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a life less posted:I think it's possible. I think a more accurate goal for your reactive dog is to have him learn to tolerate the presence of other (polite) dogs. They don't really need a canine BFF, and some may never enjoy the company of other dogs, but most can learn to cope and co-exist. I think working with a trainer is a good idea. Just re-align your expectations a wee bit. That's really good to hear! Yeah, my main goal is just for her to not have a totally stressed out uncomfortable reaction to butt sniffs and other random dog encounters that can't be helped. I mean, I feel like it would make her quality of life better if she didn't get stressed out during those situations. Of course if it's not a well-behaved dog on the other end there's not much anyone can do. Also it would be awesome to not have to board her over the holidays if she could come with me to some houses that have dogs in them! But that's like an ultimate end-goal. Triangulum posted:I don't know about being BFFs with other dogs, but teaching your dog to tolerate others is usually possible. All of my dogs are varying levels of dog aggressive and they coexist more or less peacefully together but none of them will ever enjoy the company of a strange dog. I don't think its super realistic to expect her to eventually enjoy strange dogs but she can learn to cope with them and you may luck out and find a dog or two she legitimately likes. Sorry, yeah, BFFs is not the end goal, but toleration totally is! "it's ok he's friendly" is the worst thing ever. My response is always "my dog isn't." My dog is super cute so people don't care, but it helps that I myself am very frightening. edit: proof: cloudy fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Oct 14, 2015 |
# ? Oct 14, 2015 22:25 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 16:12 |
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cloudy posted:Are there success stories of leash reactive dogs coming to like other dogs? I want to work with a trainer who has a well behaved dog, but haven't started yet. My dog is leash reactive and loves other dogs... as soon as I drop the leash.
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# ? Oct 15, 2015 00:21 |
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cloudy posted:Are there success stories of leash reactive dogs coming to like other dogs? I want to work with a trainer who has a well behaved dog, but haven't started yet. My dog is leash/barrier reactive and I've been making an effort to work on it for close to a year now and we've just now gotten to the point where I can take him on a walk and not have him BARKBARKBARK at dogs we pass in yards and stuff. He's okay enough now that we can take him to a park and let him off leash as long as he's got something to do other than focus on the other dogs like chasing his ball. He's also cool with hanging out with dogs he knows like his agility class classmates and our next door neighbors' dogs. He doesn't actively play with them but he's okay to coexist without starting poo poo which seems to be your goal, so it is totally possible it just takes some work. A year ago was a totally different story, I couldn't take him anywhere without it being a huge ordeal if we saw another dog. I took him to a dog behaviorist after ruling out any medical problems that would cause aggression and she gave us some stuff to work on like heeling and targeting and generally making me more interesting than being a poo poo to other dogs. In a nutshell what you need to do is reward the hell out of her whenever she decides to ignore another dog rather than getting pissy. If she starts being an rear end you stop and turn around and walk away, if she has the opportunity to be a dick to another dog but chooses not to you stuff her full of treats. This will probably result in you looking like an idiot and your neighbors wondering wtf you're doing as you keep walking the same half block over and over again but it will get better, it just takes time.
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# ? Oct 15, 2015 02:29 |
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Dyna Soar posted:I probably won't go full raw food, i'll keep it at least 50% or more kibble. The kibble we have, Golden Eagle Holistic Health is supposed to be very high quality stuff and should be fine on its own. Any food or treat that is not balanced should not consist of more than 10% of an animal's daily caloric intake or you risk running into nutritional deficiencies. Honestly the benefits of raw are limited to anecdotes. If you want to try it but are worried about nutritional balance, I know that there are raw food companies in the US and Canada that will at least formulate diets for AAFCO standards and test for potential pathogens or bacterial contamination in the food. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what is available in your area. Unless you've put in the research to really do this correctly and be careful, I would not do it. I have seen dogs with multiple broken bones from improperly balanced raw diets.
