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Thanks for the feedback! An '04 with a manual transmission popped up on my local CL about a week ago and I've been debating whether to look into it or not. The ad is well written and the guy put in a bunch of maintenance and some very minor IPD mods, so it seems promising. I'm a little surprised the ad is still up given how seemingly rare the V70R + manual transmission combo is, but it does seem like a niche car at the same time. Good luck on your possible purchase (did you find a sonic blue/atacama/6MT?) ! Asides from reliability/maintenance costs, the V70R just hits all the right buttons for me.
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Aug 27, 2015 02:15
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I wish, I did swear that if I ever got an R it would be in one of the insane colors: Passion Red, Sonic Blue, or Flash Green. But when a deal presents itself sometimes you just gotta take it. It's Titanium Gray/Nordkap, 6MT. Looking at it tomorrow night, I was the third caller but first to set a meeting. It's crashed but relatively easy to fix, so if I get it there will be another build thread from me. Please nobody from Denver go and snake it out from under me.
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Aug 27, 2015 08:43
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Ooh. Good luck!
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Aug 27, 2015 14:23
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LloydDobler posted:I wish, I did swear that if I ever got an R it would be in one of the insane colors: Passion Red, Sonic Blue, or Flash Green. But when a deal presents itself sometimes you just gotta take it. It's Titanium Gray/Nordkap, 6MT. Looking at it tomorrow night, I was the third caller but first to set a meeting. It's crashed but relatively easy to fix, so if I get it there will be another build thread from me. When I got mine I wanted a sonic blue with atacama, but settled for TI & Nordcap as well. Price was right, car was in great shape and close to me. I got an auto, which I'm still regretting. The only major problem I've had with the car has been the transmission. Aside from that, a few sub-$1k issues here and there, but all in all I love the car. It's a great blend of performance and comfort. The main thing I would change is the suspension, sport is too crashy and comfort is too floppy. I'm planning to do a suspension refresh eventually but I don't know how much it will help. Every R I've been in (3 total) has felt about the same.
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Aug 27, 2015 23:22
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Well, guys have figured out how to bypass the 4c so you can install awesome coilovers now. Unfortunately I missed out on my chance tonight, someone else got the car before I did. The guy had it priced too low, and people from out of state were even calling on it. He was able to get guys to bid it up over what he had listed. I guess it'll be another year or so before I join the big boys club.
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Aug 28, 2015 04:00
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LloydDobler posted:Well, guys have figured out how to bypass the 4c so you can install awesome coilovers now. Yeah I've heard about that, but I've also heard mixed reviews of the results. I'd have to experience it in person to decide if I wanted to go that route. Sorry to hear you missed out on the car, but they'll only get cheaper (and more messed up unfortunately) with time.
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Aug 28, 2015 23:38
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My 2003 S40 with 85,000 miles on it had the check engine light come on today. Dealer called me to say the current estimate is $2,500, but he wanted to make absolute sure I wanted to go ahead and do all the work because "Kelley book value puts your car at $1,900". The gently caress! Why isn't my car worth anything?
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Sep 3, 2015 22:16
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The used car market is still full on retarded right now, but starting to level out. But remember your car is 12 years old. I still find it hard to say anything built 2000-2003 is now considered "old"
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Sep 3, 2015 22:58
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:My 2003 S40 with 85,000 miles on it had the check engine light come on today. Dealer called me to say the current estimate is $2,500, but he wanted to make absolute sure I wanted to go ahead and do all the work because "Kelley book value puts your car at $1,900". because it's a first-generation S40, aka the Mitsubishi Carisma
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Sep 4, 2015 01:02
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:My 2003 S40 with 85,000 miles on it had the check engine light come on today. Dealer called me to say the current estimate is $2,500, but he wanted to make absolute sure I wanted to go ahead and do all the work because "Kelley book value puts your car at $1,900". First-gen S40s are essentially forgotten by the general public and they have almost zero enthusiast following so there's no interest to keep the value up. They're also at the stage in the used-car life cycle where they've been through a revolving door of owners who don't take care of them so most of them need a ton of maintenance and they're not cheap to fix up. It's probably worth more than $1900 since the miles are pretty low but it might not be worth sinking $2500 into if it's not in good shape or if you were planning to sell it soon. What did they say was wrong with it?
