|
Uthor posted:A quick Google search for "female concrete anchor" makes it seem like you need a "drop-in anchor". Most of those look like they will have the same issue with repeated use as the expanding one I posted InitialDave posted:I'd just get a metal plate, bolt that to the floor, and then bolt the thing to the plate. An old flywheel would likely work well if you have one lying around. Great idea! I shall see if I can get hold of an offcut of steel chequer plate to bolt down. Thinking about it, I replaced a steel manhole cover when laying my patio a few years ago and I think the old cover may still be leaning up at the end of my garden. It might do if I customised it a bit. On the fixing something else to the floor approach, I could also use some small lengths of flat steel. Drill 2 holes in the ends and fix them down with 2 permanent anchors, and then weld a captive nut in the middle. I could even drill below the captive nut to recess it below the steel or to take the end of a bolt... Tomarse fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Oct 18, 2015 |
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 22:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 23:59 |
|
|
My budget is about 30k so I can't afford a Forrester or a Explorer as much as i'd love to. My SUV options are basicaly the Rav4, the CR-V or a Cherokee I currently ahve a 02 Explorer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 22:37
|
|
|
Abu Dave posted:My budget is about 30k so I can't afford a Forrester or a Explorer as much as i'd love to. My SUV options are basicaly the Rav4, the CR-V or a Cherokee I currently ahve a 02 Explorer. The Forester starts at under 23k though?...
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 22:56
|
|
|
I forgot about that. The dealer i'm going thorugh has a used 2015 one, i'll check it out.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2015 23:01
|
|
|
Kraftwerk posted:Anyway when I was telling my friend about it he told me that GMC is absolute garbage. He's driven a lot of rentals and apparently domestics don't age that well after the first year. They just start falling apart with wear and tear and are generally very poorly made and I should stick with Japanese models instead. Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Oct 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 00:29
|
|
|
SLAMMYsosa posted:I've never been a truck guy, but due to my job I'm in the market for a cheap truck, so I've been looking at old F150s, F250s and Rangers on Craigslist, because everything else is way too rich for my blood and I've never had a car payment and really don't want to start now I have heard so many people say that the 300 straight 6 in the F-150 is quite a tank and is reliable as hell. Last year was 1996. Might want to look for something 96 and up just because it's OBD2 and can be scanned easily with a cheap scan tool. Some strange part of me wants a real stripper 4 cylinder Ranger with a 5 speed and crank windows. The simplicity is appealing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 01:52
|
|
|
Neither of my vehicles has power windows, locks, anything. Pros and cons.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 02:07
|
|
|
spog posted:I recently bought a digital one of those (automatically fills to the chosen pressure) for the first time and holy hell I wish I had bought one before. Got a Link/Name? Thanks in Advance!
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
HID update:   Checked the bulb and I have white goo like toothpaste on one side. The only thing I can think of it being is wax, but the assembly seems pretty well sealed. WTH?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 03:01
|
|
|
Two part question: A) Is there anything I could use to seal off one of the suspected sources of an oil leak that wouldn't end up melted into it permanently? B) I have a Fumoto valve. When I first put it on last oil change, it was leaking slightly. Maybe a 3" puddle before it stopped every time I drove. It stopped leaking at some point before I changed the oil today. Now it started leaking oil again, big time. I didn't realize how much until I came back to the driveway tonight and I've got a foot wide puddle where I was parked. What could be causing that? I'm pretty much accepting I'll need to change the oil again, and go back to the plug and washer for now. E: I found a pan and put that underneath it, at least. Would it be a bad idea to feed the oil back in even though it only has 7 miles on it? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Oct 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 03:53
|
|
|
blk posted:HID update: That is what an HID bulb looks like after it's gone to heaven (or hell if you found it in an incandescent headlight).
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 04:10
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:That is what an HID bulb looks like after it's gone to heaven (or hell if you found it in an incandescent headlight). How does the goo generate on the outside?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 06:09
|
|
|
Heat, the chemicals inside of it, and poo poo that was around it when it popped. It's not plain jane glass. Or, you know... 
