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SiGmA_X posted:No. Like I said, I don't use checking with them, and it was a credit card. Ah yeah I was saying that I caught the pending charge and not them. So it is weird they took care of it for me but not you.
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Oct 8, 2015 05:58
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spwrozek posted:Ah yeah I was saying that I caught the pending charge and not them. So it is weird they took care of it for me but not you. Maybe I had a crappy rep. It wasn't hard to rectify after it posted, and it was a tiny tiny fraction of that cards limit so it wasn't a big deal at all. Weird it was a different customer experience for us though.
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Oct 8, 2015 06:59
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Made my own thread http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3745736
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Oct 8, 2015 07:44
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Is there a way to prevent Mint from double-counting charges via Paypal and Venmo? Example: I sent $105 through Venmo. -$105 from my bank account, but Venmo is also showing -$105 without any deposit of +$105, totalling -$210 for the same 105 purchase. I can manually add transactions but was hoping there was a better fix.
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Oct 8, 2015 16:43
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If you mark a transaction as a Transfer, it won't count toward any budgets or spending. So one of those transactions should be considered a transfer, and one should be the "purchase". Venmo and Paypal will be kind of quirky like that since they aren't a payment processor per se. You first have to transfer money from your bank to the account, and then transfer it from your Venmo/Paypal account to the person, even though they kind of automate the process into a single "pay a person" feature. That's what I like about SquareCash -- no intermediary account balances, and no social sharing crap either as a bonus.
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Oct 8, 2015 18:25
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:I just got this from Ally: For account tiers like this, do they work per account or per account type? I have like 3 different Savings accounts with Ally for various purposes to make it easier to view their respective balances, but am now going to likely be penalized for keeping things parted out this way. Probably worth the loss of interest on those smaller sums, though, to keep goals clear.
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Oct 10, 2015 00:25
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So I want to understand how "minimum payments" for various loans work. I can think of three different ways they might. 1) Fixed minimum payment "you must pay unchanging x dollars per month until there is no more balance left in the account". Here, prepaying is equivalent to investing at whatever the interest rate on the loan is, except you cannot "uninvest" that money - it effectively shaves months off the end of the loan, but no other changes to the payment structure. 2) Fixed end "you must pay x dollars per month such that if you paid x every month the loan would have 0 balance by this fixed date". Here prepaying won't shorten the loan length unless you pay it off entirely, but it will reduce whatever future payments you need to make. 3) Some combination of the two How does it typically work for various kinds of loans (mortgage, car, credit card)? My girlfriend has a car loan like number 1, but I'd find it surprising if most car loans, let alone other types of loans, worked that way.
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Oct 10, 2015 08:48
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ShadowHawk posted:So I want to understand how "minimum payments" for various loans work. I can think of three different ways they might. I think there is some minor confusion regarding two different things regarding a loan. The first is if the loan has a prepayment penalty. This would limit how much of the loan can be repaid per a time period, generally a year, and what the penalty would be if more is paid in that time period. The second is how the bank applies prepayments. The options here are what you stated, either extra payment goes towards the principle and you must still make the next monthly payment in full or you pay the monthly payment early and interest still accumulates. As far as I'm away this is not generally outlined in the loan terms and the default for each bank is not consistent. You should be able to ask for it to be applied either way, normally the first is more beneficial to the debtor as it lowers the overall interest paid.
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Oct 10, 2015 18:25
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Hi. I'm a U.S. citizen but I've literally lived my whole life abroad. My legal and tax residence is abroad and all of my income is abroad. I need to open a bank account in the U.S. but obviously being physically present in the bank is problematic. Is there any decent bank that will do this sort of stuff online? I have an SSN and pay taxes in the U.S. so there is some sort of record of my existence.
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Oct 11, 2015 03:45
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:Hi. I'm a U.S. citizen but I've literally lived my whole life abroad. My legal and tax residence is abroad and all of my income is abroad. What specific kind of banking do you need? Because if you just want a checking/savings account you can get those from an all-online bank like Ally.
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Oct 11, 2015 06:26
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:What specific kind of banking do you need? Because if you just want a checking/savings account you can get those from an all-online bank like Ally. This sounds pretty much exactly what I was looking for, thanks. For now I just need to hold the money and ideally: 1) make money off interest 2) make payments online, particularly credit cards. 3) link my bank account to Robinhood since I'd like to maybe start buying/selling stock, when I get some extra cash. 4) pay my taxes Would a savings account be enough for this? I don't need a debit card. dpkg chopra fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Oct 11, 2015 |
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Oct 11, 2015 19:17
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:3) link my bank account to Robinhood since I'd like to maybe start buying/selling stock, when I get some extra cash. Cuidado.
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Oct 11, 2015 20:37
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:3) link my bank account to Robinhood since I'd like to maybe start buying/selling stock, when I get some extra cash. What is Robinhood?
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Oct 11, 2015 20:41
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Hadlock posted:What is Robinhood?
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Oct 11, 2015 21:02
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Moneyball posted:Cuidado. Any reason in particular? Regardless, apparently Ally requires a US address to open an account, which is of course a problem.
