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Cakefool posted:On every cabinet of a similar design I've ever seen there's a piece going the width of the cabinet under the drawers, supporting that hanging noggin. I'm surprised you haven't one, is it missing? No idea other than it's not there now. Would that really help though? Wouldn't it just sag like the top piece? Edit: Looks like you're right http://preview.manual.guru/preview-manual-for-free-15049/furniture-ikea-akurum-rail-partition-36.html?p=2 Of course this poo poo is discontinued so now I doubt I'd be able to get one of these. Maybe I could DIY something? Sleepstupid fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 19:03
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Crotch Fruit posted:
Look into energy efficiency rebates. It varies by location, but here in MA I was able to get Mass Save to pay for 2/3 of an insulation job.
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Oct 28, 2015 19:14
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Sleepstupid posted:No idea other than it's not there now. Would that really help though? Wouldn't it just sag like the top piece? Should be easy to diy as it's not visible when the drawers are closed and it's just screwed to the side with angle brackets. You'll need a piece of timber that fits between the drawers, a couple of simple right angle brackets and appropriate screws.
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Oct 28, 2015 19:32
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Bad Munki posted:Here are a couple layouts you might be interested in: That's ridiculous There's no room for feet in between the couples' toilets
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Oct 28, 2015 20:39
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You're supposed to lean on each other for support, back-to-back.
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Oct 28, 2015 20:46
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Oct 28, 2015 20:56
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Hopefully this is the right place to ask this... I recently bought a sectional sofa, but it doesn't have any connectors to attach the pieces to each other. There are a couple of different types of after-market connectors I can buy and install onto the pieces myself, just wondering if anyone knows which are the best. Also, I can't use the elastic bands that hold the feet together due to the legs being tapered and pretty drat thick.
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Oct 29, 2015 01:37
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Crotch Fruit posted:Looking at menards.com, I see things like 3-1/2" x 15" x 32' R13 - $8.23. Considering I have approximately 20 linear feet of 8ft tall walls, that would be 160sq ft and 4 rolls or $40 - which is a hell of a lot less than $245 to insulate the wall. Did I simply choose cheap crap insulation, or is the amount of labor worth the extra $200? Is there anything special I need to know about insulation near plumbing and electrical lines? Should I insulate the whole wall or only the red line that is connected with the family room? I believe the most difficult area will be around the doorway leading into the room since the space between the studs is about 3 inches or less. . . Would I just attempt to cut a long skinny strip of batting or use something else? How is insulation supposed to be cut, scissors or a special tool? It is just labor, and other contractor overhead/profit, etc. You should probably insulate the whole wall. Half assing it will provide additional "flanking paths" that let noise bypass your sound dampening. Nothing special to worry about around plumbing and electrical lines, assuming you don't have knob and tube wiring. You should cut a long skinny strip of batting, using a straight edge and a utility knife. For the ceiling, you don't need to fill the entire space. A simple 3 1/2" batt will get you most of the benefits. Note that it won't do very much to cut down the noise of footsteps from the entry area; it will mostly be effective at reducing mid range sounds, like conversation.
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Oct 29, 2015 16:59
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Zhentar posted:It is just labor, and other contractor overhead/profit, etc. Thanks for your advice, I do want to whole rear end instead of half rear end my install, I just assumed insulating around the bathroom would be a waste as far as sound goes, I don't want to be Grover Haus and insulate every square inch including under the stairs. Also I was considering the fact that it will require trimming to get around the plumbing which I'm not 100% sure of how to do. The guides I read online said if there is a wire or pipe running horizontal, you should split the batt in half so that it can be stuffed on either side, which makes sense for a strand of Romex or a 1 inch pipe. But what do I do about the big 3" (I haven't measured yet it actually) vent running vertically? Should I simply cut a slice of insulation to go on either side or not? As for the ceiling. . . The master bathroom (tub, toilet, shower, two sinks) is above so it's a hell of a pipe maze. Homedepot.com does recommend 9.5" thick R30 insulation for the ceiling. But I am not doing this to trap in heat, just muffle the noise a little, so I like your advice about going with 3.5" R-13 insulation instead, in part because it would end up costing about half as much. I also believe I could probably stuff a batt of 3-1/2" thick insulation either on top of the pipes, or below between the pipes and the future ceiling. The "pro" at Home Depot recommend I go with insulation + a reflective barrier. In my google searching last night, I mostly found advice for home theatre  prices, or dirt cheap "insulation only" answers, I don't remember anyone recommending a reflective barrier. Is this something that is actually a good, and cost effective idea? I am perfectly fine spending $8 for 40sq feet of pink fiberglass, but now I have $29 worth of 50sq ft of reflective barrier. . . I don't know if I should return it or use it on the part of the ceiling directly below the walkway.
