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This might be something you already know, but are you checking alternator function by actually driving the vehicle at least 30mph or so? Or revving the engine up significantly? Many alternators do not produce a charge at idle.
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Oct 16, 2015 21:51
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Replace the alternator warning light bulb or at least clean up its socket. It needs to have a solid connection in order for the alternator to work. On old cars if the bulb is burnt out they won't charge at all. It should come on solid when you turn the key.
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Oct 16, 2015 23:05
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Leperflesh posted:This might be something you already know, but are you checking alternator function by actually driving the vehicle at least 30mph or so? Or revving the engine up significantly? Many alternators do not produce a charge at idle. tired revving the piss out of it. no change. rdb posted:Replace the alternator warning light bulb or at least clean up its socket. It needs to have a solid connection in order for the alternator to work. On old cars if the bulb is burnt out they won't charge at all. It should come on solid when you turn the key. it will come on bright about half the time when the key is on so i dont think its burnt out but i will check and clean the socket like you suggested. very frustrating becuse all my other cars are un insured or torn to pieces so this rusty poo poo box is my dd on my days off. also got the alt tested and it passed.
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Oct 16, 2015 23:25
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Check the rest of the circuit as well. It's got an intermittent connection somewhere.
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Oct 16, 2015 23:32
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rdb posted:Check the rest of the circuit as well. It's got an intermittent connection somewhere. just checked the bulb and connection and they seem fine. looking at what is visable of the wiring loom everything seems fine, wiggling wires has no effect and voltage seems to be getting to all the right places. as the truck is cranking the light will flick on and off and once running the light is hardly visable.
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Oct 17, 2015 01:22
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EightBit posted:Which part of the plugs is oiled? The threads and below.
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Oct 17, 2015 08:06
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Does anyone know of a good analysis of the Daimler-Chrysler merger, the good and the bad for both companies, from a non fanboy perspective?
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Oct 17, 2015 12:16
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99 integra ls b18b1 Anyone know why my front left brake system keeps eating pads? I've changed the rotor twice and the caliper once and every time it seems like all is good then it starts getting noisy and making a bumping sound that gets faster or slower depending on my speed, I look at the pads and their worn to poo poo.
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Oct 17, 2015 18:40
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Seized caliper. e: didn't notice you had replaced the caliper. Check anything you hosed up first, and if you haven't hosed anything up: bad caliper. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Oct 17, 2015 |
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Oct 17, 2015 21:00
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4000 Dollar Suit posted:Anyone know why my front left brake system keeps eating pads? I've changed the rotor twice and the caliper once Damaged flex line acting as a one way valve, bad replacement caliper or hosed ABS/master cylinder (in order of what to replace first.)
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Oct 17, 2015 21:00
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Maybe you got something jammed in your brake lines just right to act like a check valve? When was the last time you got a brake fluid flush?
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Oct 17, 2015 21:26
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Oct 17, 2015 22:16
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Looked at the 16 Tacoma today; what a beauty. I am seriously considering getting one, but before I pull the trigger, is there anything way better for that price range? I know the Chevy Colorado is $2k more, is that radically better than the Tacoma? I'm not set on the Tacoma either, if anyone knows of any other good reccomendations. I don't really need a truck, I just need the clearance for the snow. Dream would be something with rela good MPG. This is my reddit post: quote:I have to do some heavy, unplowed winter driving. Currently I drive a Ford Explorer, love the loving thing but it's dieing. So I need to upgrade. My budget is like ~20 to 35k. I was thinking one of the new Tacomas but I'm not sure if there's something better I can get for my money. I don't need a truck, but I need proper clearance to plow through accumulated snow.
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Oct 17, 2015 23:09
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I would say that, if it's snow that's your main trigger for needing ground clearance, an SUV with independent suspension will give you proportionately more actual clearance for ride height etc, and most likely an underside profile that's less likely to get hung up, while riding/handling better than live axles. How deep are we talking?
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Oct 17, 2015 23:39
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I woudl say at worst maybe a foot?
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Oct 17, 2015 23:44
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EssOEss posted:The threads and below. It's not good to have lots of oil there. Probably the head gasket for that kind of oil volume. Just do a complete rebuild on that engine if you really want to keep it.
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Oct 17, 2015 23:47
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Abu Dave posted:I woudl say at worst maybe a foot?
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Oct 18, 2015 00:15
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Extra posted:Is it probable a distributor with a built in RPM signal sending the wrong RPM to the ECU (symptom: tachometer reads lower than it should) could cause a lean condition resulting in detonation resulting in a knock like this? That actually sounds like the lashless gear spring timing the cams together has failed or not been assembled correctly.
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Oct 18, 2015 00:40
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Abu Dave posted:Looked at the 16 Tacoma today; what a beauty. I am seriously considering getting one, but before I pull the trigger, is there anything way better for that price range? I know the Chevy Colorado is $2k more, is that radically better than the Tacoma? The Tacoma is a great ride and has a bonus: the lowest depreciation of any vehicle you can buy new. It's a good choice.
