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If you have to use target at least use the coupons. 10% off for using the wish list all, 15% off for making a college wish list (pick a local college and say start date is tomorrow). Also $5 off 50 purchase automatically. All stack.
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Nov 13, 2015 08:48
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Thanks everyone!
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Nov 13, 2015 11:22
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Hey all, I'm helping my brother setup networking for a small restaurant (see crappy diagram) and I'm seeking advice on what devices to purchase as well as any tips/suggestions. He recently upgraded to cable service (50 down, 8 up) from dial-up.  The cable coax comes in at the closet. There is a brick wall (red) between the kitchen and dining area (Front) and metal panels halfway up the wall around the kitchen. There's a PC in the office, and a point of sale (POS) terminal and credit card machine (CC) in the kitchen. He doesn't want to connect the credit card machine through the POS. The wifi network is mostly for him and (I suppose) staff. On rare occasion, he will host lunch meetings in the dining area and wants to be able to provide wifi to attendees. It seems all the cool kids are using 802.11ac? Should I favor another flavor? I would like to keep the wifi network separate from the wired. I live 6 hours away so reliability and somewhat simple changes are preferred. I assume I can remote in through the PC to make router changes when necessary (assuming it's sufficiently working). I'd prefer the physical security of having the router in the closet, but I don't know how reasonable it is to separate antennas and routers, much less with newer 802.11 iterations. Edit: words Edit #2: spelling dbcooper fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Nov 14, 2015 |
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Nov 13, 2015 16:27
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You'll most definitely want to keep the wifi traffic separate from the POS and credit processing machines. You do this by using equipment that supports VLANs. An EdgeRouter Lite as the router then something like a Netgear managed switch to plug all your equipment into, and a Unifi Access Point AC-Lite or Pro handling wireless. That setup will run him about $265 - $325. Then just keep the Guest wifi to its own VLAN, CC/POS to another, and possibly the Office machine to its own as well (unless it's connected to the POS via software). If you can, absolutely keep the networking gear locked in the closet (except the AP, that can be mounted somewhere out of reach on the wall or ceiling) and just run some cat5e/6 to wherever it's needed. From your diagram, four lines is easy enough to run and conceal wherever.
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Nov 14, 2015 02:23
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Cross posted from the Raspberry Pi thread. I set up an Raspberry Pi 2 in my garage to act as a thin client for RDP to a computer I keep in my basement. The RP2 is connected via ethernet. The RP2 is connected directly to one of the ethernet ports on my router, which is also in the garage. The RP2 can connect to the internet with no problem. I can ping the router without issue. My network is set up kind of like what is shown in this diagram (black is wired, blue is wifi):  The primary router runs dd-wrt and the access points are cheap routers running OpenWRT, configured to run as access points. The primary router assigns pre-set IP addresses for every device on the network via DHCP (I know what machine has what IP). When configured exactly as shown, I can make connections (ping, ssh, etc) between the laptop and the RP2. The RP2 can connect to the laptop, the router, and the internet, but CANNOT connect to any other device on my network. If I use the wifi on my laptop to connect to a different AP, I can't connect it to the RP2. None of the other devices on the network have this problem. I have an Odroid C1, a FireTV stick, a couple of smartphones, a couple of Nooks, a Linux server, and a Windows PC in the basement. All of them can talk to each other and to the outside world without issue, even with multiple "layers" of switches/access points in between them. I run a web server on the Odroid. My router (which has DDNS set up) is set up with port forwarding. I can't connect to the Odroid from the RP2 directly (ie http://192.168.1.x) , but I can if I refer to the Odroid as http://blahblah.dynamicdnsprovider.com. WTF is going on here? Why is the RP2 the only device on the network that can't communicate properly with the other devices on the same subnet? I have another RP2 (connected via wifi), and it can speak directly to any other device on the network, regardless of switches and APs in between.
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Nov 14, 2015 04:46
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Rukus posted:... That setup will run him about $265 - $325. Thank you. Price sounds good. So it will end up looking something like this?  Where the purple, blue and green lines/cables represent different VLANs. The POS and credit card machine are not connected to the office PC via software and if that changes in the future [I assume] I can modify the network as necessary. Hopefully he hasn't run the cabling yet and I can perform the equipment install this Thanksgiving! 
