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Motronic posted:Same on 2.2l Chevy S10s. At my last job I stopped recommending pan gaskets on those after I found that out. Was also even more careful than usual not to strip the pan (they're steel so the plug would probably strip first anyway, but I wasn't about to risk that one).
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Nov 9, 2015 14:47
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spankmeister posted:On the subject of oil drain plugs, my car doesn't have a copper crush washer but it has a steel one that is integral to the plug. How many times can I reuse that before I have to replace it? Anyone?
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Nov 9, 2015 17:16
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If it's the same steel as the bolt, then presumably by the time you tighten it enough to deform the washer permanently, the threads would be ruined too. You should be good to reuse it forever.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:19
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Alright cool. The threads are a little bit hosed because apparently some 300 pound gorilla overtightened it once. There's visible damage on the bolt head as well. When I replace the plug after an oil change I can do it by hand until I hit a spot then I have to use a wrench to get past the point and then I can turn it with my fingers again. This happens a couple of times before it's all the way in. Can I clean up the threads by (very carefully) chasing it with a same-sized tap to clean out the burrs? Or do I need to go next size up to fix damage like that. Or should I just not give a gently caress and keep doing it this way?
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Nov 9, 2015 17:27
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Edit: Nevermind.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:41
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spankmeister posted:Alright cool. Same size thread chaser, or at least a lovely hardware store tap. A good tap just might cut the threads too much rather than cleaning them up/pushing them around, which is the more desired result here.
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Nov 9, 2015 18:28
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Parts Kit posted:I've heard there are some ford trucks where you have actually pull the engine or drop the transmission to do an oil pan swap, which is just My LS1 swap is this way. Found out when we discovered a hairline fracture in the oilpan that only opened up after driving it a little while, followed by hours of my dad and I swearing at it trying to find the fraction of an inch needed to get the pan out without at least hoisting the engine a bit.
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Nov 9, 2015 19:25
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I've got a beat up 1995 Roadmaster wagon. The car has given me a fair amount of grief in the 2.5 years that I have owned it. Yesterday I'm driving home from work, everything is fine. I live at the bottom of a very big hill. So as I coast down this hill everything seems fine, up until I give the car a little gas when I hit flat land. The motor just revs. huh. That's funny. I give it gas again. vrooooom. Stick it in Neutral, vroom vroom. Back to D. Vrooooooom. In to 3-vroom-2-vroom-1-vroom. Fuckinggodamnmotherfucker. I got nothing. Last issue I had the motor would go loving ghost on me, now it's the tranny. The car has relatively low miles, about 66k. It's got an LT1 and a a 4L60-E. So far all I've done is check the fluid. Looks like the fluid is halfway up the dipstick. I expected nothing before I expected too much. I've checked the tranny fluid in the past and it was fine. Any ideas? Anyone want a buick?
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Nov 9, 2015 23:11
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So I've decided to give my 07 Grand Prix away to a friend who is in dire need, rather than sell it. I have the title clear and in my name. However, the DMV information is hard to find in North Dakota to understand what I'd have to do. Will I have to pay a tax for giving her the car? There will be absolutely no money exchanging hands, I just want to sign it over to her and let her be on her way.
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Nov 10, 2015 00:46
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Dubious posted:So I've decided to give my 07 Grand Prix away to a friend who is in dire need, rather than sell it. I have the title clear and in my name. However, the DMV information is hard to find in North Dakota to understand what I'd have to do. In some places the paperwork is easier to sell it for peanuts. If you actually gift it, you may have to report the gift to the IRS. Is this what you need? (#19) http://www.dot.nd.gov/dotnet2/faq/faq.aspx
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Nov 10, 2015 00:59
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This weekend my father changed the lines running from the oil filter adapter to the radiator in his 1994 Chevy Suburban 1500, but he suspects he reversed the connectors at the oil filter adapter. Would this cause any harm? He's not entirely sure about it, but I am of the opinion that it probably doesn't matter. Everything is stock in the vehicle, by the way; no aftermarket coolers or anything.
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Nov 10, 2015 03:28
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Either way it's sending hot oil to the cooler and getting cooler oil back, as long as they don't leak or anything it should be fine.