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Sep 4, 2015 02:57
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I've been eyeballing the XC70 recently. I'm driving an 07 Saturn ION right now with 61k on the clock that's already had struts, shocks, springs, sway bar links, steering shaft, wheel hubs, and as a topper the A/C blew out all its Freon somewhere under the dash I haven't yet found. I don't really enjoy this car but it's been .... somewhat reliable. Sort of. I want to get something with more room, and started looking at CUVs, and finally figured that the XC70 not only has plenty of room, but quality interior, T6 seems fun, and I do like that interior rack system for bikes and that. Hunting for one of these has really been an exercise, they crop up rarely and when they do they have 100k on the clock, they're 35,000$, or they're 300 miles away. While I'm waiting I figured I'd ask the brick boys here: If I grab a P3, is this going to be reliable for owning it for 10 years? It looks like service parts and pieces are going to be somewhat more expensive than the Garbage Motors I'm driving now, but hopefully it will need less of them. These seem to hold up really well given the salt we barf on the roads for half the year, that's a plus. It looks like if I can find one that's like a CPO 2011+, I can find a good value.
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Sep 6, 2015 00:46
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I'm glad I came into this thread right as you post about 04 s60rs, might be my next dumb purchase.
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Sep 13, 2015 12:21
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Bought a Volvo V40 today. Two things I noticed (it's AT): - It seems to change to second gear very slow. It slowly builds up to around 20 km/h and then suddenly there's a noticible gear change and the car speeds up. Not a big deal, but kinda annoying. - While driving in R, I had to go up a small bump and the engine turned off while trying to "conquer" said bump. I wasn't using the gas at this point.
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Sep 16, 2015 17:18
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I may have just purchased an M56 transmission for my 855T. Here's the deal: I have the choice of either an M56L (close ratio) or M56H (normal) trans, and I'm not sure which one to get. I'd like to get the L but there seems to be a lot of people online saying that the L is weaker than the H. I don't really believe that since they are the exact same transmission besides 1st and 2nd gear ratios but who knows. Anyone here have any thoughts/opinions about the differences? LloydDobler?
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Sep 17, 2015 03:32
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Old supervisor just let me know that his dad's 97 850R is for sale. It's somewhat cheap. I said I would never own a fwd auto Volvo but I'm considering selling the 323 and buying it. It's white with volans and I like the way it looks. I just really don't need another project...
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Sep 17, 2015 07:40
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Do eet. 850s are the brickest of the brick.
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Sep 17, 2015 15:26
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Terrible Robot posted:I may have just purchased an M56 transmission for my 855T. The M56H already has a pretty short first and second gear. I don't think you'd like the M56L at all in a turbo car.
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Sep 17, 2015 21:36
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zundfolge posted:The M56H already has a pretty short first and second gear. I don't think you'd like the M56L at all in a turbo car. Even the L isn't geared as short as my current manual DD (Forester) so it'll still be a nice change for me. Also some Ls got 3.77:1 final drives (also could be 4.00:1 or 4.45(!):1) which would really help out on the highway as well as letting the gears wind out a little more. The H only got the 4.00:1 or 4.45:1 final drives so my choice will really come down to what the ratios end up being on the two I have a choice between. I'm waiting to hear back from the seller and then I'll make my decision based on that.
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Sep 17, 2015 23:01
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I don't know which is which but I have the tall geared M56 in my C70 and the short geared one in my V70, both with 4.00 final drive. I like the tall geared one better, even though it's slower off the line. 2nd through 5th are just better rev ranges for around town and back road cruising. I can do something like 40 mph in 1st gear, 60 mph in 2nd gear and 95 in 3rd. In my wagon 1st gear is done before you even get anywhere, and if you want to take off quick you just spin tires. The strange part is they're really not all that different but the feel is very different in terms of shift timing. And if there's any way you can swing it at all, get the quaife LSD. Yeah they're $1300 but god drat. They only take an hour to put in and it's night and day in terms of wheelspin.
