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the spyder posted:God drat it. I just got talked into 5 more projects. Expect idiocy to come as the weather get's colder and wetter. Only doing it to fund the 20B project. Are these organised in sequence with contracts or are 5 terrible neglected heaps going to turn up on the same day and develop new things to do as they progress?
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Nov 6, 2015 18:17
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Cakefool posted:Are these organised in sequence with contracts or are 5 terrible neglected heaps going to turn up on the same day and develop new things to do as they progress? Two are previous cars I've worked on that need issues sorted. These should only take a day each at most. One is a unknown, it was passed to me by Rob@Pineapple due to white smoke coming from the turbos. Two are contract jobs, the first being a 8k-been in storage 10 years- get it running project. The second is a rescue from a shop that had no idea what they were doing. Funny enough I just got asked to look at two FC's, but they sound like basket cases, so I'll probably pass on them.
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Nov 6, 2015 18:48
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Octopus Magic posted:If you're going to paint the calipers red (which I kinda am not into), at least take some sand paper to the Mazda letters so they're silver. Like this from the last page? 
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Nov 6, 2015 18:50
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Sorry, kinda not into that 
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Nov 6, 2015 19:37
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I've got a trombone brush somewhere for those sunroof drains, bought it for the poor miatas. Even if they've been blown out, I bet a brush would do a world of good.
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Nov 6, 2015 20:03
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For some reason i didn't see that. I think black would've been better.
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Nov 6, 2015 20:03
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Octopus Magic posted:For some reason i didn't see that. I think black would've been better. You're the worst. Spyder those look nice.
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Nov 7, 2015 01:42
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Octopus Magic posted:For some reason i didn't see that. I think black would've been better. Lol. Make it silver!.... Black is better!
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Nov 7, 2015 02:56
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Lol. Make it silver!.... Black is better! You're all cretins, blue is the best caliper color see: bmw M4 
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Nov 7, 2015 12:24
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Ummmmmm, I think you mean gold!
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Nov 7, 2015 16:36
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Arguing over best colour??? Really? Since when is "Brake dust from hard use" not the correct answer?
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Nov 8, 2015 11:26
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Red calipers were OEM on 99' vehicles. /color opinions Back to our randomly scheduled non-sense. Shop stuff: My old Wilton vise is dicker'd.     The plan is to machine the jaw seats in hopes of making it somewhat decently usable until I can find another. 99' conversion update: Painted the rear calipers and got my "new" steering wheel.    Like all eBay things, this was disgusting.  I had to scrub it three times to get the buildup off. My guess would be a female Miata owner.   The new new wheel needed the clock spring detents rotated.  Now I just have to wait for the airbag.  93 R1 rebuilder update: Painters suck. I'm still trying to find a decent one. I did decide to start it after it had been sitting. Started right up and ran great.     93 Silver Touring update: I still hate previous shops. I was getting ready to install a catless downpipe and found the primary heat shield missing from the turbos... This means I get to pull the bloody turbos. God drat it. I hate pulling them in the car. Also, loose bolts everywhere, hacked OMP wiring, swollen coolant hoses and heater hose used as blow off valve tubing. Ugh...       And let's welcome two projects. This 94 R2 has been owned by a forum member and at least 4 other people I know. It's here for some new turbo oil feed o-rings. Not a huge project, but a project none the less.   This 94 Monetego blue FD was picked up from another shop after the owner decided they were no longer able to complete the project. It's missing parts, getting tons of work done etc, etc. More on this one later.    Some should be happy to hear I turned down one of the previously mentioned projects, but there's still two more waiting (plus another 3 if I really want to torture myself). At least I will be busy this winter. the spyder fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 00:13
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Hey that's my old car! I could swear I did these oil rings at some point in one of the cars that I put that engine into. Ohh wait, one of the kids who had their hands on it blew up the motor right? I guess the turbos might have gotten changed too. Is the wastegate ported? Poor FDs. Always always always abused by some massive list of previous owners. I think there was one 2 or 3 before me.
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Nov 10, 2015 06:22
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the spyder posted:Shop stuff: My old Wilton vise is dicker'd. h-how? how do you even damage that?!
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Nov 10, 2015 14:31
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Y'know, I've always had a love affair with the FD. I've always wanted a FD TT. I think they're just gorgeous cars, they sound great and they're like special little snowflakes up here in Ontario. After reading all of this thread, I know they are now the hight of masochism. We need to get a special one for 14 INCH.
