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Okay, was playing GTA V earlier today and my computer randomly shutdown while playing. Computer rebooted itself and the UEFI displays an error. "Power supply surges detected during the previous on. ASUS Anti-Surge was triggered to protect system from unstable power supply unit." I rebooted into windows. Computer worked fine, until any game was loaded causing shutdown and aforementioned error. Is there any possibility that this is anything other than the PSU? The unit itself is old, six or seven year old Corsair 1000HX. I already purchased a Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w unit.
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Nov 3, 2015 06:08
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SlayVus posted:Okay, was playing GTA V earlier today and my computer randomly shutdown while playing. Computer rebooted itself and the UEFI displays an error. Textbook failing power supply. It can run on the low energy demands at idle, but under load it can't provide the fully capacity due to aging/worn components. You can't go wrong with a Seasonic XP3 based unit, so it will make you happy.
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Nov 3, 2015 07:48
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I'm putting an SSD into my laptop, and I want to turn its old HD into an external hard drive. It has an SATA plug. Can I just cram it into something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817392032 I have a couple further questions, mainly related to USB 2/3. So in that hard drive container up there, there's a picture of the drive connected to two USB 'holes'. Is that a thing? Does that work? Long story short, my laptop has both USB 3 and 2 ports, and there's the chance that I will need to plug this drive into a USB 2 port at some point in the future. Will this suffice? It will be powered by the USB 2 port right? I am very confused about USBs in general.
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Nov 3, 2015 12:05
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bollig posted:I'm putting an SSD into my laptop, and I want to turn its old HD into an external hard drive. It has an SATA plug. Can I just cram it into something like this: Yeah that will work fine. When you put the disk in the external enclosure you'll hook it up to 2 USB ports. One gets data and power, the other is for additional power, since USB 2.0 is rated for 500 milliamps and the drive may require a little more (sometimes they do, sometimes they don't, just use both connectors so it can source up to 10 watts instead of just 5). The SATA to USB controller in the enclosure is specifically a USB2.0 controller, so it doesn't really matter which port(s) you plug it into as it's backwards compatible. USB 2.0 is rated for 480 megabits (60 megabytes) per second. No SATA to USB controllers can handle that full speed so if you wanted more speed you could buy a USB 3.0 enclosure, but while it may be faster, that will not get you the full USB 3.0 rated speed (because it's very fast), but it will probably be better than USB 2.0. They tend to cost a little bit more, though. Your drive will also limit the speed because laptop disks just aren't that fast. I've been copying 82 gigs to a laptop disk in a USB 2.0 external enclosure for 11 hours today and it's only 60% done, so if you want to do backups with this I'd strongly suggest a USB 3.0 one.
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Nov 3, 2015 12:27
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I just want to be certain, am I likely to see a performance decrease in any form using a PCi SATA controller rather than the mobo slots? Got a nice new graphics card out of upgrading a friend's PC, but my motherboard's designed such that the new card would cover half the SATA ports.
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Nov 3, 2015 12:28
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Neddy Seagoon posted:I just want to be certain, am I likely to see a performance decrease in any form using a PCi SATA controller rather than the mobo slots? Got a nice new graphics card out of upgrading a friend's PC, but my motherboard's designed such that the new card would cover half the SATA ports. It depends on the sata card. SSDs always seem to work the best (get their rated speeds) on the Intel ports on most motherboards (the intel chipset includes a controller, the number of ports depends on which chipset you've got). Most boards have extra ports with a secondary non-Intel controller that doesn't perform as well, but is fine for spinning disks and optical drives. If you get a decent sata expansion card you get to choose if you're buying a higher end one that will provide good performance or okay performance.
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Nov 3, 2015 13:03
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Rexxed posted:It depends on the sata card. SSDs always seem to work the best (get their rated speeds) on the Intel ports on most motherboards (the intel chipset includes a controller, the number of ports depends on which chipset you've got). Most boards have extra ports with a secondary non-Intel controller that doesn't perform as well, but is fine for spinning disks and optical drives. If you get a decent sata expansion card you get to choose if you're buying a higher end one that will provide good performance or okay performance. I'm not looking for something to get bleeding edge speed out of an SSD (I only have mechanical drives), so just something with decent performance for regular use with games should be fine. The card I'm considering at the moment is an Astrotek AT-CPES6A through Scorptec (I"m in Australia), just as it looks "does its basic job fine" cheap rather than "will poo poo itself and start a fire in two months" cheap.
