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Am I insane for wanting to "Rally-out" my '13 WRX? I could care less for track day to be honest, and it would be nice to have a semblance of ground clearance since I live on a dirt road and I'm always going to out of the way places to fish. I'm thinking lift 3" or so, skid plates, light bar, flaps, etc. I want to do it right though.
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Oct 27, 2015 00:11
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Opinion, maybe just skid plates for now and rally cross it. A lift that high would do more harm than good to an older wrx like mine (04). I've been rally coasting the poo poo out of mine with no mods. I need skid plates and new shocks.
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Oct 27, 2015 02:53
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FogHelmut posted:My brother in law has a Forester XT with only 10,000 miles on it. It "dropped a valve" and pretty much blew up the engine. SOA gave them an engine replacement, but they were without the car for over a month, with the car in a shop 4 hours away. So now they have it back and the engine races and the transmission is jerky. The shop told them it was the ECM needed to get used to the new engine. This sounds pretty bizarre, and its still driving like poo poo a week later. They're taking it to a local dealer to have it looked at. Does any of this sound like it makes sense? I would think you plug an engine in there and it should run just fine. Update on this saga - they were not without the car for over a month for the engine replacement. It was 29 days exactly. Something about 30 consecutive days being the grounds for the lemon law. It was then at another dealer for the jerky transmission for another 20 something days. It is still having problems. They have contacted a lawyer.
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Oct 27, 2015 06:24
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Farking Bastage posted:Am I insane for wanting to "Rally-out" my '13 WRX? I could care less for track day to be honest, and it would be nice to have a semblance of ground clearance since I live on a dirt road and I'm always going to out of the way places to fish. I'm thinking lift 3" or so, skid plates, light bar, flaps, etc. I want to do it right though. 3" is a LOT of lift, that's not rally, that's off-road. You have to sacrifice quite a lot to go that high. I'm not sure on the newer WRXs how cross-compatible everything is, but I'd guess you could probably get the suspension spacing components from an XV crosstrek and use that. I'm guessing you'd get maybe 1-1.5" from that? If you really want to "rally" it out, you just want to get lots of suspension travel without significant lift. They jack the SRTUSA car way up for photo shoots, but when it's racing, you'll notice it's sitting as close to the ground as the road type allows.  However, thing has travel for days - I don't even know how much, probably 12". For what you describe you want to do, I'll plug him again though, cause this is kinda his thing: http://www.gorillaoffroadcompany.com/product-detail.cfm/prd_key/51 http://www.gorillaoffroadcompany.com/product-detail.cfm/prd_key/27
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Oct 27, 2015 14:38
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^^ That is perfect. I'm about to get he front bumper cover replaced because it is so low. Any little bit will help.
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Oct 27, 2015 17:05
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Stupid question time. I'm now running a Cobb catted down pipe, decayed up pipe, spt intake, and factory cat back on my 04 wrx. This seems roughly "stage 2". Currently I'm pegging my wide band rich when it's pulling. I'm pretty sure I have a leak in my up pipe but I don't think that would cause this. So, 1. If any one has a base map, if love to see it to compare mine. 2, I think I'm going to clean my maf and work on some scaling tuning. Oh and I'm using open tuning.
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Oct 27, 2015 20:05
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Farking Bastage posted:Am I insane for wanting to "Rally-out" my '13 WRX? I could care less for track day to be honest, and it would be nice to have a semblance of ground clearance since I live on a dirt road and I'm always going to out of the way places to fish. I'm thinking lift 3" or so, skid plates, light bar, flaps, etc. I want to do it right though. Just get a Forester XT and be done with it. Rally cars actually dont get lifted, they get armoured.
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Oct 27, 2015 22:29
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Hey Jamal, do you sell Enkeis?
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Oct 28, 2015 17:14
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Yes, although the distributor doesn't keep many in stock. What model/size?
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Oct 28, 2015 18:34
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Shot you an email.
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Oct 28, 2015 18:44
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Could somebody explain 'spark blowout' to me? I see it mentioned once in a while on Evo forums with high boost applications. I can not for the life of me find a good answer on what it is exactly. It sounds like failure to produce ignition, but how would you know when it's occurring? This might not be the most appropriate place for this question but you guys seem really knowledgeable about turbo setups.