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 06:19
|
|
|
Hey AI, I'm a car newbie who is just now responsible for a car for the first time. I want a sanity check on what I'm doing, and maybe buying. I have a 2004 Infiniti I35 that I got from a relative about 6 months ago. I lived with the person that owned the car most of its existence so I know its never had any major problems, but I don't know if its had minor things fixed. The sticker on the windshield said I was ~1000 miles overdue for an oil change, and I don't know anything about oil or the maintenance status of the car in general, so I went to Firestone and had them do a Complete Vehicle Inspection in addition to the oil. The report they gave me is mostly good, but it did suggest fixing a few things that I want to run by you all. 1) Power steering and Dive belts both cracked. They are pretty cheap at $130 total to replace, so why not. 2) Tires from 2008, one with lots of cracking. Treads 4 to 5 32nds. A little more expensive at $80/tire, but still seems like a good idea to replace. 3) The brake rotors are very rusted. The technician said they would chew up the brake pads faster or something? My pads are all current at 4.5 or 5 mm. The shoes are all 2mm. The front rotors are 900-910. The back drums are 330-335. The cost was estimated at $550 to replace pads and rotors. This is the one I'm the least sure if I should do it. edit: They both feel and sound find while braking btw. Xenoborg fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Oct 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 15:14
|
|
|
1-Autozone's website seems to imply that you only have one serpentine belt, and it runs about $21 for a good brand (Gates is good). 2-Cracking is bad. $80 a tire is dirt loving cheap. I'm actually a little concerned about the tires you're looking at, with such a low price. 3-I'm confused. Do you have rear discs or drums? I thought they were all discs. You should be able to actually LOOK AT your rotors to see if they're rusty...and if it's rained or been humid they almost certainly will have surface rust which does absolutely nothing. Unless they're pitted and totally trashed, there's no problem. Surface rust is normal (go look at any new car at the dealership, if it's outside in the weather, the rotors look like hell). It'll get wiped away the first time you hit a red light. 4-I don't know what your specs mean...but $550 for pads and rotors. Spent 2 minutes on youtube and google. There's probably a video or at least a post somewhere showing step-by-step instructions of how to do the brakes. It'll probably cost <150 in parts (and tools) to DIY. Your shop sucks. I'd replace the tires soon, and do the brakes/belt over the Thanksgiving weekend. Godholio fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Oct 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 16:04
|
|
|
The Rev posted:Got a Link/Name? Thanks in Advance! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automo...l+tyre+inflator Probably find something similar in your country Good bits: Preset pressure mode with automatic cut off, allows you to easily store your car tyre pressure Red light for SOS and white light for night time illumination, helping you to inflate your tyre on the roadside in the dark Includes a handy storage case, allowing you to safely store the compressor in your boot when not in use Long cable Not so good: Screw connector instead of thumb lever (not a major hassle) Just be aware that these things aren't meant for fully inflating all 5 tyres in a single session. It will take ages and it will probably hit the thermal cut-off. But for topping off tyres by a few PSI, brilliant.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 16:46
|
|
|
Godholio posted:1-Autozone's website seems to imply that you only have one serpentine belt, and it runs about $21 for a good brand (Gates is good). Talked to a coworker who used to work as a mechanic and he said mostly the same thing. I think I'm going to do the belt and tires now and not worry about the brakes until they start acting up. He also mentioned the surface rust vs pitting thing which I'll look into. I can tell you that the car sat outside very rarely used in St. Louis weather 8 months of the year for 5 years. I didn't bring it to school with me and used it just over Christmas and summer. Looking up the part numbers on Autozone for their suggested replacements they are a good bit cheaper. 5040305 belt they say 30 vs 22 and 5060431 they say 50 vs 19. Similarly the 31306 and 31134 brake rotors are about half the price. Is this something you can bring up to a shop or is it just a hidden cost of having them do it in addition to labor charges.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 16:56
|
|
|
It's mostly labor, and unless you have a friend working there, there's a markup on parts.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 17:10
|
|
|
Ok thats fine. The markup on the belts isnt that bad, and I'm probably not doing the rotors anyway. The only question I have left is what tires should I get. Not really sure where to start as there are hundreds of options on Discount Tire or Firestone's site. Do we have a tire buying guide anywhere? The Primewell Valera Sport AS is what they recommended. I'm not sure if that's the exact right one as on their estimate its $75 and those are $143.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 17:34
|
|
|