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Oct 18, 2015 00:50
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Oct 18, 2015 01:27
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rdb posted:The Tacoma is a great ride and has a bonus: the lowest depreciation of any vehicle you can buy new. It's a good choice. That's good to hear. It was a really nice little truck when I test drove it. The only problem is the dealer doesn't have any of the basic stock model in, they just have the one with the tow package ugh.
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Oct 18, 2015 01:40
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An SUV with independent suspension might be the sensible, reliable choice for unplowed snow, but I've never had more fun in a vehicle than bombing through post-blizzard Michigan roads in a 4wd pickup
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Oct 18, 2015 02:32
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What are some examples of SUVs with indepdnandnt suspension?
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Oct 18, 2015 02:43
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Just changed the tranny oil on my Miata and forgot to put the crush washer back on the drain plug. I ran it while it was still up on jacks for a few minutes and didn't see any leaks. Put it out of my mind or do it over?
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Oct 18, 2015 03:48
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eberbs posted:just checked the bulb and connection and they seem fine. looking at what is visable of the wiring loom everything seems fine, wiggling wires has no effect and voltage seems to be getting to all the right places. as the truck is cranking the light will flick on and off and once running the light is hardly visable. fixed it. it was the alt I had in the truck. I must have fixed something along the way because the other alt didn't do anything before. the adventures never stop when your roll'en poo poo boxes.
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Oct 18, 2015 04:05
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Geoj posted:Damaged flex line acting as a one way valve, bad replacement caliper or hosed ABS/master cylinder (in order of what to replace first.) If it was the flex line doing that would it cause the pads to grip onto the rotors as if I were braking while not braking? I haven't noticed anything like that the rotors are always still rotate by hand, Also I had no problem compressing the piston, but I can look into it it's kind of out side of my very limited experience. when I got the Caliper I noticed the rubber gasket or whatever you wanna call it that surrounds the piston was kind of asymmetrical, it was only really noticeable when I compressed the piston all the way. my dad noticed it too but we went with it anyway figured it was a minor defect that shouldn't effect anything, but now I'm wondering. kid sinister posted:Maybe you got something jammed in your brake lines just right to act like a check valve? When was the last time you got a brake fluid flush? literally never, or maybe soon before I bought the car. I haven't had it very long. we did kinda bleed the brake line too much though when we did the caliper and ran the master cylinder dry so that was a whole thing. I feel like whatever old fluid was cycled out at least on that brake. fluid seemed to squirt out just fine however, but what do I know. runaway dog fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 04:10
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4000 Dollar Suit posted:If it was the flex line doing that would it cause the pads to grip onto the rotors as if I were braking while not braking? I haven't noticed anything like that the rotors are always still rotate by hand, Also I had no problem compressing the piston, but I can look into it it's kind of out side of my very limited experience. Something has to be causing that side to wear at an accelerated rate. If the flex line has internal damage it could allow the pad to continue to be squeezed against the rotor, just not as hard as it would if you were applying the brakes. Flex lines are a good start because they're relatively cheap, easy to replace and (depending on the age of the car) not a bad idea to periodically replace them. 4000 Dollar Suit posted:when I got the Caliper I noticed the rubber gasket or whatever you wanna call it that surrounds the piston was kind of asymmetrical, it was only really noticeable when I compressed the piston all the way. my dad noticed it too but we went with it anyway figured it was a minor defect that shouldn't effect anything, but now I'm wondering. That boot is just there to keep water and other debris from working its way between the piston and the cylinder wall. Unless its so bunched up that it could cause the piston to jam (highly unlikely) I wouldn't worry about it.
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Oct 18, 2015 04:25
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Abu Dave posted:I woudl say at worst maybe a foot? One thing to consider is that pickup trucks aren't actually that good as a winter vehicle. Unloaded they have a light rear end and can be a handful, even 4x4s. An SUV has more weight over the rear, and the already mentioned independent rear suspension. As for which SUV it's a hard one. The Forester is a drat tank but has only about 9" of ground clearance which might be an issue. The new Explorer actually has less than the Forester. If ground clearance is a big issue you might be best served by the 4runner TRD, which I believe has a good foot of clearance and likely an excellent AWD system. Otherwise if you think 9 inches is enough the Forester is really a great car/wagon/SUV thing and are amazing winter monsters up here in Canada. Edit: Looking at older Explorers they actually had less clearance than the new Forester pretty much across the board. I have no idea what year your current Explorer is but if you're doing well in it then I'd strongly consider a Forester. 8ender fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 06:23
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Old Explorers were not independent rear, which for some reason is something you're attributing to SUVs. Edit: 4Runner TRD Pro has 11.1", but by god you'll pay for it. A Wrangler has 10.6 (as long as you get the usual 32" tires, not the babby 29s), most of the likely Subarus are about 8.7". Etc. Source Godholio fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 07:57
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Two door Wranglers have such a short wheel base that any slipping could result in a spin if you aren't careful.