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Nov 10, 2015 03:42
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Dubious posted:So I've decided to give my 07 Grand Prix away to a friend who is in dire need, rather than sell it. I have the title clear and in my name. However, the DMV information is hard to find in North Dakota to understand what I'd have to do. I'm not advocating any wrong doing, but you can "sell" your car to your friend for a very low amount and just pay a tiny amount of tax to keep it legal. Around here its $6.75 per $100, you need to transfer the title anyways, I'd just make out a bill of sale saying "I sold this car for 100 to this person etc"
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Nov 10, 2015 04:07
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Weirdest drat thing happened tonight. Went to turn on the blower for the heat cause its getting a little chilly. I noticed when I turned the knob it went straight to full blast. That's odd so I spun the knob up and down and off. Constant full blast. I get home and shut the car off and the drat thing is still blowing with the ignition off and key removed. I tried pulling every fan related relay and fuse with no result. Finally had to go under the dash and pull the plug right from the blower itself. That did the trick. Id be seriously spooked if it kept going after that. Now I guess I have no HVAC unless I plug the fan in and then yank it every time I drive until I figure this out. I read that there's a resistor that can go bad that might cause this behavior but I'm not sure what I should be testing to find out. Any ideas? The vehicle is my '04 Pontiac GTP. I replaced the blower motor itself about 2 years ago. Put a new cabin filter in it about 6 months ago and didn't notice any water down that way.
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Nov 10, 2015 05:54
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I'm not advocating any wrong doing, but you can "sell" your car to your friend for a very low amount and just pay a tiny amount of tax to keep it legal. Around here its $6.75 per $100, you need to transfer the title anyways, I'd just make out a bill of sale saying "I sold this car for 100 to this person etc" Make sure you check with the DMV or whatever wherever you live, though, because you can't always dodge out on sales tax. In CT, you pay sales tax at registration and the DMV will use either the bill of sale value or the NADA value, whichever is higher.
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Nov 10, 2015 06:02
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Weirdest drat thing happened tonight. Went to turn on the blower for the heat cause its getting a little chilly. I noticed when I turned the knob it went straight to full blast. That's odd so I spun the knob up and down and off. Constant full blast. I get home and shut the car off and the drat thing is still blowing with the ignition off and key removed. I tried pulling every fan related relay and fuse with no result. Finally had to go under the dash and pull the plug right from the blower itself. Sounds like blower motor resistor. This guy describes similar symptoms and replaces it in part 2: https://youtu.be/Cn0HeJP8bZQ
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Nov 10, 2015 06:17
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If it was the resistor I would really expect pulling the fuse to shut it off. Because it didn't, I would suspect fuckery or a rubbing wire somewhere or similar.
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Nov 10, 2015 06:25
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Paradoxish posted:Make sure you check with the DMV or whatever wherever you live, though, because you can't always dodge out on sales tax. In CT, you pay sales tax at registration and the DMV will use either the bill of sale value or the NADA value, whichever is higher. Usually fly over state DMV laws are pretty lax - but this is good advice. I know Iowa doesn't bat an eye at sold price.
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Nov 10, 2015 06:27
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I only tried pulling the fuses and relays that were labeled for fans and HVAC stuff. I didn't try the battery main that the guy in the video did. That video is showing my exact problem so it looks like I'll have to pick up that resistor and put it in. It's a simple job thankfully.
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Nov 10, 2015 06:34
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Paradoxish posted:Make sure you check with the DMV or whatever wherever you live, though, because you can't always dodge out on sales tax. In CT, you pay sales tax at registration and the DMV will use either the bill of sale value or the NADA value, whichever is higher. Yea, the thing is I just don't know how to save her on tax easier, because she isn't actually buying the car; i'm straight up giving her the vehicle. I'm happy to pay whatever the state may wanna charge, just don't want them to make her pay NADA value because it's still a 6k car in ND, but she's not paying poo poo. I'll just call them and see. A couple years ago I bought an 05 GXP from a buddy trying to get rid of it for 4k, which was 7k under book and I actually had to show the Minnesota DMV the cashed check for 4k to prove that was the sale price.