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# ? Oct 15, 2015 04:50 |
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*lays facedown on floor and screams inarticulately into carpet* what the gently caress happened to pi
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# ? Oct 15, 2015 04:58 |
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Superconsndar posted:*lays facedown on floor and screams inarticulately into carpet* what the gently caress happened to pi
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# ? Oct 15, 2015 05:22 |
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Superconsndar posted:*lays facedown on floor and screams inarticulately into carpet* what the gently caress happened to pi gibbis, people taking the poo poo rescuemoms post seriously
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# ? Oct 15, 2015 06:38 |
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Just feed your dog whatever, it'll be fine.
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# ? Oct 15, 2015 13:12 |
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Braki posted:Any food or treat that is not balanced should not consist of more than 10% of an animal's daily caloric intake or you risk running into nutritional deficiencies. Honestly the benefits of raw are limited to anecdotes. If you want to try it but are worried about nutritional balance, I know that there are raw food companies in the US and Canada that will at least formulate diets for AAFCO standards and test for potential pathogens or bacterial contamination in the food. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what is available in your area. Noted. I'll make sure to check the nutritional values.
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# ? Oct 15, 2015 13:16 |
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What are some pros and cons of owning two dogs vs one dog? What breeds or personalities go well together? I have a house now and about an acre of electric fenced land atm. If one decides to get a second dog as a buddy for a young dog, what age should I wait to? Note that I am not saying for sure whether or not I will get Pax a buddy, and if I do it would be like a year from now, but he likes other dogs and I think would really enjoy having a permanent friend (it would also give the cats a break tbh). I am currently transforming a finished attic into a dog proof area that Pax can stay in all day, but I don't want him to get too lonely
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 01:12 |
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I have two dogs, but the second just kind of happened and was not a planned addition to our household. We refer to him like an unplanned pregnancy. Pros: They can play with each other so I'm not their sole source of entertainment. I don't feel as bad leaving them home alone since they have each other to hang out with either. They have different enough personalities and interests and physical abilities that if I want to do something with a dog chances are one of the two would be into it. One is an old couch potato who is good for pets and snuggles and grumping at the neighborhood children and the other is a young active dog who's good for going out and doing stuff. Cons: Introducing a new dog to your house where your current dog has already established it as his house can be tough. My dogs didn't truly get along until I moved to a new house and they were on equal footing. They also consume twice the food, cost twice the vet bills, produce twice the poop and twice the hair. Plus walking them by yourself can be a pain in the rear end if one or both doesn't have good leash manners or one walks much faster than the other. Dog 1 is a cattledog, Dog 2 is a cattledog/aussie mix. Like I said we didn't purposely go out and get the second dog, he just kind of happened and conveniently was the same kind of dog as our other dog. I don't think any sets of breeds do particularly better or worse together as long as they also like other dogs and you don't go out and get a dog aggressive breed to be your dog's friend or something dumb like that. Personally I'd go for a dog about your current dog's size so they can play together without risking the big dog accidentally injuring the little dog, plus they can share more toys and stuff.
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 03:35 |
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Thanks for the input! Another quick question, do you think your dogs stay more active playing with each other than they would on their own? Pax Does like to eat, so any extra sources of exercise would be welcome
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 03:54 |
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Based on the past 3 months I agree with all of the pros Aquatic Giraffe listed. I'll add that as you will probably get a young, less trained dog than your current one you will most likely see a decrease in the first dogs obedience. Basically they will both learn from each other, good and bad.
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 08:23 |
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I clipped and filed my pups nails for the first time tonight with great success. He crashed hard after our nightly walk and moved in. I covered him with a bath towel so he couldn't see what I was doing if he woke up. I started slow and gentle making sure not to clip too much and he never budged. He'll wake up with a full pedicure and have no idea. My wife liked it so much she asked me to do hers. I offered her a treat and told her to kennel but she just glared at me.
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 08:46 |
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Ok real talk for a second. My dog was 100% house broken for a little there and now he's pissing all over the place even after I take him out. I know he can hold his bladder. Is it some form of defiance? 9 mo. Cocker And I don't mean like UTI accidental piss it's pretty deliberate. Spiteful little poo poo
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 10:38 |
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EXTREME INSERTION posted:Thanks for the input! Another quick question, do you think your dogs stay more active playing with each other than they would on their own? Pax Does like to eat, so any extra sources of exercise would be welcome Not really. They'll occasionally get the zoomies and chase each other around the house for 5-10 minutes but they spend most of the day sleeping.
