. My current plan is to paint Frostgrave and Malifaux minis, so a mix of primarily muted/natural colors and some bright oranges/blues/greens/purples, with some washes/inks and preferably brush-on matt varnish. With this background, what would you recommend? If price is not a large issue, and I have nothing else at the moment, what might be a good set to purchase?
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Oct 12, 2015 11:13
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Buy a few paints from every range, and see what works for you. All the paint ranges are good, but people paint differently and it comes down to personal style and preference. I love reaper paints. They work for me. I don't like VMC, but they aren't bad paints. They just don't gel for me. It'll take time to suss out what works best for you. Don't fret the small stuff. Just paint.
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Oct 12, 2015 13:05
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Avenging Dentist posted:In the interests of branching out and trying new paint ranges (I still think entirely in terms of the old GW range), does anyone have any absolute favorite colors, from any range? The specific colors aren't terribly important, since I could use a little of everything. I've seen a fair number of VMC recommendations elsewhere that I want to pick up (Deck Tan gets mentioned a lot), but I'm sure other ranges have stand-out colors too. In addition to the ones Gareth and JackMann posted for Reaper: Woodstain Brown The Dark Elf triad Seafoam Blue (That triad works well for blue jeans, too.)
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Oct 12, 2015 16:44
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I have some Secret Weapon "lava flow" bases, and I want to fill the cracks with a fresh, wet blood effect for a demonic, hellish look. I've never done water effects or painted blood before. Does anyone have any tips? Is it as simple as applying dyed resin to the base with a disposable dropper, or is resin too thick for that? Or do I paint the base red and add something glossy on top? Product recommendations very welcome!
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Oct 12, 2015 17:41
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:I have some Secret Weapon "lava flow" bases, and I want to fill the cracks with a fresh, wet blood effect for a demonic, hellish look. I've never done water effects or painted blood before. Does anyone have any tips? Is it as simple as applying dyed resin to the base with a disposable dropper, or is resin too thick for that? Or do I paint the base red and add something glossy on top? Product recommendations very welcome! 
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Oct 12, 2015 20:29
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That's much simpler than I thought it would be. Thanks!
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Oct 12, 2015 20:42
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What kind of rear end in a top hat sculpts irises and pupils on true scale 28mm eyes. That poo poo ain't gonna cast. It's hard enough to paint eyes without them being a jagged mess.
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Oct 12, 2015 22:22
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Thanks to everyone who posted their favorite paints! Time to order a bunch and mess with em now!Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Buy a few paints from every range, and see what works for you. All the paint ranges are good, but people paint differently and it comes down to personal style and preference. My goal is to get comfortable with all the various ranges so that I can just pick the color I like the most without being worried that it's from a range I haven't figured out how to deal with. If I experiment with the best from each range, that'll hopefully give me a better idea of how each range works (and I won't end up with 5 different brands of red and only use one of them).
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Oct 13, 2015 00:13
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Cyclomatic posted:Painting black, or even greys, tends to straight kick my rear end. I really wish I could figure out the trick of it. VGC Heavy Charcoal is my go-to for leather, for example. It looks black by itself, but put it next to some pure black paint and it seems to have a bit of a brown/greenish tint to it. (This is my experience at least, other people will have their own way of doing it) Gravy Train Robber posted:I'm trying to get back into painting minis, and I've been going through the OP, but I'd appreciate some extra/direct advice if anyone has it- The VGC range is also the one that is intended to have the most GW-equivalent colours, so if you working to colour schemes written in terms of GW paints then VGC will normally give you the best palette matches. Both sets can be treated the same way as far as technique, and work perfectly well when mixed together, so it might also come down to what you can most easily get locally. Regarding primers: Vallejo do a line of primers that can be sprayed or brushed on. (Be careful that you don't fall in to the Grey Primer trap though - that isn't actually a primer, but a paint that has the colour of the grey primer used on tanks or something) Also related to the "What is your favourite paint talk": Vallejo Model Air Steel is the nicest (acrylic) shiny metal you'll ever use. Despite being in the 'Air' range, it works perfectly well on a brush as through an airbrush, and covers beautifully smoothly.
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Oct 13, 2015 00:50
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Deanut Pancer posted:Pretty much nothing in nature is truly black... Depending on your definition of "black", that includes black paints too. 
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Oct 13, 2015 01:22
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So I ended up ordering some regular Game Color by mistake in my order of Model and Game Air (specifically Glorious Gold, Gunmental, Moon Yellow, and White.) Is there any recommendation on ratios to thin them to match the rest of the paints? For drybrushing and mixing, am I even going to need to thin them at all?
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Oct 13, 2015 01:54
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Gravy Train Robber posted:With this background, what would you recommend? If price is not a large issue, and I have nothing else at the moment, what might be a good set to purchase? Not minitaire. I actually did this exercise a few months ago though and what I came up with was pulling a scattered list of paints from most of the major manufacturers. Certain colors from each different manufacturer are just loving great. For example Coal Black (which isn't really very black) from Privateer Press is an amazing color, but most of my paints are not P3. I just really like that one. I like P3 inks as well, but I do use certain inks and washes from other companies. I also use some poo poo for painting that isn't even paint. For example if I want to chrome something up I use a bottle of silver marker ink. What I did in this instance, and what I think might be good for you, is to come up with a number of paints you want, and fill out all the functions of each paint. Maybe you don't like painting yellow, so you don't really need many yellows, but for instance with me I love greens and purples so I have a lot of them. Once you know what colors you want you can pick and choose from different ranges. If I had to recommend a specific paint line for you to get everything from though, it would absolutely be Vallejo Game Air.