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Oct 18, 2015 08:18
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I have bought myself a manual tyre changing stand and I want to bolt it down to the concrete floor in my garage so that I can use it. However - I need to make it removable as my garage is not big enough. Its going to end up behind my project car spot where it will block the car in when in use. Can anybody suggest what sort of fixings I can drill into my floor that would support bolts being taken in and out. When not in use I can just leave short bolts in the holes to keep crud out. I have used expanding shield anchor bolts in concrete before like these  but these would be a pain in the arse to keep removing/reinstalling. Any suggestions for something better? It doesn't matter if it isn't totally flush when not in use as long as i can drive over it.
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Oct 18, 2015 15:07
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A quick Google search for "female concrete anchor" makes it seem like you need a "drop-in anchor". http://www.mcmaster.com/#drop-in-anchors/=6v41enc4pdifwm3ouk The setting tool seems to be just a machined rod and costs just a couple of bucks. Uthor fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 15:33
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Here's a question I don't think really needs it's own thread. The holidays are approaching and I want to get my dad some car-related gifts for his brand new Mazda 6 GT. I did a quick search but came up empty. What's a good electric buffer and air compressor that can be kept in a garage. There's a gas station pretty close by that gives free air, but their hose has been so bad it leaks more air that it puts out. That and it would be nice to just do it from home. The buffer is just to save time from doing it manually, I know buffers can be bad news in the wrong hands, but he's smart enough to know what he's doing. So, long story short, whats a good Electric Buffer and Air Compressor that wont break the bank?
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Oct 18, 2015 16:31
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Tomarse posted:I have bought myself a manual tyre changing stand and I want to bolt it down to the concrete floor in my garage so that I can use it. I'd just get a metal plate, bolt that to the floor, and then bolt the thing to the plate. An old flywheel would likely work well if you have one lying around. The Rev posted:Here's a question I don't think really needs it's own thread. I can't recommend a specific compressor, but something around 9CFM with a 5-10 gallon tank normally represents a good "price break" point for them. I would say get an oiled one, rather than an oilless type.
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Oct 18, 2015 18:43
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InitialDave posted:I'd just get a metal plate, bolt that to the floor, and then bolt the thing to the plate. An old flywheel would likely work well if you have one lying around. That there's a good idea.
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Oct 18, 2015 19:02
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The Rev posted:Here's a question I don't think really needs it's own thread. If he doesn't have air tools just get a tire inflator. Much more compact and can run off the car battery.
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Oct 18, 2015 19:24
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lwoodio posted:If he doesn't have air tools just get a tire inflator. Much more compact and can run off the car battery. I recently bought a digital one of those (automatically fills to the chosen pressure) for the first time and holy hell I wish I had bought one before.
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Oct 18, 2015 20:42
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spog posted:I recently bought a digital one of those (automatically fills to the chosen pressure) for the first time and holy hell I wish I had bought one before.
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Oct 18, 2015 21:02
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What do you guys think of the GMC Sierra? I was at a dealership looking at used ATSes when on a whim I saw a new Sierra sitting on the lot and started checking it out. I then found out that I'm part of GM's supplier pricing program and can get some ridiculous discount in the 10k range off the sticker price of the truck. Sometimes at work I need to carry standard sized pallets so being able to load them onto my own vehicle and carry them to customers would be a lot easier than begging someone to come along with me in a company van. Anyway when I was telling my friend about it he told me that GMC is absolute garbage. He's driven a lot of rentals and apparently domestics don't age that well after the first year. They just start falling apart with wear and tear and are generally very poorly made and I should stick with Japanese models instead. I've really been itching to try something different and a lot of the American cars I've seen are starting to appeal to me a lot more than the Japanese ones. Any thoughts? By the way I'm aware that in most cases these built in supplier/employee pricing deals tend to be a worse deal than negotiation. But I live in Canada so the discounts are smaller and the prices are higher. Also I don't think I can get any better than GM supplier discounts unless I come to the dealer at a time when they're super desperate to get the vehicle off the lot and are willing to dip into their holdbacks to do it.
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Oct 18, 2015 21:50
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I've never been a truck guy, but due to my job I'm in the market for a cheap truck, so I've been looking at old F150s, F250s and Rangers on Craigslist, because everything else is way too rich for my blood and I've never had a car payment and really don't want to start now I see mixed things about the first generation of EFI in Ford trucks online. Is it really a nightmare, or are dads just afraid of electrical? I don't have a problem with carburetors vs fuel injection really, but I'm just curious if there's a real reason to avoid either. Also with the F150s and F250s is my instinct to avoid the 302 in favor of the 300 or the 351w correct? Seems like it's outclassed for pulling/hauling. And is there any reason aside from size and economy to go with a first-gen Ranger over a contemporary F150 or F250? Also Ford 9" vs Ford 8.8" vs Dana 60 vs Sterling 10.25": I know the 9" is the gold standard but is there any reason to avoid the others?
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Oct 18, 2015 21:53
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