Xenoborg posted:The only question I have left is what tires should I get. Not really sure where to start as there are hundreds of options on Discount Tire or Firestone's site. Do we have a tire buying guide anywhere? Go to Tire Rack, filter by price, sort by rating, cross shop Discount Tire, probably buy the Continental DWSs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 17:43
|
|
|
Xenoborg posted:Ok thats fine. The markup on the belts isnt that bad, and I'm probably not doing the rotors anyway. They probably suggested the Primewell Valera Touring II tires for $69.99 as the bottom end - but these actually aren't bad. You'll get a bit more life out of them than the Sport AS - I'd expect the sport to not last more than 30k. They'll be quieter and better in the snow or rain too. The Affinity Touring lasts much longer - 70k warranty but some people get even more out of them. $126 is a LOT more to pay for that. There's a coupon on retailmenot for buy 3 get one free with a free alignment check. Might be the way to go honestly because when they sell you tires, they'll also want to sell you an alignment. That free alignment check is something you have to ask for - but it's awesome because it just checks if you even need to buy it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 18:02
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Go to Tire Rack, filter by price, sort by rating, cross shop Discount Tire, probably buy the Continental DWSs. DWSs are a great all season tire I recommend but I hear they are EOL now and being replaced with a new model, and I don't know what they're called. A competitor is whatever the latest version of the Bridgestone Potenza RE970as is. I would recommend against getting the cheapest tire available. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...560&tireIndex=0 Here are some sorted by rating. It has winter tires included in the mix so figure out how to take those out or just scroll past them. edit: I guess the new DWS is just called DWS 06 
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 21:10
|
|
|
Primewell is a Chinese import sold by Firestone. Tires are THE most important safety item on your vehicle. Almost everything I've found about that brand online has either been someone asking about them (not a good sign) or someone complaining about them (a worse sign).
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 22:16
|
|
|
My sister has a lovely old 2000 Daewoo Matiz It has just failed its MOT on the emissions being too high (among other things). My dad has it and says he has looked at it and replaced a couple of bits of split pipe that connected around the intake manifold (but he is not sure what they are) Plugs and filter were new last year apparently (when it was slightly over on emissions). He has had the plugs out today and they are all evenly sooty but not knackered. He is bringing it round to my house tomorrow afternoon so I can weld a small patch on and because I have an old gunsons gastester he can try to use on it. It is OBD1 so we cant easily read any codes off it. It doesn't have an engine management light on. nor has my sister reported it ever having one. Does anybody have any suggestions? assuming it could be a temp sensor playing up or the lambda sensor (which was new a couple of years ago) if it wasn't the pipework he has already fixed. Is there any way to test this other than just swapping stuff out and crossing fingers? I cant seem to find any way of reading codes off its lovely old OBD system.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 22:53
|
|
|
Exactly what failed on the emissions test? The specifics matter.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 23:12
|
|
|
Tomarse posted:Does anybody have any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 23:14
|
|
|
I'll find out tomorrow if it failed on CO or HC's and by how much. Was assuming both readings were over. Lots of googling seems to say I can read any stored codes off it by shorting 2 pins on the OBD1 connector and counting the flashes. Will try that. have also found a manual for it that contains the code meanings and the correct resistance readings of sensors including the temp sensors. Dave - my sister isn't a slow driver and she's driven me in my Aygo a few times recently so I knows she knows how to drive a 3cyl properly - so I suspect it gets quite a few revs in normal driving and it shouldn't need that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 23:34
|
|
|
I recently picked up a '73 Chevy C10 and it's had an issue stalling once it's stopped/bogging under heavy load. I've been checking for vacuum leaks and messing with the carbs and found this behind the carbs on the passenger side: When I used some smoke to test for leaks some came out of this area, moving some cables lead me to this and it doesn't look correct in any way. This is at the back end of the engine bay, between the valve cover and carbs on the passenger side. When idling the pin(center of the triangle of screws there) bounces up and down, if I add some gas it pushes out. From what I can tell this is a chunk of an EGR valve, but I have no idea. Can someone identify what this is and what should be on the mount next to it?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2015 23:58
|
|
|
Tacoma guys/gals, Is this too much frame rust? I'm leaning towards "hell yeah it is, stay the gently caress away" but want a more educated opinion (2001 tacoma 2.4l 5spd):        
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 01:45
|
|
|
