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I believe that was me, http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334&userid=12010&perpage=40&pagenumber=5#post440366027 To be honest I also bought a bunch of plastic ones that lets you open the drawer a little and then you have to push in this tab to open it the rest of the way, kinda like those more as I don't need to find the magnetic key to open the drawer. We have both in use in our kitchen.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:58
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Yep, that's the one. Thanks My sister in law has an old china cabinet in the dining room, and a toddler. She wants art supplies, but doesn't seem down with me just putting in a skeleton key cabinet lock. Neato magnetic slider seems like a cool way to go.
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Nov 15, 2015 00:33
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No problem, hope it works out. I refinished my workbench top, used shellac, then applied an oil/wax combo too for good measure and buffed it, no glue should stick to this one, also installed a woodworking vise, it has a built in bench dog so I guess I'll add dog holes now. 
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Nov 15, 2015 09:04
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I like it, round or square dog holes? Will you be adding a shelf?
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Nov 15, 2015 15:52
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Probably round ones for simplicity's sake. Not sure what you mean by a shelf, on the bottom? If so there i want to build a cabinet with drawers you can open on both sides of the bench. Also made something on my lathe for the first time 
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Nov 15, 2015 19:43
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I was thinking shelf on the bottom, cabinet with drawers is even better. What sort of wood did you use for the chisel handle?
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Nov 15, 2015 19:59
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It's some rowan wood I picked out of the firewood pile at my parents summer cottage. It's partially decomposed, so it has some interesting grain. Maybe next week I'll goto korsholm trätjänst and pick up a batch of oak offcuts.
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Nov 15, 2015 20:29
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This is interesting, never even considered the possibility https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5UOAnyPl0I
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Nov 16, 2015 14:33
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bimmian posted:This is interesting, never even considered the possibility  I don't know why something like this had never occurred to me before. This would really change my workshop options -- I suddenly feel like I have all the justification I need for a nice drill press now. e: Now someone just needs to show me how to turn a drill press into a lathe 
Hubis fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 15:07
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Hubis posted:
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Nov 16, 2015 15:20
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bimmian posted:This is interesting, never even considered the possibility Color me dubious.
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Nov 16, 2015 15:30
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Mr. Mambold posted:Color me dubious. What would be the main limits here? Obviously it would be a pain for a large number of boards, or boards wider than a couple of inches (although neither seem like a big obstacle for luthier work in particular). It also seems like it would be untenable for long boards, or anything with a noticeable bow/twist. I guess there's also a limit to how much you can remove in a pass, so it would only be suitable for really light duty. Since it's doing a rotating cut like that, could tear-out/swirl marks be a problem? welp
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Nov 16, 2015 15:39
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Hubis posted:What would be the main limits here? Obviously it would be a pain for a large number of boards, or boards wider than a couple of inches (although neither seem like a big obstacle for luthier work in particular). It also seems like it would be untenable for long boards, or anything with a noticeable bow/twist. I guess there's also a limit to how much you can remove in a pass, so it would only be suitable for really light duty. Since it's doing a rotating cut like that, could tear-out/swirl marks be a problem? I'd think all the above. Plus, I'm pretty sure a drill press doesn't get anywhere near the rotation speed that a joiner does. I'd be a bit more impressed if the teeth on that thing were carbide. It looks like a toy to me. Stew-Mac specialize in luthier accessories that I'm aware of- if that's all you did, it might be fine.
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Nov 16, 2015 15:53
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Went and picked up some wood today, walnut, oak, ash and arctic silver birch:
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Nov 16, 2015 17:26
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His Divine Shadow posted:Also made something on my lathe for the first time When I got a lathe the first thing I did was make handles for everything. I think every woodworker should have a small lathe even if just for handles and knobs.
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Nov 16, 2015 19:09
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Yeah it's very useful, used it to restore a knob for a stanley #5 as well, turned out real well with shellac, which I only started using a few days ago, but I love it as a finish. I have a buncha plastic handled and broken handled old chisels I will be replacing as well. I dunno if I overpaid or not for th wood above me, 40 euros for it all. But now I have something besides construction lumber. e: the one with the big knot in it I paid less for, 1 euro. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 19:17
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wormil posted:When I got a lathe the first thing I did was make handles for everything. Agreed - it is so stinking handy to be able to turn out a handle for basically anything. I like it for making handles to my blacksmithed stuff, since I don't particularly like holding the metal end- I think wood is much more comfortable due to being warmer and softer while still plenty strong.