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Nov 3, 2015 13:39
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SlayVus posted:I already purchased a Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w unit.
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Nov 4, 2015 00:33
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e: wrong thread!
Setset fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 00:52
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Would a 750 be sufficient for SLI 980 Ti or an I better off with the 1050?
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Nov 4, 2015 01:09
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cisco privilege posted:I have a 1050 XM2 from the same general series and it owns, you won't be disappointed. Depending on how much power you use it should be pretty quiet. I think the fan on my unit has only been on 3 or 4 times. The snow silents are XP3, which is Seasonics newest top end platform. So even more baller. The super high quality FDB fan is a big plus too. Honestly if I was building a new personal computer it would be my top choice, because I'm a sucker for white. SlayVus posted:Would a 750 be sufficient for SLI 980 Ti or an I better off with the 1050? I would honestly go for the 1050. Two overclocked 980tis is about 600w, which doesn't leave much headroom for your CPU overclock and peripherals. You'll be closer to the efficiency sweet spot too, and the overbuilt components will let the fan stay off for longer.
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Nov 4, 2015 01:22
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This probably isn't a simple issue, but hopefully a simple question: My computer won't boot! Basically I'm running win 10 on an i7 4600k (I think), and my computer has been a bit wonky (problems starting) when I put in the new board. The computer will come up with the splash screen, and if I slam tab fast enough to get the splash screen gone, it will get to a point with a blinking line and that's it. NO beeps, no errors. I can't get into the BIOS, etc. What happened is my computer started making the USB connect/disconnect noise constantly, which prompted me to reboot (As it hadn't been done in a while). Is there anything to look at until I replace my PSU (By far the oldest component in the computer - Antec TruePower? Blue 600w)?
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Nov 4, 2015 18:52
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Well tab is usually used to just site what the bios is doing. Delete and F2 are the usual keys to get into the bios. See if there is a CMOS reset jumper on the motherboard. If you aren't using any kind of raid configuration, I would suggest using the CMOS reset first. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 21:20
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SlayVus posted:Well tab is usually used to just site what the bios is doing. Delete and F2 are the usual keys to get into the bios. Yeah, it switches from the splash to the actual boot screen. None of my other keys work (Both DEL and F2 go to UEFI, F11, or F12 work).
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Nov 4, 2015 22:13
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Gothmog1065 posted:Yeah, it switches from the splash to the actual boot screen. None of my other keys work (Both DEL and F2 go to UEFI, F11, or F12 work). If you trying to go from one motherboard to a new one and it is not the same chipset, you need to reinstall the OS or do some driver finalizing.
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Nov 4, 2015 22:38
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SlayVus posted:If you trying to go from one motherboard to a new one and it is not the same chipset, you need to reinstall the OS or do some driver finalizing. I did that a while back, it swapped with no issues. It's either a PSU or motherboard issue I'm gambling on. Trying to get a PSU used to test with, don't feel like ripping my wife's out. It does the same thing even with no drives attached, so it's not a drive issue. I'll Haus if I go deeper into troubleshooting, but was just seeing if anyone could think of something other than a PSU issue. e: Well, I'm a goddamn idiot. I even had the problem right in the first post. My USB Hub seems to have poo poo the bed, and when I shut down, something happened and corrupted my SSD. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 01:04
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Hey friends, I recently bought another set of 8gb Gskill trident X ram, made sure it was the exact same make and model as my previous set, only cpuz is saying the new ones are slower. exhibit A:  what did I do wrong?
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Nov 5, 2015 06:49
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4000 Dollar Suit posted:Hey friends, I recently bought another set of 8gb Gskill trident X ram, made sure it was the exact same make and model as my previous set, only cpuz is saying the new ones are slower. Are they set the same in the BIOS? Shot in the dark here. I know I had to change my XMP profile in my BIOS to get my RAM to actually hit 800mhz.
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Nov 5, 2015 08:33
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4000 Dollar Suit posted:Hey friends, I recently bought another set of 8gb Gskill trident X ram, made sure it was the exact same make and model as my previous set, only cpuz is saying the new ones are slower.
