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wormil posted:Never had an interest in pens. I wouldn't mind turning one or a couple for gifts. Do you need a lot of special gear to make pens? Not a ton. You need a pen mandrel, and spacers of the appropriate size for whatever pen kit you're doing, and then a pen kit of course, and a blank. So really just this as overhead:  And then a pen kit and a blank for each pen you make. I started making pens early on specifically because it was one of those "extra fancy" things that could be gotten into for a pretty small fee, like $30 or less. Of course, if you want to make your own blanks, you need a liiiiittle more hardware, but still really not much, you'd still be in less than $40, I think, $50 at the most. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 13:56
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What's so crappy about modern planes, anyway? I assume it has something to do with the quality of metal they use; does it just not hold an edge well?
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Oct 28, 2015 14:42
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mds2 posted:Well, hello my friend, and welcome to woodworking... lol
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Oct 28, 2015 14:49
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What's so crappy about modern planes, anyway? I assume it has something to do with the quality of metal they use; does it just not hold an edge well? Aside from the higher-end brands (eg Lie Nielsen), it's the same problems you see with lower end tools in general these days- cheaper quality metals, poor quality casts (and/or stamped aluminum components), questionable quality control. Stock blades are normally crap steel to keep the price down, so yea they don't hold an edge for long. That being said, you don't have to spend a ton to get a decent quality new plane. I've got no complaints with my WoodRiver #4, though you could still pick up a pre-ww2 #4 and throw a new veritas blade in it for less money.
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Oct 28, 2015 15:23
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how many clamps do you need to make a pen
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Oct 28, 2015 15:28
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Hubis posted:how many clamps do you need to make a pen (pe)n+1
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Oct 28, 2015 15:38
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mds2 posted:Well, hello my friend, and welcome to woodworking... Haha, yeah well I already have the lathe, tools, chucks, but I imagine there is a ton of crap specific to pens. I'm wondering what is really needed to make a couple pens. Edit, thanks Bad Munki. Xmas gifts in general --- what are people doing this year (besides cutting boards)? wormil fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 17:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What's so crappy about modern planes, anyway? I assume it has something to do with the quality of metal they use; does it just not hold an edge well? My English made Stanley #4 has too big a mouth, wasn't flat, the frog is fiddly. It works okay after a lot fettling but the mouth is still too big and it needs sharpened more often. I have also compared a vintage Stanley 9 1/2 with a Craftsman copy. They are identical except for color and the little locking lever doohickey but the Stanley makes translucent plastic looking shavings while the Craftsman is just okay. I can't figure out what the difference is but it's there.
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Oct 28, 2015 18:10
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Aesthetically, modern planes typically use plastics for the handle & grip (this is excluding premium planes, of course. I just mean regular Joe Blow brand ones). Minor thing, but it's what I go by for a quick on-the-glance estimate for how old a dirty-lookin' plane might be  I think plastic handles started taking off in the 60s or something from what I saw/read.I can't speak from experience on performance, though. My only modern plane was the first one I bought; a bottom-shelf #4 Stanley off amazon. Darn thing doesn't have a proper lever cap or a chip breaker. It's odd  And I haven't used it past the first planing attempt.
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Oct 28, 2015 18:46
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wormil posted:Xmas gifts in general --- what are people doing this year (besides cutting boards)? Let's see. Coasters Chess/checkers board with storage drawer for pieces (I'll make the checkers, too, but gently caress making chess pieces) Comic book storage box for that one nerdo friend who still owns comic books Business card holders for service providers (hairdresser, etc) Pen holders/cubicle coat hooks for coworkers Picture frames, mirrors, and whiteboards (this is my poo poo right now; they're super easy and look amazing) Realistically I will finish maybe half of these because I suck.
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Oct 28, 2015 18:59
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wormil posted:Xmas gifts in general --- what are people doing this year (besides cutting boards)? I'm going to try to make my wife a nice incense storage box. It's easy to find nice incense burners, but nothing to store the stuff you haven't burned yet...
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Oct 28, 2015 19:07
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wormil posted:Haha, yeah well I already have the lathe, tools, chucks, but I imagine there is a ton of crap specific to pens. I'm wondering what is really needed to make a couple pens. Simple, cheap projects- A friend of mine designed a paper towel holder which was 2 pine cutouts of hands with a chunk of 1 1/4" dowel in the palms and a connector piece at the wrists that you can screw to the bottom of the upper cabinet. It was clever. I don't think he'd mind public domain etc. He had some other cool and easy designs Ive since forgotten Trivets- 1/4" dowels and 2 pieces of something, also pine. Still pretty simple- I made some walking sticks for my dad out of, wait for it- jatoba scraps a few years ago-  I ended up putting 3 1/2" drywall screw horizontally through the handle, covered with a walnut plug, as the short grain would be prone to fracture. Backscratchers.
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Oct 28, 2015 21:13
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There's a cheapo big box plane for sale here that I've been considering modifying into a scrub plane, which could be fun. I've been using one as my smoother, and it is pretty awful, but if it's sharp enough it serves. In an ideal world I should save up for a good smoother and mod the old one.
