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Lucy Heartfilia posted:So resin 3D printers like Form 1+/2 or B9creator look great. Is their only drawback the costs? Limited number of materials. Resin is toxic. Partially used materials begin to lose performance (I originally thought it wasn't reusable at all but I was corrected in that you just need to add fresh material to it). The printed parts aren't as strong and tend to explode when stressed. Though that's about it. The cost is really the biggest drawback, but the print quality is fantastic.
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Nov 13, 2015 21:50
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Lucy Heartfilia posted:So resin 3D printers like Form 1+/2 or B9creator look great. Is their only drawback the costs? Let me answer that by saying I would love to be able to afford a Form2. I've never heard a bad thing about the Formlabs printers as far as ease-of-use or reliability goes. The drawback is mostly cost though, top-to-bottom. You've got the outlay of the printer initial cost, then the cost of the resin is crazy compared to a spool of FDM filament for the same volume of material. Also the UV-curing of the resin means anything you make essentially has to stay indoors because Sunlight will destroy it faster than most of the FDM filaments. Drawback on FDM though is all the failed prints and wasted material if anything goes wrong or there is a sudden temperature drop or the air conditioner comes on or the stepper drivers start overheating. Again, I'd love to be able to afford a Form2. Just look at the demonstration videos for it on Formalbs's website for it.
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Nov 13, 2015 21:51
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Oh, I didn't expect that the mechanical durability would also be a problem. And the light sensitivity is also disappointing. I guess you'd have to use the prints for molds, if you want anything durable.
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Nov 13, 2015 21:51
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MickRaider posted:Limited number of materials. Resin is toxic. Partially used materials begin to lose performance (I originally thought it wasn't reusable at all but I was corrected in that you just need to add fresh material to it). The printed parts aren't as strong and tend to explode when stressed. There are some really exotic material out there, but they're so expensive most people don't even think about using them. http://www.artcorp.com/resins.html Like NanoTool, that looks like a neat material to print in.
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Nov 13, 2015 22:00
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Lucy Heartfilia posted:Oh, I didn't expect that the mechanical durability would also be a problem. And the light sensitivity is also disappointing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5t6deOZloBU here's something a bit more analytical Still strong but if you're making structural components, FDM is better MickRaider fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Nov 13, 2015 |
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Nov 13, 2015 22:08
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Hmm, that was a really interesting and useful video. The strength of everything except the cheap crap was quite good I think.
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Nov 13, 2015 22:23
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Yeah when I first watched that video I was surprised by how strong the materials actually were.
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Nov 13, 2015 22:28
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Geirskogul posted:Maybe a 90 degree change in printing orientation if that is the direction stress is going to be in that part.
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Nov 13, 2015 22:30
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Wade Wilson posted:Get ready for a lot of frustration if you think 3d printing is anything like "regular" printing where you can just send a job to the printer and expect it to print without ever having an issue. I spent three hours today elbow deep in various Lexmark printers so I don't even believe regular printers are issue free. Turns out they get kinda unreliable once they pump out about three to four million pages. I do realize there is a lot of tweaking and about a hundred variables to contend with, but the entry level is low enough now, and the quality seems good enough for the type of things I want to use it for.
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Nov 13, 2015 23:38
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Wade Wilson posted:Get ready for a lot of frustration if you think 3d printing is anything like "regular" printing where you can just send a job to the printer and expect it to print without ever having an issue. I came across these sorts of sentiment a lot before getting into this with my $250 Kossel mini clone, so I was expecting the worst. However, my experience has been the opposite; there is a learning curve for sure, assembly is involved, and you have to play around with settings to optimise results, but after I was up and running I haven't needed to gently caress around with it much. In fact, I had all these marginal upgrades planned out in my head (better autolevel probe, better extruder, better linear rails, stiffer frame vertices), but I ended up not pursuing any of them because the printer has been chooching along reliably and predictably. rawrr fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Nov 14, 2015 |
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Nov 14, 2015 00:15
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Lucy Heartfilia posted:Oh, I didn't expect that the mechanical durability would also be a problem. And the light sensitivity is also disappointing. I had problems with a bicycle tail light bracket I printed with the form1 tough resin snapping within a day or two of use. The same model printed by shapeways with SLS nylon has lasted 2 months without any visible deterioration.
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Nov 14, 2015 02:06
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What grease do I best use on the linear rails? I have lithium free grease for the suspension fork of my mountain bike, but a quick google suggests that I actually need lithium grease?
