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peepsalot posted:I use Autodesk Fusion 360, also free. Very feature rich.
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Oct 30, 2015 13:49
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Combat Pretzel posted:PEI is Kapton, right? If so, I print on 65°C on Polyimide tape. Sticks well here. The PEI people are referring to is usually a sheet of Ultem 1000 that is adhered to the regular build plate, making it so you don't have to use any adhesives for PLA or ABS. The heated bed can remain off for PLA and you only have to run about 80C on ABS for the first two or three layers, then you stage the heat back down to 60 for the remainder of the build. There are a bunch of guides out there, but this one (if not the best) at least has the best pictures to go along with the steps (some of the better ones are for specific printers, while this one is more generic). http://www.instructables.com/id/PEI-Board-for-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS I ordered mine from Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPRDDLY/ref=biss_dp_sa1 After picking the thickness and dimensions needed for my print bed. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Oct 30, 2015 |
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Oct 30, 2015 14:10
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Oh, it's a sheet instead of tape. Also, when printing a solid layer on top of support, does the first layer count as simple perimeter/top, or is it considered bridging. I'd like Simplify3D to cake a little more material the first top solid layer than what it does right now.
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Oct 30, 2015 14:31
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Combat Pretzel posted:Oh, it's a sheet instead of tape. I just tell it to print a couple more solid top layers under the Layer tab in Advanced Settings for the process I'm using. Like if I've got 4 solid Bottom Layers and 4 Shells, I'll have 7-9 Top layers (especially for something with a curvy/wavy top surface, more Top layers is better). That print settings guide that Simplify3D posted is a really good read, too. EDIT: I think it's already been posted in this thread, but here it is again. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Oct 30, 2015 |
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Oct 30, 2015 14:44
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Hey look, servos!
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Oct 30, 2015 23:49
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CommieGIR posted:servos! You sure about that, boss?  
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Oct 31, 2015 18:05
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Bad Munki posted:You sure about that, boss? I meant to say stepper  I've been working with servos on another project.
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Oct 31, 2015 18:32
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Built a spool storage rack today with minimal woodworking skill and effort! Guess how i made the radius on top and bottom  e: made an instructable for it: http://instructables.com/id/Super-Simple-Spool-Storage-Rack/ peepsalot fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Nov 2, 2015 |
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Nov 1, 2015 02:40
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I have a glass fronted cabinet I was thinking of converting like that - closing up all the gaps I can I putting a load of desiccant in it. I print in PLA but you're tempting me to get some PETG for christmas.
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Nov 1, 2015 10:43
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I wish S3D had separate extrusion multipliers for all type of elements. My perimeters look mighty fine, but the top layer looks pretty sparse, and I want to cake only so much solid layers onto it (quadcopter, least weight). I could bump the multiplier, but it may mess with my perimeters.
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Nov 1, 2015 13:50
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Depending on your hardware and software set up, you can turn up the flow rate while printing. It's a bit of a pain to have to be sure you're there for the last few layers, but if it gets to the part you want without having to alter any of the printing values to keep the mass down, it may be your best option.
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Nov 1, 2015 15:48
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Combat Pretzel posted:I wish S3D had separate extrusion multipliers for all type of elements. My perimeters look mighty fine, but the top layer looks pretty sparse, and I want to cake only so much solid layers onto it (quadcopter, least weight). I could bump the multiplier, but it may mess with my perimeters. Try this? https://www.simplify3d.com/support/tutorials/different-settings-for-different-regions-of-a-model/
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Nov 1, 2015 15:57
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I did that for a tall piece (175mm) that I had to kick up at a near vertical angle to fit in the printbed. I set up support so it touched the piece, but only had it for the first 20mm, to give it a strong base. Once that printed the rest had zero support to save plastic and time.
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Nov 1, 2015 16:48
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Can anyone justify to me why netfabb is thousands of dollars? Does anyone use it regularly?
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Nov 1, 2015 17:15
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Wade Wilson posted:Try this?
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Nov 1, 2015 18:46
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Greatest Living Man posted:Can anyone justify to me why netfabb is thousands of dollars? Does anyone use it regularly? Nobody buys the premium version. Basic is good enough.
