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It's going to be either the third brake light or the seal around the rear window. I never got around to fixing it on mine.
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Nov 2, 2015 04:31
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some texas redneck posted:As for your clutch, either your master or slave clutch cylinder has probably crapped out. If you're losing clutch fluid, it's the slave. If you're not, it's probably the master. The slave is a walk in the park to change on your car, the master isn't terribly difficult. Bleeding the hydraulics is the difficult part, you'll need a friend to help. After posting here, tried to drive the car and it will now no longer shift into any gears at all. It will have to be towed to the shop tomorrow. Nothing appeared to be leaking from underneath the car but it's been raining here most of the day so that doesn't mean much. Thank you for the information though- that will help narrow it down.
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Nov 2, 2015 05:47
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What happens if you start it while it's in 1st gear and not neutral (with the clutch to the floor)? If it tries to move and/or really struggles to turn over compared to neutral, then it's likely clutch hydraulics. The upside is everything is really easy to get to on your car (aside from a fairly cramped engine bay), so even having a shop do the work should be relatively cheap. Also, keep your other foot over the brake when you do this, just in case it does start and tries to take off (be ready to shut off the key as well).
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Nov 2, 2015 09:13
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Ribsauce posted:I have a 2001 Ranger. It was raining today and water was coming in the back of the cab near the roof above the rear windows. I looked at the outside of the roof and did not see any rust or holes. My only guess is the water is coming in through the brake light. What kind of shop can I take it to? Could it be something else? I don't see any rust or cracks/holes in the metal. Maybe the windows? It is on both sides of the brake light. It wasn't raining that hard but the water looked like it really coming in. Go get some of this: Flowable Silicone  It flows like water - into areas that leak. Seals them up.
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Nov 2, 2015 13:22
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What non-proprietary ECU programming tools are good? j2534 interfaces count I guess. Not the cheap little code readers, needs to be able to flash ECUs. Looking for a cheap alternative to the snap-on MODIS.
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Nov 2, 2015 16:04
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Most of the ones I've heard of are specific to a manufacturer or even model. If you're looking for something to deal with actual new vehicles, that's problematic. They've been encrypting that poo poo for years now, and it can take a while (months or even a year or two) for the programmer companies to crack it.
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Nov 2, 2015 16:23
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DELETED posted:What should I used to keep a couple of bolts from backing out of O2 sensor bungs? Road salt. (but seriously, split washers should do fine) IllegallySober posted:Well, the previous owner had put an after-market exhaust system on there so to be fair it's loud all the time. Not quite one of those coffee-can exhaust systems, it's quieter than that, but still. They just didn't seem like they really knew what to do with it at all. I might take it to a different emissions location and see if they can get a reading. You keep on dribbling in information which adds up to this car being an unholy abortion. The shop you went to wasn't incompetent: they do not want this business. It can only end in them losing money and having a pissed off customer. They were just trying to tell you without telling you that.
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Nov 2, 2015 17:16
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Godholio posted:Most of the ones I've heard of are specific to a manufacturer or even model. If you're looking for something to deal with actual new vehicles, that's problematic. They've been encrypting that poo poo for years now, and it can take a while (months or even a year or two) for the programmer companies to crack it. im familiar with the proprietary ones, i was an ECU tech at MOPAR. I know j2534 exists but not how much it lets you do, and im aware of some of the more powerful ones like the MODIS. just wondered if anyone was familiar with them, or used them because they didnt want a set of oem specific ones, or if there was a class favorite.
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Nov 2, 2015 18:18
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Motronic posted:You keep on dribbling in information which adds up to this car being an unholy abortion. Not a shop; an emissions testing station. That's all they do here in Washington.
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Nov 2, 2015 19:48
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BlackMK4 posted:I would have assumed the RPM read off the crank angle sensor, which is why I tried that first. The truck has always had weirdness about reading 0 at idle on the tach occasionally, so I think that's just coincidental. As an update to this - blown headgasket on cylinder 1. ~40k miles on the truck, well taken care of. 
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Nov 2, 2015 20:12
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some texas redneck posted:What happens if you start it while it's in 1st gear and not neutral (with the clutch to the floor)? Tried this when I got back to it and it did indeed struggle to start but once it did start it began to move. Still couldn't shift from whatever gear it was in when I started it. Hydraulics are cheaper than replacing the whole clutch, I hope?  At least I was able to get the car up onto the flatbed truck to tow it so that was nice.