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Oct 13, 2015 03:12
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signalnoise posted:I actually did this exercise a few months ago though and what I came up with was pulling a scattered list of paints from most of the major manufacturers. If you still have the list, I wouldn't mind seeing it too. I'll even compile it into the list I'm already making and make a big post about the colors people are recommending, since I think it'd help folks branch out and find new paints they really like.
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Oct 13, 2015 03:32
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Thank you all for the fantastic advice! I really appreciate it
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Oct 13, 2015 05:04
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The banner looks good, nice to see it finally finished.El Estrago Bonito posted:Do you need the paint itself to be magnetic or do you just need metallic paint that will adhere to magnets? Paint/ink would need to be magnetic. Partly to experiment with tracing the numbers on cheapass checks so that MICR systems will detect them, partly to experiment with effects on miniatures.
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Oct 13, 2015 09:37
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Avenging Dentist posted:If you still have the list, I wouldn't mind seeing it too. I'll even compile it into the list I'm already making and make a big post about the colors people are recommending, since I think it'd help folks branch out and find new paints they really like. http://i.imgur.com/7PLHPuO.png is the best I can do with the internet I have right now
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Oct 13, 2015 12:09
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I am thinking of using Resin bases, which I've never done before. Is pinning the only way to get models to stay/remain stable on a resin base? I am a bit worried since the Malifaux models in particular look quite delicate.
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Oct 13, 2015 15:39
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Gravy Train Robber posted:I am thinking of using Resin bases, which I've never done before. Is pinning the only way to get models to stay/remain stable on a resin base? I am a bit worried since the Malifaux models in particular look quite delicate. No, you can score the contact points with something sharp and use 2-part epoxy glue. But in my experience, it's not worth the hassle, MFX Ht2 minis are tiny, resin bases heavy, and they're gonna be a PITA to transport and handle.
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Oct 13, 2015 15:46
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Gravy Train Robber posted:I am thinking of using Resin bases, which I've never done before. Is pinning the only way to get models to stay/remain stable on a resin base? I am a bit worried since the Malifaux models in particular look quite delicate. Malifaux has some incredibly impractical sculpts. Whomever thought this big winged Young Nephalim balancing on one itty bitty hoof was a good idea is a loving maroon.
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Oct 13, 2015 16:29
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I'm not sure if this is also the place for modelling queries, but who does little bits of brass for pinning and where can I give them my money?
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Oct 13, 2015 21:23
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spectralent posted:I'm not sure if this is also the place for modelling queries, but who does little bits of brass for pinning and where can I give them my money? K&S has a huge variety of brass rod. I prefer 1/32" rod for infantry-sized guys. You should be able to get them at just about any model railroading shop.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:27
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spectralent posted:I'm not sure if this is also the place for modelling queries, but who does little bits of brass for pinning and where can I give them my money? Uh, I bought mine from the model train supply down the street.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:27
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The Privateer Press pinning expansion kits aren't a bad deal either as for $3.50-ish you get 6 6" brass rods and 3 drill bits of the proper size which can be the trickier bit to track down especially for the really tiny sizes like 0.5mm. Otherwise for 1mm pinning I just use paper clips.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:31
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I'm with darnon. For pinning you should just use paper clips. Small ones for delicate projects and larger ones for your bigger needs.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:33
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Oh, man, that's much simpler than I was thinking. Paperclips it is.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:45
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 So I have some cows. I want to cut the heads off half and re-glue them to the other cows. Any tips on doing that? Using a multi-tool knife is going to take forever, is this just going to have to be slow or is there a faster way? edit: got it, cutting with pressure is better than sawing. Foolster41 fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 13, 2015 21:51
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jeweler's saw? depends on the material, and how much you are willing to lose in the process.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:53
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Do you care about the bodies? If not, just use clippers, then sand the necks flat.
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Oct 13, 2015 22:01
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yeah, I don't much care to keep the headless cows. Scissors actually works pretty well too.  Just 9 more to go
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Oct 13, 2015 22:08
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BULBASAUR posted:I'm with darnon. For pinning you should just use paper clips. Small ones for delicate projects and larger ones for your bigger needs. I'd be careful with paperclips. If they're steel, you'll need heavy-duty wire cutters unless you like ruining your hobby cutters. Aluminum paper clips should be fine, although I think they're weaker than brass. The other nice thing about brass rod is that it's perfectly round and smooth, so it's also useful for replacing particularly narrow staffs/banner poles. Plus, K&S's 1/16" brass tubing fits perfectly around their 1/32" brass rod, so it's easy to make a detachable banner pole with it.
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Oct 13, 2015 22:26
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