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Nov 1, 2015 21:31
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I'm 3d printing something that consists of a beam rotating around an axle. Is there a general rule as to how much smaller I should make the axle rod compared to the hole it goes through?
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Nov 1, 2015 23:40
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Okay, so I am bad at modeling. Here is what I will be referencing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1104164 I found a 3D model of a VW bus, but it was one of those full complicated models with interiors and stuff. I removed the interior models, and made it a solid shell. But, on the model, things like the hubcaps, bumpers, and headlights are still separate shells in the STL, so if you scale it down, the headlights don't print. I've tried opening up the model in meshmixer, using the "separate shell" command, then selecting the headlight and trying to "boolean unison" it back into the base model so it is a solid part. Every time I do this it gives me an unknown fatal error in the tool and crashes. I can't open this STL in solidworks as it has too many polygons (40000 limit in SW) and I can't for the life of me figure out zbrush. Does anybody want to give it a shot? As a second issue, there is some artifacting around the passenger side wheel well in the model. I tried to split the model in half with meshmixer, mirror it, and recombine, but at the combining point it gets all artifacty and mushy, if that makes sense. Is there an easier way to do that?
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Nov 1, 2015 23:45
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Subyng posted:I'm 3d printing something that consists of a beam rotating around an axle. Is there a general rule as to how much smaller I should make the axle rod compared to the hole it goes through? I think you need to experiment a little bit since different plastics will shrink differently, and it depends on the tolerances your printer can keep as well (layer to layer alignment will also impact how well things fit). I remember reading that holes actually become bigger as plastic shrinks, which can be a bit counter-intuitive. Personally, for fit dependant parts I usually just have a file handy and file the pieces to fit, which isn't really a problem if you're making prototypes/one offs.
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Nov 2, 2015 00:10
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The one time I leave something unattended.   Gotta put the blue tape back on, thing detached mid-print. Friend of mine prints Colorfabb XT, which is PET too, on blue tape and it seems to stick well.
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Nov 2, 2015 17:29
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Combat Pretzel posted:The one time I leave something unattended. That sucks, happened to me a couple of weeks ago with a Flashforge Dreamer. Because of bad calibration the nozzle nudged the model being printed and because of slightly too high temp on the buildplate, the model came loose and jammed itself under the nozzle. The printer didnt find this to be a problem and continued to extrude material. Found it in the morning after, a big lump of 3D-cancer that had embedded itself in the printerhead, covered both extruders and the driving belt. The printer is up and running again, but i will be really careful from now on
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Nov 2, 2015 23:40
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Combat Pretzel posted:The one time I leave something unattended. The one time you leave something unattended... Cthulhu.
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Nov 3, 2015 02:10
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Rexxed posted:The one time you leave something unattended... Cthulhu. Abstract 9/11 sculpture
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Nov 3, 2015 17:06
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Combat Pretzel posted:Gotta put the blue tape back on, thing detached mid-print. Friend of mine prints Colorfabb XT, which is PET too, on blue tape and it seems to stick well. Are you printing on a glass bed? When I'm worried about adhesion, I just run a glue stick over the glass wherever I'm going to print, and PLA and PET both stick very well.
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Nov 3, 2015 22:09
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Was doing Kapton on aluminum bed. Put blue tape back on, the PET sticks like hell on it. I doubt they'll detach during print anymore.
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Nov 4, 2015 00:00
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I've only done 10 or so prints, but I've had a much bigger problem with unsticking objects from the bed than getting them to stick. Is adhesion a problem that comes with age?
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Nov 4, 2015 00:01
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Yeah seriously, pla on good tape sticks so hard that I'm more afraid of breaking the part pulling it off then losing it halfway through the print job
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Nov 4, 2015 00:32
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bobua posted:I've only done 10 or so prints, but I've had a much bigger problem with unsticking objects from the bed than getting them to stick. Is adhesion a problem that comes with age? Its mainly a problem that comes with ABS, particularly larger objects that have more distance to warp over. Or machines with unlevel beds.
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Nov 4, 2015 00:48
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blugu64 posted:Yeah seriously, pla on good tape sticks so hard that I'm more afraid of breaking the part pulling it off then losing it halfway through the print job I've had to take a thin razor blade before and scrap the tape off the bed to get the print off.