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Oct 29, 2015 02:47
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ROFLburger posted:Could somebody explain 'spark blowout' to me? I see it mentioned once in a while on Evo forums with high boost applications. I can not for the life of me find a good answer on what it is exactly. It sounds like failure to produce ignition, but how would you know when it's occurring? This might not be the most appropriate place for this question but you guys seem really knowledgeable about turbo setups. I can try, but I'm sure I won't get it quite right. Under higher compression/boost, it's harder to maintain an arc across the plug terminal. I believe this is because of heat and exposed surface to the hot air. "Colder" spark plugs are less sensitive to heat, and as a result are more sensitive to fouling from not getting hot enough to burn off carbon. So you have to get the proper design for the conditions you have.
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Oct 29, 2015 04:13
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The wife drives a 05 Forester we bought new and has 280,000km, basically the only things that have gone wrong is a flat tyre and it needed a new thermostat awhile ago. It's probably lasted so well since I don't usually drive it, something to be said for buying a car that was owned by a lady I guess? Now the drivers window won't work. Any way of telling if it's the switchblock or something inside the door?
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Oct 29, 2015 12:44
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Fat Jesus posted:The wife drives a 05 Forester we bought new and has 280,000km, basically the only things that have gone wrong is a flat tyre and it needed a new thermostat awhile ago. It's probably lasted so well since I don't usually drive it, something to be said for buying a car that was owned by a lady I guess? Now the drivers window won't work. Any way of telling if it's the switchblock or something inside the door? please don't be insulted... have you checked fuses? after that i'd try replacing the switch.
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Oct 29, 2015 23:35
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mudstone posted:please don't be insulted... have you checked fuses? after that i'd try replacing the switch. I actually haven't thought of that since I'm assuming it wouldn't have a separate fuse for each window, the others work fine. I'll have a look, thanks. edit- She said there was a delay between pressing the switch and it working, press switch to wind window down - nothing - then after 3-5 seconds it would work, then after a few days to that it just wouldn't go down anymore. Fat Jesus fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Oct 30, 2015 |
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Oct 30, 2015 02:26
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I recently relocated to California, and I want to make some trips up to the mountains this winter. I'm reading through the CA DOT website and looking at their rules for chain controls - Requirement One (R1): Chains, traction devices or snow tires are required on the drive axle of all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles. Requirement Two (R2): Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles with snow-tread tires on all four wheels. (NOTE: Four wheel/all wheel drive vehicles must carry traction devices in chain control areas.) Requirement Three (R3): Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles, no exceptions. "Snow tread tires" are basically all-seasons or better, which is fine or whatever, but is a little surprising to me as not all all-seasons are created equal. For example, the stock Yokohama tires that came with my Impreza were some of the scariest tires I've driven on in the snow in any type of vehicle. I've driven my whole life in the Northeast and a little snow doesn't bother me, but I genuinely did not feel safe as the traction control did it's best to keep the car on the road. That being said, I very soon switched to set of Continentals which are fantastic and don't slide a bit. Hill starts, pushing through snow up to the bumper, you name it, no problem. So to get to my point, I don't really see any situation where I would actually use tire chains, as I understand that a road is more likely to be closed in California before it reaches R3 levels. But the state still requires you to carry chains in your car in the mountain regions from November to April, and they do have checkpoints when chain control conditions are in effect. The owner's manual for my Impreza states - "Tire chains cannot be used on your vehicle because of the lack of clearance between the tires and vehicle body." Okay, fine, I wont have to use them. But since I do have to carry them, Does anyone have experience with this? What type of chains should I bother getting? Should I have a set for all four tires?
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Oct 31, 2015 19:25
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You are technically required to carry chains regardless, but I dunno that that is enforced.
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Oct 31, 2015 19:36
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Speaking of snow tires, I have a quick question: I have a '15 BRZ. I have a leftover set of Enkei EKM3's from my old LGT and I'm going to put some snow tires on them and use them in the winter. I'm planning on getting Blizzak WS80's, if anyone has any input on those. However my question is regarding the TPMS sensors. The Enkei's have sensors already. When I swap the wheels for the winter, am I going to have to have the TPMS sensors reinitialized from the factory ones, or will they work automatically? I got them from Tirerack in '10 if that matters. If they have to be reinitialized, will that have to be done at the dealer, or will I be able to get the tire place to do it?