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Nov 2, 2015 21:20
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I think the people at JiffyLube bent my oil pan. Now I can see one side of the plug isn't quite crushing the washer and sealing. Is there anything I can do to fix it without more than basic hand tools?
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Nov 2, 2015 23:18
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I think the people at JiffyLube bent my oil pan. Now I can see one side of the plug isn't quite crushing the washer and sealing. Is there anything I can do to fix it without more than basic hand tools? Make/model? If the oil pan is readily accessible from under the car I'd just replace it. Shouldn't require any more tools than an 8 or 10mm socket, extension and ratchet, tube of RTV and a scraper/wire brush to clean up the mating surface on the bottom of the block.
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Nov 3, 2015 02:42
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temporarily, you can use a "Pan saver" drain plug. they have a pretty big rubber gasket. They're like :5bux: at the parts store.
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Nov 3, 2015 02:58
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IllegallySober posted:Tried this when I got back to it and it did indeed struggle to start but once it did start it began to move. Still couldn't shift from whatever gear it was in when I started it. Hydraulics are cheaper than replacing the whole clutch, I hope? Lucky for you, the slave cylinder is mounted to the outside of the transmission bellhousing, so it's just a couple of bolts and disconnecting the line to swap it. Probably 15 minutes of work, plus a little more to bleed it (though most shops charge a minimum of 1 hour). If it's the master, it's a bit more involved, but not terrible. The slave cylinder on my Civic failed in such a way that it wasn't leaking, but it was letting air in, so it would feel fine for a couple of days after bleeding it, then the clutch would stop working until it was bled again. I think it took me about 10 minutes to swap it. You have a much bigger engine in roughly the same size engine bay, so it'll be a bit more cramped, but I doubt they'll have to remove anything other than the radiator fan and maybe upper radiator hose (it's been a long time since I was under the hood of a Prelude though). The only other failure it could be would be the throwout bearing, but you would have noticed some pretty terrible noises anytime you had your foot on the clutch, and the pedal would have felt really odd for quite some time (months) before it seized entirely. If it does wind up being that, then you may as well replace the clutch, since the transmission has to come off anyway. But those don't usually give out suddenly, it's usually several months of the clutch feeling weird and hearing some ugly noises. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Nov 3, 2015 |
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Nov 3, 2015 04:03
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0toShifty posted:Go get some of this: Flowable Silicone
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Nov 3, 2015 05:38
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Gray Matter posted:Help me goons, I'm at the end of my rope! The nightmare is over.
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Nov 3, 2015 11:38
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Gray Matter posted:Well after 2 months of headache my problem finally resolved itself and I was able to pass emissions. I also have empirical evidence leading me to believe that the "manufacturer drive cycle" is bullshit. Seafoaming the intake caused a pending code to set for lean mixture at upstream O2 sensor, so during a cold start I reset OBD codes and headed for the highway - within 4 minutes of <40 mph driving getting there, all monitors except catalyst were set - something that should not have happened according to GM drive cycle requirements. ~40 miles of 66mph highway later with the catalyst monitor still incomplete, I pulled into a parking lot where I sat for about a minute in drive with the brake pressed, and catalyst monitor readied itself. GM spent as little as possible on the Cavalier so that isn't super surprising. They're kind of a reviled car (sorry) and despite them being so ubiquitous not long ago I don't see them on the road much anymore or even their replacement, the Cobalt.
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Nov 3, 2015 12:08
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If an automatic transmission pan doesn't have a magnet in it, is there any reason that I shouldn't put one in there?
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Nov 3, 2015 18:35
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I'm an absolute car idiot. If you told me that my headlights need a fluid change, I'd ask for the premium stuff. I took my car in for maintenance a week ago. Put about 1000 miles on it since then for a trip to Vegas over the weekend. Yesterday morning, my car wouldn't start. Headlights weren't on or anything. Apparently there was an internal short in the battery. Is this a plausible explanation? Would that be the kind of thing that gets checked during maintenance or is it the kind of thing that fails suddenly?
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Nov 4, 2015 01:21
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Yes it's plausible, and no there's basically no way to know it until you get stranded or maybe have some weird electrical gremlins (but usually I think it'd just suddenly be dead). It's just a bad battery. How old was the battery?
