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New page edit:2016 WRX 2.0 Oh, I was going to ask a question... Where does the dipstick tube end in the pan? In the front of the sump or the rear, the middle? my driveway puts the nose up, which is perfect for a topside extraction if the dipstick tube terminates in the rear of the sump.
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Nov 8, 2015 22:17
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Took my Impreza down some fire roads around Big Bear, CA. Everyone else was in a super lifted Jeep with $2500 worth of off-road lights. It was 90% just plain dirt roads. Then there were some rocky areas, I'm sure the 35" tires on those Jeeps let them just drive through, but for my barely 6" of clearance it was like rock crawling at times. It was fun. Only banged the rockers once or twice. I may have been on 3 wheels crossing a small washout. Considering that Forester suspension swap, or at least a strut spacer.
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Nov 9, 2015 01:41
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Bogatyr posted:I have a 2016 WRX, first Subaru, first car since the mid 90s, been Ford trucks since then. I was done with trucks, completely done with Ford, the vehicles are fine, their service is garbage. Not totally divorced from Ford, I drive a Super Duty diesel at work. Great truck, still, their service can eat a dick. No more of my money. You might as well just set a pile of cash on fire and let the dealer handle your maintenance instead. A filter costs ~$6, and is an essential part of removing contamination from the lubrication system; at those intervals it's not a huge deal, but at the same time, if you're going through all that trouble, why half-rear end the maintenance and contaminate new oil? If you don't plan on keeping this vehicle around for long, cheap is probably the way to go for oil, but around that price point, a few more dollars will really save you trouble in the long run.
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Nov 9, 2015 02:47
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McSpatula posted:You might as well just set a pile of cash on fire and let the dealer handle your maintenance instead. A filter costs ~$6, and is an essential part of removing contamination from the lubrication system; at those intervals it's not a huge deal, but at the same time, if you're going through all that trouble, why half-rear end the maintenance and contaminate new oil? I hadn't priced a filter, if a Subaru factory filter is 6 bucks, it's trivial additional work I am going to change it also. Is your second paragraph still referring to contamination from the old filter or is there an oil brand issue to consider? Mobil1 is likely going to be my first choice.
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Nov 9, 2015 04:02
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04 wrx. Went to crank it this morning. It turns over, maybe more rapidly than normal but hard to tell because it always starts so quickly normally. Has fuel pressure, timing belt is in good shape, maf is plugged in. Things I haven't done, pull the maf to look it at, check spark (because I spilled fuel on everything). I also haven't put the stock tune on it (had been running fine for forever on this tune, and my changes have just been correcting little issues.
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Nov 13, 2015 03:07
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Guys... Wet Okole seat covers installed on my 2015 legacy and HOLY poo poo they are amazing. Completely tailored fit. front install was easy as poo poo. Rears were a pain in the balls. Comes with a cover for center console as well. The rears fit like a glove and eve maintain the middle fold down arm rest and cup holders. They ran me 601$ shipped but honestly worth every penny in my opinion.
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Nov 14, 2015 03:44
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Winter wheels/tire chat for my 2016 Outback again. I will be doing the same thing when my WRX comes in. The dealership is going to install the new rims and tires and sync the TPMS for free. Now I just have to decide on rims from Tirerack, and some winter tires.
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Nov 14, 2015 15:11
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My 2012 Impreza was wrecked into last week by a loving moron with no DL or insurance, good thing I have uninsured motorist coverage as my car is a total loss. Now to hunt for another manual to replace it once the check comes in next week.
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Nov 15, 2015 00:46
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Hey guys, I'm looking at replacing my clutch in my 2004 wrx. The throw out bearing started squealing... 4 years ago. Anyways, I'm trying to figure out if I should buy OEM or aftermarket. The engine is stock and I'm not planning on adding any power so I don't need a crazy clutch. I see the exedy oem replacement is decently cheap, but there's a lot of people that say it chatters and people who say it's perfect and never chatters. Anyone use this clutch? Or can anyone confirm they suck? I trust your opinions way more than I would NASIOC.
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Nov 15, 2015 05:24
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Solosilent posted:Hey guys, I'm looking at replacing my clutch in my 2004 wrx. The throw out bearing started squealing... 4 years ago. Anyways, I'm trying to figure out if I should buy OEM or aftermarket. The engine is stock and I'm not planning on adding any power so I don't need a crazy clutch. I see the exedy oem replacement is decently cheap, but there's a lot of people that say it chatters and people who say it's perfect and never chatters. Anyone use this clutch? Or can anyone confirm they suck? I trust your opinions way more than I would NASIOC. Ive used an oem replacement exedy and a more aggressive exedy and both worked fine for me.