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Nov 4, 2015 14:55
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bobua posted:Is adhesion a problem that comes with age? Not really age per se, but there are things that can reduce adhesion over time if you don't maintain the machine. For instance: after a lot of prints, the wax coating on blue tape will get worn off, and parts won't stick as well. If you replace the blue tape regularly this isn't a problem. If you allow your bed to become out-of-level, the parts won't stick in the areas where there's not enough first-layer squish. If you have a glass bed, touching it can leave finger oils on the surface that will prevent plastic from sticking in those spots. Clean it off with windex or a strong organic solvent (99% isopropanol works well) until it's spotless. I've also tried a couple of different types of glue for difficult parts. Drawing a cheap office glue stick all over the bed seems to be the best -- the parts come off with a little bit of sticky glue on the bottom, but it's washable. A 1:4 mixture of white glue and water painted onto the bed with a foam brush makes the parts stick ferociously well, so much that I've actually pulled little conchoidal chunks of glass out of the bed while trying to remove larger pieces.
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Nov 4, 2015 18:52
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CommieGIR posted:Hey look, servos! I had to switch one of those with a kysan on an extruder because it kept failing on retracts because it kept skipping on direction changes.
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Nov 4, 2015 23:29
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Picked up some of this esun PETG and it is by far the best filament I've ever used. It's better in almost every way. My overhangs and bridges have never looked so good. And the prints are way stronger than what I was getting with the expensive Madesolid PET+ ($38/lb). No smell, no warping, sticks perfectly to PEI@60C and comes off without drama. I'm in love.
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Nov 5, 2015 01:04
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Yeah just wait until supports  Also, contact sales@intservo.com re: the PETG stuff. He's an authorized US distributor and will usually cut you deals, especially if you get a little wad of it at once.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:16
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insta posted:Yeah just wait until supports I can't wait to try it. Will it run in normal PLA printers?
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Nov 5, 2015 19:20
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You gotta run it hot. I use it at the upper-end of the M2's V3b hotend temperature at 245C for the normal colors. It's happiest at 260C ... and go slow, like 40-50mm/sec with double your normal layer thickness. You *can* run it like normal plastic, thin 0.1/0.2 layers at 80-120mm/sec, but it gets a really ugly finish and loses some layer strength. It's retardo strong at 0.3mm layers, 40mm/sec, and 250-260C (depending on color). It will extrude and stick down to like 220C, but ... eh. Slow and use thin layers in that case ... The bed is really easy though, a light mist of hairspray @ 60C and it's stuck forever with zero warp and odor. edit: I make it sound really picky. You can print it with your PLA profile unmodified, assuming a heated bed. You will get much better results playing by its rules ^ It is very sensitive to a properly calibrated extrusion multiplier and first layer height though, spend time dialing that in! insta fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 19:27
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Huh, that's not my experience at all. I've been printing it at 240c, .2 layer height, 55mm/s and the finish and strength have been great. I'm also on an M2 v3b. I've only tried the white so far, got a spool of black and yellow on the way.
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Nov 5, 2015 19:39
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Print it slower, fatter, and hotter and it gets even better  Good luck with the black, you're going to have to drive it hotter than the V3b can safely do. Time for a V4!
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Nov 5, 2015 20:01
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I got some of the green eSUN PETG and it is great as well. No friggin warping. I printed with it at 233C, 70mm/s, 0.24mm layer with a 0.6mm nozzle. This is the first print with my new direct drive extruder (instead of giant bowden), the color is so pretty and no drips!
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Nov 5, 2015 20:02
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With all this love for PETG, do y'all recommend just diving right in and starting with that? I've got my rostock v2 sitting in the closet waiting for Christmas, and an e3d v6 on the way, along with a PEI sheet and some adhesive. My plan was to do abs, but will I be properly equipped to enjoy the wonderful world of PETG?
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 20:04
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Put a Hexagon or E3Dv6 on it out of the box, and you're good to start with PETG. Get that first layer dialed in perfectly, and never look back. Spend a ton of time calibrating, PETG is meticulous about good calibration.
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Nov 5, 2015 20:16
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