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Dumb question: If I've primed some guys with primer that flakes off easily, what's the best way to fix that so I can re-prime them? e: Or maybe I'm handling them too soon after the primer dries? I waited about 10 minutes to check on them. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Nov 8, 2015 |
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Nov 8, 2015 22:55
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e: ^^^ you should wait at least a half hour or so for primer to dry and cure before handling it or painting over it. Spray can primer may take longer than that, and in the cooler weather or if you're letting it dry outside in the cold/damp/wet it'll take longer. Just let the models degas outside so the fumes dissipate and then bring them inside into the warm. KFJ posted:I have a few Leman Russes I'm going to paint next, but I think I'll do a camo pattern on them in a lighter grey color. Something similar to this, but wavy instead of jagged because I'm lazy: If you tear wide masking tape or use poster tack/silly putty, you get a nice feathered edging, even with a spray can. Just do each stripe or section at a time. Typhus Corrosion drybrushed or sponged with red or orange paint comes out really well aynd is easier/cleaner to apply than pigments. it's not as realistic, though
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Nov 8, 2015 23:19
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krushgroove posted:e: ^^^ you should wait at least a half hour or so for primer to dry and cure before handling it or painting over it. Spray can primer may take longer than that, and in the cooler weather or if you're letting it dry outside in the cold/damp/wet it'll take longer. Just let the models degas outside so the fumes dissipate and then bring them inside into the warm. Ok, I'll leave em for a while. I think I'm getting myself paranoid since I spent like 3 months off-and-on cleaning up these minis to paint. Followup: I know primer that looks glossy is too thick, but how glossy are we talking about? I primed my bases in Army Painter black and they're a bit satiny looking. I'm not too worried, since they're just the bases, but I want to be sure I'm doing this right for the future.
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Nov 8, 2015 23:30
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Well gently caress, your tank looks a lot more impressive than my tank.     
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Nov 8, 2015 23:32
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Ensign Expendable posted:Well gently caress, your tank looks a lot more impressive than my tank. It absolutely doesn't - The upper tank is my tank, the lower tank is an official Forgeworld product picture. Your tanks look great!
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Nov 8, 2015 23:37
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Avenging Dentist posted:Ok, I'll leave em for a while. I think I'm getting myself paranoid since I spent like 3 months off-and-on cleaning up these minis to paint. Ensign Expendable posted:Well gently caress, your tank looks a lot more impressive than my tank. Pretty sure the pictures is what KFJ wants to get close to, and it's not actually their tank.
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Nov 8, 2015 23:37
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I realized that my question would probably be better asked by posting an actual picture, so here's the bases (note that I boosted the brightness/contrast a bit in Photoshop so that you can actually see things): I'll post more about these when I paint em and people can actually see the details, since I did them all from scratch, and most of them took an evening each.
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Nov 8, 2015 23:40
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I meant gun-wise, 47 mm guns aren't that impressive compared to whatever the hell that is.
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Nov 8, 2015 23:40
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Ensign Expendable posted:I meant gun-wise, 47 mm guns aren't that impressive compared to whatever the hell that is. Whatever the hell that is is going to be bizarrely calibered and fire rounds that make no sense. Nothing in Imperial Armour makes sense.
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Nov 8, 2015 23:44
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I went to a reasonably large IPMS model show yesterday, and there were some very impressive figures. Is it appropriate to post pictures of figures that I have nothing to do with (other than the photo's) in this thread, or does anyone even want to see photo's of figures not done by goons? I'm still working on the editing/cropping/resizing, but thought I'd ask for whenever I finish. Also, my boat won 1st place in Surface Ships, and Best Ship across all ship categories, I was pretty stoked.
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Nov 9, 2015 00:46
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Ensign Expendable posted:Well gently caress, your tank looks a lot more impressive than my tank. No offense to the parties involved, but I prefer your tank to 2 shades-of-grey tank.
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Nov 9, 2015 00:53
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The Locator posted:I went to a reasonably large IPMS model show yesterday, and there were some very impressive figures. Is it appropriate to post pictures of figures that I have nothing to do with (other than the photo's) in this thread, or does anyone even want to see photo's of figures not done by goons? I'm still working on the editing/cropping/resizing, but thought I'd ask for whenever I finish. Post many pictures.