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Nov 5, 2015 12:43
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So I have acquired a tablet with a broken digitizer, however finding a replacement is impossible and the company which made it is asking for a fee that's ridiculous since it's out of warranty. So I'm thinking, since it's otherwise functional to convert it to something else useful. Is there any info out there on how to go about this? I've seen suggestions for conversion into a mini-pc, a laptop or making a TV into Smart TV, but google is just throwing garbage up.
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Nov 7, 2015 06:00
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FaustianQ posted:So I have acquired a tablet with a broken digitizer, however finding a replacement is impossible and the company which made it is asking for a fee that's ridiculous since it's out of warranty. So I'm thinking, since it's otherwise functional to convert it to something else useful. Is there any info out there on how to go about this? I've seen suggestions for conversion into a mini-pc, a laptop or making a TV into Smart TV, but google is just throwing garbage up. What operating system does it run? If it's a Windows one you can be sure that you can plug in a mouse a nd keyboard into any USB port it has to control it, but if it's Android you may or may not be able to use a mouse/keyboard over USB without confirming something on screen, requiring a working touchscreen.
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Nov 7, 2015 18:16
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Nintendo Kid posted:What operating system does it run? If it's a Windows one you can be sure that you can plug in a mouse a nd keyboard into any USB port it has to control it, but if it's Android you may or may not be able to use a mouse/keyboard over USB without confirming something on screen, requiring a working touchscreen. It's Android, running an A23 chip. Mouse is picked up and works fine, although it's over an OTG cable. Max resolution supported is 1280x800, which sounds like it's better suited to make a laptop out of then going for a Smart TV. Mini PC might be more achievable though, but I'd be looking at something awfully small. Also a bit concerned on finding a compatible screen cable.
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Nov 8, 2015 13:41
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My brother is giving me his PC since he just ordered a maxed out Dell XPS 15 and is going to just use that as his main computer now. Once he gives me his, I plan on giving mine to my dad. My question is can I just move around the SSDs with Windows 10 installations into their new respective computers? The scenario would be I take out the SSD in my current PC and drop it into the PC my brother is giving me (he would keep his SSD and throw it in an external enclosure). Then I would take the SSD from my dad's current PC and put in the PC I'm giving him. All SSDs have Windows 10 already installed. Would that work? Or would I have to clean install windows when moving the SSDs around?
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Nov 9, 2015 01:32
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teagone posted:My brother is giving me his PC since he just ordered a maxed out Dell XPS 15 and is going to just use that as his main computer now. Once he gives me his, I plan on giving mine to my dad. My question is can I just move around the SSDs with Windows 10 installations into their new respective computers? Your worst case scenario is to have to boot into safe mode to fix some drivers, probably with a Windows 10 USB drive on hand in case the drivers need to be taken off of there. Usually, it won't even need anything more than just starting it up, so long as you aren't moving between Intel and AMD
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Nov 9, 2015 01:55
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Nintendo Kid posted:Your worst case scenario is to have to boot into safe mode to fix some drivers, probably with a Windows 10 USB drive on hand in case the drivers need to be taken off of there. Usually, it won't even need anything more than just starting it up, so long as you aren't moving between Intel and AMD The Windows install won't freak out about the wrong motherboard being paired up? I thought that was one of the key things with the upgrade, it's OEM and on install it pairs with the motherboard. I remember Vista/Win7 having a shitfit moving to a new motherboard.
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Nov 9, 2015 02:40
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FaustianQ posted:The Windows install won't freak out about the wrong motherboard being paired up? I thought that was one of the key things with the upgrade, it's OEM and on install it pairs with the motherboard. I remember Vista/Win7 having a shitfit moving to a new motherboard. If they've all already had Windows 10 installed on them, then the hardware should still be valid, after it check with Microsoft.
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Nov 9, 2015 02:43
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So I hope I'm posting this question in the right place. Anyways, I was just curious how powerful a computer would you have to have in order to render one video and record footage for another (like from a Hauppauge HD-PVR, for instance) at the same time? Just curious, really.
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Nov 9, 2015 07:39
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Nintendo Kid posted:Your worst case scenario is to have to boot into safe mode to fix some drivers, probably with a Windows 10 USB drive on hand in case the drivers need to be taken off of there. Usually, it won't even need anything more than just starting it up, so long as you aren't moving between Intel and AMD Ok cool, good to know. All PCs have intel CPUs, though one PC has an AMD card, others have nvidia. I'll just be sure to uninstall video drivers before dropping in the SSDs I guess. Thanks!
