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BULBASAUR posted:When it comes to greenstuff, the 4 things I learned that made it way easier to do: I was tempted to try some olive oil for my molds, thought against it, but I'm glad to hear it's a sound option. Also waiting 15 mins is a tip I will have to try, thanks!
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Nov 2, 2015 04:53
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Speaking of clay sculpting, a friend got me into playing Heroclix and I've had a lot of fun with my team of Batman villains. The models are kinda crappy pre-paints so I've been slowly repainting them and it really makes a difference. Getting back to sculpting, my favorite piece is Clayface and his normal model looks disconcertingly similar to poop covered in sprinkles. I love the old Batman animated series so I decided to sculpt my own Clayface. I think it turned out okay! for reference: 
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Nov 2, 2015 05:30
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signalnoise posted:What should I add to this to finish it?
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Nov 2, 2015 06:54
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I think this is about as far as I can push this one before I start loving it up
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Nov 3, 2015 00:30
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Quick practice at painting Alpha Legion in that funky metallic style. Can't exactly follow the Forge World style due to lack of airbrush, but working up layers of Guilliman Blue seemed to work out. Might look a little better on a less visually busy model.   
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Nov 3, 2015 00:32
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That looks pretty ace if anything.
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Nov 3, 2015 00:40
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Recently got back into painting after many years off (and having been a very poor/lazy painter before). What's the best stuff to focus on picking up as a new painter? And what do people think of wet palettes? I've been using the technique linked in the OP to do one (canvas paper + wet kitchen towels), and it makes the paints dry up a lot slower but I'm concerned that it waters down stuff a bit too much sometimes. I've also been having some trouble getting good coverage with my primer without accidentally blatting away detail (some of the detailing on the gloves on the guy below got lost that way, for instance).  
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Nov 3, 2015 06:29
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I basically always use a wet palette, though I ended up shelling out the  for a nicer art store one with a sponge in it. I wouldn't worry about watering stuff down too much, it just means that you have to learn to control the amount of paint on your brush (valuable anyway) and paint slowly with glazes (can be annoying, but not the end of the world, can produce some truly stellar results as you can use all those layers to build up some really nice blends. The key is making sure you don't flood the area and waiting for your previous layer to dry (blow on it or use a hair dryer) before you apply a new one.As far as stuff to focus on picking up, my number one suggestion would be decent brushes and brush soap to keep them in good shape. It's a lot easier to put paint on a model accurately when your brush holds a sharp point. The OP doesn't mention brands, but Winsor-Newton Series 7s, Raphael 8404s, Davincis, and Rosemary & Co.s are all excellent kolinsky brushes. Mostly, I'd focus on picking up skills. Every time you start painting a miniature, figure out what you're going to focus on this time - highlighting more cleanly, blending of some sort, trying something you saw in a video or read in an article, the what isn't so much important as the simple fact of pushing yourself to do something a little differently or try something new. It's even okay if it gives you trouble - especially when you're using thin paint, it's not the end of the world if you screw something up. Just wait for it to dry and start over. You can put a lot of layers of properly thinned paint on a model before you start to lose details. Honestly, I feel like I learn more from a day of making tons of mistakes than I do from a day where something just sort of clicks for me, because the mistakes really let you dig into the process and figure out how to trouble-shoot and adapt it for the way you work. The worst thing that happens is that you try something out and don't like the way it looks, and even that's a valuable learning experience in this hobby. If you're looking for suggestions on what to work on, I'm sure the thread would be happy to fill a dump truck with them, from the super general down to the very specific, inspired by pictures of stuff you've already painted. As for priming, I don't know what primer you're using, so I can't provide super specific advice, but my general suggestion is to use as many thin coats as you feel is necessary to get decent coverage (start spraying not on the miniature, move the can past the miniature applying a layer of paint, stop spraying when you're not hitting the miniature anymore. Helps avoid annoying splatters if your nozzle gets gunked up, too). You don't need total coverage - the idea is to give your paint something with more "tooth" to it than metal, plastic, or resin to stick to. The only thing a moderate coverage primer coat forces you to do is put more effort into basecoating crevices.
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Nov 3, 2015 09:42
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Post 9-11 User posted:Oh, swapped the head for a Necromunda model and sculpted some hair? Real nice work, love how much detail you lavished on this one. The head's actually from the Reaper Chronomancer. Very nice female head. I recast tons of them for conversions.