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Oct 28, 2015 22:28
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In my experience even a cheap chinesium modern plane can be made to work good enough. My #4 is a 24,95 hu long ding dong special. The sole was flat and straight, right out of the blister pack. The blade was about as sharp as Methuselah's arse, the lever cap needed serious grinding, and the both adjustment mechanisms were about as rigid as custard pudding. Luckily my dad and a friend of his are building a 5 axis cnc mill out of an old Bridgeport. So getting proper parts machined is trivial for me. They can be made to work, but you'll have to have some parts made to more strict tolerances than they did in China.
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Oct 28, 2015 23:48
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I've never actually used a mandrel to turn a pen. I somehow started off the bat turning between centers with bushings. I don't like slimlines and am generally drawn to the looks of a single barrel pen so it was no great hardship not being able to do two blanks at once. Had a good customer request a cutting board in a style I had done for her in the past, but this time as a Christmas gift later this year to her brother.   
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Oct 29, 2015 01:05
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That is a mighty nice looking cutting board.
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Oct 29, 2015 01:10
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That's really nice, do the sliding dovetails and feet run the whole length of the board? can't see from the pics.
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Oct 29, 2015 01:19
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That's gorgeous. What kind of wood is that?
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Oct 29, 2015 01:21
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Thanks. It's walnut, and they do run the length. About 18" or so.
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Oct 29, 2015 01:27
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Used shellac for the first time last night to coat a walking stick. I'm definitely going to be using shellac a lot more in future. It feels so nice and dries so fast! Also on hand planes. I got a pre ww2 plane and did some restoration to it at the same time as some newer ones and definitely found the older plane came out of the process cutting much nicer shavings. Could be just random chance though.
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Oct 29, 2015 02:58
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If you read up on french polish technique, but then actually just do a lazy version of it, you might like shellac even more. I think it's almost universally the best looking finish, on any wood. Even just a short set of passes ensures a finish that never gets plastic-thick, can be nearly invisible, can fill grain or sink into it, and really emphasizes chatoyance.
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Oct 29, 2015 06:56
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Someone named Ted isn't very good at the internet. edit; TooMuchAbstraction. I don't know if it counts as  but I will play it safeVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV wormil fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Oct 29, 2015 |
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Oct 29, 2015 19:27
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wormil posted:Someone named Ted isn't very good at the internet. look security is hard okay More seriously though, isn't your posting of this ?
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Oct 29, 2015 19:46
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HE CAN SHOW ME HOW TO MAKE A CAT HOUSE OUTTA THE WAY
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Oct 29, 2015 19:46
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I've been looking for that worm farming guide forever, I can finally realize my dreams.
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Oct 29, 2015 19:57
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This afternoon I learned that despite what the manufacturer says, you can raise a 31.7mm bit through the 30mm hole in the dust extraction fitting. 1mm of plastic doesn't mean a lot to a carbide tipped round over bit. Something felt unstable while routing so in sort of a reflex I released the plunge to retract the bit. On the plus side, now that the 10mm round over bit fits through the hole, I won't have to worry about it happening again.
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Oct 30, 2015 02:31
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Cobalt60 posted:If you read up on french polish technique, but then actually just do a lazy version of it, you might like shellac even more. I think it's almost universally the best looking finish, on any wood. Even just a short set of passes ensures a finish that never gets plastic-thick, can be nearly invisible, can fill grain or sink into it, and really emphasizes chatoyance. Yeah I'll have to experiment some more for sure. In this case I actually put some dark stain on a walking stick then coated it with shellac. The first coat mixed with the stain and lightened it up a fair bit then the next two coats went down nice and smooth. It was originally just going to be for a Halloween costume but now I'm considering putting a brass tip on it and giving it to my dad for his birthday.
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Oct 30, 2015 03:15
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Consider avoiding stain entirely when using shellac. I think it's great to do like 1-3 soft passes with something like Tru-Oil, then shellac after for the "pop." I personally think stains show even more unevenness under shellac, so I avoid stains whenever possible.
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Oct 30, 2015 04:21
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Cobalt60 posted:Consider avoiding stain entirely when using shellac. I think it's great to do like 1-3 soft passes with something like Tru-Oil, then shellac after for the "pop." I personally think stains show even more unevenness under shellac, so I avoid stains whenever possible. Yeah I probably will avoid stain. It made for an interesting experiment though.
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Oct 30, 2015 04:25
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Squibbles posted:Yeah I'll have to experiment some more for sure. In this case I actually put some dark stain on a walking stick then coated it with shellac. The first coat mixed with the stain and lightened it up a fair bit then the next two coats went down nice and smooth. It was originally just going to be for a Halloween costume but now I'm considering putting a brass tip on it and giving it to my dad for his birthday. You realize now you have to post your costume?