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Oct 31, 2015 19:46
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FogHelmut posted:
Are you in the norcal mountains? CalDOT and NVDOT are usually on the ball when it comes to taking care of the roads, so you'll rarely see conditions requiring a m+s tire or even chains. I think I've only seen R3 conditions near Donner Pass, but those days are once a season rare. If you really want to get a set, look into cable chains, but doublecheck your clearances around the tire.
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Oct 31, 2015 20:14
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McSpatula posted:Are you in the norcal mountains? CalDOT and NVDOT are usually on the ball when it comes to taking care of the roads, so you'll rarely see conditions requiring a m+s tire or even chains. I think I've only seen R3 conditions near Donner Pass, but those days are once a season rare. I'm in Southern California, I'll be making regular trips up to Big Bear, and one or two to Mammoth. I don't expect to use them, but as far as keeping something in the car due to the rules, I'm pretty  about getting something that will work well.Also I went half a size up on these tires, probably not as much clearance as stock.
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Oct 31, 2015 20:21
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Unless you choose to make the trips on whiteout days, you'll be fine with whatever you have now -- even if that's a summer tire. I wouldn't stress over it.
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Oct 31, 2015 20:47
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SF forester owners! What's your mileage like? I'm getting ~12.6 l/100km or 18mpg combined 50/50 hwy/city. Automatic trans. Sounds normal? I was expecting closer to ~10 l/100 km. EJ251/EJ25D hybrid motor, New plugs, New air filter, no codes.
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Oct 31, 2015 21:14
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Big bear doesn't care about carrying chains with awd and snows. Mammoth, I dunno.
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Nov 1, 2015 05:05
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AFewBricksShy posted:Speaking of snow tires, I have a quick question:
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Nov 1, 2015 05:42
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Fat Jesus posted:I actually haven't thought of that since I'm assuming it wouldn't have a separate fuse for each window, the others work fine. I'll have a look, thanks. That's not a fuse - It's a switch contact either dirty or burnt out. Best test is to swap a switch around, if that works it's the switch.
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Nov 1, 2015 11:22
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So one of my friends is thinking about picking up a 2007 Subaru Legacy GT with the 2.5 turbo(85k miles), the turbo has already been replaced ( we havent gone to look at the car yet). Are there any gotchas on these cars besides the turbo that we should look for?
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Nov 1, 2015 13:27
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FogHelmut posted:I'm in Southern California, I'll be making regular trips up to Big Bear, and one or two to Mammoth. I've lived in Mammoth for over 6 years now with a Subaru. I can tell you that I've never been checked for chains ever. I have heard people say they were checked at the bottom of sherwin grade and were turned around if they couldn't show CHP their chains whether they fit or not. In the last 6 years I've never once taken my chains out of the box with M+S winter tires on my old outback. Chains are readily available down in Bishop so you can always get them on the drive up. I just installed my new winter tires and my new Yakima box on my Outback yesterday. Just steel rims with BIizzak WS80s.  Edit: Haven't driven them on snow yet, so I can't comment, but they look meatier than the tires I had on my old outback (firestone winterforce) and I didnt bother with TPMS sensors. I'll stare at the light for the next 6 months... perabyte fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Nov 1, 2015 |
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Nov 1, 2015 16:47
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sw0cb posted:So one of my friends is thinking about picking up a 2007 Subaru Legacy GT with the 2.5 turbo(85k miles), the turbo has already been replaced ( we havent gone to look at the car yet). Are there any gotchas on these cars besides the turbo that we should look for? The ringlands go. Get a leakdown.