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Nov 4, 2015 01:23
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Godholio posted:Yes it's plausible, and no there's basically no way to know it until you get stranded or maybe have some weird electrical gremlins (but usually I think it'd just suddenly be dead). It's just a bad battery. How old was the battery? A few years old and I live in Phoenix. So I guess that sounds about right. Thanks!
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Nov 4, 2015 01:29
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I have a 2009 Mazda 3 i, 2.0, automatic, with about 82,000 miles. First question - on my speedometer, there's an LED indicator that says which gear the transmission is in. I've noticed that when I accelerate, it will drop down one or two gears for a second before catching back up. Is this normal? I'm not sure if I just never noticed it before. I don't feel the transmission slipping, and my transmission fluid is good and at the right level. Second question: I'm trying to diagnose a quiet humming/buzzing when I accelerate, it isn't that drastic but I can feel the "buzzing" in the gas pedal with my foot, and I know it feels different from before. It goes away once I reach a cruising speed and seems to come from the engine/front end. Recently I have changed the spark plugs, air filter, oil, oil filter, and gotten a fuel system and throttle plate cleaning since it was due for all of this, but the humming/buzzing existed before all of that. SweetMercifulCrap! fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 01:48
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The Car: 2001 Chevy Cavalier, 4 cyl 2.2 automatic The Issue: She's making this weird... gurgling noise. Like, it sounds like water being poured into a glass, or a drip coffee-maker. The Details: From the driver's seat, it sounds like it's coming from the defrost vents or dash; whatever it is, it's real close to the firewall/cabin. Happens most often when first starting her cold, and doing low speed in the few blocks it takes to get out of my neighborhood. Once she's on the main drag and doing 40+ mph, it goes away. Only happens while pushing the gas, not while idling/coasting/braking. She's running fine, but the noise has gotten more prominent in the past few weeks, and if it's a sign of something about to keel over, I'd like to nip it in the bud before winter hits. The weather has gotten a bit chillier here in Virginia, but nothing near freezing or anything, for what that's worth. Any ideas? edit: just scrolled up the thread and saw the Cavalier chat (what up, Gray Matter? [Cav owner fistbump]). Reviled and underbudgeted she may be, but my girl's been nothing but a champ for the 12 years I've owned her.  (Of course, I live in a state that doesn't do emissions testing...)
JacquelineDempsey fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 01:52
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sweetmercifulcrap posted:I have a 2009 Mazda 3 i, 2.0, with about 82,000 miles. It's downshifting to give you more acceleration, then up shifting once you're done so the engine runs more efficiently.
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Nov 4, 2015 01:57
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Uthor posted:It's downshifting to give you more acceleration, then up shifting once you're done so the engine runs more efficiently. Ah, thank you. I don't know how I never noticed the indicator doing that until now!
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Nov 4, 2015 01:58
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JacquelineDempsey posted:The Car: 2001 Chevy Cavalier, 4 cyl 2.2 automatic How is the coolant level? Is the carpet (usually on the passenger side) wet? Any unusual sweet smell or fog on the windshield?
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Nov 4, 2015 02:14
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Dr. Arbitrary posted:A few years old and I live in Phoenix. Batteries have hilariously short lifespans here. If you're lucky you might hear the car laboring a bit more than it should to crank, but otherwise they don't give much of a hint before they're toast.
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Nov 4, 2015 02:42
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rdb posted:How is the coolant level? Is the carpet (usually on the passenger side) wet? Any unusual sweet smell or fog on the windshield? Coolant level's fine (in fact I just got a coolant flush job done with my last oil change since the poor girl hadn't seen some fluid love in forever). I'm pretty hyper-aware of any smells, dripping, or leakage after driving my previous car, a Ford Probe nicknamed "The Sieve" because.. well, you can figure that out. She ain't leaking anything I'm aware of. But now that you mention it, the interior windshield has been pretty assed-up, but I chalked that up to the fact that both my bf and I smoke, which will make the inside part of the windshield schmutzy and slow to de-fog, depending on the weather. What're you thinking?
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Nov 4, 2015 02:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:Batteries have hilariously short lifespans here. If you're lucky you might hear the car laboring a bit more than it should to crank, but otherwise they don't give much of a hint before they're toast. This is my experience in South Texas as well. If I'm lucky I'll get a slow crank before it fails, allowing me to stop at the auto parts store first. Three years and some change is about the duration I see here. My experience is a bit severe, as the underhood temperatures on TJs can be ridiculous in the summer.