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Nov 3, 2015 10:06
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How do you guys go about organizing your paint? Right now I have a plastic first aid kit box and another plastic container, unfortunately since it's pretty much just wide open they just slide around and I spend 10 minutes looking for what I want. Right now I'm using P3 and VGC bottles, I have a few GW somewhere that I might add if they're still any good.
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Nov 3, 2015 14:44
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Iron Crowned posted:How do you guys go about organizing your paint? I use Plano Stowaways. They are perfect for Vallejo and P3 paints. dexefiend posted:http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23730-05-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B001447AW2 I have changed how i store the P3s. If you lay them on their sides perpedicular to the walls, you can fit them in two deep. It fits a lot of paint securely. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Nov 3, 2015 |
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Nov 3, 2015 15:01
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Iron Crowned posted:How do you guys go about organizing your paint? Right now I have a plastic first aid kit box and another plastic container, unfortunately since it's pretty much just wide open they just slide around and I spend 10 minutes looking for what I want. Right now I'm using P3 and VGC bottles, I have a few GW somewhere that I might add if they're still any good. That all depends on what paint you're talking about. I have multiple methods of storage and which one something's in depends on what it is an how likely I am to use it. How much stuff do you own and how much do you plan to own?
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Nov 3, 2015 15:23
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signalnoise posted:That all depends on what paint you're talking about. I have multiple methods of storage and which one something's in depends on what it is an how likely I am to use it. Well, by Wednesday I'll have the whole P3 line (sans metallics, inks, and the two washes), so about 56 bottles of that (I think), plus I have 15 or so in the VJC so far. Not sure where I'll be going after that, but it'll probably be VJC since that's the only thing I can find locally that's not GW or your standard craft paints and/or testors garbage. Those plano stowaways seem about perfect for what I went out looking to find over the weekend honestly. I could find similar things that either had no partitions, or were way too short.
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Nov 3, 2015 15:34
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I've got a Hobby zone shelf for most of my paints. The rest are tucked away in a couple of boxes here and there in my room. But that's the stuff I rarely use so. Can take a photo of it later.
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Nov 3, 2015 15:40
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Iron Crowned posted:Well, by Wednesday I'll have the whole P3 line (sans metallics, inks, and the two washes), so about 56 bottles of that (I think), plus I have 15 or so in the VJC so far. Not sure where I'll be going after that, but it'll probably be VJC since that's the only thing I can find locally that's not GW or your standard craft paints and/or testors garbage. Get a nail polish rack in my opinion
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Nov 3, 2015 16:29
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Nail polish rack all the way.
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Nov 3, 2015 16:33
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Nail polish racks in the field:
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Nov 3, 2015 16:39
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Nail polish racks in the field: That looks great, and is a great solution if you can keep your paint out on your work space. I have to be able to put mine away when i use my office as a study space.
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Nov 3, 2015 17:02
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I've recently started keeping my travel paints in zip lock bags organized by color. So, one bag is green paints, one is red paints, one is technicals (primers, thinning gunk, etc.), one is metallics, and so on. Makes it a bit faster to grab "clotted blood" from my bag of reds rather than my previous method of box of all colors I have thought to bring with me.
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Nov 3, 2015 17:18
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signalnoise posted:I think this is about as far as I can push this one before I start loving it up I like that, but if you really want to push the details, I'd suggest putting a little more work into the highlights on the armor. This could be something as easy as a very light drybrush of silver on the edges. If you want to take more time with it, thin down some lighter metallic paint and use the edge of your brush to line-highlight the armor plates. As far as the cloak goes, it's very shiny at the moment, so it's hard to tell what you did with the highlights and shadows on it. One thing I might suggest is, hit it with a dark wash (Nuln Oil out Army Painter Dark Tone), focusing on keeping it in the crevices. The ink wash might kill a lot of the shine on the cloak on its own, but I'd also recommend a matte varnish when you're done, just to keep the whole thing from looking like plastic. Other than that, really nice work on this guy, and I like the metallic purple!
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Nov 3, 2015 17:34
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UK goons, what's the most reputable place to source airbrushes and compressors? Finally moved in to a new place and have a little corner that I can finally set up a spray booth in (likely that "portable" one you see on eBay for storage possibilities) without worrying about killing my PC / monitor.
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Nov 3, 2015 19:00
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ijyt posted:UK goons, what's the most reputable place to source airbrushes and compressors? Finally moved in to a new place and have a little corner that I can finally set up a spray booth in (likely that "portable" one you see on eBay for storage possibilities) without worrying about killing my PC / monitor. I've always got my stuff from Everything Airbrush.