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Nov 14, 2015 07:58
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sellouts posted:If you have to use target at least use the coupons. 10% off for using the wish list all, 15% off for making a college wish list (pick a local college and say start date is tomorrow). Also $5 off 50 purchase automatically. All stack. Plus 5% if you have a Red Card, 5% if you fill 5 prescriptions there, and at least for a while they had a 30% in the Cartwheel app on Netgear.
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Nov 14, 2015 08:03
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dbcooper posted:Thank you. Price sounds good. That's pretty much it, and VLANs make it really simple to change network segmentation. Another thing you could look into is a UPS for the networking gear in case there are any power blips. All the gear together wouldn't use more than 30-40 watts at most, so even a lower-wattage unit like this APC would keep the gear up for around 90 minutes. This would stop any problems caused by the equipment suddenly losing power and acting abnormally when they come back online.
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Nov 14, 2015 14:17
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Rukus posted:That's pretty much it, and VLANs make it really simple to change network segmentation. Another thing you could look into is a UPS for the networking gear in case there are any power blips. All the gear together wouldn't use more than 30-40 watts at most, so even a lower-wattage unit like this APC would keep the gear up for around 90 minutes. This would stop any problems caused by the equipment suddenly losing power and acting abnormally when they come back online. Good idea. Work will get busier soon and I need to minimize familial "Hey, ______ isn't working" phone calls. Any recommendations on PoE for the Unifi WAP or just use the DC adapter (I assume it comes w/ one)? It appears the Pro version (UAP-AC-PRO) comes w/ a PoE adapter? Edit: Any recommendations on a cheap Ethernet line tester as well? dbcooper fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Nov 14, 2015 |
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Nov 14, 2015 16:28
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It comes with a Poe injector.
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Nov 14, 2015 19:14
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Yeah, the Unifi AP's come with PoE injectors already. No need to get a PoE capable switch.
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Nov 14, 2015 20:36
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What's the deal with the edgerouter? It has the POE input and a POE output. Doesn't seem practical for most home uses. Seems like you would just used the attached DC adapters for both your AP and the router. What is the practical use of a router with just one POE output?
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Nov 14, 2015 21:37
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Jago posted:What's the deal with the edgerouter? It has the POE input and a POE output. Doesn't seem practical for most home uses. Seems like you would just used the attached DC adapters for both your AP and the router. What is the practical use of a router with just one POE output? Seems like it would actually be perfect for a home that just needs one PoE capable security camera or AP?
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Nov 14, 2015 21:57
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Yeah its so you can run the router and an AP from the same single cable.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:10
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I get that, but it seems like you'll have the router near a power outlet in the first place and you can interpose the bundled POE injector for your AP in the same room.code:Certainly, the full POE injected setup is more elegant. You still need to BUY another injector for the edge router right? Or does the one for the AP supply enough juice for both. In that case It makes sense, if not you're spending more money.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:22
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Jago posted:I get that, but it seems like you'll have the router near a power outlet in the first place and you can interpose the bundled POE injector for your AP in the same room. Yeah the one Injector will power both the AP and the Router at the same time. The idea is to give flexibility in where the router goes.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:27
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dbcooper posted:Edit: Any recommendations on a cheap Ethernet line tester as well? I use a cheap Monoprice tester I got years ago that only checks for continuity and crossed wires (similar to this) and has worked well enough for basic use. That toner would be handy if you ever have to find a particular cable, though.
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Nov 14, 2015 23:59
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redeyes posted:Yeah the one Injector will power both the AP and the Router at the same time. The idea is to give flexibility in where the router goes. Stranger on the internet reported that after 4-5 wireless devices, the UAP-AC-Lite and the ERX starts dropping connections due to lack of power (using the APs injector to power both). Can't test yet because the drat AP is backordered.
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Nov 15, 2015 03:30
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Can anybody recommend a 24+ port switch? I've been using a Dell PowerConnect 2824 and I think it's finally given up. It's going to be used in my home network, but I want something managed that can be rackmounted. I've never needed power over ethernet, but it seems that could be interesting so I'd love to get that built-in unless it's incredibly more expensive. (i.e. I can add modules to power raspberry pi's over ethernet and if I ever add home security cameras, etc) Anybody have any suggestions? I'd probably be most comfortable using Cisco (or other "name-brand" or "high-end" stuff)
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Nov 15, 2015 04:10
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Following the Ubiquiti trend, they have a PoE 24 port managed, rackable switch for $400. https://store.ubnt.com/feature-products/unifiswitch-24-250w.html
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Nov 15, 2015 04:13
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Or their Edgeswitch line (I think it runs different firmware/GUI from the Unifi ones): PoE Capable, Non-PoE.