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 18:10 |
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Ok real talk for a second. My dog was 100% house broken for a little there and now he's pissing all over the place even after I take him out. I know he can hold his bladder. Is it some form of defiance? 9 mo. Cocker Don't most dogs hit a defiant shithead phase as they approach 10-12 months?
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 18:54 |
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LeftistMuslimObama posted:Don't most dogs hit a defiant shithead phase as they approach 10-12 months? That's something that the trainer warned me about with Bailey. So basically dogs also have a span of time where they go "you're not my REAL dad!" before storming off to their room to write bad poetry.
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 19:04 |
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Ok real talk for a second. My dog was 100% house broken for a little there and now he's pissing all over the place even after I take him out. I know he can hold his bladder. Is it some form of defiance? 9 mo. Cocker Not likely defiance. Make sure he's healthy (UTIs, etc) and then go back to puppy housebreaking 101 with him. Gates. Crates. Frequent and predictable opportunities to pee, etc.
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# ? Oct 16, 2015 19:16 |
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So, Bailey's back from the vet and recovering from her surgery - if she doesn't seem to be in pain I shouldn't worry about giving her the pain pills, right? The anti-inflammatory stuff she's getting, I'm talking about the tramadol. The vet tech said that I didn't need to give it to her if she didn't seem to need it, I'm just not sure how the hell I can tell if she needs it or not.
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# ? Oct 18, 2015 02:43 |
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Honestly for at least the first couple days you should just give it 'round the clock as allowed. The goal in medicine is to address pain before it becomes an issue. Because then you get riled up, stressed, it affects your healing, etc. you should never hoard pain medications for "just when you need it" imo
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# ? Oct 18, 2015 04:41 |
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Honestly for at least the first couple days you should just give it 'round the clock as allowed. The goal in medicine is to address pain before it becomes an issue. Because then you get riled up, stressed, it affects your healing, etc. you should never hoard pain medications for "just when you need it" imo That does seem to be the general consensus with some other folks I've talked to, and I'll be following the prescription for the first several days following surgery - the question was more for later on in the week. That said, I'll probably keep on giving them to her until they run out, lord knows she's earned it. Besides, it's not like I'm going to be popping the stuff, might as well let her get full use out of it.
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# ? Oct 18, 2015 05:03 |
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e; nm
EllisD fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Oct 18, 2015 |
# ? Oct 18, 2015 05:09 |
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citybeatnik posted:That does seem to be the general consensus with some other folks I've talked to, and I'll be following the prescription for the first several days following surgery - the question was more for later on in the week. That said, I'll probably keep on giving them to her until they run out, lord knows she's earned it. I'd follow whatever your vet says about the meds the next week too. Better keep ahead of the pain, especially in our pets. Use it all, as directed, IMO.
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# ? Oct 19, 2015 13:33 |
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So I live in the UK, and was thinking about maybe getting a dog. It's a long way off, and I plan to do a lot more research before then, but I did have one simple question - what's a typical price for a popular breed (like, say, a Labrador) from a respectable, ethical breeder? Not that I was particularly planning on getting a Lab, I'm just trying to calibrate my expectations on what sort of price is expensive and what's (suspiciously) cheap, and they seemed like a good average.
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 03:25 |
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Pax is forgetting his training and jumped up on a lady Which is making me wonder why I took him to obedience school as a pup in the first place
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 15:15 |
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EXTREME INSERTION posted:Pax is forgetting his training and jumped up on a lady Because dog training is a lifelong process and if you're not actively working on a behaviour, it's degrading.