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Nov 16, 2015 20:32
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So a coworker who refinishes tools wants to give me his powermatic artisan table saw from the 80s. Any feelings or concerns? My husband is all concerned about the lack of riving knife but I don't see it as a big deal.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:41
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I have a 19-something-ies old as gently caress table saw with no safety features and I do fine. Count fingers before you cut, keep the blade sharp and the table clean, and don't be stupid.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:54
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Tigntink posted:So a coworker who refinishes tools wants to give me his powermatic artisan table saw from the 80s. Any feelings or concerns? My husband is all concerned about the lack of riving knife but I don't see it as a big deal. Your husband is absolutely right. Tell your coworker to give me, Mr. Mambold, the saw. I'm from that era and used to using tools like that, so it's not a problem. Give you a powermatic table saw? GIVE? Those saws, hell anything powermatic back then, were the bees knees. That saw will outlive us both. Riving knife feh. It's not a big deal. Really. Be grateful, that is awesome.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:56
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Buy a grr-ripper. Awesome table saw accessory.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:57
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If you are going to use it, which you should, or not- take the saw.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:58
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Give me an address, I'll come pick it up.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:59
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Tigntink posted:So a coworker who refinishes tools wants to give me his powermatic artisan table saw from the 80s. Any feelings or concerns? My husband is all concerned about the lack of riving knife but I don't see it as a big deal. https://www.tru.ca/hsafety/workinglearningsafely/work/tablesaw.html Riving knives/splitters are there to prevent wood that you shouldn't have been cutting in the first place from closing up behind the blade and causing a kick back but they will not prevent all or even the most common injuries. Best to avoid ripping green wood but the construction industry doesn't have that luxury and more and more people nowadays are self taught so riving knives are a good feature. But if You avoid ripping green wood and follow the guidelines in the link above then you'll be reasonably safe. There is inherent risk using any table saw and you cannot control every variable but you can control the position of your body. If things go wrong and you are out of the way then injury can be minimized or avoided.
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Nov 17, 2015 04:02
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Hey now, i'm extremely pro this saw. We are finally finishing out our crawl space to be a workshop. HANDS OFF. MINE. (I was looking at the entry level grizzly before this so powermatics weren't even on my radar) I learned proper table saw safety in college and i'm very aware and careful. I'm wicked excited because the guy even made a routerlift and a custom fence! Basically it's a greybeard who is graduating up to like the 4,000 powermatic and is excited for a young person like me to be into the working of the wood. Here's his description: quote:Fence - http://vsctools.com/shop/product-category/table-saw-fence/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaEb2aKwUtM silicone thrills fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Nov 17, 2015 |
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Nov 17, 2015 04:10
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Tigntink posted:So a coworker who refinishes tools wants to give me his powermatic artisan table saw from the 80s. Any feelings or concerns? My husband is all concerned about the lack of riving knife but I don't see it as a big deal. I had that saw. It's pretty nice. Just add a microjig.
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Nov 17, 2015 04:15
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Hubis posted:What would be the main limits here? The main problem that I can see with that planer is that most drill presses fit the chuck via a friction taper. Tapers are not good with axial load so you could end up with the chuck taper backing out. I've seen it happen when people mount sanding/grinding drums in a drill press. Would work great in a cheap milling machine though. Which isn't surprising as it's basically just a wood version of a fly cutter or face mill which are used to surface metals. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Nov 17, 2015 |
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Nov 17, 2015 15:11
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Anyone here have experience making gun stocks? I am making one for a shotgun for a friend. The stock itself will not be a problem. Where I am stuck is making the front grip. I need to make a long tapered hole and I have no clue.
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Nov 19, 2015 14:31
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Off centre turning on a lathe with a drill bit? Not too sure if it would work. How long does it need to be? http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=54864&cat=1,180,42240,53317,54864 NPR Journalizard fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 14:53
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Frogmanv2 posted:Off centre turning on a lathe with a drill bit? Not too sure if it would work. It tapers from 1 1/8" to 1" over about a 9" run. I drilled a 1 1/8" hole all the way through, not taking into account the taper. Here is my gently caress up: https://www.instagram.com/p/-P8Hv5FSFy
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Nov 19, 2015 15:30
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So you don't actually need a hole, you need a trench. Time to get out your chisels and gouges! 
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Nov 19, 2015 15:32
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mds2 posted:It tapers from 1 1/8" to 1" over about a 9" run. Rounded router bit the diameter of the smallest end to hog out most of it, then either sand it down, or maybe get a dremel.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:41
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Someone else suggested drilling the 1" hole, then wrap the barrel in sandpaper and sand it to fit. That does not sound like fun at all. Additional to this problem, while I was making the new grip, my dog grabbed the original off my bench without me noticing and chewed it to oblivion.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:58
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Dogs knows what's up.
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Nov 19, 2015 16:02
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Got a spare electric motor around? Rig up some automatic sanding device.
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Nov 19, 2015 16:03
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Frogmanv2 posted:Rounded router bit the diameter of the smallest end to hog out most of it, then either sand it down, or maybe get a dremel. This, but then use a tapered shim hotglued to each side to hog the rest. The bit will have to be a bigass fluting bit, so that may be offputting. e. *looks left, looks right, picks up low-hanging fruit* mds2 posted:
sounds like your benchdog got loose
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Nov 19, 2015 16:29
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While not as elegant a solution, maybe it would be easier to use 2 pieces of wood and cut a tapered half channel in each. You could offset the wood on an angle to get the taper you need in the corner of 2 pieces, then glue them together. It won't look as nice but if you start with a larger piece of stock and split it beforehand you could hide the seam a bit better. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 16:44
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I do have a Shapeoko 2 cnc machine. I could try to mill the groove with that, but I am not real good at CNC poo poo yet. Destroyed grip: https://www.instagram.com/p/-P9XJbFSHv/
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Nov 19, 2015 17:21
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I've seen someone tackle that problem by using a metalworking lathe and setting the taper that way. Of course this does require access to a metalworking lathe. You could cut most of the hole on the lathe, then set up a tilted router sled to add the taper? It would require some cleanup, but less of it.
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Nov 19, 2015 17:24
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Using your lathe, create a sanding drum that matches the taper. Wrap in sandpaper and leave it mounted to the lathe. Drill out at smallest diameter and sand to an exact fit.
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Nov 19, 2015 18:13
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