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Nov 9, 2015 00:54
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A few sample shots (and probably some of the best honestly). I still have a metric ton of editing/re-sizing to do. This guy got Best Figure, all categories.  The entry form on this one said it was the entrants first time doing a female figure, and first time trying to do translucent clothing and tatoo's.     And this one isn't a figure, but I thought you guys would appreciate the painting. The face is about 3 to 4" high.  Sneaking in a boat picture.  
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Nov 9, 2015 03:17
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Nice stuff! Not quite the same quality, but got some of my raiders mostly painted. They still need a few things and some touching up, and the fellow with the metal arm needs to have an infusion of color(probably changing the color of one of his knee patches to red or something) but I'm loving them so far! Love Edgar Ramos' sculpting.      
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Nov 9, 2015 04:14
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X-Post from reaper thread. Bones I Cthulu, still WIP:
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Nov 9, 2015 05:08
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:No offense to the parties involved, but I prefer your tank to 2 shades-of-grey tank. That's why I try to avoid Panzergrau, it just looks so boring, especially when there are more fun camo options.
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Nov 9, 2015 05:19
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Finished my Sternguard Veterans today and got around to basing my techmarine and venerable dreadnought. Except for the veteran holding the heavy flamer, the rest have magnets in their wrists so I can swap combi weapons.   
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Nov 9, 2015 05:25
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KFJ posted:So, I just painted my first model in years, a Griffon! I'm starting an IG armored company, and this is basically the color scheme I'm going for: 
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Nov 9, 2015 06:18
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The Locator posted:I went to a reasonably large IPMS model show yesterday, and there were some very impressive figures. Is it appropriate to post pictures of figures that I have nothing to do with (other than the photo's) in this thread, or does anyone even want to see photo's of figures not done by goons? I'm still working on the editing/cropping/resizing, but thought I'd ask for whenever I finish. gently caress yes! To both more pics and you winning. I watched that thing come along from the start and it's really good to see it get some recognition out in the real world.
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Nov 9, 2015 06:46
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Ilor posted:Is this the part where I say that I regret to inform you that GW squatted the Griffon Siege Mortar in the last codex release? it's still in the list for Armored company, since that's a forgeworld thing. they also still make the new resin kit!
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Nov 9, 2015 08:56
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Plus you can just run it as a counts-as Wyvern. I got my mitts on a original Griffin literally weeks before they got squatted 
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Nov 9, 2015 09:16
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The Locator posted:I went to a reasonably large IPMS model show yesterday, and there were some very impressive figures. Is it appropriate to post pictures of figures that I have nothing to do with (other than the photo's) in this thread, or does anyone even want to see photo's of figures not done by goons? I'm still working on the editing/cropping/resizing, but thought I'd ask for whenever I finish. Models are miniatures, figures are miniatures, doesn't have to be wargaming or board game stuff itt! post more! I went to a couple of model shows earlier this year and I anticipate going to the same ones again next year - I took a few pictures at each one but would have to dig them out of digital storage somewhere to get to them. The one I remember best is a 1/48 scale (I think) X-wing or A-wing fighter that was undergoing repair in a Rebel hangar somewhere. Lots of wires and the background was as impressive as the model.
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Nov 9, 2015 10:16
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I recently got a shitload of laser cut terrain, and it's making me finally want to pull the trigger on an airbrush to save time. I've settled on a Badger 105, but the OP doesn't really go into details or suggestions on compressors themselves. I'm sure this is asked a billion times, but are there any defaults? If listing preferences, i'd lean towards affordability over noise or compactness (within reason, I'd still like to be able to keep it at my desk).