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Nov 11, 2015 01:13
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literally a fish posted:h-how? how do you even damage that?! I did not, PO abuse. It was only really apparent when I installed the new jaws.
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Nov 11, 2015 17:34
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MA-Horus posted:Y'know, I've always had a love affair with the FD. I've always wanted a FD TT. I think they're just gorgeous cars, they sound great and they're like special little snowflakes up here in Ontario. There is definitely a self-hate factor in my love of these cars.
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Nov 11, 2015 17:35
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This thread is fantastic, I read the whole thing in one sitting. Thank you so much for doing the good work in maintaining these gorgeous cars. One of my dream cars is a white FC3s, but being 6'4 I don't think I would fit in any iteration of the rx7's 
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Nov 11, 2015 21:12
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This post brought to you by rainbows:    Now back to regularly scheduled previous owner bull poo poo. I finished up the red FD. Turns out the bolts were finger tight on the turbo oil feed lines....    And somewhere around here is where the car lashed out and bit me. I was removing the turbo coolant lines and the wrench slipped, driving my palm into the ABS heat shied. I ended up with a 1/4"x1.5" piece of skin missing from the lower center of my palm. Thankfully it only got the top layers of skin and did not cut completely through- it was close though. Once bandaged up (electrical tape and a blue shop towel worked great) I finished the job with the help of two buddies that were over.   Car was sold to the kid having recently "Rebuilt turbos"  While it was racked we noticed pretty much every under tray is missing. 2/3 chassis braces were missing. Bumper zip tied on. No mounts for the air box, no clamps on the intake piping. The oil level sender was broken off. Dozens of missing or wrong bolts. The throttle body warmup system was bypassed, making bleeding the coolant a bitch. There was even this sweeeeeet single piece cat/exhaust recently welded in. This was once a sweet car  No more oil leaks.   I shall now call you the "red devil", for only a select few have drawn blood to the extent that I needed stitches. Let me take this moment to WARN you about Liquid Stitches. Never. loving. Again. They burned like unholy hell. I've never felt more like I was going to vomit or pass out at the same time. I ended up working from home Monday due to being one handed and still woozy. Such are the joys of working on ~20 year old Japanese cars. the spyder fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 17, 2015 23:51
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Aw, poor car. Whoever butchered that thing has a place in hell waiting for them.
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Nov 18, 2015 00:07
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the spyder posted:Shop stuff: My old Wilton vise is dicker'd. You appear to be in some luck as this may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k6n9-IaWfk
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Nov 18, 2015 21:01
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extreme_accordion posted:You appear to be in some luck as this may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k6n9-IaWfk My guess is the key or keyway is totally shot. One of those things, luckily, is replaceable.
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Nov 18, 2015 21:18
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Bringing things back to coolant flush methods... I've had to put 25-30 gallons of water through a block to get it to run even slightly clear before. Ten years of cast iron exposed to old acidified coolant (possibly with tap water mixed in by previous owners) is enough to leave a lot of sediment and rust in there. Like everyone said, just tip it as far forward as you can and blast it with compressed air before finishing the flush with distilled water. Fun trick - if you ever need to get coolant drained below the level of a water pump or thermostat opening so that the gasket surface will dry and the RTV or gasket shellac will adhere properly, soak a paper towel or rope in water and drape it from inside the cooling system to outside and below. It'll act like a siphon.
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Nov 18, 2015 22:16
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Commodore_64 posted:My guess is the key or keyway is totally shot. One of those things, luckily, is replaceable. The two videos are just tear down and pretty up. There may or may not be valuable vice information.
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Nov 18, 2015 22:35
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extreme_accordion posted:The two videos are just tear down and pretty up. There may or may not be valuable vice information. It may or may not help you out with your vise, as well. 
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Nov 18, 2015 22:42
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I haven't posted a vise update because... well. It's really, really buggered. Our machinist buddy looked at it and his only suggestion is to machine the jaw seats to make it somewhat usable. The keyway is fine, the key is fine. I have no idea how they rotated the front, but the damage is done.