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Oct 30, 2015 14:51
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Mr. Mambold posted:You realize now you have to post your costume? Not my costume but I'll try to remember to take some pictures of the walking stick :p
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Oct 30, 2015 16:28
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My sacrifices to Tapio have been answered, and I found a solid source for quality wood in Korsholm. Left with a big plank each of apple, willow, and flame-figured birch. I also grew my collection because Clamps Rule Everything Around Me. I'm weighing the purchase of a Pax rip saw like this. http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=46886&cat=1,42884,63338&ap=1, I've been using a ryoba for all of my ripping needs, and am feeling a bit limited by it. Any thoughts on rip saws?
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Oct 30, 2015 21:12
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Free Market Mambo posted:I'm weighing the purchase of a Pax rip saw like this. http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=46886&cat=1,42884,63338&ap=1, I've been using a ryoba for all of my ripping needs, and am feeling a bit limited by it. Any thoughts on rip saws?
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Oct 30, 2015 23:21
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Free Market Mambo posted:My sacrifices to Tapio have been answered, and I found a solid source for quality wood in Korsholm. Was it Korsholms trätjänst or something else?
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Oct 31, 2015 08:34
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It was a small family bondgård in Veikars, the father had run a small sawmill and after he passed away the son took over. I don't think lumber is their primary operation, but they had a good stock and were very friendly and accommodating.
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Oct 31, 2015 11:28
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I'm trying some compass inlay for a box I'm working on, I've done all the grooving so far with a some shop made tools. Basically a sharpened piece of bandsaw blade, a piece of wood and a screw for a pivot point. There's a couple spots where I went off mark, but so far so good. Hopefully gluing the stringing goes well. I'm using white cedar for the stringing, because that will be the secondary wood for the box liner, etc and wanted it to match.
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Nov 1, 2015 00:49
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Super cool
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Nov 1, 2015 06:02
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Hello woodworking megathread! I am a crap woodworker. I work out of my dad's shop, which I'm trying to make safe: - Electrical grounds on all equipment/circuits - GFCI breakers when outlets/switches are near anything moist - sharpening tools which my dad NEVER does (I did not learn one could sharpen a chisel until well into my twenties  )and usable: - there's zero dust collection, sawdust gets everywhere - metalwork and wood work is done in generally the same area; there's a tendency to set piles of sawdust on fire with a welder or get grease on wood because all the vices are filthy metal-use vices. - 80% of time spent doing anything in the shop is finding the tool/part because lots of things are jumbled together. I'm also trying to not be a complete cock because I'm a guest in his shop -- even though he's very easy going, not possessive Luckily our minds are pretty similar on things like using space & sorting things out. Also he has started caring about safety a bit (or maintaining the facade that he does) because multiple people who love him keep begging him to give a poo poo. a few years ago he was ripping boards on tablesaw and took a splinter on the forehead, left a 6" scar. I keep telling him how goddamn lucky he is he didn't lose an eye. Personally i loooooove sorting things, sharpening tools, finding ways to use space efficiently. I don't actually fart around very much; I like to draw up plans and build to them perfectly, while my dad is very much a cut-to-fit guy. this means that he builds things that I personally think look like garbage but apparently most people consider ~*amazing*~ like this table  but I'm not building anything so who am I to judge? anyway here is a tall stool that ends up getting used as a work table a lot:  (the belt sander was sitting on it and has been removed for the pic) this was made for a charity auction and is drying in the kitchen:  this "toolbox" is a roughly 4' by 4' by 5' tall cube on wheels, weighs a crapton, drawers only kinda work bc it's cobbled together. the corner nearest the camera is being held up by a filing cabinet. he can just barely see the top of the Hell Cube so things get thrown up there "out of sight out of mind"  here's dad debarking some cedar branches with a draw knife that has not been sharpened in my living memory.  That's it for now! My current shop project is running more circuits.
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Nov 1, 2015 18:18
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I'm building a little pantry area in my kitchen. One side of it, I'm putting in a wall & door of 3/4" plywood (mainly because an actual stud wall would be too thick to leave room for a chest freezer). The opening for it is 54" x 96", so I can't quite make it out of a single sheet of plywood. I'm trying to figure out where would be the best place to put the seam. I numbered the places I've considered putting the seam:  #3 and #4 seem the most appealing because I don't have to do a clean corner cut. But they also seem like the most likely spots to split open with seasonal expansion/contraction. #1 seems like the best choice after that because it puts the seam in the least visible spot (half of it will be hidden by cabinets and it's in a corner that won't be super visible). Recommendations?
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Nov 1, 2015 19:16
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Zhentar posted:I'm building a little pantry area in my kitchen. One side of it, I'm putting in a wall & door of 3/4" plywood (mainly because an actual stud wall would be too thick to leave room for a chest freezer). The opening for it is 54" x 96", so I can't quite make it out of a single sheet of plywood. I'm trying to figure out where would be the best place to put the seam. Plywood doesn't expand/contract seasonally unless you hose it down or run a heater next to it.
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Nov 1, 2015 20:28
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