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Nov 9, 2015 11:05
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Springfield Fatts posted:I recently got a shitload of laser cut terrain, and it's making me finally want to pull the trigger on an airbrush to save time. I've settled on a Badger 105, but the OP doesn't really go into details or suggestions on compressors themselves. I'm sure this is asked a billion times, but are there any defaults? If listing preferences, i'd lean towards affordability over noise or compactness (within reason, I'd still like to be able to keep it at my desk). I'll do an effortpost when I get the time, but basically compressors are like airbrushes - you get what you pay for. The cheap Chinese compressors without tanks will overheat and eventually break, when depends on how much you use them. You can extend the life of them by paying more for one with a tank but again they will eventually break. The companies that sell them online buy them by the containerload and don't bother to do repairs on them, they just scrap the bad ones or the returns and send out a new boxed one. These are the ones that are $/£80-100. If you're planning to be airbrushing for a while (meaning, continue airbrushing for a few years or more), the more you can spend, up to and over $/£200-300, you can be pretty assured the compressor will last for as long as you want to airbrush. Pay over 300 or so and you can have the compressor for decades and pass it onto your kids. It's kind of like the old craftman's mantra of: Cheap, Quick and Good - you can only pick two...with compressors and airbrushes, you can pick Cheap, Good and Support (as in spares, etc.) - you can only pick two.
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Nov 9, 2015 12:26
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krushgroove posted:I'll do an effortpost when I get the time, but basically compressors are like airbrushes - you get what you pay for. The cheap Chinese compressors without tanks will overheat and eventually break, when depends on how much you use them. You can extend the life of them by paying more for one with a tank but again they will eventually break. The companies that sell them online buy them by the containerload and don't bother to do repairs on them, they just scrap the bad ones or the returns and send out a new boxed one. These are the ones that are $/£80-100. What's your take on the actual working of the compressor? I was told "pulsing" is a myth and it actually indicates a lovely airbrush, not a lovely compressor. What's the cheapest you can go for steady air?
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Nov 9, 2015 13:14
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signalnoise posted:What's your take on the actual working of the compressor? I was told "pulsing" is a myth and it actually indicates a lovely airbrush, not a lovely compressor. What's the cheapest you can go for steady air? Pulsing is a myth, the hose absorbs the 'pulsing' (this is covered in the first video in the airbrush section of the OP), if your paint is pulsing out of the airbrush your paint is too thick or your air pressure is too low, or (more likely) your nozzle is clogged with gunky paint. You can get steady air from a cheap POS compressor, just be aware that if you paint regularly you will be replacing it eventually. If you're only going to prime and basecoat models here and there it may last 'for years' only because you use it a couple times a month, but if you paint regularly it's a 'buy nice or buy twice' situation. I'll put it like this: if you buy one of these and it dies, then buy another one and THAT dies, by the time you buy the third one you could have gotten a very high quality, quieter compressor with a 15 liter tank for the same price.
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Nov 9, 2015 13:30
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Cool, thanks for the heads up. Luckily my first models airbrushing are actually a thousand flat wall panels so the gently caress up factor is greatly reduced.
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Nov 9, 2015 13:35
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On compressors, IMO the best of the best are SilentAire, but they are quite expensive. Also not cheap, but what I ended up getting are Iwata Studio series, and I personally think that the ones with tanks do deliver 'smoother' air, but that's really based on my experience with tankless compressor's back int the 1980's, so they may have smoothed them out a lot since then (or made the hoses different or whatever). I think it's important to have good a pressure regulator and a water trap. To some extent you also pay for how quiet you want the compressor to be also. I went for not-cheap and quiet (and even more not cheap and even more quiet would be the SilentAire).
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Nov 9, 2015 13:42
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Springfield Fatts posted:Cool, thanks for the heads up. Luckily my first models airbrushing are actually a thousand flat wall panels so the gently caress up factor is greatly reduced. IMO this is the ideal first use for the noob airbrusher. You'll learn a lot doing loads of flat stuff. You can try lines, circles and all that good stuff that literally makes up half a day at the airbrushing workshops I help teach. You'll also be forced to learn how to keep your airbrush clean (the #1 thing to learn) and work with working distance, air pressure and paint thickness (what I call the triangle of airbrushing).
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Nov 9, 2015 13:45
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Don't be super scared of airbrush cleaning, by the way. It's nothing high-precision or whatever and ultimately if you gently caress up it's fixable since you can always disassemble it and leave it in spirit for ages. This isn't to say you can half-rear end it, but it's really mostly about frequency and time-consuming-ness, not that it's hard.