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Nov 10, 2015 06:58
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Leperflesh posted:xmission fluid dipstick shows full when cold, although it says to check hot. I don't think this truck has a cooler for the transmission but I'll check - in any case, it really seems like the damage is extremely light. There's no bent metal whatsoever. Following up. Although there's a very very slow leak, the transmission was full at hot. My mechanic did not find anything obviously wrong, but based on symptoms he referred me to a transmission specialist. I took the truck there today and based on symptoms and age, he thinks it's like a 90% chance the transmission is shot, but tomorrow he's going to drop the transmission pan to look for bits and pieces of gears - whatever he finds in the pan will tell me for sure. It's not worth having a shop replace or rebuild the tranny in this truck, but in order to not send it to the junk yard (especially after spending a fair amount recently doing other work on it) I'm willing to try replacing it myself. I have garage space, ramps and heavy duty jack stands, a floor jack, sockets, an impact driver and impact sockets, and a certain dogged determination. What I'm struggling with right now is identifying the actual transmission in the truck: made more difficult by not having it here for me to get under and look. I am certain that it either has a 4L60e or a 700r4. I'm finding conflicting information online as to whether my truck came with the older one or the newer. For reference, it is a 1992 Chevy S10 with the 4.3l V6, 4x2 configuration. Some charts insist the 4L60e started with the 1993 model, while others say it was used in 1992. Can anyone definitively state that one or the other was used in this year for this truck? Secondly: how hard is it to replace a transmission in these trucks? At first glance it seems like there's not a lot in the way. I assume I'd need to drain it, put the truck up on jackstands or ramps, disconnect a bunch of stuff (cooler lines, shift linkage, speedometer link, anything else?) and then unbolt it from the engine and from the transaxle. Lower old transmission, raise new transmission, bolt up, reconnect stuff, fill with fluid, and I'm done? Where is the best place to get an inexpensive transmission? I see a bunch on ebay ranging from $350 for a high-mileage pull to $750+ for a lower-mileage pull, but these seem to mostly be untouched other than being pulled from a truck. I see this is a popular transmission for swaps into jeeps, there's lots of built transmissions to handle higher-power output applications, etc. but I just need my truck to go for a while, I don't tow things, and the engine from the factory put out just like 230HP or something. I need a transmission that will work, I'm willing to replace seals and gaskets and stuff, I need to keep my total costs reasonable (this is a truck with 220k miles on it, it's got dents and scratches and the paint looks like hell, it has other random small stuff broken, the A/C has been removed, and the engine is original and has never been opened up. But it's a workhorse truck and if I junk it I'll probably have to pay $6k+ to buy a decent newer truck to replace it.) I don't want to pay $2500 for a shop to do a transmission swap but if it's so expensive (at $160/hr for labor, holy poo poo) it can't be as simple as I'm imagining it, can it? Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 08:04
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My understanding is that the 4L60 (700R4) and 4L60E are basically the same transmission, but the E has electronic controls. So, perhaps look at the passenger side of the transmission, and if it has an electrical connector on it, it's a 4L60E. If it has a cable (TV cable) going to the throttle body, it is a 4L60. I read on the internet (so it's about as reliable as anything I know) that the TCC connector on the driver side of the trans is square on a 4L60 and round on a 4L60E. Except a 1993 LT1 apparently, which had a round one  http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-identify-a-700r4-trans.653004/Leperflesh posted:Secondly: how hard is it to replace a transmission in these trucks? At first glance it seems like there's not a lot in the way. I assume I'd need to drain it, put the truck up on jackstands or ramps, disconnect a bunch of stuff (cooler lines, shift linkage, speedometer link, anything else?) and then unbolt it from the engine and from the transaxle. Lower old transmission, raise new transmission, bolt up, reconnect stuff, fill with fluid, and I'm done? I don't think you have a transaxle, but yeah basically unhook the linkages, vacuum and TV cable (if 4L60), electrical (if 4L60E), dipstick tube, unbolt the driveshaft, and see if you can slide it off the back. Installation is the reverse of removal Disclaimer: I haven't had to dick with this personally. Plenty of motors in and out, but my trans has stayed put. So I might be missing something. Leperflesh posted:Where is the best place to get an inexpensive transmission? I see a bunch on ebay ranging from $350 for a high-mileage pull to $750+ for a lower-mileage pull, but these seem to mostly be untouched other than being pulled from a truck. I see this is a popular transmission for swaps into jeeps, there's lots of built transmissions to handle higher-power output applications, etc. but I just need my truck to go for a while, I don't tow things, and the engine from the factory put out just like 230HP or something. I need a transmission that will work, I'm willing to replace seals and gaskets and stuff, I need to keep my total costs reasonable (this is a truck with 220k miles on it, it's got dents and scratches and the paint looks like hell, it has other random small stuff broken, the A/C has been removed, and the engine is original and has never been opened up. But it's a workhorse truck and if I junk it I'll probably have to pay $6k+ to buy a decent newer truck to replace it.) I'd just go to a junkyard. Drop the trans out of a junkyard truck the same as yours, that way you can learn what bullshit items are going to hold you up when it's not your vehicle and if you accidentally break something it's not the end of the world, because you're already at the junkyard. The pick n pull here charges $130 for a RWD automatic, so it should be pretty affordable. I think they give you like 30 days to figure out if it's broken or not. 