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Oct 29, 2015 17:54
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Crotch Fruit posted:Thanks for your advice, I do want to whole rear end instead of half rear end my install, I just assumed insulating around the bathroom would be a waste as far as sound goes, I don't want to be Grover Haus and insulate every square inch including under the stairs. Also I was considering the fact that it will require trimming to get around the plumbing which I'm not 100% sure of how to do. The guides I read online said if there is a wire or pipe running horizontal, you should split the batt in half so that it can be stuffed on either side, which makes sense for a strand of Romex or a 1 inch pipe. But what do I do about the big 3" (I haven't measured yet it actually) vent running vertically? Should I simply cut a slice of insulation to go on either side or not? Here is a specific type of insulation made for sound proofing and for fire resistance. It's also very water resistant. It is sold at Lowes and Home Depot near me. It's a little more expensive than normal fiberglass but it has other benefits that might make up for the increase in price. It might be worth looking into vs the super expensive way that was suggested. http://www.roxul.com/products/residential/products/roxul+safe%27n%27sound http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roxul-Safe-n-Sound-3-in-x-15-1-4-in-x-47-in-Soundproofing-Stone-Wool-Insulation-12-Roll-RXSS31525/202531875
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Oct 29, 2015 18:49
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I think I have a potentially dumb question. Would using a pre assembled deck railing section indoors be a bad idea?  We have a pellet stove insert in our living room fireplace and one very mobile small child that doesn't know better yet, I'm not happy with the available "child safety barrier" options. The plan would to be buy two pre-assembled railing sections and cut them up to fit on/around our fireplace mantel. For ~$60 I could make a much sturdier option than the ones I've seen for sale. I don't have enough spiffy woodtools to consider making my own railing from scratch and I really would probably only need it for this year (daughter is turning 1 soon). According to this link modern PT lumber is fine unless you're like going to be eating off of it (I would try to keep my daughter from eating too much of it).
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Oct 29, 2015 20:05
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http://www.walmart.com/ip/8456791?w...9614414&veh=sem Had two of these for my son. I really like how they attached to the wall but also have a gate and fold up fast. You can pay a premium if you want wood.
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Oct 29, 2015 20:20
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:http://www.walmart.com/ip/8456791?w...9614414&veh=sem I'm not sure how well that would work, I'm a special snowflake and have a lovely desk built right up against the fireplace, I don't know if one of those sections would fit under the desk. It's a wide fireplace too, I'd probably need more than one of those kits :-/  Do the hinges somehow tighten so you can't just put around on it if you don'r have them at right angles?
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Oct 29, 2015 20:33
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Any suggestions on what to do with this bathroom? Design on the left is whats there now. On the right is my current plan which to make the back room a shower/tub room, put a stacked washer/dryer where the tub was, and replace the single pedestal sink with a double vanity. What is one of the worst floor plans I have ever seen. Is there no way to incorporate that massive back room into an existing bedroom or something and just put the washer/dryer in the basement? If you are set on moving things around, remember that you have to run supply and drain lines to the tub in its new home, so you might want to at least have the tub drain from the left instead of the right to get you closer to the existing drain and stack. You may also have some concerns regarding those walls as your local plumbing code may call for something wider than you have. That said, this is what I would do:  This way it all looks like one room and you have a big closet for towels and stuff instead of a small dance floor in front of the tub. That's a serious waste of space, like 45-50 square feet.
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Oct 29, 2015 21:33
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You forgot the extra toilet(s). 
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Oct 29, 2015 22:13
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dreesemonkey posted:I'm not sure how well that would work, I'm a special snowflake and have a lovely desk built right up against the fireplace, I don't know if one of those sections would fit under the desk. It's a wide fireplace too, I'd probably need more than one of those kits :-/ Put the fence around your desk too. Babies love grabbing cords.
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Oct 29, 2015 22:16
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dreesemonkey posted:I'm not sure how well that would work, I'm a special snowflake and have a lovely desk built right up against the fireplace, I don't know if one of those sections would fit under the desk. It's a wide fireplace too, I'd probably need more than one of those kits :-/ There is about 270* of rotation on the connections that you tighten to lock the angle. As mentioned surround your desk. The little door works well and is self closing. Fe: I went to my local lowes and showed them the cheapest price I found online and they beat it by 10%
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Oct 29, 2015 22:35
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Antifreeze Head posted:What is one of the worst floor plans I have ever seen. Is there no way to incorporate that massive back room into an existing bedroom or something and just put the washer/dryer in the basement? Do a separate shower and bath IMO. That way you can have a decent bath and a decent shower without having to stand in the bath and spray water everywhere.