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Nov 3, 2015 19:06
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So this is more than a little bit off topic, but it took me over 13 months to finish and you guys didn't seem to mind the awesome truck that was posted a few pages ago, so I thought I'd share my finally completed project of a miniature ship.   More pictures can be found in the scale model thread here - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3148869&pagenumber=167#post452273916 If you are really interested in a ton of photo's and the entire build, it's fairly well documented in that thread over the last 13+ months.
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Nov 3, 2015 19:56
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Cross posting from the 40K threadFrobbe posted:
This the first unit of models that i've ever actually finished.... basing notwithstanding. next up is finishing the datasmith for my kastelans, so i can claim two units of my ad-mech complete (not that i'm participating in any oaths, maybe i should)
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Nov 3, 2015 20:22
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TTerrible posted:I've always got my stuff from Everything Airbrush. Thanks dude, I'll check it out, and - The Locator posted:So this is more than a little bit off topic, but it took me over 13 months to finish and you guys didn't seem to mind the awesome truck that was posted a few pages ago, so I thought I'd share my finally completed project of a miniature ship.  This rocks, you rock, well worth the time!
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Nov 3, 2015 20:25
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dexefiend posted:That looks great, and is a great solution if you can keep your paint out on your work space. I have to be able to put mine away when i use my office as a study space. Kinda my same problem, although I have my dining room table as a workspace, although chances are no one will ever actually eat there, it would be nice if I had a way to squirrel away my poo poo quick if I did get a girlfriend who liked eating at tables.
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Nov 3, 2015 20:28
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The best nail polish racks are the ones you can hang on the wall. http://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Polis...ail+polish+rack
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Nov 3, 2015 20:30
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I'm a fan of HobbyZone's stuff (though shipping to the US is expensive). The painting tables are a nice size, and the modular workshop bits have lots of useful storage options. Plus, they're magnetic, so it's easy to move them around.
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Nov 3, 2015 21:04
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The Locator posted:So this is more than a little bit off topic, but it took me over 13 months to finish and you guys didn't seem to mind the awesome truck that was posted a few pages ago, so I thought I'd share my finally completed project of a miniature ship. This looks amazing. I have huge respect for ship modellers because of how in-depth all the assembly is. I've wanted to make one for my grandfather as a gift, but drat, the time commitment!
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Nov 4, 2015 01:41
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signalnoise posted:I think this is about as far as I can push this one before I start loving it up I'm going to give you some advice here and I don't want you to take it poorly because I mean well: You post in here a lot about all the different paints and modelling stuff you buy constantly but that stuff can't make up for practice. IMHO you need to step back from buying tons of various bottles of different technical paints and actually learn brush control, layering and other basic techniques. Learn to jump before you pole vault in other words.
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Nov 4, 2015 01:49
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I'm going to give you some advice here and I don't want you to take it poorly because I mean well: I mean I have no illusions of being good at this and I try things when people suggest them but if you just want me to post less I could do that
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Nov 4, 2015 02:04
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signalnoise posted:I mean I have no illusions of being good at this and I try things when people suggest them but if you just want me to post less I could do that That's not at all what Estrago is saying though. What they ARE saying is to buckle down on the basics and learn the ins and outs of miniature painting. Paint consistency, brush control, and layering are the cornerstones of the painting side of the hobby and apply to 90% of every technique you see pros use. A lot of people use some fancy stuff, sure--and I'm no exception--but a wet pallet and good brush control will get you incredibly far. All of these are learned from constant practice, as well as reading up on guides and various articles. No one is trying to discourage you here, we want you to get better. Every single painter has room for improvement, even someone like Bulbasaur or SG who are probably the best around here in terms of tiny man painters, and you have to learn to take criticism and advice without it getting personal.