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Nov 18, 2015 23:22
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Try rotating it back with a really big rear end pipe wrench? Now you have an excuse to buy this... http://www.harborfreight.com/48-inch-steel-pipe-wrench-1133.html (I have been looking for an excuse to buy their 4 footer for years. No luck so far.)
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Nov 18, 2015 23:26
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$42?? Holy crap that's cheap. Even better with a 20/25% off coupon. Why would you need any other reason other then AWESOME.
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Nov 19, 2015 00:41
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kastein posted:Try rotating it back with a really big rear end pipe wrench? I just want to go buy that thing and stare down the cashier the entire time.
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Nov 19, 2015 02:54
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kastein posted:Bringing things back to coolant flush methods... I've had to put 25-30 gallons of water through a block to get it to run even slightly clear before. Ten years of cast iron exposed to old acidified coolant (possibly with tap water mixed in by previous owners) is enough to leave a lot of sediment and rust in there. Like everyone said, just tip it as far forward as you can and blast it with compressed air before finishing the flush with distilled water. Not that anyone cares but after worrying so much - my flush (with distilled but I realize a garden hose would probably be fine) and fill the car made it fine over 1200 miles and the temp gauge didn't move a bit even averaging 80-85. So glad I tackled the job maybe just some sludge in the system?
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Nov 19, 2015 03:22
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Coolant has pH buffers in it already, a very small amount of tap water left behind after a garden hose flush won't turn the inside of your engine into the Titanic.
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Nov 19, 2015 19:46
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Sorry, a lot of us have Dexcool PTSD
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Nov 19, 2015 20:16
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EightBit posted:Coolant has pH buffers in it already, a very small amount of tap water left behind after a garden hose flush won't turn the inside of your engine into the Titanic. Depends on where you live. If you have extremely hard water, it can put a lot of unnecessary dissolved alkali and alkali earth metals into the system, which will leave nasty white chunky deposits everywhere.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:34
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The only "bad" looking stuff that came out of it was milky white, so I'm thinking when I had it serviced right after I got the car they used regular water...
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Nov 19, 2015 21:30
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kastein posted:Depends on where you live. If you have extremely hard water, it can put a lot of unnecessary dissolved alkali and alkali earth metals into the system, which will leave nasty white chunky deposits everywhere. San Antonio has some of the hardest water in the nation, and the residual amount from flushing can't crust up a whole cooling system. Wait, are you guys filling up with half tap water half coolant, instead of the pre-mix stuff? It costs just a bit more, but you don't have to gently caress around with measuring it out and you get the ratio perfect. It's sold 50/50 down here, which is perfect for the heat we get.
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Nov 20, 2015 02:05
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50/50 is not the perfect ratio for everyone, and you're paying over twice the price for half the amount of coolant. A gallon of distilled water is <$1 most places.
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Nov 20, 2015 02:35
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mafoose posted:50/50 is not the perfect ratio for everyone, and you're paying over twice the price for half the amount of coolant. A gallon of distilled water is <$1 most places. I paid 88cents a gallon at Walmart and yes 50/50 coolant is a ripoff you are paying the basically $5+ dollars per half gallon of WATER
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Nov 20, 2015 04:15
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If you work somewhere that gets water bottles delivered from Arrowhead/Sparkletts/Nestle/etc for the office coolers, hang around on delivery day and tell the dude you need a couple of 5gal distilled for reasons. Odds are he has a few, otherwise he'll bring them next time.
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Nov 20, 2015 10:07
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EightBit posted:San Antonio has some of the hardest water in the nation, and the residual amount from flushing can't crust up a whole cooling system. Wait, are you guys filling up with half tap water half coolant, instead of the pre-mix stuff? A lot of FPOs will go "whatever, water's water" and top off their low cooling system with tap water every few weeks, forever, while it slowly consumes coolant through a head gasket or LIM leak. So basically who knows how many gallons of water have been consumed by their engine, slowly, while depositing their lovely lime all over the everything. It's the only explanation I have for the abysmal condition of the cooling systems on most of the awful beater cars I've looked at in the JY. Most well cared for cars seem to have better looking coolant.
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Nov 20, 2015 15:37
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Raluek posted:It may or may not help you out with your vise, as well. It's a fun form of ADD and Dyslexia that you constantly write the wrong word when you know the correct one to use! So their! (there) "Always put salt in your eyes." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R15LkyO8gq8
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Nov 20, 2015 20:11
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