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Nov 9, 2015 13:49
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It isn't the maintenance that intimdates me, I'm sure it's easier than late 90's motorcycle carburetors. Just want to be sure everything lines up well before droping so much coin on something I up until now have only ever seen as an unnecessary luxury. Hopefully once I get the basics it'll be an eye opener and I'll be pissed at myself for waiting so long.
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Nov 9, 2015 13:58
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I present the first two minis, I've completed in about 6 years now. Kreoss (left) took about 10 hours and Morvhana probably took 15. She's also my first attempt at a human face. Lessons learned from these two: - 40k batch painting is bad and demoralizing. - Work from the "innermost" areas outward. - there comes a point where you just have to say gently caress it, otherwise perfectionism will just make it worse. - gently caress Gnarls Green and its ability to defy gravity where you don't want it to whil never staying put where you really need it.
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Nov 9, 2015 14:10
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Well if you're familiar with rebuilding bike carbs you shouldn't have a problem taking apart an airbrush to clean it Some pointers:
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Nov 9, 2015 14:15
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Any recommended airbrush lube? Its the only thing in that (great) post im not doing already
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Nov 9, 2015 14:22
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Skarsnik posted:Any recommended airbrush lube? Its the only thing in that (great) post im not doing already Badger Regdab, iwata's version is called Super Lube, both are fine. Basically use them on any threaded connection, in the nozzle and on the needle. FYI Badger airbrushes don't have o-rings on the nozzle holder or tip, which can allow bubbles to form if there's water or liquid around them - this is totally normal and the airbrush is designed to do that
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Nov 9, 2015 14:26
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Ilor posted:Is this the part where I say that I regret to inform you that GW squatted the Griffon Siege Mortar in the last codex release? If I ever use it for a game I'll either use FW rules or just count it as a Wyvern/Sawn-off Basilisk 
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Nov 9, 2015 14:34
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krushgroove posted:Use plumber's Teflon/PTFE tape on all air connections I don't know how this one got by me
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Nov 9, 2015 14:45
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Springfield Fatts posted:the OP doesn't really go into details or suggestions on compressors themselves. FYI I'm putting all of this recent compressor talk into the OP (in a separate browser tab) so this will be available to all in the future, plus I'm adding a little more stuff as it comes to mind. I just helped at a 2-day airbrushing workshop and will be instructing a friend this week so it's all kind of swimming around in my mind and I'm just doing an info dump into the OP. quote:I'm sure this is asked a billion times, but are there any defaults? If listing preferences, i'd lean towards affordability over noise or compactness (within reason, I'd still like to be able to keep it at my desk). Just so you know, there are tabletop compressors you can get that aren't lovely Chinese compressors, I'm about to review on for Sparmax, one of this range of Arism tabletop compressors: https://airbrushes.com/index.php?cPath=400_403_2_156 It only comes on when you press the trigger, I guess some valve in the outlet detects a drop in pressure and the compressor kicks in automatically. This one is a little more than a TC-20T type Chinese compressor with tank, but it should be quieter and actually last a while. I have a larger Sparmax compressor that I really love, it is now my spare compressor after getting a Bambi 15 liter tank compressor. So this might be an option for you, even though it's more expensive than what you might find on Amazon or ebay sellers that 'stack em deep and sell em cheap'.
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Nov 9, 2015 14:55
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krushgroove posted:I'll do an effortpost when I get the time, but basically compressors are like airbrushes - you get what you pay for. The cheap Chinese compressors without tanks will overheat and eventually break, when depends on how much you use them. You can extend the life of them by paying more for one with a tank but again they will eventually break. The companies that sell them online buy them by the containerload and don't bother to do repairs on them, they just scrap the bad ones or the returns and send out a new boxed one. These are the ones that are $/£80-100. How's this for a compressor? http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-S...wata+compressor I can definitely afford to spend more than $100, but low $200 is probably my max.
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Nov 9, 2015 14:55
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Krushgroove killing it with these knowledge bombs. Thanks man.
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Nov 9, 2015 15:11
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