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Sep 18, 2015 10:20
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My Google skills are failing me... What year range V70 had the recall/reflash on the transmission programming? I know 00 and 01, was that all? Asking because I found a 02 turbo wagon sitting at a mechanic, said the mechanic told them it had a blown front cam or crank seal, and they don't want to pay to have fixed. If it is the cam seal, how much of a PITA is dealing with the vvt stuff in the way? I'm familiar with the older white blocks, never had one this new.
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Sep 24, 2015 03:51
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angryrobots posted:My Google skills are failing me... What year range V70 had the recall/reflash on the transmission programming? I know 00 and 01, was that all? The tranny software was 01 and 02, the glass tranny was 5 speed autos from 00 to 02. There are valve body/solenoid updates that make it bulletproof once the stop neutral software is deactivated, which most should have been by now. Cam seals are easy if you buy the tools, which include everything for pulling and setting the head, and under $100. You can even take the front cam seal off the back of the cam if you don't want to mess with the VVT sprocket and would rather split the head instead. 99-03 only has one VVT sprocket on the exhaust, intake is fixed so if intake seal is leaking it's even easier. http://smile.amazon.com/Eteyo-Camsh...60_SR160%2C160_ Just one example, there are a huge variety of suppliers so read the reviews as some have really lovely build quality with soft metal and poor threads, etc.
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Sep 25, 2015 08:01
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Good to know, thanks a lot man.
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Sep 25, 2015 12:44
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The VVT cam hub in my V70R has been rattling on hot starts and I was feeling motivated this weekend after procrastinating about it all summer, so I decided to replace it. I didn't align the new hub correctly when I installed it, so I had to take everything apart to reinstall the cam locking tool and do it over...and wouldn't you know it, I broke one of the bolts for the tool in the exhaust cam. I have the CTA tool that IPD sells, and I'd used it a couple times before without issue, so I figured the hardware was OK. I've never tried to extract a broken bolt before, much less from something as important as a cam, so I'm really hoping fortune smiles on me and I can get it out easily. As if the broken bolt weren't annoying enough, I took the intake tube off the turbo to get a better shot at the back of the cam, and decided to check it for shaft play since I had the tube off. Turns out there's a bunch of in-and-out play, so I guess I need to add a turbo rebuild to my shopping list. I guess I shouldn't be too surprised since it's an R with high miles, but it's still really frustrating.
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Sep 28, 2015 17:14
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Well I did the cabin air filter in my wife's 04 mazda3. That was fun. The best part was getting the filter cover off and finding out that the car hasn't had a cabin air filter installed for at least 70k miles (since we've owned it)......
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Sep 30, 2015 13:06
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V40 rental trip report: Adaptive cruise is amazing, the indicators that show when people are on your side are surprisingly nice and useful. The whole city safety package is very nice to have as a reassurance. It got triggered when I was behind some moron just set off from a red light and decided to do a hard brake for nothing in the middle of the intersection (while going straight). No idea why they did that. The system triggered, but I was already braking for him. Pretty cool though, with the flashing HUD and audio warning. Anyway, if you are on the fence about the adaptive cruise, just get it. It's amazing to have. It makes rush hour traffic relaxing. Edit: Forgot to whine about the automatic gearbox. Holy poo poo is it boring to drive. Felt very sluggish compared to our V70 manual with the same engine (D3). MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 18:47
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I came across a few 2006-2008 XC90's while looking for a used SUV. Though I know nothing about Volvo, I'm a bit concerned by the used prices and massive depreciation. The two cars I'm looking at are a 2006 XC90 2.5T with 150k miles. The second is a 2008 3.2L with 130k. How is the reliability with either of these cars, or are there any specific maintenance records I should request? Will these last to 250k without enormous maintenance costs?
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Oct 11, 2015 20:10
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There were transmission issues on some, there is some discussion on swedespeed. Mostly that surrounded the T6 from what I recall reading. Like you, just doing research myself.