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Nov 14, 2015 16:03
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Anyone used a cheap eBay CNC/milling machine? http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-CNC-Router-Engraver-Milling-Machine-Engraving-Drilling-3-Axis-3020-Desktop-/130999706774?nav=SEARCH
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Nov 15, 2015 05:00
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BiohazrD posted:Anyone used a cheap eBay CNC/milling machine? Oh wow, tempting. I also don't want to be the guinea pig for this.
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Nov 15, 2015 08:30
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Blackchamber posted:Oh wow, tempting. I also don't want to be the guinea pig for this. quote:Simple operation and installation Hmm, seems quality right there
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Nov 15, 2015 10:58
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Well yeah, if the seller is obviously foreign and can't write well in english then that automatically means its low quality. What was I thinking...
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Nov 15, 2015 11:13
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Not any indication there, but it sure leads you to believe setup and support will be terrible, doesn't it?
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Nov 15, 2015 11:20
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oh no, that part I totally can agree on. I think the manual is linked and parts of the program are in chinese but there are arrows and circles telling you which squiggles and slashes to press. That said I think some goons own knock off 3D printers from china that required assembly and so on and its been drummed on heavily that these things (printers and cnc routers) arent for people who want something that works perfectly out of the box and don't need tinkering with, so in the end its not that big a detractor is it?
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Nov 15, 2015 12:56
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You can google the model number and find some reviews of dudes who have bought them. Apparently they're decent. No USB though, you have to have an old rear end parallel port. Lots of cheap China stuff works well enough with some tinkering. Who was that goon who got a CO2 laser engraver from eBay?
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Nov 15, 2015 16:46
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I'd like a small cnc that can carve people's names into small wood or plastic items, something like that might actually fit the bill. Parallel port only though ughhhh and what exactly is meant by "desktop only not laptop control" E: oh its spelled out in the manual, basically low voltage level on pins maybe compared to desktop and parallel port needs to be in epp mode The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Nov 15, 2015 |
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Nov 15, 2015 20:35
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FYI: Text like that means there's a non trivial chance that this means an MSDOS control program, and that USB-to-parallel converters won't work. If you see references to a port number like 0x378, you're definitely in that territory.
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Nov 15, 2015 20:53
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The listing says Mach3, which is frequently used on parallel port machines. That said, it will need windows 7 or less and 32 bit, not 64. And yes, USB -> parallel port converters are pretty much right out. A friend of mine had a really similar one. Eventually the spindle controller burnt up, and he never really learned to use Mach3 well, but he did some small stuff. I've considered getting one to drill holes in diy pcbs. You could also run these machines with either something like GRBL, if you want to convert it to USB, or linuxCNC if you just want to use the hardware as is. The 3020 machines are decently well built, and good for the price. That said cheaper ones often have cheaper steppers (less torquey, fewer steps/rev, etc) Those motors don't look bad though, but I didn't give it a very long look. It'd also be nice if the spindle speed was under computer control rather than via the front knob, but again, price. P.S. cnc thread.
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Nov 15, 2015 21:31
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I would really like a small one to like I said carve names in poo poo but needing to run off a laptop would absolutely be needed. And small table space needed would also be bonus.
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Nov 15, 2015 21:41
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Mister Sinewave posted:I would really like a small one to like I said carve names in poo poo but needing to run off a laptop would absolutely be needed. And small table space needed would also be bonus. If your laptop has a parallel port, you're fine. The chance of that being true is minimal. Usb adapters basically don't work. An ExpressCard adapter would probably work. If your laptop even takes ExpressCards. Pretty much every desktop ever can take a PCI express, or regular PCI parallel port card, and they work fine and are like $10. What you need is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-6-Axis-...RkAAOSwkNZUdZTI Note that this is not simply a usb to parralel adapter. It has a small microcontroller on it that interprets G code sent to it, and drives the parallel port specifically for this function. Also,I've never used it and make no claim of goodness, only that it is designed to do what you need.