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Nov 15, 2015 07:46
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On my 02, I got an exedy oem replacement at 91k, has 171k on it now. I have a slight bit of chatter when it is cold outside on startup (below 60F) but the clutch still works great.
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Nov 15, 2015 11:09
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Well, the winter tires are on. I hope to God I never have to drive through conditions that would require the chains, which apparently have the ability to turn spontaneously into steel Gordian knots.
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Nov 15, 2015 19:17
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what chains did you get? i might need a set heading up to the pecos.
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Nov 16, 2015 05:25
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mudstone posted:what chains did you get? i might need a set heading up to the pecos. Should be these. Intentional overkill because I can't not get into the hospital if needed, but are they ever a bitch if tangled, and that's in fifty-degree weather without gloves on. Part of me wants to just stick them on my all seasons and flop the tires if we get weather where we'd need them, but the odds of needing them for the full trip are pretty low and I don't want to know what the ice breaker bar would do to pavement.
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Nov 16, 2015 15:22
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Should be these. Intentional overkill because I can't not get into the hospital if needed, but are they ever a bitch if tangled, and that's in fifty-degree weather without gloves on. Part of me wants to just stick them on my all seasons and flop the tires if we get weather where we'd need them, but the odds of needing them for the full trip are pretty low and I don't want to know what the ice breaker bar would do to pavement. They destroy our already poor road system.
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Nov 16, 2015 17:18
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:They destroy our already poor road system. Well, yeah. Hence not putting them on the all seasons for a quick swap since I doubt the entire 26 miles of pavement to work and back would be covered sufficiently by ice and pack snow. Same reason I don't stud the Generals -- too hard on our roads compared to the relatively few times I actually need the ice traction.
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Nov 16, 2015 18:20
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did you get 2 sets? for the awd? The only point i would need them is when we go up skiing/snowshoeing.
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Nov 16, 2015 19:35
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Just on the front. It's in the manual. If you are on an actual road in town or a highway, chances are you aren't going to need chains ever, assuming you have snow tires. The only time I would consider them is on narrow, not really maintained forest roads up in the mountains. They get steep and slippery and if you go off you might end up in a ravine. Plus you're only supposed to drive like 30mph tops with them. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 19:42
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jamal posted:
The best is watching people fly around at 60 with them on in the PNW. I can only imagine the NVH being insane at that speed.
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Nov 16, 2015 19:56
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ya we would need them headed up pecos in the Santa Fe National forest... gets up to 12,000 ft and it's basically a forest road. Not maintained at all in winter and there are big yellow signs with lights that flash for chains req'd
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Nov 16, 2015 20:06
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Ordered my blizzaks today. I've never gotten winter tires before but I'm driving a 80+ miles in a canyon/ mountainous area now and it feels like a good idea vs a set of all-seasons. How does everyone do winter tires regarding dedicated wheels for the winter tires and the tire-pressure monitoring system?
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Nov 16, 2015 23:15
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We have separate sets of winter and summer wheels for my wife's wrx and my sti. We ignore the TPMS light half the year. Around here it costs $60-70 to remount and balance for tire changes, so the wheels pay for themselves after a few years and its quicker for me to just change the wheels over in my garage.
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Nov 16, 2015 23:26
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I have a 2007 Legacy. It doesn't like to start when it rains, but starts right up when it's dry out. Any ideas?
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Nov 18, 2015 00:04
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My old minivan had that issue when the ignition coil was old, and also when the ignition wires got old at sorta dry-rotted and it behaved similarly. On a dark, damp night I actually saw arcing with crank.
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Nov 18, 2015 14:12
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tetrapyloctomy posted:My old minivan had that issue when the ignition coil was old, and also when the ignition wires got old at sorta dry-rotted and it behaved similarly. On a dark, damp night I actually saw arcing with crank. I'll give that a shot. Annoying part is I think it will be hard to duplicate the conditions. Just have to fix it up and wait till it rains, I guess.
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Nov 18, 2015 15:44
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I think I have a nice air bubble in my crossover tube. The temperature gauge is pegged at the bottom for like 5 minutes into my drive. I'm sure its not doing wonders for my fuel economy, as most of my trips are in the 5-7 mile range mutiple times a day with lots of cooldown time now rather than the 20 plus twice a day they used to be. Does this put me in any danger for fuel washdown or anything bad, or should I jump on this full force? Edit- 99 Forester Edit Deuce - Why would I get a random bubble in there? That seems... unlikely. Cripes. Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 17:02
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Txiuct posted:Ordered my blizzaks today. I've never gotten winter tires before but I'm driving a 80+ miles in a canyon/ mountainous area now and it feels like a good idea vs a set of all-seasons. How does everyone do winter tires regarding dedicated wheels for the winter tires and the tire-pressure monitoring system? Get whatever wheels you want and ignore the light if it comes on because those stupid things break all the time anyway.