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Nov 15, 2015 04:21
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Interesting! Thanks for the suggestions! Any idea how they compare to the Cisco SG200-26P? ($359 at NewEgg; on sale from $599) I know the Cisco only has PoE on 12 ports which is plenty for my setup, but seems worse than the Ubiquity gear? (EDIT: And the Cisco only does 100W max PoE I think)
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Nov 15, 2015 04:24
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I use a TP-Link TL-SG2424 ~$170. Really works well for me. No POE though.
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Nov 15, 2015 04:41
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Thanks. I think since I'm going to invest a decent amount of money and for the price difference, I might go for PoE to future-proof myself. Also, the more I read it seems like the Ubiquity UniFi switches require a controller (software?) running, so I think I'd rather the web-interface configuration of the EdgeSwitch. However, I've also read about the upcoming UAP-AC-PRO that also requires the controller? I'm still interested in opinions on the Cisco versus these switches though...
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Nov 15, 2015 04:55
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Vinlaen posted:Thanks. I think since I'm going to invest a decent amount of money and for the price difference, I might go for PoE to future-proof myself. I know for the AP's, the controller software does NOT need to be running for the vast majority of configurations to work. You do need to leave the controller software running for a few things, though. One example is if you have a guest network that has a captive portal page, you need to have some sort of box running the controller software to handle the landing page.
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Nov 15, 2015 05:02
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Ubiquiti made a little device that plugs into an ethernet port that runs the controller software: https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-cloud-key/. Handy if you don't have an always-on server to host it.
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Nov 15, 2015 07:10
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They've got a cloud key that runs off of POE for like 90 dollars or something if you don't have a small server running 24/7. For the older APs I never had the controller running and it was fine.
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Nov 15, 2015 07:13
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The cloud key is nice, but a bit pricey for what it is. Assuming you have some Linux experience, you can set up a raspberry pi that costs about half as much and works just as well.
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Nov 15, 2015 17:23
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My inlaws will be taking possession of their new build home next month. It was wired with Cat5 (or maybe 6?) in each room, with a receptacle at every coax cable/telephone plate in anticipation of future streaming appliances. However, the ends of the 8 or 10 cables aren't terminated in the utility room so there is just a rats-nest bundle of cables with no RJ45 ends on them. Since I was the guy that recommended they get every room hard wired with network cable, I'm also going to be drafted to set up their small home network. A few simple questions (I think!) For terminating their ends, am I OK just getting a basic kit like THIS for making the ends and testing the cables to make sure they work? I've never done anything like that before but I am reasonably mechanically competent. They will probably be signing up to a main-stream ISP/TV provider who will certainly be providing a thoroughly mediocre router for their service. Since these are senior citizens and not hardcore users, am I OK with just getting a basic network switch like THIS ,and then plugging it into a network port in their forthcoming ISP supplied router? I have a decent small ISP personally who is fine with bridging their modem to a better router, but the incumbents (of which they will certainly use) are not so I want to keep it as basic and straight forward as possible. Thanks!
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Nov 15, 2015 17:43
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slidebite posted:My inlaws will be taking possession of their new build home next month. It was wired with Cat5 (or maybe 6?) in each room, with a receptacle at every coax cable/telephone plate in anticipation of future streaming appliances. However, the ends of the 8 or 10 cables aren't terminated in the utility room so there is just a rats-nest bundle of cables with no RJ45 ends on them. Since I was the guy that recommended they get every room hard wired with network cable, I'm also going to be drafted to set up their small home network. I prefer this unit for testing cables: http://www.amazon.ca/Ethernet-Network-Phone-Cable-Tester/dp/B00CFFG3P4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1447607127&sr=8-13&keywords=cable+tester This unit is a great crimper: http://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Quality-Network-Crimper-100195/dp/B001TUAWH6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1447607186&sr=8-4&keywords=crimper and a 100 pack of rj45 plugs: http://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-RJ-45-Modular-100-Pack-107245/dp/B005BAP4W8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447607219&sr=8-2&keywords=rj45+plug Those would be far better quality than that all in one package. Go for a gigabit switch: http://www.amazon.ca/TP-LINK-TL-SG1...=gigabit+switch [edit] 16 port here: http://www.amazon.ca/D-Link-DGS-101...gabit+switch+16 redeyes fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Nov 15, 2015 |
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Nov 15, 2015 18:07
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Thanks for the recommendations. That tester and crimper is cheap enough, I might as well just order them. So apart from what you are specifically recommending for switches, what I am doing sounds right? Just plug a switch into their router? Is it difficult to do the ends for someone that hasn't done it before?