SLAMMYsosa posted:I've never been a truck guy, but due to my job I'm in the market for a cheap truck, so I've been looking at old F150s, F250s and Rangers on Craigslist, because everything else is way too rich for my blood and I've never had a car payment and really don't want to start now I drive a 1988 F150, the second year for EFI. From what I've heard, most of the problems were with the '87s that were ironed out in later models. Since I bought it, I've had to replace just about every sensor and half of the connectors, which I think is pretty reasonable for a 27 year old vehicle. After all that work, it's pretty drat solid. I would be willing to bet that all the complaints from those old farts could be solved by an hour, a can of Deoxit and another of dielectric grease to clean out all those connections. Even though it's OBD1, the computer has still been useful diagnosing problems. I got the 302, but I can't comment on pulling since I don't use mine for that. I can say that the previous owners used it as a farm truck, so it was pulling farm equipment all over fields. Not bad considering it isn't a 4x4. A plus over the Ranger would be that the F series was the best selling vehicle for ages, so you shouldn't have any problems finding spare parts from salvage yards. Also, if you're looking up first generation EFI Ford trucks, keep in mind that those are old enough to need a R134 conversion, if not melting to death is your thing. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Oct 20, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 02:46
|
|
|
Buying cheap brake parts over the internet, do or don't? Rotors and pads, shipping from NJ-WA is only $25 from carid.com. Never heard of the site or the Centric brand but it's $100 cheaper than the oriellys for everything. Cons are shipping them back if I need to return them and 90 day vs. lifetime warranty. I'm leaning towards the local store but maybe I'm being paranoid. Pad materials are ceramic all around from both and rotors are all nonsense free. Car is 2008 VW Rabbit fwiw.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 16:31
|
|
|
Buying brakes for a volkswagen is usually like rolling the dice anyway - they use so many different diameter rotors, styles of pads, mid-year changes. Might be better to buy them locally if they turn out to be wrong.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 18:22
|
|
|
Every time I try to start my car the alarm goes off. I've got a 95 Civic del Sol and the previous owner put in an aftermarket remote start/door lock. However, the car's battery died and I lost the key fob to the remote starter. According to Google, it sounds like what I have to do is buy and program a key fob, but I don't know what brand and I don't know what the code is. Also, what documentation do I need (and do I need to show my driver's license, which I lost in Vegas a year ago)? I would need to go and find every single sheet of paper individually so I'd like to get everything done in one shot. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 19:10
|
|
|
look under the dash and you'll find a box with a number on it.. you'll need that, google the model and you'll get the fobs. or you can just remove the aftermarket system since it sounds like you don't use it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 19:20
|
|
|
Ooooh, is removing it something I can do with, like, my hands in a parking lot at work? And if it is, is replacing it something I can do with my hands? Yeah I'll google the model number, I didn't know where to find out what kind of system I had.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 19:23
|
|
|
it is posted:Ooooh, is removing it something I can do with, like, my hands in a parking lot at work? And if it is, is replacing it something I can do with my hands?
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 19:28
|
|
|
wilfredmerriweathr posted:Tacoma guys/gals, That looks like its surface rust and I would drive it as is. It's not unsafe, yet. I don't see any new holes or chunks falling off. However, it is far too rusted to be considered good, and it's only going to get worse as time goes on. The recall expired years ago. I would pass on that particular truck and let it be someone else's worry. Does the current owner know if the frame has been replaced?
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 19:34
|
|
|
She is a college student and has only owned it a year, bought it from the dealer after the first owner traded it in. So i'm guessing no frame replacement as I doubt the dealer would have done it out of their own volition. It's pretty low miles, 160k, but I want it to last 5+ years and it will be a ski trip vehicle so I really don't want to take a chance. I'm assuming the warranty period is either up or will be up shortly on the frame. It has a pretty rad couch that converts into a bed in the back, complete with a topper that has a skylight. She also wants like 6-7k at a minimum and I just can't pay that if the frame might rust in two in a few years. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Oct 20, 2015 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 19:41
|
|
|
160k miles is not "pretty low miles" unless we're talking about a big rig truck, here.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 19:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 23:59 |
|
|
6k sounds like an OK deal for it except for the rusty bits. Tires look good, and a 4x4 taco always holds value. 160k miles is like halfway done on a Tacoma. Somewhere near me there is a t100 with over a million miles on its original engine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2015 19:58
|
|