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Nov 18, 2015 17:23
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I just stripped a lug nut on my 2011 WRX. Is there a good site online that will ship me 20 brand new OEM lug nuts? Driving to the dealer (or anywhere) is probably out of the question at this point. I'd also be OK with aftermarket lugs as long as they're comparable to OEM.
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Nov 19, 2015 01:24
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Amazon resells McGard lugnuts so you could probably swing that.
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Nov 19, 2015 02:06
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Did you strip the lug nut or the wheel stud?
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Nov 19, 2015 02:13
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Was a fun drive out in the ice and snow. Winnipeg just got hit with a nice beginning to winter, snow plus 50km/hr winds, gusting up to 90km/hr. Roads are crazy as drivers forgot all winter driving skills as usual. The ws80's on the forester are pretty great. I think the lockup on the center diff is pretty weak though, felt like a fwd with a tiny bit extra push from the back. Anyone have experience driving an old auto subie in slippery conditions? I thought the electronic center diff would lock up more when the front is slipping. Tried giving it throttle on an icy patch and couldn't get the rear to break loose. Not sure if this is normal behaviour or 300k km on the trans has worn the center diff out. I guess it's good that it's not binding at least. E: If the weather isn't going to be terrible next week, or I can sneak into a buddies warmed garage, I think I'll do the Diff lock mod (Switch that cuts power to the center diff and has a dummy load for the TCM to be happy) Should give me control for when I want to mess around on slippery roads. Got to think of a good place to put the switch and indicator though. Don't want to accidentally run around in summer with the diff locked on dry pavement. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 15:34
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jamal posted:Did you strip the lug nut or the wheel stud? They're both stripped unfortunately. Seems impossible to find OEM lugs online, so I'll probably get that McGard set off Amazon.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:13
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Ho... How did you strip all of them? Or is it just one and you're changing all of them for the hell of it? Should be obvious but just in case, change the stud before you put new lug nuts on.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:18
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Yup, I replaced the stud. The lugs are pretty corroded so I'd rather replace them all before it happens again on a different stud.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:25
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Replaced the ignition coil and spark plug wires, charged up the batter, and it started right up. Of course the weather is nice and dry today, so I don't know if it'll re-occur when it rains, but we'll see.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:36
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blargle posted:They're both stripped unfortunately. Seems impossible to find OEM lugs online, so I'll probably get that McGard set off Amazon. There's nothing special about the oem lugs, but if you wanted them your best option would be a place like subarugenuineparts or another subaru parts dealer. Or you can get something like this: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/kic-41885b-muteki-lug-nuts-12x1-25-closed-end-black They also come in purple and chrome, and that site has a good selection of other lug nuts, and I can get most things there at a slight discount. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 19:29
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Anyone have any experience with the EyeSight system in the fifth gen Legacy?
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Nov 19, 2015 19:38
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Meydey posted:So I have a friend at work with an 05 Impreza 2.5RS 4 door auto. He just found out the headgaskets are in the weeping stage need to be replaced. Was quoted at the dealer for $1200 just for the gaskets but he wants out of it now. Looks like I will be buying this after all. We settled on $3600 with the stereo included. Debating now on pulling the block vs in-car hg replacement. How hard is it to pull an EJ254(?) from the auto transmission? I have never pulled an engine before but doing the work in my garage (1-car) vs a driveway job is very tempting. Plus I could do the rear main seal/oil baffle. Would probably get a hoist of Craigslist, then resell. Is an engine mount needed or can I do the work on the floor?
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Nov 19, 2015 21:03
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Meydey posted:Looks like I will be buying this after all. We settled on $3600 with the stereo included. Check out my project thread for subaru motor shenanigans. Engine stand makes things soooooooooo much easier to work on. You spin the thing around to get it oriented how you like, makes changing HG really easy. You can get away with doing it without a stand by supporting the motor from underneath with 2x4's and doing one side at a time. There's lots of guides online for how this procedure should be done so you've got lots of resources to figure it out. That said it's not really that difficult once you know what you're doing.
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Nov 19, 2015 21:20
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I like to think I am able to do the work. Just take every time estimate and multiple by 5. I have heard it was harder to line up the transmission on an auto though when reinstalling it..
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Nov 19, 2015 21:47
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