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Nov 15, 2015 18:22
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Don't crimp the ends, get a small patch panel.
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Nov 15, 2015 18:30
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Cat5 is fiddly, but take your time and it will be fine. Although inexpensive tools will usually get the job done, a decent set of telecom scissors (IDK what the real name is  ) and a nice ratcheting crimper make a world of difference. Might be beyond what you want to spend though, especially with this being the only project.
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Nov 15, 2015 18:30
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slidebite posted:For terminating their ends, am I OK just getting a basic kit like THIS for making the ends and testing the cables to make sure they work? I've never done anything like that before but I am reasonably mechanically competent. For reference, I used this guy in my wiring cabinet recently and am quite happy with it. Also you're gonna want to open up one of those wall plates and double check which standard they used (568A vs. 568B) to install stuff at the other end. All of those is pretty straightforward and just comes down to matching colors, so don't feel intimidated. Star War Sex Parrot fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Nov 15, 2015 |
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Nov 15, 2015 18:31
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I see, I never thought of a patch panel before. I don't think I want to build a cabinet or anything, I'm planing just hanging the switch and router on header panel on the wall. As I am a network novice, can you tell me what the advantage is of a panel over crimping ends?
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Nov 15, 2015 18:35
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slidebite posted:I see, I never thought of a patch panel before. I don't think I want to build a cabinet or anything, I'm planing just hanging the switch and router on header panel on the wall. Keeps everything clean, you can Velcro all your runs going into the patch panel, then use short patches to connect to your switches. Seriously, its worth the tiny extra cost. They make patch panels that mount directly to the wall as well, if you don't get a network cabinet.
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Nov 15, 2015 19:01
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slidebite posted:I see, I never thought of a patch panel before. I don't think I want to build a cabinet or anything, I'm planing just hanging the switch and router on header panel on the wall. Crimping will work itself loose over time with handling. If you break the cable by handling it, you'll have to run a whole new cable. If you terminate cable runs into a patch panel, then you never touch the original cables again, and you plug cheap patch cables into it. Who cares if you break a patch cable?
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Nov 15, 2015 19:09
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How easy/hard is it to take unterminated ends and put them into a patch panel?
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Nov 15, 2015 19:42
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Ynglaur posted:How easy/hard is it to take unterminated ends and put them into a patch panel? It's pretty easy, you just take the colored wires and punch them down into their appropriate holes (you may need a 110 punchdown tool, I have one on my multitool but there are cheapo plastic ones available, they used to come with every keystone jack until companies decided that 10c of plastic was too expensive to give away for free). You need to check how the other ends were wired to see if they used A or B wiring so you know which wires to put where. If the previous owner or whoever hosed up the other ends by wiring them all in order or something then you redo those, too. Not my video but this guy goes into great detail: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgvmM6R8rQc he actually starts putting the conductors in around 4 minutes in, but if you've never done it before just watch the whole thing.
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Nov 15, 2015 20:50
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So... I'm still looking at a new 24+ port switch and so far I'm considering the UniFi Switch, UniFi EdgeSwitch, and Cisco SG200. However, I just noticed the MikroTik - CRS125-24G-1S-RM. It's a 24-port switch with a built-in MicroTik router (running RouterOS which I've heard good things about). Right now I'm running a dedicated SuperMicro X7SPA pfSense box, but I do like the idea of getting rid of that and having just one router/switch. Can the UniFi work similarly? If not, has anybody got any opinion on the MicroTik? Seeing as how it's half the price of the UniFi Switch, I'm guessing it's nowhere near as good in quality or capability?
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Nov 16, 2015 03:58
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