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Nov 4, 2015 04:01
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I moved to a cold midwestern state and was wondering if it's worth it to do some sort of rust prevention for my truck or if it's better to wash it whenever possible or just to say gently caress it it's all doomed anyway. It's a 09 tacoma.
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Nov 4, 2015 04:14
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A Kpro posted:I moved to a cold midwestern state and was wondering if it's worth it to do some sort of rust prevention for my truck or if it's better to wash it whenever possible or just to say gently caress it it's all doomed anyway. It's a 09 tacoma. If you do good rust prevention that poo poo works. Good meaning drill holes in frames fill with oil and plug. I live in western ny the land of snow and salt my parents got their accord rustproofed and after 13 there wasn't any major rust.
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Nov 4, 2015 04:24
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My dad's car (2015 MB E350) has a bubble on the tire. From the damage on the rim, I assume he hit the curb pretty hard and damaged the sidewall. My question is, does this need to be replaced -- and how serious is it if he keeps driving on this? (Apologies in advance for the quality of these photos)  
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Nov 4, 2015 06:14
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Chuu posted:My dad's car (2015 MB E350) has a bubble on the tire. From the damage on the rim, I assume he hit the curb pretty hard and damaged the sidewall. My question is, does this need to be replaced -- and how serious is it if he keeps driving on this? Yes. That bubble is the layers of the tire separating. It will make the wheel vibrate, it will spread, and it will eventually cause the tire to fail. It is small now, but give it a few months and it becomes a bigger problem; the larger the blister, the weaker the rubber is getting. That wheel is probably toast, too, if it is not steel.
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Nov 4, 2015 06:40
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Wheel will probably be fine, if it hasn't cracked at worst it might be slightly bent and would need repair (kinda tricky and there's wrong ways to do it, replacement is the preferred option if it's damaged) The sidewall bubble is a safety issue, it will pop, and it will do so when the tire's being stressed so more likely to cause an accident when it does eventually fail. Safest course is to replace immediately and inspect the wheel while the tire's off. Take it as a lesson for him and please don't endanger others on the road by continuing to drive on that tire.
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Nov 4, 2015 07:06
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Agreed on the wheel (well, tire too, just adding my 2 cents on the wheel). At least in my experience, alloy wheels tend to shatter instead of bending, so he'll most likely just have some curb rash to live with. Someone paying attention when the new tire gets mounted and balanced will be able to notice if it's actually bent.
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Nov 4, 2015 08:15
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JacquelineDempsey posted:Coolant level's fine (in fact I just got a coolant flush job done with my last oil change since the poor girl hadn't seen some fluid love in forever). I'm pretty hyper-aware of any smells, dripping, or leakage after driving my previous car, a Ford Probe nicknamed "The Sieve" because.. well, you can figure that out. She ain't leaking anything I'm aware of. But now that you mention it, the interior windshield has been pretty assed-up, but I chalked that up to the fact that both my bf and I smoke, which will make the inside part of the windshield schmutzy and slow to de-fog, depending on the weather. What're you thinking? Leaking heater core or a clogged AC condensate drain. It may also be from the coolant flush, if they did not get all of the air out of the system.
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Nov 4, 2015 13:44
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Speaking of replacement wheels, does anyone know of a good size for on road truck use that I could use on the 6 hole bolt pattern for a 87 mazda b2000? Looks like OEM size is 14", and there's not really much choice in truck tires at that size. Alternatively if someone knows what the gently caress that bolt pattern is called that would be helpful since I'll likely go for some used ones regardless due to cash flow issues.
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Nov 4, 2015 15:58
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According to this page it's 6x139.7 aka 6x5.5.
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Nov 4, 2015 17:05
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So last Friday my Volvo 740 had a major radiator failure three miles from my house that resulted in me replacing the entire radiator and putting in new coolant once the thing limped home. Problem now is that the dash heat gauge is pegged all the way to the right when the electricals engage, even though the engine was sitting cold for the weekend. I've made sure there aren't any bubbles in the coolant system, I'm not getting any check engine lights, and the engine seems to be running normally (aside from some stalling on start, but that's always been a problem.) Since I'm not getting any CE lights and the engine doesn't seem to be running worse, is it possibly just the gauge sensor that's hosed, or is it more likely the primary temperature sensor? I ask because on this model car, one of these things is much easier to access than the other and I don't want to replace the main sensor if I don't have to.
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Nov 4, 2015 18:43
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