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Oct 12, 2015 12:44
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Magicaljesus posted:I came across a few 2006-2008 XC90's while looking for a used SUV. Though I know nothing about Volvo, I'm a bit concerned by the used prices and massive depreciation. The two cars I'm looking at are a 2006 XC90 2.5T with 150k miles. The second is a 2008 3.2L with 130k. How is the reliability with either of these cars, or are there any specific maintenance records I should request? Will these last to 250k without enormous maintenance costs? The 2.5T drivetrain is pretty bulletproof as long as the transmission fluid has been changed somewhat regularly. The 3.2 engines are nice but they're somewhat notorious for having oil consumption and piston ring issues, so it would be worth asking about maintenance records for that one. The first-generation T6 models with the GM transmission are really unreliable and should be avoided unless you're a masochist. Volvos in general depreciate pretty badly because the brand doesn't have a lot of cachet and they're fairly expensive to repair, but they're really nice cars and they're not too bad to own if you budget for regular maintenance and work on them yourself.
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Oct 12, 2015 15:16
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I'm just gonna leave this here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qKdVx15yOw
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Oct 14, 2015 23:34
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This summer I had a few codes related to idle, turbo control and lean conditions. I found the turbo charge hose was split by the ribbed section, and replaced it. Since then, the engine light came on a few times, but then went out and stayed out. But I occasionally get a crank-no-start, or hard-start condition. Maybe 1 in 10 starts, it will seem like it's not going to start, but cranks away merrily. About half the time this happens, I will also get a message saying 'Reduced Engine Performance', which lasts until it's warmed up, approximately. Once again, I'm stumped by Swedes. edit: 2005 S60 2.5T AWD VVV Alternator and battery seem good, no crank issues or lighting issues. I'll do an AVR and look to see if any codes have set pending tomorrow, but like I said, the MIL hasn't come on again.. mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 13:16
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Year and model? Need to get the stored codes. Also, check alternator and battery. Bad voltage will cause all kinds of problems.
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Oct 24, 2015 13:35
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I feel inclined to pull the trigger on the new XC90. It's the perfect car for my family and me and the price is right (especially compared with BMW). It would be my first Volvo. Anyway, I'm concerned about the dual turbo. At least it takes regular gas and gets moderately good mileage, but I'm concerned about its durability and whether it can be serviced by my local mechanic. Any thoughts or experiences?
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Oct 27, 2015 01:40
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I know nothing about volvos but this seems like an excellent idea. What can you tell me volvo goons? http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5282438901.html
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Oct 29, 2015 06:34
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previous owners suck!  Someone wedged the bulb into the wrong prongs so I had to remove the metal bulb holder and remove the bulb with pliers.
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Oct 29, 2015 06:59
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Larrymer posted:I know nothing about volvos but this seems like an excellent idea. What can you tell me volvo goons? Looks like a turboborked car. With rust and no a/c (he makes it sound like the heat is out too), that's a $500-750 car.
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Oct 29, 2015 08:49
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Larrymer posted:I know nothing about volvos but this seems like an excellent idea. What can you tell me volvo goons? "weight reduction" = removed the whole interior so it's ugly noisy and uncomfortable. That car's probably been to hell and not back. What you want is one that mom drove until she got her new car she gets every 20 years. Making a stock one faster is easy. Fixing something someone's rat rodded out is hard.
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Oct 30, 2015 05:00
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http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5292284821.html 05 S40 T5, 6 speed manual, 66,500 miles, 1 owner, says all maintenance done by dealer with records. $7500 I'm not up to date on S40 prices, but my reckoning seems to think that's a pretty good deal.
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Oct 30, 2015 23:22
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That seems really reasonable.
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Oct 31, 2015 05:38
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Mmm, brand new bumper goodness. I'll take some sunny glamour shots tomorrow. It's funny, you can't even tell in pictures (as in I have none to show you), but the entire underside below that crease on the old bumper was chewed to poo poo.
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Nov 3, 2015 09:20
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I need one of those for my R soon. Really damned expensive though.
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Nov 3, 2015 17:29
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