'Course, if it is, you're out all that time putting it in and out, but you will get good at it if you have to do it several times! That's the most economical option, anyhow. E: Oh! Also, don't forget to fully re-seat the torque converter before each time you put the trans back in. If you don't, you run the risk of damaging the front pump and input splines. see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFFIPyv2C_4&t=197s I forgot to do this once and I got the converter all wedged into the crank at a slight angle, so I had to pull the motor back out and it took the converter with it, spilling several quarts of ATF all over the driveway
Raluek fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 08:39
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Supposing it's a 4L60e, can I put any 4x2 4L60e in, including ones from newer vehicles, or does it need to be the specific one from a 92 S10/Blazer? I've pulled parts at several local junkyards and while I almost always can find an 86-93 S10/Blazer or five, I've never found another 92 specifically... and the 91s and earlier are definitely the older 700R4.
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Nov 10, 2015 09:04
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Leperflesh posted:Supposing it's a 4L60e, can I put any 4x2 4L60e in, including ones from newer vehicles, or does it need to be the specific one from a 92 S10/Blazer? I've pulled parts at several local junkyards and while I almost always can find an 86-93 S10/Blazer or five, I've never found another 92 specifically... and the 91s and earlier are definitely the older 700R4. As long as it isn't one of the later LS1-vintage ones that has a separate bellhousing. Those have a different bell depth I think. You can make them work, but why bother. Pretty sure all one-piece casing 2WD ones are fine. I'd just visually confirm that the connections are the same as what you've got, but as far as I know they're the same.
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Nov 10, 2015 09:23
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the computer wont make it shift wrong or something? Ok cool, that will make it a lot easier to find one with decently lower mileage on it. Thanks!
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Nov 10, 2015 10:04
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Leperflesh posted:the computer wont make it shift wrong or something? Ok cool, that will make it a lot easier to find one with decently lower mileage on it. Thanks! As far as I know, all the one-piece bellhousing 4L60E transmissions have the same ratios and the same plugs. If someone else knows different, I would defer to them, though.
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Nov 10, 2015 10:43
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Even if the ratios are different, the computer should be able to figure it out. Pretty sure it mostly goes by RPM + throttle position.
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Nov 10, 2015 10:46
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EightBit posted:Is it better to put an aftermarket dry sump on? Lots of people exacerbate things and install a 7 quart pan Pulling the engine isn't too bad in these cars I suppose.
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Nov 10, 2015 17:05
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Raluek posted:As far as I know, all the one-piece bellhousing 4L60E transmissions have the same ratios and the same plugs. If someone else knows different, I would defer to them, though. I am pretty sure all 4L60E's are the same ratios. Also anything after 2002 has strengthened planetary sets, but I am pretty sure it was limited to the 2 piece units. If it was me in the yards, id make sure the fluid was clean or if its drained, drop the pan and check the magnet and see how filthy it is.
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Nov 10, 2015 17:44
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I got the word back from the transmission shop. My transmission has "excessive metal in the fluid", the fluid "looks like chocolate syrup", the "belt is flopping around loose inside", and the transmission is therefore "toast, it's done." Along with replacing the tranny, I'd need to flush or replace the cooler and lines. I am thinking about it but it also occurs to me that this truck's engine is just as old: 220k miles and never cracked open. It burns a little oil. If I put a ton of effort and several hundred dollars into replacing the transmission, how much longer is it going to run before I have to do the engine as well? It's an iffy proposition. We're gonna have to think about it carefully. It's easy to be sentimentally attached to a vehicle you've owned for 15 years and put 160k miles in, but... maybe it's time for a much newer, more reliable vehicle instead. 