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 17:08 |
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a life less posted:Because dog training is a lifelong process and if you're not actively working on a behaviour, it's degrading. Yeah, I know, it's just really frustrating that he had it down pretty well and then suddenly "forgot" it over the course of like a week. I think I may need to sign up for a people greetings refresher as he gets older- I'm happy I have such a friendly and not-shy dog, but he just needs to learn not to get over excited when he greets people. I guess it may come with age a bit
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 17:17 |
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I think what also may have really messed the process up was that some of my friends and guests let him jump on them and sort of encourage it...which means that I need to stay one step ahead of him again and block them until he sits
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 17:19 |
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EXTREME INSERTION posted:I think what also may have really messed the process up was that some of my friends and guests let him jump on them and sort of encourage it...which means that I need to stay one step ahead of him again and block them until he sits that makes it really, really hard to break them of it. my friends all encourage my dogs to jump no matter how many times i ask them not to and it loving sucks Darth Walrus posted:So I live in the UK, and was thinking about maybe getting a dog. It's a long way off, and I plan to do a lot more research before then, but I did have one simple question - what's a typical price for a popular breed (like, say, a Labrador) from a respectable, ethical breeder? Not that I was particularly planning on getting a Lab, I'm just trying to calibrate my expectations on what sort of price is expensive and what's (suspiciously) cheap, and they seemed like a good average. i dunno about the uk but i'd expect to pay between $1200 - $2000 for a nicely bred puppy.
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 17:21 |
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One of my friends started feeding one of my dogs off of her fork at the dinner table.
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 18:00 |
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Pinch her and tell her "NO"
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 18:09 |
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I'm trying to teach Stan to greet people by sitting down first. Since he's a puppy he gets a lot of attention everywhere we go so when I see someone get all mushy and start to walk over I ask them if they can give him a sit command before giving him attention. It works most of the time but he's young so it isn't 100% yet. This way, he'll approach people in a non confrontational manner. Since he will be a big dog and capable of jumping as an adult, I want him to tackle this before he gets there. Not everyone is a dog person, especially large dogs so if he can approach people in a seated position, its better for everyone. Even more difficult than training dogs ... training humans. Oh and story from yesterday, we come across a husky puppy thats about Stans age. They let their dog approach and play without asking permission and invaded our space, only asking for permission after they were sniffing. It started off okay. They start playing and the husky grabs a hold of Stans lip, starts thrashing it and won't let him go. His owner instinctively said "oh they're just playing, hes fine" as blood was coming off the lip of my dog. At this point stan was on the ground trying to get away and crying. The husky wasn't letting up at all. Lip and ear had been bitten, the bite drew blood but nothing serious. I had to grab the collar of said husky and pull him off since the owner did nothing. Verman fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Oct 20, 2015 |
# ? Oct 20, 2015 21:30 |
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Lost two cats to cancer this year. Done my grieving, but really miss having a fuzzy buddy around the house. Thinking about getting another cat and maybe a Boston Terrier as I've heard they're good with cats. I'd be a first time dog owner, though I've watched my mom's shih-tzus several times and we got along fine. Any advice or input about Boston Terriers in particular, or puppy / kitten households generally?
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 22:34 |
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regulargonzalez posted:Lost two cats to cancer this year. Done my grieving, but really miss having a fuzzy buddy around the house. Thinking about getting another cat and maybe a Boston Terrier as I've heard they're good with cats. I'm sorry for your loss, that must be tough. Make sure you have high ground for the cats to escape to if they've had enough
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# ? Oct 20, 2015 22:50 |
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So two things: 1. My dog is a picky eater but my roommate's dog is not. Their food is separate, but his dog eats all of my dog's food before my dog can get to it. It doesn't help that my dog is a Yorkie and his dog is an English Mastiff, so his half cup is gone in a couple bites. Is there a way we can make sure only my dog can eat his food? I don't want him starving. 2. What the gently caress is my dog doing when he does this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6KMomk4oh4
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 17:02 |
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KillHour posted:So two things: I keep my dog out of my cat food by feeding the cats in their carriers. Same theory would work with yorkie in a small carrier/crate.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 17:44 |
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That's genius! I don't know if he would go in a carrier to eat... never had one for him. May as well give it a shot. Any idea what's up with him trying to smear his face on the floor?
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 17:52 |
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KillHour posted:Any idea what's up with him trying to smear his face on the floor? He's trying to "bury" the food in the blanket. Thor does that too. Probably your dog has learned that the other dog steals his food and is trying to protect it by burying it.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 18:06 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 16:12 |
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Huh. That explains why he keeps trying to get the bowl under the towel. Thanks.
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# ? Oct 21, 2015 18:47 |