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Oct 30, 2015 00:18
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Crotch Fruit posted:Thanks for your advice, I do want to whole rear end instead of half rear end my install, I just assumed insulating around the bathroom would be a waste as far as sound goes, I don't want to be Grover Haus and insulate every square inch including under the stairs. Also I was considering the fact that it will require trimming to get around the plumbing which I'm not 100% sure of how to do. The guides I read online said if there is a wire or pipe running horizontal, you should split the batt in half so that it can be stuffed on either side, which makes sense for a strand of Romex or a 1 inch pipe. But what do I do about the big 3" (I haven't measured yet it actually) vent running vertically? Should I simply cut a slice of insulation to go on either side or not? For sound insulation, just cram the insulation in around the pipes and wires as best you can. You may need to slice it to lay flat around some obstructions, but if you don't have to, don't bother. The details aren't really important here; you just need something soft inside the cavity to absorb echoes to prevent resonance (this is also why 3.5" inside a 1' cavity works just fine). The radiant barrier bubble wrap is completely worthless here. Installing it would be a waste of time and money.
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Oct 30, 2015 00:45
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For the weird extra bathroom room, if you enjoy baths you could put a nice garden tub in there. I took an unfinished 6'x7' closet in my basement and turned it into a nice "spa retreat".
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Oct 30, 2015 00:53
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Zhentar posted:The radiant barrier bubble wrap is completely worthless here. Installing it would be a waste of time and money. Thanks! Your expert opinion here will save me a lot of money.
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Oct 30, 2015 02:57
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Bad Munki posted:You forgot the extra toilet(s). If you have a bathtub then you already have an extra toilet. One that can handle more than one person using it at a time, in fact. Put the tub in the middle of the room and even more people can access it at once. You could have races!
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Oct 30, 2015 04:39
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Gromit posted:If you have a bathtub then you already have an extra toilet. Wafflestomping?
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Oct 30, 2015 05:10
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Gromit posted:If you have a bathtub then you already have an extra toilet. One that can handle more than one person using it at a time, in fact. Put the tub in the middle of the room and even more people can access it at once. You could have races!
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Oct 30, 2015 05:37
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Antifreeze Head posted:What is one of the worst floor plans I have ever seen. Is there no way to incorporate that massive back room into an existing bedroom or something and just put the washer/dryer in the basement? The back room is next to the 3rd bedroom, which is already a good size, so I would rather use the space to bring the washer and dryer up from the basement. I like where you put the tub, tho I was planning on doing an open shower next to the tub like thespaceinvader said, so I think I might do that where you have the closet. Zhentar posted:For the weird extra bathroom room, if you enjoy baths you could put a nice garden tub in there. I took an unfinished 6'x7' closet in my basement and turned it into a nice "spa retreat". That would be really nice. I will check out how much those corner tubs are. The house comes with the clawfoot tub I have in the drawings, so I might just keep that to save money.
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Oct 30, 2015 13:35
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Any suggestions on what to do with this bathroom? Design on the left is whats there now. On the right is my current plan which to make the back room a shower/tub room, put a stacked washer/dryer where the tub was, and replace the single pedestal sink with a double vanity. Going by the dimensions 5'2" x 9'2" in your picture, that back room is big enough to fit a full bath. I just measured my kid's bathroom, it is 4'11" x 8'6" and has the same layout as my MS Paint copy pasta. Hell, the layout I've used is like every single bathroom ever (except for master bathrooms) since it allows all the plumbing to be done on one wall. . . Which brings me to the kinda lovely part of the deal, your current plumbing is on the left, but the door is on the left side of the back room which would mean putting new plumbing in on the right side away from the drain. . . I don't know how hard it is to move a plumbing line but I'm guessing it might be easier to relocate the door and mirror the bathroom. One thing I'd like to point, literally every bathroom I've been in with this arrangement has had the sink-shitter-shower combo on the right when you walk in, maybe it's ergonomics or an Illuminati conspiracy.  
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Oct 30, 2015 15:24
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Hey guys, we recently bought a house that came with a "garage." I use the scare quotes because it's really a shed in the side yard with no garage door, but it's ~ 12 x 20 or so, so a pretty good size. I'm like 75% sure it isn't insulated at all. It's finished in that the insides look like they've got plywood with some lovely stucco and paint over it or something. It's not in amazing shape; I figure some time in the next 10 years we'll probably just rip it down and build a proper garage or something. Either way I don't want to sink thousands of dollars into it. Which brings me to this - I'd like to be able to work in there this winter. Now that we've got room, I'm slowly building up our tool chest; just picked up a compound miter saw, which has been a blast, and I'm planning on putting a CNC in there. Currently there's a slightly out of alignment sliding glass door on the back wall (this is oriented longways), with a door and window in the front wall. Are there any worthwhile solutions for insulation? I've seen some people on the internet use bubble wrap. I mostly want something that will let me heat the place up for a few hours without it instantly just shooting outside. Ideally, something I could take down in the spring. There is a ceiling fan to help with circulation. I was originally planning on putting a little woodstove or pellet stove in there, but my SO would rather I go with electric IR unit (I tend to sing their praises for space heaters as opposed to those terrible ceramic forced-air things) - which is probably a good idea since I dunno if I'd be in there for hours and hours at a time in the winter.