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Nov 10, 2015 20:36
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Leperflesh posted:I got the word back from the transmission shop. My transmission has "excessive metal in the fluid", the fluid "looks like chocolate syrup", the "belt is flopping around loose inside", and the transmission is therefore "toast, it's done." Along with replacing the tranny, I'd need to flush or replace the cooler and lines.
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Nov 10, 2015 20:46
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Raluek posted:My understanding is that the 4L60 (700R4) and 4L60E are basically the same transmission, but the E has electronic controls. So, perhaps look at the passenger side of the transmission, and if it has an electrical connector on it, it's a 4L60E. If it has a cable (TV cable) going to the throttle body, it is a 4L60. The original 700R4 had an electrical connector too, but it's a very simple one - it just uses it to apply power to the torque converter clutch I think it's a four-pin connector and even then it only really needed one or two. The fun part there is (because GM) any given 700R4 could have any combination of one-pin (self grounded) or two-pin (ungrounded) pressure switches and solenoids, so you might need to provide a 700R4 with both +12V and ground, or you might just need +12V. What also probably makes your transition year more confusing is that the 700R4 was renamed the 4L60 a few years before the 4L60E came out. Same transmission, different name. All of them, including the much more recent 4L65E and 4L70E, have the same 3.06/1.62/1/0.69 gearing.
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Nov 10, 2015 20:49
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So if when at idle I depress the brake pedal and the revs drop I should start looking for vacuum leaks in the vicinity of the brake booster, right? In another thread I saw mention of plans to build a homemade smoker for vacuum leak detection but then I had an idea to modify a beekeeping smoker for automotive use. You can find battery powered ones for pretty darn cheap. When I get around to it I'll report back with results.
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Nov 10, 2015 21:26
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just vape the intake brah
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Nov 10, 2015 21:27
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Enourmo posted:just vape the intake brah Any half decent ecig is a lot more expensive than this: http://www.amazon.com/Bee-Proof-Suits-Battery-Electric/dp/B00L81MH10/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1447187327&sr=8-5&keywords=Bee+smoker+battery
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Nov 10, 2015 21:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:The original 700R4 had an electrical connector too, but it's a very simple one - it just uses it to apply power to the torque converter clutch I think it's a four-pin connector and even then it only really needed one or two. The fun part there is (because GM) any given 700R4 could have any combination of one-pin (self grounded) or two-pin (ungrounded) pressure switches and solenoids, so you might need to provide a 700R4 with both +12V and ground, or you might just need +12V. Isn't the electrical connector on the 4L60 (700R4) on the driver's side?
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Nov 10, 2015 21:45
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Raluek posted:Isn't the electrical connector on the 4L60 (700R4) on the driver's side? I could've sworn it was passenger side, but the only time I screwed with it was back in 2002 when I did a 700R4 swap in my C10. non-edit: A Google image search makes it look like you're right, the 700R4 had it near the back of the driver's side. The 4L60E has a larger round one with a higher pin count (and smaller pins) on the passenger side.
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Nov 10, 2015 21:47
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InitialDave posted:What is it? Some brands will happily eat four transmissions in the time it takes the engine to start getting a little tappety. Chevy fuel injected 4.3l V6, 1992, 220k miles. It's consuming oil just a little bit - blows some blue smoke at startup. I'm running thicker oil to compensate. This is a non-turbo TBI version (engine code Z).
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Nov 10, 2015 21:50
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Leperflesh posted:Chevy fuel injected 4.3l V6, 1992, 220k miles. It's consuming oil just a little bit - blows some blue smoke at startup. I'm running thicker oil to compensate. This is a non-turbo TBI version (engine code Z). That's probably just stem seals. Could do 'em in a weekend if you wanted to.
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Nov 10, 2015 21:58
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Assume it's just stem seals. Could I reasonably get 100k more miles out of this engine, before it'd need a teardown or replacement?
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Nov 10, 2015 23:58
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