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Nov 10, 2015 01:20
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I just moved, took apart my computer and cleaned out the case and whatnot. Put everything back together but now I can't fire up. When I plugged in, there was a momentary flicker of the various LEDs, (like on the GPU) and then dark. Now nothing happens if I push the power switch. On the motherboard (Asrock extreme4 z97) there's a CLRCBTN1 button. If I push that, I get the flicker again. Did I damage something during the move? Or is there some dumbass thing I probably hooked up wrong? Edit: the fans also give half a spin. Deuce fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 01:57
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Deuce posted:I just moved, took apart my computer and cleaned out the case and whatnot. Put everything back together but now I can't fire up. When I plugged in, there was a momentary flicker of the various LEDs, (like on the GPU) and then dark. Now nothing happens if I push the power switch. On the motherboard (Asrock extreme4 z97) there's a CLRCBTN1 button. If I push that, I get the flicker again. Pull the power plug, and hold down the power button for 15 or so seconds. If that doesn't work, make sure to reseat all the power cables, then remove any PCI/E or USB connections and attempt to power it again. If it doesn't power, it's possibly a bad PSU or motherboard. If it powers, add things back one by one until you find the culprit.
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Nov 10, 2015 02:57
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Surge protectors pretty standard these days? Would like to get something heavy duty for the entertainment center, even if it takes both plugs . Ps4, PC, tv, speakers, etc etc. Don't really ever lose power here though.
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Nov 11, 2015 23:42
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Surge protectors pretty standard these days? Would like to get something heavy duty for the entertainment center, even if it takes both plugs . Ps4, PC, tv, speakers, etc etc. Don't really ever lose power here though.
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Nov 12, 2015 02:30
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Any tips for a PC battery backup? Should I just spend $50 on a Best Buy special?
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Nov 12, 2015 04:08
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Crotch Fruit posted:Any tips for a PC battery backup? Should I just spend $50 on a Best Buy special? If you actually need a reliable backup power supply, never cheap out. The exact model you need will depend on how much power your system draws with the monitor and all accessories, and whether you just want "gimme 5 minutes to save and shut down" life or "I need to be able to keep going through a 3 hour blackout" life (and in the latter case, you'd want to tie modem and router into the backup as well).
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Nov 12, 2015 04:16
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Crotch Fruit posted:Any tips for a PC battery backup? Should I just spend $50 on a Best Buy special?
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Nov 12, 2015 05:22
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Crotch Fruit posted:Any tips for a PC battery backup? Should I just spend $50 on a Best Buy special?
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Nov 12, 2015 06:40
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I've got a big 1500 VA APC unit, which is as high as you can go on a 15 amp circuit. I run a few things of it but even then I could have gone for a smaller unit. Make sure to install and configure the software for it to shut your machine down if you're not there, and test it with all your programs open because some programs love to block clean shutdowns. I've got a script that taskkills the misbehaving programs I've identified that runs as part of the shutdown procedure. It also SSHs into my server as a special user to shut it down, for that I include my router and switch on the UPS.
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Nov 14, 2015 03:55
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I guess this belongs here which 128gb micro sd should I get for my surface pro 3 and GoPro?
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Nov 15, 2015 21:34
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:I guess this belongs here which 128gb micro sd should I get for my surface pro 3 and GoPro? You should get one with a high speed rating from a good manufacturer like Sandisk.
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Nov 15, 2015 21:55
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While cleaning I found some old parts in the bottom of my closet: - XFX N650 Motherboard, with 4 sticks of what I assume are 4 gigs of DDR2 ram in it. there's a CPU in it but no heatsink, probably removed for space - A never used heatsink for a Core I5 2500K - A very well used heatsink for some sort of Intel processor, it might be for the motherboard or broken who knows I don't remember why exactly I upgraded my motherboard in 2011 or so. I might have just wanted to jump from DD2 and Core 2 Duo to DDR3 and Sandy Bridge so that I could get more FPS in Peggle or whatever I was playing, but I have no idea if the motherboard and stuff still works. I assume the heatsinks aren't worth the shipping cost, the market for nearly a decade old computer parts is nothing, and there's nothing really too useful I could build with it anyway. What's a good way to dispose of this stuff so that I don't have it sit in a landfill for ages or have 3rd world children get cancer trying to salvage the heavy metals? Or is there some group I could donate it to?
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Nov 16, 2015 05:15
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