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Oct 30, 2015 21:03
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mediaphage posted:I mostly want something that will let me heat the place up for a few hours without it instantly just shooting outside. You don't need insulation to accomplish that, just a place that isn't drafty.
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Oct 30, 2015 23:56
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An IR heater is going to give you the fastest response time (especially if it's drafty), and it's a cheap place to start; you can always add a stove later if it's not enough by itself to be comfortable.
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Oct 31, 2015 03:42
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Yeah, my go-to assumption for heating a workspace would be an IR lamp of some kind and a cheap coat. Cheap because you're liable to get sawdust and oil and crap on it. Wear over-ear hearing protection too and you should be good to go.
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Oct 31, 2015 03:54
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IR lamps should be safe as long as they are kept clean. Another option is a portable oil filled radiator heater. They average 50 buck at home centers. Basically, keep them clean and there should be no problem. You are or have put some kind of smoke detector in the shed right?
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Oct 31, 2015 06:52
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Thanks guys, that's probably what I'll stick to doing then. The Gardenator posted:IR lamps should be safe as long as they are kept clean. Another option is a portable oil filled radiator heater. They average 50 buck at home centers. Basically, keep them clean and there should be no problem. Not yet. I'm probably going to stick one up when I mount the IR heater. It's not used much at all right now; I don't even have a workbench or anything in there yet. Mostly out of an overabundance of caution since it's not like I'd be able to hear it in the house.
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Oct 31, 2015 18:14
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I'm building a wheeled work-table on for our darkroom but I'm a little stumped as to which wheels to choose Should each wheel be rated for the full weight of the table or just a quarter of the weight? Or something in between? e:If it's not clear, I'm talking about spinning castor-wheels
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Nov 1, 2015 15:55
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Pondex posted:I'm building a wheeled work-table on for our darkroom but I'm a little stumped as to which wheels to choose How much you can believe the rating depends on the quality. And trust me, you want them over-speced. Technically each one needs to support 1/4 of the weight, but that assumed the rating are correct, the wheels actually work well at full capacity, and the table is loaded evenly. On casters, always go overkill. You won't be disappointed.
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Nov 1, 2015 17:42
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I recently had to build a display table with wheels. I used four of these shiny red locking casters: http://m.lowes.com/pd/Waxman-3-in-Polyolefin-Swivel-Caster-with-Brake/50392288 Its better to assume that your coworkers will ride the table at some point.
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Nov 1, 2015 18:33
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Motronic posted:How much you can believe the rating depends on the quality. And trust me, you want them over-speced. Yeah, I kind of figured as much. Guess we should just bite the bullet and get the right wheels 
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Nov 2, 2015 12:05
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Anyone have a good reference for screw sizes? I can't seem to find a single non-ambiguous one online...
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Nov 3, 2015 17:15
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Subyng posted:Anyone have a good reference for screw sizes? I can't seem to find a single non-ambiguous one online... Take your screw, nut, or whatever into the hardware store. They generally have a board up somewhere with samples of all the different sizes that you can test against. ...belatedly I now realize why "screw" and "nut" are sex euphemisms.
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Nov 3, 2015 17:18
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I have a small amount of trim work to do. I repainted my kitchen cabinets and there's 1/4 round along the edges and crown molding at the top that needs to be replaced, along with about 20 feet of baseboard under the cabinets. I'll need to handle 2 90 degree outside corners and 2 45 degree inside corners, and I'm looking at what I'll need for tools. I'm hoping I can get away with a ~$90 miter saw from home depot plus some nail sets rather than paying an additional $200 for a finishing nailer + air compressor. Does anyone have any advice for what tools I can get away with? Also, are there any tricks I should be aware of for cutting and placing the molding?
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Nov 3, 2015 17:28
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Yeah, you don't need a fancy nailer for this; nail sets will do fine. It does take a little care to hammer them in without slipping and punching a small hole just to the side of the nail though. As for cutting/placement, the main thing I think is just to cut oversize and then trim down to fit, rather than trusting your measurements. I mean, that applies to any job really, but it's pretty easy to screw up measurements for miter cuts and end up a half-inch short, at which point you've just wasted 10' or whatever worth of trim.
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Nov 3, 2015 17:34
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