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Nov 15, 2015 23:16
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Aurium posted:What you need is: To time travel to the mid 90s and steal john connors laptop
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Nov 16, 2015 05:09
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Or maybe something like an ethernet smoothstepper if you want to go all 
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Nov 16, 2015 05:12
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recorded my latest print with a thermal cam:
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Nov 19, 2015 08:24
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rawrr posted:recorded my latest print with a thermal cam: 
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Nov 19, 2015 13:29
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I hope this is the right place to post, if not, apologies! We've recently got a 3D printer at work just for messing around with - an Ultimaker 2. We've got it set up, calibrated, and printing nicely/reliably now, but I'm looking to edit a model from Thingiverse and basically have no idea where to start with modelling software. The model is this iPhone and watch stand, which like most things on Thingiverse is only supplied as a .stl file. Basically I just want to lop off the watch part and end up with a standalone iPhone dock - it would be nice if I could mirror the curved corner on the modified side, but I could live without that really. I tried importing the STL file into Blender but the UI seems off the charts on the confusing scale, and I really have no idea what I'm doing there. I then tried importing the STL file into SketchUp, and I've been able to delete the mesh parts that make up the watch stand, but I'm then left with a gaping hole in the side of the model which I can't figure out how to patch up or modify. I tried exporting this as a new STL file, importing into Blender and following the steps here to supposedly patch up the gap, but it ruined the whole model and just left a few malformed parts floating around. Is there any easier way to achieve what I'm aiming for? Long-term I wouldn't mind learning a bit of 3D modelling now we have this to play with, but I don't really have the time to invest right now..
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Nov 19, 2015 16:32
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STL files are basically what you see is what you get with no real editing possibilities that you haven't already said you have tried. You basically have to learn how to 3d model to apply those techniques to the programs capable of editing STL files, so it's easier to just design a part you want from scratch (and export to STL) than to modify an existing STL file. That said, look at the original file the part you're looking at was made from. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:864011/#files The "Part 1" version sounds like it is the part you're wanting to make.
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Nov 19, 2015 16:54
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Wade Wilson posted:STL files are basically what you see is what you get with no real editing possibilities that you haven't already said you have tried. Yeah, I saw the original, and that it was made in two parts. Unfortunately that was made for the 6 Plus which is quite a bit larger, and if I just shrink the model then the cable-channel will end up too narrow. The remixed version was only done for the complete stand, not the version in two parts. Thanks for the reply though, at least you've confirmed I'm not missing an easy solution! This is getting a bit off topic as I originally worried, but what's the easiest program to get into if I was to design a model from scratch? I guess SketchUp is the most approachable for a beginner?
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Nov 19, 2015 17:20
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For stl editing, programs like solidworks let you convert stl to meshes, but it sucks at it and is finicky, even for a multi thousand dollar program. There is no easy way
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Nov 19, 2015 17:33
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Froist posted:Yeah, I saw the original, and that it was made in two parts. Unfortunately that was made for the 6 Plus which is quite a bit larger, and if I just shrink the model then the cable-channel will end up too narrow. The remixed version was only done for the complete stand, not the version in two parts. Autodesk Fusion 360 is the way to go if you want something free that is also fully-featured. If you are a hobbyist or maker that makes less than $100k/year, the software is free for you to use. It has some really good tutorials built-in and so far I'm pretty impressed with it.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:00
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Wade Wilson posted:Let me answer that by saying I would love to be able to afford a Form2. I have a Form 1+ and am upgrading to a Form 2. It seems that failing print jobs happens a lot in either domain. FDM folks are saving lots of money on raw materials versus what my wasted resin costs. We're all working in a world where everything is tweaky as gently caress
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Nov 19, 2015 18:32
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How do you like the formlab printers? I'm thinking an SLA would be better for future prototyping but not sure if the Form 2 is right or if i'd need to go for something crazy like a 3dsystems
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Nov 19, 2015 18:39
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I've been seeing this link a few times on FB in the 3d printer groups making the rounds, but don't know much about how good the actual kit itself is. http://www.muve3d.net/press/product/muve-1-dlp/
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Nov 19, 2015 19:03
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Open air projection?
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Nov 19, 2015 20:18
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Well I managed to convince my boss to pay for a e3d hot end. Now to order and install that so I can make lovely petg parts. Gonna have to do some power supply upgrades though. Anyone have any good guides for that?
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Nov 19, 2015 23:20
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Buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F2MCJPA/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1447974879&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=12v+40a+power+supply Put it in. It's what I'm using.
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Nov 20, 2015 00:15
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I designed this PSU cover for 3D printer power supplies It is for a 12V 30A supply. Features a fused power switch, plug socket so you don't have to cut up a power cord, strain relief on output cable, 4conductor 16AWG http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1091686 If you want one already put together I have some I can sell.
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Nov 20, 2015 00:38
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