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Nov 4, 2015 02:14
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But what I do is fun
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Nov 4, 2015 02:14
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signalnoise posted:I mean I have no illusions of being good at this and I try things when people suggest them but if you just want me to post less I could do that No. Post more. I hear about all this equipment, I want to see every technique and paint on every project every day. GET SERIOUS ABOUT ART. Also, I think EEB whiffed a great opportunity to talk about the thread's signalnoise ratio. I don't think he's saying 'get good, scrub'. He's just saying, you posted that fig initially before a basic wash and picking out details with a 3rd color. And the armor could still use some work--mostly because it's a unvaried coat of a metallic, which is hard to make look good. Metallics can easily dominate, and tend to confuse a surface. Infinity minis are particularly sensitive to that because their surfaces and silhouettes are fairly subtle. You can coat an Ork from GW in metallics and then dump a wash on and be good, because they're craggy and have a lot of deep recesses and tight angles which will make light reflect differently from one side of a limb to another. But an infinity mini is often smooth and has small cracks or crevices, so the light will shift gradually and the metallic quality will cause your eye to lose a lot of that detail. I think if you did a basic purple in 3 tones, going darker to lighter, and then watered down some of the metallic and use it more sparingly on the large flat areas, you could be closer to how you maybe imagined it would look when you started. Or at any rate a rad looking purple space knight. You did that chrome/copper dreadnought a while back that looked really great, and before that you had this cool experiment kind of thing with a green base and orange highlight that was very striking and interesting. And while you clearly like that kind of big-payoff approach, you'd be 3 times as dangerous if you got some basic layering down, because you've obviously got a great eye for interesting combinations, an adventurous spirit, washboard abs and fabulous hair. So given that you've done neat stuff, this guy seems sub-par for you. Anyway, I like your stuff and I think EEB is interested in what you could do with more experience, and we all love you and let's hug. e: f,b in a couple ways. Well have fun then. Just don't tell Broken Loose.
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Nov 4, 2015 02:21
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Oh, ok. Just to note, I have no way of replicating that purple in 3 shades unfortunately. That is the result of mixing silver and purple alcohol inks and painting it against the bare metal and gloss coated. But yeah I'll do some stuff with just regular acrylics for a while and see how that goes. I just had to get that guy out of my system because I haven't been able to really sit down and paint for like months and I only had a couple hours to crank that mini out.
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Nov 4, 2015 02:29
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Please help me before I lose my loving mind. I'm not new to painting minis, but I've never painted any large flat areas of white before. I seem completely unable to do so no matter what I try  Paints: VGA - Cold Grey VGA - Stonewall Grey VGA - Dead White VGA - Airbrush Thinner Method: 40k marines primed with black spray. Basecoat power armour colour airbrushed on, shoulder pads masked with putty. Remove putty, basecoat shoulder pads in Cold Grey, thinned 1:1 with airbrush thinner. Everything is fine. My intention is to layer on some Stonewall thinned 1:1 and then a final layer of Dead White 1:1 to build up a nice grey->white shoulder pad field. The reality is that at any stage beyond the Cold Grey basecoat anything I lay down turns into a chalky, bumpy mess. It looks an inch thick with enormous brushstrokes. It's almost like the last two layers seperate on contact. What is going on?! EDIT: I did not airbrush the shoulder pads separately because I had supreme overconfidence in my abilities. How hard could it be to paint some white? It's a good thing I haven't assembled 90% of the army with shoulder pads already, oh wait 
TTerrible fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 03:59
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Whites (and colors with lots of white in them) are kind of a pain in the rear end. You could try messing with the ratio you're using to thin it, and/or using matte/glaze medium if you think the binder in the paint is breaking down from being thinned too much. Another possibility is if your paint is drying too fast and then you brush back over semi-dried paint. That'll pretty much ruin the coat of paint. You might also have luck with other paints, too. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but VMC Ivory is a near-white that's supposed to be much less chalky than other whites. e: A picture of your shame might help diagnose the problem. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 04:26
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Go backwards. Start white and then shade down. Titanium is a pain in the rear end with the chalkiness. Your greys should be a bit smoother.
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Nov 4, 2015 05:03
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signalnoise posted:Oh, ok. Just to note, I have no way of replicating that purple in 3 shades unfortunately. That is the result of mixing silver and purple alcohol inks and painting it against the bare metal and gloss coated. There's a lovely post on the reaper forums about shading metallics. You can use flat colors to shade them - in your case try some dark brown. Candy-coating man-sized 28mm stuff doesn't work well precisely because the mini itself has so little 'natural' shading and we have to artificially accentuate this.
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Nov 4, 2015 11:30
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ijyt posted:UK goons, what's the most reputable place to source airbrushes and compressors? Finally moved in to a new place and have a little corner that I can finally set up a spray booth in (likely that "portable" one you see on eBay for storage possibilities) without worrying about killing my PC / monitor. The folks I work with for wargaming airbrush classes (we just had one last weekend, these are pictures of the student's work after 1 day of instruction) are the UK Badger importers and are at https://www.barwellbodyworks-shop.com
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Nov 5, 2015 00:31
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