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Oct 11, 2015 21:03
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If you are in a position to classify a child as an employee would it make sense to use a ROTH IRA as a tool for college savings? Would it be worse/better/same as using something like a 529?
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Oct 12, 2015 08:23
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hitachi posted:If you are in a position to classify a child as an employee would it make sense to use a ROTH IRA as a tool for college savings? Would it be worse/better/same as using something like a 529? Interesting question, and "it depends" is probably the best answer. Family owned businesses can employ their kids and have exemptions to some child labor laws, so it depends on the state. Roth IRA's take advantage of the low (or no) tax bracket that minors are in, and have a no penalty withdrawal (for contributions only, not earnings). On the other hand, a 529 can be used for qualifying expenses, both contributions and earnings. One of the best ways to transfer wealth to the next generation, and a lot of wealthy people do this, is to get your children to work at the family business as early as legally possible and make sure to pay them enough to reach the contribution limit (earned income of $3,000 means you can only contribute $3,000 to an IRA, 2015 contribution limit is $5,500). The agreement is "Son, work for me and for every dollar you earn I'll put a dollar into an IRA for you." Imagine working for mom and dad at age 12-18 and heading off to college with $33,000 in your retirement fund already. Even without contributing anything else that's 40 years of compound interest until retirement age. So, if you're in a position to classify a child as an employee - why not do both?
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Oct 12, 2015 19:36
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Hello personal finance thread. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this, however I don't see a better thread. I'm looking to give some money to a local 501(c)3 organization, but I requested their most recently filed form 990, and I am alarmed that one of the officers is pulling 90k a year (Part VII, Section A) on revenues of 400k a year (Part I, Line 12). Is that unreasonably high compensation, if said officer is doing the ground work, putting in 40 hour weeks fundraising and lobbying?
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Oct 12, 2015 22:01
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Where does the other 310k go? How long has this person worked at the org? How were their revenues last year (is he performing)? Does the money that isn't taken as salary get sent to the right places (a charitable dollar can be used efficiently... or not)? I'm a proponent of market-rate salaries for non-profits (competent management is rare; pay them what they're worth), so this isn't extremely alarming just going off of income. That being said, due diligence on who you're giving money to is awesome, and if the organization is a front for his pan-handling that's not cool.
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Oct 12, 2015 22:15
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Is it possible that part of the 90k is used for expenses for fundraising, outreach, lobbying, etc?
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Oct 12, 2015 22:15
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Do you know where they live? If it's somewhere ridiculous like San Francisco $90k is like barely able to scrape by.
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Oct 12, 2015 22:23
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Also, is the full $90k just salary+bonuses, or is it with all associated payroll expenses? If it's the latter, the actual salary is likely closer to $65k. DNK posted:Where does the other 310k go? How long has this person worked at the org? How were their revenues last year (is he performing)? Does the money that isn't taken as salary get sent to the right places (a charitable dollar can be used efficiently... or not)? A good post. People get sticker shock seeing that a charity spends $100M annually on advertising and marketing. That's no problem either, if spending that $100M is the difference between pulling in $800M in donations compared to $100M. The real question (that's hard to read directly from the financials) is if the officer is worth $90k based on the value she adds to the organization, or if there's someone else out there who could do more with a a $90k salary.
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Oct 12, 2015 22:27
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200k goes to legal, which is in line with the orgs purpose. 70k goes to marketing. The rest is small potatos (accounting, insurance, travel, merchant & website fees, etc). And this is inland California, so the cost of living is high but not too high. canyoneer posted:Also, is the full $90k just salary+bonuses, or is it with all associated payroll expenses? Where in the form is this broken down?
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Oct 12, 2015 22:46
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What are good habits that prevent splurging or what are thoughts you have that dissuade you from splurging in the moment?
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Oct 13, 2015 21:30
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Edgar Allan Pwned posted:What are good habits that prevent splurging or what are thoughts you have that dissuade you from splurging in the moment? Having a budget with built in "fun money" category.
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Oct 13, 2015 21:34
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The Mandingo posted:Having a budget with built in "fun money" category. Very good advice. I have a 'misc' category for kind of 'whatever I want' items e: or if something unexpected comes up
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Oct 13, 2015 21:43
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I'm getting a settlement check from insurance from an auto accident. Can I just sign this over to the dealer as a down or do I need to deposit it first?
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Oct 13, 2015 22:41
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FCKGW posted:I'm getting a settlement check from insurance from an auto accident. Can I just sign this over to the dealer as a down or do I need to deposit it first? Why on earth would you want to do that? Don't you want a record of having received the check and deposited it in to your accounts?
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Oct 14, 2015 11:58
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Why on earth would you want to do that? Don't you want a record of having received the check and deposited it in to your accounts? Since it's all going towards a down what's the difference? Depositing the check and the transferring it all out seems unnecessary and just adding delays to the transaction.