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Nov 1, 2015 17:44
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sw0cb posted:So one of my friends is thinking about picking up a 2007 Subaru Legacy GT with the 2.5 turbo(85k miles), the turbo has already been replaced ( we havent gone to look at the car yet). Are there any gotchas on these cars besides the turbo that we should look for? Find out why it was replaced. If it was oil starved from the banjo filter clogging, you'd probably want to do a used oil analysis on the motor. If the bearings on the turbo failed, you definitely want to - because it probably contaminated. If it was replaced early it's probably OK, but it's hard to test for oil contamination that will lead to early bearing failure any other way. For anyone following along with the history of mine - shop tore down the block, and said it appears that a single main bearing failed due to oil starvation. He said it's very strange and he's never seen one like this, said no other bearings showed even minor signs of low oil wear or contamination. He suspected it was actually just a faulty bearing, or that when one of the shops who did an oil change on it did it, they started it once when it was just a little too low on oil and not primed yet. On the upside, he said it's in such good condition they're just going to do the one bearing and crank and he said it's otherwise in perfect shape.
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Nov 1, 2015 18:39
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I recently had my 6MT 08 2.5t Liberty/legacy serviced and when I got it back I noticed a distinct "pshhhhh" waste gate sound when I let off the throttle. I am sure it wasn't there when I dropped it off. I actually dont mind it, its very subtle however was under the impression that Subaru turbo engines plumb the waste gate into the intake from the factory. I couldnt see anything untoward under the hood. Will this cause problems or will the AFM adjust to it?
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Nov 2, 2015 08:38
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sw0cb posted:So one of my friends is thinking about picking up a 2007 Subaru Legacy GT with the 2.5 turbo(85k miles), the turbo has already been replaced ( we havent gone to look at the car yet). Are there any gotchas on these cars besides the turbo that we should look for? My 08's clutch went around 90k.
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Nov 2, 2015 11:20
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Got a new set of feet on my WRX. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...tandard%20Model Due to a little work sharing agreement with a local shop, I got the installation for free in exchange for the bill from a 20 minute service call I was about to send them and BAM. $350 set of W-rated tires.
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Nov 3, 2015 19:21
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So I have a friend at work with an 05 Impreza 2.5RS 4 door auto. He just found out the headgaskets are in the weeping stage need to be replaced. Was quoted at the dealer for $1200 just for the gaskets but he wants out of it now. How hard are these to change to the metallic ones by a shade tree (me) mechanic? I have done the top end on a Mazda pickup, Toyota pickup and an accord timing belt before. I would also do timing belt, wp, etc. I don't have the space to pull the engine, so I would try to do in place. His car is pretty much stock with a new headunit, and 5k on a set Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3s. KBB says $3.5k trade-in, $4.8 private sell. Thinking of offering $3k cash now. My plan would be to fix, drive it for a year, then give it to my daughter when she graduates next year.
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Nov 3, 2015 21:20
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It'll be just like any other head gasket job, except you'll need the hands of a triple-jointed child. It's just a very tight squeeze without pulling the block.
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Nov 3, 2015 21:28
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Nice thing is that an sohc which makes it a lot easier. Don't have to pull out the cams to remove the heads. Getting everything clean is going to be tougher as is actually getting the heads/bolts out then in. I think you might have to take the block off the motor mounts and tilt/lift it slightly. Also get valve cover gaskets and the spark plug seal things.
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Nov 3, 2015 21:34
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drat, looks like the dealer offered him $4k in trade and is letting him pull the stereo. Of course he is buying a '16, that probably greased the wheels a bit.
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Nov 4, 2015 02:04
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My dearest Flannel Havers - recently I got to thinking about joining the cult of the boxer by swapping out a 2014 Mazda 3 for a 2014 Subaru Outback with a 6-speed manual. I took the advice of a bunch of folks at work that told me to buy "an automatic with a really good sound system" when I moved into Atlanta, because the traffic down here is hilariously bad. That said, I've owned an automatic car for roughly 8 months and I've basically come to regret it, because it's hilariously, mind-fuckingly boring to drive and makes me feel like I should be asleep at the wheel. Originally, the plan was to snag a Toyota 4Runner SUV because if I was going to be bored, I might as well be functionally bored with a vehicle that can tow The Fun Toy™, which is an Italian motorcycle. This way if the fucker decides to grenade itself 50 miles from home, I can convince the girlfriend to drive out and grab me, then come back to retrieve it. Little did I realize that Subaru actually offers a good car that can tow in the Outback, and I was thrilled to see that it comes with a 6-speed manual. Does anyone own a 6-speed manual Outback/Legacy? The opinions on other forums regarding the manual split equally between people panning it and people swearing by it. However, these are "normal" automotive forums and pretty much everything they say is bullshit, so here's hoping someone in AI can give a straight review on the thing. My main concern is that other forums claim the first gear is extremely tall and makes starting out a bitch. They then tell you to go with a CVT, but the CVT is the devil's transmission and I will not hear such things. Is the 6MT good, and is it actually acceptable to tow light loads (<1000 lb)?
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Nov 4, 2015 02:48
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I own a 2014 6-speed Outback. I haven't towed anything with it though. The first gear is longer and sometimes going between 1st and 2nd gear can be difficult. Travel between the gears is really long. The manual is the base model so there's no bells and whistles. It basically looks like a car from the mid-2000's. There's barely any tech in it. There's a radio and bluetooth blows. My phone has a lot of trouble connecting to it. The ride and everything is nice. Not quite sure how common a used manual is. The ride is fine and there's plenty of space. I live in the Midwest so the AWD helps out. I would honestly just keep your car. You'll probably lose some money trading it in. If you really need a manual, go try a 5-speed Impreza, 6-speed Forester, or 6-speed Mazda 3. They're all still available new.
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Nov 4, 2015 03:03
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mariooncrack posted:I own a 2014 6-speed Outback. I haven't towed anything with it though. The first gear is longer and sometimes going between 1st and 2nd gear can be difficult. Travel between the gears is really long. The manual is the base model so there's no bells and whistles. It basically looks like a car from the mid-2000's. There's barely any tech in it. There's a radio and bluetooth blows. My phone has a lot of trouble connecting to it. The ride and everything is nice. Not quite sure how common a used manual is. The ride is fine and there's plenty of space. I live in the Midwest so the AWD helps out. Eh, it basically sounds like a standard manual transmission they slip into the average car nowadays when they're expecting to sell mostly automatics to everyone. It's not surprising but beggars can't be choosers. As for the radio and bluetooth, I was reading about that earlier and realized an aftermarket head unit would be in my future. Not really surprising as even the Mazda3's system (which is lauded for being really well designed and user friendly) is a complete clusterfuck with my iPhone and doesn't do half the poo poo it purports to do with regards to reading text messages, etc. I had it working at one point and it gave up the ghost over the last week, and the system also loves to randomly reboot or just not turn on at all while driving sometimes. Tech is tech and it doesn't matter much to me. mariooncrack posted:I would honestly just keep your car. You'll probably lose some money trading it in. If you really need a manual, go try a 5-speed Impreza, 6-speed Forester, or 6-speed Mazda 3. They're all still available new. This is where I am struggling right now, as one of the major things about switching cars is getting something with the ability to tow. Insofar the only "car" that's left on the market that can tow is the Legacy/Outback, whereas every other vehicle is a crossover SUV which is as appealing to me as a root canal. Mazda is very explicit with their owners in the U.S. that the presence of a trailer hitch on the car will void the warranty (Magnum-Moss makes this bullshit if there's an electrical issue with only the presence of a trailer hitch, but I'd hate to have them blame a wiring kit for faulty headlights, etc.) and Subaru basically said the Impreza cannot tow. The Forester is a unique thing where it can tow, but I'm honestly not sold on the design because I feel like it's bordering the crossover look and I'm not thrilled with that. The thing that kills me is that the Mazda 3 is actually regarded as a decent car to tow with over in the UK, but in the US you need to buy a loving RAM 2500 X-TREME PENIS EDITION to tow a 400 lb motorcycle on a 250 lb trailer because evidently Americans are morons and don't understand how anything works, but whatever.
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Nov 4, 2015 04:41
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I forgot that you mentioned you wanted to tow when I posted that. I know they classify the Outback as a wagon but it's more like a crossover these days. If you don't like crossovers then I don't think this is the car for you. While it is longer than most crossovers, it has as much ground clearance or more. It almost has as much ground clearance as a Honda Pilot. If you're deadset on the manual, your best bet is probably the Forester. I think the CX-5 also comes in a manual.
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Nov 4, 2015 05:31
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