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Oct 14, 2015 14:26
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FCKGW posted:Since it's all going towards a down what's the difference? Depositing the check and the transferring it all out seems unnecessary and just adding delays to the transaction. I wrote a long post but you want a paper trail of EVERYTHING. You want to be able to prove, if necessary, that you received a specific amount of money from your insurance company. If you sign the check to the dealer, how do you plan to do that?
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Oct 14, 2015 14:53
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I wrote a long post but you want a paper trail of EVERYTHING. You want to be able to prove, if necessary, that you received a specific amount of money from your insurance company. If you sign the check to the dealer, how do you plan to do that? I'd still personally deposit and then write a check to the dealer. But that's because I like paper trails and easy traceability in Quicken 
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Oct 14, 2015 16:03
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I guess so. I know the dealer would take a personal check for a down and sit on it for a couple days waiting for it to clear anyways.
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Oct 14, 2015 16:26
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FCKGW posted:I guess so. I know the dealer would take a personal check for a down and sit on it for a couple days waiting for it to clear anyways. If you do mean there is a waiting period for the check to clear, get a cashiers check. Simple! Also, countersigning checks often isn't allowed anymore. When I was a kid in the 90's, my parents or I would countersign and deposit into different accounts without issue. These days my credit union disallows it. YMMV applies here I'm sure.
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Oct 14, 2015 16:34
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For my car purchase 2 years ago I had to put down a $500 deposit to get them to bring it in from another dealership (wanted a specific color/trim package). We did that over the phone with my debit card. Then I got the exact price of the car and got my financing from Wells Fargo for whatever amount in the form of a cashier's check, and then I had to write a personal check to cover the difference between the price and the loan. Turns out the guy never ran the $500 against my debit card because I just don't think he cared that much. Nice thing about buying a $12k tiny hatchback from a guy that normally sells $40k trucks, he just didn't give a gently caress.
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Oct 14, 2015 16:43
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Whats an average grocery budget for one single person? I'm averaging about $220 a month for myself and that just seems high. I cook %90 of my meals at home, I might eat out twice in a month at that. I think I'm a pretty good grocery shopper. I mostly shop at Aldi, get produce from the farmers market or another nearby grocery store, and buy in bulk when it makes sense at Costco. I don't even eat a ton of meat, but I just can't seem to figure out where the money is going. Looking back at receipts my biggest grocery expenses seem to be coffee, which I buy in a 3 lb bag from Costco for $20 but will last me 2 months probably. Frozen berries from Costco are another $15 but probably last a month at least.
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Oct 14, 2015 17:25
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Depends on where you live but that's not very high at all. For 30 days and 2.5 meals/day, it comes out to $3 a meal, which is pretty good. Keep in mind that, often, eating healthy is actually more expensive than eating poorly.
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Oct 14, 2015 17:30
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Whats an average grocery budget for one single person? I'm averaging about $220 a month for myself and that just seems high. I cook %90 of my meals at home, I might eat out twice in a month at that. I think I'm a pretty good grocery shopper. I mostly shop at Aldi, get produce from the farmers market or another nearby grocery store, and buy in bulk when it makes sense at Costco. I don't even eat a ton of meat, but I just can't seem to figure out where the money is going. Looking back at receipts my biggest grocery expenses seem to be coffee, which I buy in a 3 lb bag from Costco for $20 but will last me 2 months probably. Frozen berries from Costco are another $15 but probably last a month at least. I recently moved to Costco coffee, $15/3lb bag (I an going to try the other blends soon, on my second bag/type so far, may go up to 18-20 though I like this one..) lasts me/guests 6wks. Way way cheaper than store bought!
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Oct 14, 2015 17:37
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I try to stick to around $200 a month if I'm just shopping at grocery stores. Then I get lazy and balloon my spending with fast food.
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Oct 14, 2015 17:42
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A grocery budget is going to be pretty regional, in some places food is simply more expensive and there isn't a lot you can do about it. It's also going to be very dependent on your diet, in terms of meat, dry goods, fresh produce, etc. Does your 'grocery' budget also include household goods like cleaners and so on? A lot of those are things that make sense to try and buy in either bulk or try and work on getting at sale/couponed. You can buy a whole bunch of toilet paper at Costco and then forget about it for six months, for instance. Buying at a farmer's market is almost never the best choice pricewise, but I am not going to tell you not to do that because it has other benefits that are worth considering. If you want to really work at it, I would recommend that you bring a receipt from Costco to your grocery store and vice versa to do comparisons on specific products, because usually there are given products that are better one place or another. For instance, we've found that milk is usually much cheaper at Costco than anywhere else, but pasta is permanently on sale at Stop and Shop for a lower price than even Costco's bulk rate.
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Oct 14, 2015 17:44
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I was thinking the other day that it's insane that in 2015 payment processors don't have the option for just emailing your full itemized receipt, as opposed to just having the full amount show up on your credit report (e.g.: Costco - $224.84). It would make accounting so much easier if you could just get a digital copy of that and feed into Quicken, or Mint, or whatever. Not to mention how much easier your life would be come tax season.
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Oct 14, 2015 17:51
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